For SURE a sleeper

Glad it was helpful!

You're welcome! Glad it helped

Got it on Ebay - Searched - NEW HARDENED ACURA RDX 07-12 TURBO ACTUATOR EYE BOLT & NUT & CLIP MADE IN USA

Unfortunately it sounds as if that may be the next step. Sorry for the delay, was that Indeed what needed to happen in your case?

I don't know man I fixed the coolant leak and the vehicle been good for a month, clear the code and It never came back. I noticed it started leaking coolant again somewhere and once it started becoming dry in the resivoir it reacts with the vehicle. I notice with the Rdx its very intelligent on its own compared to my Acura TL. The vehicle notice when something wrong to the slightest and will throw a code. Now if you know about vehicles, you will know where to start and what to tackle. As I said previously I know the rod and actuator are good plus the turbo is fine Imo. So the info I'm getting from this vehicle is the coolant leakage which is somewhere near the turbo is causing the vehicle the throw code and the code it throws is the turbo because the performance system is compromised. I'd advice people to tackle the leaks first weather its coolant, exhaust, etc. Them little things triggers the system. So in this case all I'm going to do it fix the leak clear the code and not stress. If it comes back depends on timing wise 1 month- 2 month. Inspect the vehicle, but in my case I'd clear it and go on with my day. I know the turbos fine and everything else is fine. I feel my vehicle is just warning me look out for what could potentially be a performance compromised. Thanks for the help hope it helps for people in the future. 🙏🏾

Hmmmm - at this point, you have covered all of the points of failure, aside from the wiring. I would check continuity between each wire related to the Purge valve and fuel sensor. Good luck sir!

Brought the nut to the top to lock in place. Good luck sir!

Is it possible to turn the top bolt too far and have it come off the threads while trying to tighten?

Sorry to hear that. there are two-three nuts, that need to be on the threads before the actuator eye is placed on, tighten as needed to make sure its all tight and report back. You want very little play, if any at all. Good luck my friend.

I appreciate that and while I agree, I’m my situation, that didn’t apply. It’s had maybe 20k miles on it since repair. However, I do agree with your statement. The customer was strapped for cash at the time.

Yessir! Just tighten the nut and locking nut from there it was stable rather than loose.

Its either a wastegate issue, bent rod on wastegate or crack. Could also be a vacuum leak from a broken hose going to the boost controller. - I would have it inspected prior to purchasing the actuator eye part I refer to in the video. Good luck!

I just fixed this today, change out the boost sensors (2) driver side right behind the valve cover. Fixes the overboost issue

I will try that and see if it fixes mine.

From what I understand there is only one boost sensor? Did you replace the MAP sensor also?

⁠@@MikeHunt2053what are symptoms of overboost? Right now I have the check engine light coming on SH AWD as well. Any suggestions on how to fix this?

Info thing? The car is 100% stock.

It’s also very different than my 2009 rdx tech package

@@toukoubaby I think he has the non tech pkg car.

Yep! Still no code, worked wonders. Doesn’t feel loose either. I’d say it was a W. Good luck my friend

My apologies, it was hard to handle the camera back there in such a tight spot. I used two 10mm wrenches - hope that helps!

I would definitely attempt to try again, without the clip, things could fall right back out of place. good luck!

@@dashautorepair I mean it was really hard to do, both me and my friend tried doing it for over half an hour. I’ve been the car for a few days now and it seems to be working good. I don’t really know how it could fall off again since it’s tight and only moves up and down. Even with the heat shield off the clip was impossible to put on. I mean even getting it off was really hard, it was so tight I had to like pry it off with a screwdriver and a hammer.

Well, I was unable to source the part online from Honda/Acura - I could have called the dealer, but I found an aftermarket part on Ebay - That is hardened(which is the cause of the issue entirely from the factory) I went with one that was midgrade price wise and Grade 8. To ensure this doesn't happen again. Here is a link to what I originally searched tinyurl.com/5y9cbz8k Good luck friend!

If the turbo gauge is not reading, I would think a vacuum line was ruptured, or needs replaced. With the car not moving as normal - makes me think it is in Limp-mode. It seems there may be a bit more going on with your particular situation then the video posted.

Absolutely, I'm always down to bring in new customers. LOL

@@dashautorepair haha! I ended up replacing it myself! It took so long because I have big hands but def was a easier fix than I thought!

Did this car have a idle jump on random starts before you tightened the rod?

Tbh it is quite annoying to finagle

I have come to find this out as I have gotten older...

This motor is actually a decent turbo motor tho. In most cases I agree but this is a car with potential