Good luck with your build, will you be posting any videos of it?

@@BuckeyeBallistics Cheers! Haven't actually thought about filming it. I might just take photos along the way during the build and make a picture montage for that process, but I'll definitely take some vids of the car after it's all in.

I would like to see how it runs afterward, like acceleration runs.

​@@BuckeyeBallistics Yeah it's gonna be interesting haha. I'm doing this as a completely budget build so it gonna be a while till I can get a real tune. I'm gonna have to employ a bit of fuel management trickery for a while. I've heard these engines can comfortably run up to 6 psi on a stock NA tune and internals with 440cc injectors, but I have no proof of that, just what some guy with a turbo Altima said. I'll link the video below, you might have seen it already. I'm going to be doing this in a JDM P12 Primera, I think you guys call the G20 over there, which you only got up to P11. Also it's a QR20DE and not 25 Already got a wide band and a rising rate fuel regulator. The stock injectors and pump should support 7 psi by my calculations so if I can trick the ECU into dumping enough fuel to not lean under boost, hopefully I wont blow her up before I can get a proper tune. kzfaq.info/get/bejne/pJ19l7mmvse3qoU.html

Oh ok, yeah we don't have the qr20de here. And the G20 here has a sr20de. Is it the same engine basically? Our sr20de has 140hp, says qr20de is 148hp, so I think they are different. I drove a car once with the sr20de (Nissan NX2000) and I really liked that engine. Along with the G20 and NX2000, they also put the sr20de in our Sentra and 200sx.

Glad to help out man, thanks for watching.

Lol got what you paid for

@@BuckeyeBallistics the indent is what gave the alternator room to fit. I didn't have to mod anything like you did. So....

Yeah, but that defeats the purpose of a performance header having larger primary tubes to make more power. If you put an effin dent in it, then you just reverted back to factory size on that cylinder. But you're a happy customer so I guess that's all that matters...

@@BuckeyeBallistics A little dent isn't going to effect power. Engine Masters did an episode about this topic with an engine dyno and saw zero power loss by denting and beating headers. Only when they basically flattened the primary did they finally see a power loss. Engine Masters season 1 episode 4 if you want to check it out.

Depends on the engine and header in question- you have to have knowledge of cfm's and volumetric efficiency to understand this. I shouldn't have to say this, but the whole process behind a performance exhaust system (which includes headers) gaining more power for any specific vehicle, is the fact that it increases exhaust flow via reducing restriction. Aftermaket exaust components are always larger diameter for a reason- because it is less restrictive. If you put a dent in it, then you are creating restriction by making the diameter smaller- pretty easy to understand. It doesn't matter if you saw some episode of whatever with one single example. If you can put a dent in it and not lose any power like in the show you quote, then that means you are still getting plenty of flow for that specific application even with the dents (obviously). But as I said, that is an example of 1- do it to a different car and you might lose power. I watched an episode years ago where they dyno tested a cold air intake on a car to see if cold air intakes actually made any more power, and they didn't make more power on that *ONE* specific car with that one specific cold air intake. Then a bunch of people (myself included) told them how foolish they were to declare cold air intakes didn't make extra power just because of that one single test on that one single car, so they re-did it on a different car. And guess what- on a different car they got pretty substantial gains and had to appologize. So what you're saying here about dents not affecting some random car is the same thing. Try it on a few other cars and you will eventually see a loss with certain setups. Again, they are larger for a reason. So to make them smaller with a dent defeats the purpose and *will* make a difference on some applications... i.e. cfm requirements and volumetric efficiency.

Thanks for the info. So far it has been fine though.

