The "scam" on the low-interest rates, lies in the fine print. If you miss a payment or take longer than the loan term to pay it off, then you will get hit for all the (secret) interest for the full term of the loan.

One more. Teaching my son a lesson about scams when he was 5 years old. Told him I would bet him $5 that I could jump higher then a house. He was excited about getting the $5. He thought no way. So we put our jackets on and go outside and I jump about a foot high. I said see I told you so. He said you didn't jump higher then the house. Yes I did,. Did you see the house jump? He was pretty mad at me, but he never forgot it.

That turning white board represents revolving credit.

If you got the Explorer on the A plan and 0% financing, I think you’ve had your cake and ate it too.

Let me take a stab at the “negative” interest rate. I bought a car, qualified for 0.0%. As I was signing my wife called, told me to put as much as I could on my Discover card. Discover had a program that month where we got a bit more of cash back. I put 10K on the card, financed the rest. Paid off the card before the interest free time was up and made cash back on it.

If you have cash to buy a car outright, the average (non-A-Plan and non-0% qualifier) buyer shouldn't tell the dealer this because it does substantially reduce your negotiation position. A lot of money is made from the loans, so dealers are willing to negotiate pricing and other things when they think they'll make more back in the long run on the loan. What to do instead (again, if 0% financing isn't available to you) is to negotiate the price and perks, with reasonable loan terms (including making sure you don't have an early payment penalty). Make your required down payment and drive your car off the lot. Pay off the car loan at the first payment. You will have nothing (or almost nothing for loans with daily accrual) in interest, and your best possible price.

"I can't take 6 apples from you if you only have 5." - Shh...don't tell the IRS that!!

The 0% financing is a dealer's lure, not a scam on the level of auto sales, but it is an opportunity to entice you into a price with less or even no discount. HOWEVER, 0% interest rates is completely a scam that is raping and pillaging the broad population at large. While we are all immersed in this awful cesspool of governmental finance and monetary "policy", it would be a huge waste to fail to take advantage of the 0% financing and instead pay cash for something with a price that is completely INFLATED precisely BECAUSE of the 0% rates.

The best deal is to wait 2 or 3 years and let someone else take the huge initial depreciation, then buy the barely used car with cash.

Sit down and run the numbers. Mileage will vary. Sometimes it's better with interest free loan sometimes it's better with rebates. But you HAVE to run the numbers yourself.

back in 2002 went to a chevy dealer to buy a new silverado p u truck went in in old clothes walked the lot for about 15 min (already knew the truck i wanted) went inside found a salesman negotiated the price then the salesman asked if i wanted 5000 dollars off or 0 percent interest i said i wanted the 5000 off so we got the final price he thought he was going to get a high interest rate he asked how much i was going to put down i said i was going to give him a check for the full amount ( i was saving for about 4 years to get a new truck ) no intrest and 5000 off

Easiest way to understand this is that on average the value of the US dollar decreases between two and 4% per year. Any interest rate beneath that and you are literally paying less for the vehicle because by the time you pay for it that payment you make is worth less than it was when you made the contract. This works in the inverse when employers give you a one or 2% raise, it does not even keep up with the consumer price index.

If someone in Australia owes more than his car is worth is he “right side up” ?

Negative interest rates exist for bank deposit accounts in several European countries already. You give them £100 at the start of the year, and you get back £99 at the end. Even the Bank of England have told UK banks to prepared for them in the UK.

Back in the 80's, car dealers were desperate to sell cars and given interest rates were still over 10%, they would create all sorts of crazy finance schemes to sell cars. This was also when the rule of 78's and add on interest was still legal in California. I was in college and our Finance professor, who was a brilliant man and CFO of a major bank told us how he went to buy a car over the weekend. He went in looking like your typical sucker. Until the dealer started throwing numbers at him. He whips out his old HP 12 C financial calculator and started running the numbers down the penny. Then he started giving advice to others buying cars that day. He said the dealership was willing to give him a car to make him leave. Then he paid cash for it. We are all busting up in class and he says "See the fun you can have with a pH.D in finance kids."

