0039 Dawlish T Wall - Building the base

Рет қаралды 519

Күн бұрын

I turn the plans for the railway base into reality, though had to do more sawing myself than I had originally expected to do!
I discussed the plans in the previous Dawlish T Wall video:
• 0035 Dawlish T Wall - ...
Tools I used in this video:
28-piece small right-angle ratchet screwdriver and mini socket set
www.amazon.co.uk/dp/B09J8L9GQV
Bosch electric screwdriver
www.amazon.co.uk/gp/product/B...
10x M6 50mm wing nut bolts
www.amazon.co.uk/dp/B07ST2ZWTT
90 degree right angle positioning square clamp
www.amazon.co.uk/dp/B0CP279PW9
Baseboard Alignment Dowels
www.railwayscenics.com/basebo...

Пікірлер: 19

@NathanielKempson Күн бұрын

Wickes, thats where you get your wood from. I never have wonky bits from Wickes. Just as much choice, but when they deliver to you they hand pick the bits for you and you always get the best ones. At least in my four years of expeirience buying timber from them.

@endoorrailway Күн бұрын

That sounds much better - I'll look at using them next time I order wood online, thanks!

@aleopardstail 2 ай бұрын

liking that clamp the alignment dowels to make an indentation. seriously simple, never thought of that, may borrow that idea

@endoorrailway 2 ай бұрын

I can't claim credit for it - I saw it in a few videos and I think even in one of the pictures of an Amazon listing for other types - it worked nicely 🙂

@iansngauge 2 ай бұрын

Hi Jonathan! Loved watching you put the baseboard frames together! I had to watch through my fingers at times, as I thought either the kitchen worktop or your hand was going to come a cropper, but it all turned out well in the end! Lol! I think a lot of this hobby is about having the right tool for the job as it just makes things so much simpler! All the best, Ian.

@endoorrailway 2 ай бұрын

Hi Ian, thanks! :) There were a small number of occasions where to get a good grip I needed my hand behind where I was drilling - I was very aware and careful on those occasions, but not so careful with the video editing it seems - I probably have footage relevant to the narrative that doesn't show that risk! I don't recall putting the kitchen surface at risk though, so that might just be a camera angle thing. I'll need to add a disclaimer in future - "No fingers or kitchen surfaces were harmed" kind of thing ;)

@iansngauge 2 ай бұрын

@@endoorrailway Haha, yes, a disclaimer next time please! :)

@stratosphere2133 2 ай бұрын

An admirable effort, although your use of a spade bit with that drill one handed was hard to watch, that was particularly dangerous! The end product looks great! 😄

@endoorrailway 2 ай бұрын

Thank you! 🙂 I trust that you're right... but why was the one-handed spade drilling dangerous?

@lachee3055 2 ай бұрын

tape measures are lose at the end to account for the thickness of the metal clip

@andrewbeasley 2 ай бұрын

This - it should be pushed in when measuring internal distances (e.g. the inside of a window 'hole') and extended when measuring the outside (eg the length of a piece of wood). A decent tape will also have the length of block where the tape spools up marked - you add this to the tape reading when you measure internally. There are a few videos around on 'hidden features' of tape measures - they are great gadgets and highly under rated.

@endoorrailway 2 ай бұрын

Thanks, that's a good point - and now that I think about it I see what you mean - it's so that the measurement can be right when you're pushing the tape against something as well as when pulling it off the end of something. But I think it moves further than it's supposed to, because it's definitely giving an offset measurement when in tension.

@endoorrailway 2 ай бұрын

Thanks - I didn't see this reply until after I posted my other one. I'm starting to suspect there's a lot I don't know about my tools!

@pwblackmore 27 күн бұрын

Good as a step-by-step video, then. But the loose end to your tape measure is on purpose, so unless you've damaged it, it should work like this: - an internal measurement will have the hook end pushed IN so that the measurement is correct in that way. However, if you are after an external measurement, the hook end has a bit of 'give' - that's the thickness of the end hook which slides OUT to accommodate for the hook's thickness. A couple of tips here - predrill for the screws, especially at the ends of the wood to stop splitting. One drill bit the size of the screw's shank, and a thinner one that is just enough to give the screw something to 'bite' on. The other is, hold the end of that plywood you are cutting off with one hand and raise it slightly as you work - that'll stop the saw binding and the plywood tearing out. Personally, I'd have clamped the main piece, and then held the cut-off piece slightly (an inch or so) upwards. And - just mind the furniture: cutting thin plywood is quicker if you don't saw through the stool! And a tip for those starting out and finding warped wood... get your lumber retailer to rip 3/4" or 19mm plywood to the widths you want the frame to be.

@endoorrailway 25 күн бұрын

Thank you for taking the time to write-up those tips! A couple of other people explained about the give in tape measures - I think the movement in mine must have become greater over time, because it doesn't measure correctly on the outside / in tension. I did pre-drill all holes - I learned that was necessary from splitting the first frame I made for my N gauge layout! Maybe I could have gone slightly wider on the pre-drill holes? I was worried about not leaving the thread enough to bite into - it's pretty soft wood. Thanks for the tip about where to hold and angle the plywood - I'll give that a go in future. I'm pleased to report that I didn't cut into any of my furniture :) I've recently been watching a channel of a professional railway builder, and he always seems to use plywood for the frames, so that matches your advice... maybe straight softwood strips don't exist?

@pwblackmore 24 күн бұрын

@@endoorrailway Until Earth is as perfectly level as you want your model to be, I wouldn't sweat it. As an N-scaler, I appreciate that even 1/8" can mean the difference, especially trackwork where you can get another wagon in. You won't find perfect lumber - furniture builders, yes they want that, but they generally buy oversize and mill it down. My last model was 1' x 8', and I added removeable 'wings' to add more operations... I could have 6 trains waiting in those wings to represent other towns, ready to pass through the layout for switching (shunting, in Canada) the on-site destinations. I'd send you pics on how to construct them if you really wanted to know. I've a couple of vids that I'm not proud about . On this one, at the 22 second mark you'll see what I mean kzfaq.info/get/bejne/gruWm9li1rDNiqc.html

@endoorrailway 24 күн бұрын

@@pwblackmore Thanks, hmm yes I'm not worried enough to start milling wood to have it perfectly straight. I wouldn't be so concerned for N gauge, but at 1:450 for T gauge I wanted to at least try to get it good - getting the track aligned reliably over the join is going to be a challenge. I don't intend to be building any more bases for quite a while :) Next time will be when I make a new N gauge railway, but that'll be many years away I think. You've packed a lot of track into that small shunting layout! Good use of space.

@KenSetzer 2 ай бұрын

Don't feel bad about the slight wobble. As hard as I try, I always have a slight issue like that, plus I too have noticed my local lumber is terrible: warped, twisted, and often not even cut straight.

@endoorrailway 2 ай бұрын

Thanks for the encouragement - I'm glad it's not just me! I've always got the option of packing it a bit if necessary to keep it stable - so long as I can keep it consistent so that scenery and track join up, it'll be ok.