I've always wanted to try Megan racing products; looks like good parts for a good price. I have been eyeballing them for years. I don't recall seeing a Megan racing header when I was looking for this car, or maybe I did and it was considerably more, can't remember. I'm doing budget bolt ons to this car so I didn't want to spend a lot, but I knew a $70 header would be trash so I had to spend a little. Just got a cheap CAI for it a few days ago lol. Also I thought the nismo header was discontinued? And Mark isn't my guy, but since he communicated very well and took care of me when there were problems, I didn't have a problem trying to help him out since he's a good vendor. Thanks for the tip about the Megan. One day when I get another Spec-V Sentra to build I'll take a look at the Megan racing header. I've actually owned 2 of those cars. I like em but it's hard to make them fast without a big budget. So if I ever have that budget I plan to build one. Working on building the Mustang here in the next week or two, parts comming. Hoping that will bring more of the car crowd to the channel...

@@BuckeyeBallistics I actually got very very lucky... i found my headers in a junkyard on a totaled Spec V and got it for $15. They had to just recently been installed because they were new, i could tell because they never had a change to change colors from the heat cycling. Thats as budget as it gets. The Nismo header is discontinued, but you can still get them used for insanely unreasonabe prices. I actually picked up my Spec V because I had a 2010 altima that was totaled and I wanted something with less tech on it that I could play with. I also have a KA Altima SE and an amazing amount of parts cross between those two cars and there is something to be said for having two cars that share so many parts.

@@BuckeyeBallistics The megan racing are solid headers, my car is a little loud, but I also installed a downpipe at the same time (I wanted to add a flexpipe to my exhaust to take the stress off the welds on the header just incase. I daily this car, so I wanted something fun and quick, but doesnt necessarily have to be fast. I used to have built early 90s SHOs and they were fast. My dad's minivan makes 400hp, so the bar is pretty high in 2020 for what is considered a fast vehicle, lol

@@trssho91 Lol wrecked with a brand new header; sounds like somebody was doing some runs with the new part and screwed up. And yeah I hear you about new vehicles having insane power. I get comments on my stock WRX pull video, telling me it's slow because their new Camry is faster or their new MKZ is faster. And I'm like, well yeah, those have over 300hp and the WRX is only 268.

Thanks for the recommendation on the Megan header! What do you do about the cat with the sensor? Will the check engine light come on or do you need a tuner? I have an 03 spec v that I just bought recently to daily but turns out that 2000 miles in of owning it, it now needs a new exhaust manifold with cat but I don’t know if I wanna put a cat on it again so am considering a header instead.

Another viewer in the comments last week said the megan racing header gave no issues for him. Maybe research that one? It was a pain in the ass but I'm glad I got it on there. Not only will I now not have to worry about blowing it up, but it runs stronger with that header on there and sounds better too; more aggresive, if that's your type of thing. I'm about to do a pull video (0-100) again now that the header is on there to compare times, then install the cold air intake I just got for it and try again.

Yeah well as you can see from my video, you're not the only one. However, not as bad as the exhaust manifold on our 06 Corolla XRS- requires subframe removal 🤣

It's barely louder because it still has the main cat, a resonator, and muffler. A tad more noise under the hood, that's all. I'll post a video soon doing some pulls now that I have the header on there, then you can compare to the old pull video where it's stock if you want.

Yeah see I "knew better" than to buy a $50 ebay or amazon header, but at the same time I didn't want to put a $400+ header on a $1500 car. So I thought by paying more ($150-$200) for a semi-name brand header, that I would avoid the fitment issues- guess not. In hindsight I would say buy the $50 one and just pay a shop to reshape a new down/midpipe to bolt up to it and the rest of the exhaust, or do it yourself if capable.

I still don't understand why nobody makes a racing header for them. It's the same engine so it might bolt up to the head, but the routing is probably different and won't line up- a custom downpipe would be necessary.

I've been driving the crap out of this car, hotrodding it everywhere I go and no issues thus far.

I have a spec v, but yes....the #1 runner cooks the rear bearing out of the alternator. I got one from SC Concepts, good mounting points and he left extra material on it so I cut it down to my exact need using plain old tin snips.

No, the factory heat shield isn't going to bolt up to a header. They make header wrap to keep the heat in, but I'm not that worried about it. So far haven't had any issues, driven it and ran it up over 100 at least a dozen times.