When I purchased my vehicle they offered me 0% APR or $5,000 cash back so another words they were charging me $5,000 to finance the vehicle how is that 0% lmao

A negative 5% interest rate is when you lend $100.00 to a relative and after a year say " okay just give me the $95.00 that you have in your wallet right now and we'll call it even ".

It can be a scam if you have a choice between a 0% interest rate or $3000 cash back and a 2.9% interest rate for instance. The question is can you get the same underlying vehicle price at the 0% rate as you could at the higher interest rate.

I was a Finance Manager and in the Auto industry for 20 years..... Who ever said 0% is a scam i would love to sell them a vehicle! Ask him if he would sign at 29.99% interest because that is the most i have ever signed someone at.

Not necessarily related to auto loans, but I have seen furniture stores offering 0% financing, but if you don't pay the loan off on time, you get charged interest for the entire amount.

We came across something similar when we bought our new VW Golf last year. The terms of the 0% financing promotion specifically excluded cars with prices a certain amount below MSRP. The car we wanted had a “special price” on it that disqualified it from 0% financing. The finance guy told us we could either pay $24,000 for it and finance at 1%, or pay $26,000 at 0%. The 1% financing was actually cheaper.

0% is only a scam if the interest is capitalized after a set period of time if you don't pay off the loan before the 0% period ends. Furniture stores love this one. If you buy a mattress at 0% for the first 6 months, at 181 days they can hit you with that 24.99% worth of interest for the previous 6 months. ALWAYS read any finance contract before you sign it.

Never tell the salesman you are going to be paying cash. When you do that, they know they have to make all their money in the showroom instead of making money on you in the business office. If they ask, “will you be financing” you answer, “do you have financing?” They of course will say “yes, would you like to finance with us?” You answer, I’ll look at what you have and consider it. So the sales team considers they don’t have to play it so tight on the front end because they have a second chance to make money off you in the finance office.

If I'm shopping for a car, my answer to questions about how I'll pay or whether I have a trade-in is always, "I haven't decided. For now, I just need to know how much it's going to cost me." In one case I got a price I liked, and the salesman says "So, are you going to finance this." And I said, "No, I'll pay cash unless you've got one of those 0.0% deals." And he says, "Maybe; let me see." And he's gone for a few minutes. He comes back and says, "Your credit score is amazing, We can give you a 0% plan." At this point, I know the exact price I'm paying, to the penny. So I tell him fine, let's do it. So I bought the car, put the exact amount in a bank account and set up automatic payments every month to pay the loan. At the end of three years, the loan was paid off, the total of all payments was the exact price as agreed, and there was like 1800 bucks left in the account. Nice. So yeah, there's no way you can go wrong with an interest-free loan. Well, maybe there is, but you'd have to try like hell to lose money.

0.0% financing is free money. There is no scam unless you are paying more for the vehicle when financing versus if you paid in full.

I can't believe you made a video about this. But people, especially on youtube, are stupid and believe so many things that just aren't so.

Don’t say I’m paying cash for the same reason. Dealerships make as much money from arranging financing then they do from the sale. Check out the video “don’t say I’m paying cash.”

One unstated reality is that you *never* tell the dealer you're paying cash. That's a common misconception. Negotiate the price *first* before discussing ANY financing. If you tell a dealer you're paying cash, they'll factor in the fact they won't make anything on the backend through financing, and that'll raise the floor on their eventual take price. Bottom line: Negotiate the "out-the-door" price *first*, without regard to financing.

If price is same at 4.0% interest and at 0.0% interest how can it be a scam?

On the explorer the 0% financing makes sense. However on some vehicles (I’m using the Fusion for this example) they give you two options, regular financing with $4250 in rebates or 0% financing with $1500 in rebates. So assuming you’re doing both for 60 months and you get 2.9% financing with the larger rebate, you’re saving money by forgoing the 0% financing. It just depends on the vehicle and what incentives the manufacture is providing at a given moment.