@@BuckeyeBallistics Mine doesnt have a factory heat shield

@@BuckeyeBallistics I've been thinking about heat shields an wonder if you can use a foil roaster tray as a cheap heat shield

I think foil is actually party flammable if it gets hot enough. If it's of any comfort, this car is daily driven and I have still have had absolutely 0 issues without the heat shield present...

Did the header add any power? I was looking at another companies header for mine and they said they had a 4hp mid range gain, but loss on top end.

@@BuckeyeBallistics personally i dont think it did anything and if it did its so small you cant even tell. for all the fuss i wouldnt even bother. plus the headers on that car comes off the rear of the engine so you dont even get to see the damn thing when it turns cool colors. it cost me about 240 for the header 20 for new gaskets 200 to get it put in ( i know u can do it) and then i wound up reduing my whole exhaust cause it sounded like shit with that loud ticking noise. it was embarrising. and the fumes were very strong with no cats and it was leaking into the car... it turned out to be the gaket off the flex pipe to the header, but i put factory manifold gaskets on too just in case. so had to put it off two times.. just a month of my life i want back.

and check engine light stays on if you dont use the little extender.

@@el-hp1lj If I still have my Rio in a couple years I had wanted to turbo it, but I may sell it this year.

Yea mines a love hate relationship. Its too slow.. hey when u installed light weight pulleys. Did ur idle speed go up. Mine used to be at 600 now its 900

Nice

No tune required. HP gain is nearly instant. You need to disconnect the battery as I discussed in the video which resets the ecu so it can learn the new fuel trims for the new amount of flow. If you don't disconnect the battery, it will eventually learn it, but it will take longer and feel like little to no gain at first.

As I said in the video the included spacer will eliminate getting a code. To be honest I didn't intall mine yet and the light stayed off for a good while, only recently came on a few weeks ago, then went back out, then came back on. But if you use the spacer, this won't happen.

I got the header and I wrapped it I hope it fits 😆

I don't think I've ever seen a wrapped header on a 4cyl Altima. Good luck, maybe it'll fit. I just replaced the alternator and the new alt had a lot more room and didn't need cut to fit. So it depends on the bend of that primary tube and the size/shape of the alt.

I just installed it and I had no clearance issues and it was the same header as yours when you had clearance issues I can show you a photo if you want too lol

I believe you. Not every one is bent the same and like I said, the shape of the alternator can affect it as well.

Thanks for subbing. Alright, the xs power is more than $200 on ebay now. But remember, in the video I had an issue with one of the headers and went with a different one, and I thought the xs was the problematic one? Regadless, here is a link to the guy that I bought them from and who did the exchange for me, and he is still selling both the xs and the srs: ebay.com/usr/markracerx When I installed the header, the rest of my exhaust was still factory stock. So, it didn't really make the car any louder, maybe 2% more. Later I installed a cheap performance muffler and I didn't think it was too loud at all, though it definately made an audible note and you could hear the car driving down the road. Recently I got a comment on one of the videos from someone who installed a performance muffler or catback or something and said their car was still pretty quiet, not "loud" like mine- so I concluded mine was louder due to the header. So it will definately make your car louder since you have the catback. BUT, mine wasn't overly loud in my opinion, though it definately sounded like a modified car. If you haven't already, check out the exhaust videos I did to compare. You can find them easily in the Altima playlist on the channel... Lastly, I recommend doing the header. Because, as I stated in this video (I think), the factory manifold cat breaks up and destroys the engine. So if you want this car to last you a while, I would definately get that factory manifold off of there. And also in regards of longevity, I have heard reports of the header being too hot (because it is closer) and frying the alternators. Apparently some company out there makes a heat shield for the alternator, or you could rudimentarily fabricate your own.

@@BuckeyeBallistics Thanks for the lengthy detailed response, amazing! I did watch this entire video, I must have missed that you replaced the original one you bought, so I lost that info regarding a return and replacing of the new headers. I remember you talked about the dent in the 4rth port and this would restrict the power so you cut back the alternator. Looks great, my car has 250,000KM right now, I'm not too worried about the calcilytic breaking off, I'm not a heavy driver. I'm just trying to get a few extra years, maybe 2 out of this one (60,000km) on the cheap. I was looking at getting a friend to weld the existing Manifold. I thought about getting headers, in Ontario, Canada we have to have emission testing every 2 years. Without the catalytic I don't think I'd pass. I don't want to ramble on too much, I really appreciate your videos, noticed your passenger handle, mine too on the same side broke off. Was going to go and get one from the scrap yard.

No other mods currently, but I wanted to put a CAI on it and do somethin with the exhaust. Maybe sometime soon...

@@BuckeyeBallistics awesome. Thank you, I am going to do the header change. I've seen another video that says the header heats the alternator and SC concepts makes a heat shield for it...did you have any issues with it? Also my car burns oil like crazy...any thoughts?

I haven't had any issues with the ALT yet, but a heat shield wouldn't be a bad idea. I bet you could make one for free with a pie shell or two with cutters and some fiberglass between layers. And the oil burning? Yeah, that's the problem that the manifold cat breaking up and getting sucked into the engine caused. The ceramic peices screwed up the cylinder walls and rings, scratching it all up, causing oil burning. Other than that, valve seals. I would highly suggest runnning some Restore engine restorer in it, the silver can with blue red and black labeling, which helps fill in the scratches. If it's that bad I would run it with every oil change, and also run it starting now.

I'm a retailer like the guy you got the exhaust from...so I can get one pretty cheaply...I don't mind putting out the cash

For a performance application, OBX - Comes with catless header like in this video and midpipe for around $500.

@@BuckeyeBallistics is it better to have a catless header or a header w a high flow cat? Not sure which is better for my car

Depends on what you mean by "better." Most power? Catless, which won't "hurt" your car if that's what you mean...

@@BuckeyeBallistics ahh ok got it and will there be a check engine light if I go catless?

Potentially, yes. But that's what the o2 sensor extentions are for, to fix that.

As long as the header is properly bolted to the head and to the downpipe it will be fine. Yes you will need a new gasket...

@@BuckeyeBallistics thank you 👍👍

No problem

I would say probably not. Your best bet would be to get on some of the Nissan forums to see if someone has tried this in Cali. Worst case, just keep the stock one around to throw on when you go to inspection and then take it back off after you pass lol.

@@BuckeyeBallistics right on man thanks for your response. when i get my new headers im definitley using your video to help me lol cheers

Anytime and thanks for watching

No tune required. If you don't use an o2 sensor spacer (my header came with it), then you wil get a check engine light for the o2 sensor. Car still runs great, now has custom exhaust and aluminum crank pulley as well. Check out the Altima playlist on my channel for the other videos.

I have done that before with a couple cars, not sure why I didn't think of that with this one. Probably because I was distracted with wanting to push it off a cliff...

*header

The o2 spacer is supposed to go on the 2nd o2 sensor (bank 2) which is the o2 sensor that is *furthest* away from the engine. But both codes you stated are for the bank 1 o2 sensor on this car, which is the o2 sensor that is closest to the engine- so the codes shouldn't have anything to do with the spacer because the spacer goes on the other one. Possible cause for those codes are faulty o2 sensor reading, short in the wiring, or bad connection. If you got grease, oil, wd40, or anything on the tip of the o2 sensor, it could cause it to read faulty. When removing and installing it, the wires twist and could have caused a short/break in the wiring. Lastly, inspect the connection at the other end of the wire for good connection without dirt and corrosion. But since both codes point to the bank 1 o2 sensor in the manifold that you had to mess with to install the header, I'm going to say there's something wrong with it now since you had to remove and install it. Thus, I would say replace the bank 1 o2 sensor. The only thing I don't understand is what you mean by it keeps blowing a fuse? What fuse? Do you mean it's causing the check engine light to illuminate? Because that's not a blown fuse...

@@BuckeyeBallistics Fixed it took the spacer out and just put the O2 in the Midepipe and the CEL went away. So it was the Spacer not letting the O2 sensor Read properly. I guess if you keep your Cat on you dont need a Spacer on the Mid piping.