What many financing experts agree upon, a 0.00% percent loan from Mom and Dad is the best deal possible. Usually turns in to forgivable debt to keep them from moving back into Mom and Dad's house. Sort of like extortion.

Just to be clear here. Often Manufacturers will include rebates available for purchasing vehicles or 0% you usually can't get both. From that point it's just a matter of figuring out if you save more money with 0% interest or a 1500 dollar rebate or whatever the specific numbers are for your region/credit or situation. It's not a scam.

If someone can’t succinctly explain why something is a scam that they claim is a scam, they don’t really understand the argument they are making.

OK, here's how it could be considered a "scam". Many times you have a choice of a rebate or 0.0% interest, but not both. An example I saw recently would be for the Toyota Avalon, which had a $3000 rebate or 0.0% financing. If you finance $35,000 at 2.99% for 60 months, your total interest is $2725. If you had taken the rebate and financed at that rate/term then you pocketed $275. If you can do a shorter term or get a better rate, then you'd pocket even more. Of course this will not work for anyone with not so great credit scores.

Last time I purchased a new American car, they offered me 0.0% financing OR a a few thousand off deal. But not both. I think it depends on the offer. Some are scummier than others.

Yea, that guy did not know what he was talking about Steve. There are two main reasons for 0.0% financing . 1) Clear out excess inventory without discounting the cars, but by discounting the finance. 2) The major reason, to get people onto the lot as they know most will not qualify for the 0.0% financing, but of course will not tell you that until you have fallen "In Love" with a car.

Often, financing companies have a target for their protfolio’s overall risk. That is, the risk average for their entire book of business. When that average goes askew, they offer these specials to balance it out This is why they have very stringent credit requirements for them.

The only problem is the A Plan is only good if you want a Ford car?

I negotiated the price of the car before even doing a credit app. I got 0%. I don’t feel scammed.

first negotiate the price and then discuss how to pay for the vehicle

The only way an auto manufacturer can offer 0.00% is if they own the finance company. Ford, in this case, sells the car and records a sale. Ford Motor Credit receives monthly payments for the term of the loan much like an annuity. Ford Motor Credit can make ancillary revenue from late payments etc. If Ford did not own Ford Motor Credit and used a bank or a credit union they would not be able to offer 0.00% to their customers nor would the bank or credit union agree to 0.00% terms. The reason for this is the bank has to pay interest on its customer's deposits i.e certificate of deposits, money market accounts, and saving. The bank or credit union could also issue debt i.e bonds which would result in the bank paying market interests on the debt issued. The bonds issued by the bank would carry an interest rate based on the 10-year treasury rate in most cases. The debt issued by the bank/credit union could be lent out at higher interest rates. Banks/credit unions make money on the spread between interest paid on deposits, interest paid on debt and money lent out. If the bank/credit union lent at 0.00% they would have an effective negative interest rate. This would cause the bank/credit union to lose money on every loan issued at 0.00%.

Couldn't you have cut this explanation down to 2 minutes?

By law, the vehicle must have a Munroney sticker that shows the MSRP from the manufacturer, fuel economy etc. The manufacturer's sticker cannot be altered or changed. Additional fees have to be listed separately so you would know they are adding additional fees to the MSRP. It's all in Title 15, Chapter 28, sections 1231-1233. There are federal penalties (fines) associated with removing, altering, or changing the manufacturer's Munroney sticker. So, the guy who thinks the auto dealers can hide fees by changing the MSRP is wrong as it's a federal offense to do that.