@@BuckeyeBallistics and the Fuse was blowing up for O2 sensor literally On every start it would blow with the Spacer on.

Sounds like you have some electrical issues. I wouldn't hold my breath yet if I were you- if there is a short in the wiring then you could have temporarely closed the short by messing with it again. Idk, doesn't make sense to me. Your codes were for bank 1 which is the other o2 sensor.

@@BuckeyeBallistics Yeah Bank 1 controls the temp of the O2 and Bank 2 controls the A/F mixture so the spacer was bot allowing bank 2 to get a Proper A/F mixture which is why it threw a Code thinking something was wrong. And i dont think its a Short before i put the Header on my car ran completely fine with the Stock header. I think you only need an O2 Spacer is if you delete your cat on the mid piping. But yeah no more CELs for me.

Brand? I clearly stated in the video what brand and who I bought them from. But I understand the video is long, so I'll cut you a break. Originally I bought the XS-Power header, then exchanged for SRS with the vendor due to fitment issues. If you want to know more about that and the vendor, it's all in the video.

Guns&Cars Nahh mate sorry yes you did mention it an I’m sorry I should have watched again hey very well explained video man I watched all of it my car is a Aussie suv with the same motor an found this very helpful thank you for your time

You're welcome, and thanks for watching.

@@DivsLetsDoit same im in Sydney have nissan x trail t30

I showed and discussed in the video who and where I got it from- ebay.

That would depend on the header and the engine. If you're a "mechanic," then you would realize there is a reason the primaries are always larger diameter and have smother bends than the factory unit, as this is how most of the power gain is achieved. I could go into further detail about why and how it works, and why some cars with some headers may not see a loss from a dent (volumetric efficency), but I can see you know what you're talking about so it would be pointless. Oh, and I'm a mechanic too 😉

I can't lie about fact and physical events. Cause no matter what it happened and my or your disbelief doesn't impact it's existence. Just physics.

Also you should use a 555 timer chip with a few 100kohm and 10k ohm resistor to vary the resistance the of the signal. The O2 sensor sends to the computer if u just use one resistor it will or could put the car in limp mode. But if u vary the signal/resistance it will trick the comp into thinking everything is STOCK

I didn't say you were lying nor did I say I was in disbelief. I said it would depend on the header and the engine. Now I'm repeating myself because you want to imply I said something I didn't, so I'm done with this conversation.

I never calculated the mpg after the install, but it seemed to stay about the same. There is definately a performance gain: the header is the best mod I have done of the 3, in terms of power gain. A good header on this car is an 8-9 hp gain. I posted an acceleration video before and after the header install if you wish to compare, easily accessed in my Altima playlist on the channel.

@@BuckeyeBallistics thanks for the reply and helpful info! I was blown away after putting a full 3” exhaust on my 240sx, it completely changed the power band in the mid and top end! Iit was kind of funny how something so simple made the biggest difference. Engines really are just air pumps that if you open up either side, they can breathe faster/more air

Yup

The pre-cat yes. The main cat is further down the exhaust system.

I don’t think I have a problem with the main cat. The pre cat is considered bank 2 in this gen Altima right? I’m still learning cars so sorry for the questions I’m asking!

Bank 1 is one side of the engine, bank 2 is the other side (because you have a V6). Upstream o2 is the closest to the engine, downstream is further away. You will have 4 o2 sensors because you are a V6, 2 on each side: Bank 1 up and down stream, Bank 2 up and down stream. I only have 2 because mine is a 4cyl; no banks, just an upstream and downstream.

@@BuckeyeBallistics did the headers increase your throttle response do you think it will be able to run with maximas at this point?

I mean the car is a little quicker. Intake and exhaust mods are mid range and top end gains- so not much affect on "throttle" response, but yes it pulls a little harder when you floor it if that's what you mean. I keep forgetting to post a new video doing 0-60 0-100 now that I have the header on there, because I did one when it was all stock for comparison. When I get the new vid up you can compare. And no, the same year Maxima has almost 100 more HP with it's 3.5 V6. Adding just a header to a 2.5 4 cylinder isn't going to get it close at all.