Basically you are BOTH right. The Aussie KZfaqr is correct...for Australian conditions and Steve Lehto is correct, for American conditions especially folks buying with an "A-Plan" discount. In New Zealand (and probably Aussie too), Similar examples exist in the Zero percent financing of home appliances (fridges, clothes washer, TVs etc) that are often offered by some businesses to people with poor credit. To a not very financially literate consumer, the offer of zero percent financing on a major home appliance looks sweet indeed. Sometimes the interest free period is just for the first 1 or 2 years of a many years contract. However those businesses have already artificially increased the price of the appliance to much more than normal retail. They then add in a bunch of "fees and charges' which aren't actually interest per se. Common are an "account establishment fee", followed by a "monthly account maintenance fee" plus huge fees if people make their monthly payments late. I think it can be summed up, by just being aware, and if you're being offered a sweet deal on the interest rate, ensure that the business, whatever you're buying, hasn't just loaded you up with extra fees at the other end (think pinstriping, rustproofing, fabric protection, gap insurance etc). cheers

Hundo behind the rear wheel of the Tucker on the right side of the top of the cabinet. 255.

We have had negative interest rates here in Denmark for years now - not all rates and hopefully it will change now due to globally increasing rates, but theoretical it isn't. I am paying the bank interest for tha cash I have in my account there because the bank has to pay the central bank interest on the money it stores there. Brieflely we even had mortgages at negative rates. It all depends on the money policy of the government.

Here is another way to look at the heart of the matter: Is it better to purchase a new vehicle when the manufacturer is offering a zero percent loan, or to purchase the same vehicle financing it at the going rate? Since (in this case) Ford Motor is absorbing the discount (and not the dealer) the zero percent financing is the better deal. The dealer does not have to find a way to negate the discount since it is absorbed the manufacturer. It becomes more complicated when you have a choice of a rebate or a low interest rate. If I had enough money to purchase it with cash I would still take the no interest loan. This would allow me to earn interest on the cash.

Does the program that offered 0.0% financing offer other options such as a rebate or free gas or some other feature? Each of those, if offered as alternatives, needs to be measured against the others. If the 0.0% is in place of say 5.5%, the difference in costs would be the true value of the zero rate. If that amount is less than the rebate offered, then the zero rate wouldn’t be the best option. Furthermore, if the zero rate comes with heavy penalties for a late or missing payment then it might not be the best option. All of the choices I mentioned only make sense if you negotiated the full price before talking financing or even a trade in.

The simplest way is to negotiate the lowest cash price (well below MSRP) you can get, get it in writing, then ask for the 0% financing. Watch them run for cover! Pay cash! Steve’s example of “financing markup” is right on.

I clicked LIKE before Steve even started speaking. He's got a whiteboard - that automatically qualifies for a LIKE. I mean come on - it's Steve!

The guy who made that comment also didn’t take in the fact, that there are laws against jacking up MSRP for a sale, so its easy to report… The one big thing in Australia, not sure about the US, is Fee’s so we have a “finance rate” and a “comparison rate” that takes in the the count fee’s. So in some cases, a 0.0% rate might have $50 / month admin fee. where a 1% rate might have a $0/month fee.. so you do need to check more than just the rate, here in Australia anyway.

My understanding of 0% interest is It is 0% until you miss a payment then it becomes say 1.9% from day one. It is an incentive/reward for people with good credit. I would assume any monies "lost" would be considered advertising for the company issuing the credit. The 0% carries a degree of risk for the consumer that is easily met by not missing a payment.

In the USA, MSRP is set by the manufacture and is printed on the window sticker, and cannot be changed after it is set. Yes, it can change mid year but that's before the windows sticker is printed. but once its printed it is set. I guess in Australia, MSRP is Fluid, LOL.

By the way, if you ever go to a job interview at Ford. Never park your Toyota in the guest parking area. They were so mad they made me move it half a mile away which is the closest non guest parking space and walk the entire distance. At that point I already decided i wasnt going to take the job and just did the interview out of professional obligation of having agreed to be there at a certain time. for it. If thats how they treat potential employees, imagine how bad they treat their employees!

In practice, they wouldn't do a negative interest rate if they needed to do better than 0%, they'd issue a rebate or otherwise reduce the price they're charging. In practice though, I'm not sure how often they need to do better than 0% as that's already under the rate of inflation.