If you buy a pre-cat header you could end up having the same issue- no garuntee it will line up any better. Take it to an exhaust shop if you have to and have them put a 1 foot or less section there with the right bend so it will line up. They usually have the donut gaskets at the shops to do this kind of stuff; find one that can fix it. Unless you can jack up part of the exhaust so it lines up better, tilt/drop/raise the engine to do the same, or get the bolts tighter to make it seal. I suppose there is the option of welding it up as well (to seal it), but then don't plan on ever getting it off after that lol. If I remember correctly, mine was pretty crooked in the video and I just tightened the bolts down real tight enough for it to seal- but be careful not to strip them out or break them. Those are all my ideas man, good luck with it.

@@BuckeyeBallistics yeah going to have to go to a shop and see if i can get some help cause this has been the biggest pita. I have ebay headers on i almost felt they were to short to like they didn’t meet well with the mid Pipinf

@@BuckeyeBallistics what cel codes did you get on your install i dont get how people donthis without gettong any codes

I didn't get any for months, then randomly one day it came up for the o2 sensor because it didn't install the extention. Then it would go out, then come back on, back and forth every few days. You have to install the o2 extention on the right o2 sensor to keep this from happening. They read the a/f ratio, so that could be what your code is for... I assumed you had an exhaust leak the way you made it sound; but if you don't have a leak, then the code is from the o2 sensor.

@@BuckeyeBallistics yeah i tried to use 2 O2 sensor Bungs spacers but i was only able to fit one in there might have to bye the 90 degrees spacer.?

Nope, and still no issues.

It occasionally comes on and off. But all I have to do is install the o2 sensor spacer that came with it to fix that.

Did you ever find any? I've been looking

Ran fine, no tune

I just replaced the factory manifold with the header. I've also since done the muffler and a cai.

@@BuckeyeBallistics nice, wat was ur work around for the cat codes if it was throwin any?

As I discussed in the video, it came with a spacer for the o2 sensor that eliminates the CEL from comming on. I know it's a long video, but every question you have asked me so far was answered in the video...

yea sry about that its been a long few days working on things

Ur good

This *is* a qr25de, but it won't fit the 09 because the exhaust routes different on that generation. About your only option that I'm aware of is the OBX kit, and it costs a lot more...

No clue

@@BuckeyeBallistics well I can tell you now the XS Power outlet flange is tapped M10x1.5. Nissan stock is M10x1.25 however the dorman spring kit which is M10x1.5x72mm for buick century works perfectly for anyone buying those headers.

I'm not sure how much of the video you watched- I started with XS and ended up with SRS in the end. There was a reason for it being 40 some minutes long. But thanks for the P.S.A. for anyone else installing XS...

@@BuckeyeBallistics yeah I saw the whole thing. I was replacing a header from DNA motorsports so I figured I wasn't going to have the fitment problem you had and I didn't not even with the alternator but mine isn't stock. There's some dude selling Shields for the alternator which is a good idea but they're so expensive you can just buy a new alternator when it dies from the Heat from the header.

@@BuckeyeBallistics BTW xspower gives you the angle bung for the 02 sensor. I ordered direct for $150 shipping included. Just dont use the carbon fiber manifold gasket. MLS + permatex copper. I found out the hard way.

No, won't fit.

Not bad. Check out the Altima playlist on the channel and you can see for yourself 👍

No, 07 and up is slightly different.

Said in the video bud...

Hard to tell from that vague description and without having the car in front of me, but I would say make sure the o2 sensors aren't messed up after install.

@@BuckeyeBallistics I can send u a video

Wondering if it was the donut gasket

I suppose that's possible, but then you would likely have an exhaust leak if that was the problem. And sure send it, but I can't garuntee the video will tell me anything...

Showed in the video...

Of? Still holding up if that's what you mean.

Saw what?

Yes