It all depends. You have to calculate how much interest you will pay over the life of the loan vs. how much discount they would give you at the higher interest rate. Also you have to calculate how much interest you will pay if you decide to sell the car early. If you sell the car after only a few years but your loan is for 5 or more years then you throw away some money. You also have to factor in the fact that most interest is paid early on. That can make a difference if you sell a car early or it gets totaled. My Ford Expedition dealer gave us Zero percent for 72 months instead of an extra $4,000 discount. If we only keep it 3 years then we would have paid at least $4000 in interest. If we keep it longer the zero percent will always be better.

A lot of the time to get a zero percent interest rate on a car you have to give up things like a $2,000 rebate or pay a higher price for the car.

Bought a 2001 Impala back in the day December 2001, when no one was buying cars due to the 911 attacks. Got a great price, fair trade and 0%. I think these deals work when the car companies are really hurting! BTW my wife still paid off the loan early cause she hates debt so much! 🙄

Very well taught and explained Professor Lehto. I opt for 0% with the dealer deductions and discounts any day.

Steve, I’m surprised you didn’t mention The Automobile Information Disclosure Act of 1958, commonly known as the Monroney Act or Price Sticker Act. The window sticker is a requirement here in the states and dealers aren’t allowed to jack with it. They can add a supplemental sticker for additional equipment or a “market adjustment”, but the Monroney sticker can’t be messed with.

The profits from car sales are so slim to begin with, it’s why new car dealerships also have a repair facility and body shop facility bundled into 1 place. Dealerships make their money on the repairs of your vehicle. Vehicle sales account for relatively small portion of their profits.

1) A negative interest rate makes since in a period of extended deflation ($100 a year from now will buy more goods that $100 now), but nobody expects deflationary periods to last. 2) What matters is the final total cost of the purchase and financing, discounting inflation, vs opportunity cost of your having more money to spend or invest now. Since Trump is likely to cause heeuuge inflationary bump with his tariffs, a loan now is valuable.

If you want something gasp-worthy, in 2015 i got into a car from a ford dealership in Nevada with a 26.5% interest rate. Admittedly at that point I had no credit and the other option was walking home.

Sadly for car dealerships cash is no longer king. Dealerships typically do not do the financing themselves. It’s typically the underwritten by another financial institution who gives the dealership a kickback for each loan. So the dealership holds virtually none of the lending risk (the FI does) and the dealer gets a kickback. the deal changes a bit for 0% as the manufacturer gets involved. But manufacturers often do this at the end of the year to move “old inventory” as kind of their version of a clearance sale. to make room.

I love how you explain this like you're teaching a 2nd grade math class, lol.

Please don't mount the whiteboard, the rotations made this video even better.

Sometimes there is a choice of 0% or a rebate so that requires a calculator to see what's best. But hey, you dont usually tell them how you will pay for it until you negotiate the price. Right? I never had to do that. Financing comes later in the process.

I prefer a cash rebate over 0% because I prefer to pay off cars in 2 years or so. Both are incentives and which one is better depends on a number of factors.

Having spent a bit of time in the car business, I would point out that the Maroney Sticker on the window lists the MSRP in this country, and the dealer can't just change it on a whim. Some dealers add a "Bump Sticker" on certain high demand vehicles, that indicate a higher price. When I was in California, they included items like $1000 pin stripes, Fabric protector etc. to justify the new price. No matter what, once you negotiate the price, then you go to finance, for the opportunity to buy undercoating, extended warrantees and what not, and get your financing. Two separate processes, the sales departments and finance department are considered separate profit centers. So while the video about 0% being a scam may apply in Australia, it has no relevance here. Love your posts Steve!

There are many circumstances where 0% interest is good. In the case of my parents buying a Heaven Forbid Camry, their Credit Union offered an extremely low interest rate with no prepayment penalties. This is important because they usually pay off a car within a year. The Heaven Forbid 0% financing did not allow prepayment. In this case the minute amount of interest paid over the first year was more than offset by the peace of mind for my parents. Steve Lehto is perfectly positioned to use the 0% financing, and his friendly demeanor aside, someone would have to get up several days early to even get a tiny piece of scam past the good counselor.

When I was young, I bought a camera on credit, at a rate referred to as "Same as Cash". It was 0.0% interest, as long as you paid it off in one year. If the camera was not paid off in those 12 months, they would calculate the interest based on the payments you made, back-charging the interest to the day of the loan. This, of course, was laid out completely in the loan terms (the fine print). Of course, the minimum payments as set up in the loan would never get the camera paid off in the "same as cash" time period. As a new, and slightly naive, borrower , I thought the first 12 months were interest free, and they would begin charging starting with the 13th month. I only realized my error when I got a statement showing the back interest I would owe if I didn't pay off the camera in that 12th month, so I did exactly that. I know lots of people probably didn't catch this and ended up paying a lot in back interest (this was in the 80's, and I had no credit).

You need to run the numbers. Whern you get a rebate offer OR 0% financing it is often cheaper overall to take the rebate and a low interest rate from the credit union. You just need to run the numbers on a case by case basis.

the only time you can have a negative interest rate less than zero, is when you buy something same as cash, which is the same as 0.0% and then you have inflation kick in so that you pay the debt back with money that is worth less. It happens all the time to people who have money in the bank, who's lose money to the bank if their interest rate is lower than the rate of inflation.

He’s also wrong because the dealer can’t change the MSRP price on the Monroney label without violating federal law. The MSRP is the same no matter how you d cider to pay for the car. The dealer might refuse to give a specific deal depending on how you finance the car but the MSRP remains the same. The 0.0% is used to sweeten the deal so you will buy from Ford and not some other manufacturer. At times all of them will offer similar rates to make the sale.

This is pure gold. You learn a lot about how lawyers use communication skills to persuade juries. They spoonfeed them the info very methodically.

Steve, I love your use of the "rotating white board"!!! You hit the nail on the head and drove it in with one blow. Great video!!!! One fine point, in the future you may want to figure out a way to minimize the glare from your lighting. Maybe bounce it off the wall you are facing but it should be painted flat pure white.

If you can finance at a rate lower than the rate of inflation, you’re making money.

What I have done in the pass, was to tell the dealership to drop that price well below invoice, and I will finance with you. Once I got the first billing statement, I paid the car off in full. Advantage: No interest paid & increased credit score. (may may not have the same results, but it has worked twice for me).

A-Plan Ford's A-Plan is intended for Ford employees. This is often considered to be the best possible deal out of Ford's discounted Plan offers. How it's calculated: Invoice - Holdback - Advertising Fee + $275 program fee

You don´t get suckered on interest, you get suckered on the principal. These new cars are terribly overpriced. Seven and TEN year notes on cars now? Shit, they won´t last that long!

0.0% *might* be scam if they are adding or increasing price somewhere else but it's not necessarily one. TLDR Steve is correct.

Zero financing is not offered unless you have a pretty good credit rating. It's low-risk for the lender, yet provides an excellent sales tool. Simple. No scam.

Scam might be a strong word but I think it's fair to say that 0.0% financing is purely a marketing tactic. As you said the same company owns the bank and the manufacturer so they are free to move profit from one division to another. A savvy buyer should ignore the allure of a below inflation interest rate (essentially a negative interest rate) and compare all cars they are considering on total cost of the loan. A good parallel is in trade in values, a dealership might inflate your trade in by $1000 to make you feel like you're getting a good deal even though they had $2000 of wiggle room on the purchase price. The purchase price, trade in, and interest rate are all separate transactions that a dealership can play with to make you feel like you've gotten a good deal when you may not have. As you said your case is a little different because you wanted only a new explorer and are buying with a known fixed price so the only place to negotiate is interest rate. Edit: buyer

I think the Australian guy may be the only person who needed that particular video. Thanks anyhow. Your stuff is great!

How about the fact that the MSRP is printed on the window sticker? It's not like the car has an electronic price sign like they do at Kohl's.

0% is fishy if you lose discounts when you take 0% thats when you have to do some math.

To be fair, 0% financing can be a scam in the sense that it entices people to pay more than they might incur in interest. But no, in a purely mathematical sense, it is not a scam.

Deflation and negative interest rates exist currently in several places around the world, where depositing cash costs you money, and loans pay you to take them out. These are mechanisms to encourage spending and stop hoarding of cash.

So last year I went to buy a new car because they were offering 0% financing. Went in and looked at the car and got approved for the 0%. The problem for me was at this particular manufacturer if you chose the 0% option you had to pay MSRP for the vehicle. So I looked and got pre-approved for a 1.9% rate through my credit union, negotiated the price of the car and the math worked out that I would pay less with the 1.9% financing. Bottom line is you need to educate yourself and know your options. And thanks Steve for helping to educate.

It's not a scam if there is no deception. At worst it's a gimmick. But if you understand the purchase price and the terms of the financing, how is it a scam?

There seems to be the belief that a dealership can change the MSRP to compensate for a 0% interest rate which is not true. The MSRP is usually fixed at the beginning of the model year for new cars by the manufacturer and can not be changed by the dealer; neither can the dealer change the cost of manufacturers' optional equipment or trim packages. Now they can add what ever they want to the price of the car. Recent internet postings have showed new cars with so called Market Adjustments up to $30,000 on a Toyota Forerunner and Ford Lightning, but their the MSRP's are unchanged.

I bought a new truck 6 years ago and got 0% for 84 months, but it was only available on leftovers at the beginning of the new model year.

Steve, you didn't get ripped off, but most people do. It's much easier to explain than you think. Quite often the offer is 0% or $1500 back. If you take the 0% you really paid $1500 in interest, and paying it off early won't get it back. And quite often it can work out to be a simple bait and switch. They advertise that they OFFER 0% but you have to qualify. Personally, I think that if you finance a car you are getting ripped off. (Yes, I got ripped off for years, I know better now.) If you can't afford to pay for it, you can't afford it.

This is right up their with accounts telling you it's bad to pay off your home mortgage. Because you will loose your home mortgage interest tax deduction.....I can't see how paying interest to the bank is better than writing a portion of it off to the government

The guy who said 0.0% is a scam also happens to be a Sovereign Citizen from the State of Florida.

The key to the story is the “A Plan”. Generally a dealer will charge u close to msrp to give u 0%. In that case you’re better off to finance yourself at 2-3 % and negotiate the price down

Buying a new car is dumb.Having car payments is dumb. How much value does it lose in the first couple years? Maybe 25%?

The funniest thing about this video, is that you had to explain this to someone.

I got a Nissan Micra in Australia for 0% finance, actually I paid $1AUD for the financing service for legal service. It was a campaign from Nissan to increase market share in Australia because they were losing to Kia and Hyndai. ie the more cars you see on the road, the more confidence you've made the right choice... mental idea. I paid off the car in 3 years. As part of the disclosure, I asked the car dealer how this was possible. There was a joint program where Nissan/Renault would reduce their margins and for some vehicles make a loss, that set amount was prepared and written off as part of a sales target. The financing was supported by Nissan bank in Japan which has a negative interest rate at the time, so they took advantage of the low/negative rates from their central bank. The program was only for a set number of cars nationally. That way their loss from their sales program was mitigated. So yes, 0% finance can be fine, as long as it's done properly.

Oh....when I turn 18.... California just enacted their mandatory driver insurance law ...I was pulled over while riding my motorcycle and got a ticket the day it went into effect ...... The first insurance company I contacted didn't cover motorcycles....so I went to the Yamaha dealership ,the nearest dealership to me at the time. They had insurance......and I rode away legally.. .my financed insurance rate .. 88.1%