That's awesome that's really great that you figured it out

So you work on cars yourself cause I sure need this done right now

The cam tool and the crank timing Peg tool is typically enough but it is nice to isolate the crank as well if you can

Well either the timing is off or maybe there's a fuel pressure problem

I mean I think the flywheel screws are like 35 to 40 ft lb something like that and then the phaser bolt is like 18 ft lb but there's other videos where I talk about that stuff I'm no longer currently working at Ford I'm a general manager at an independent shop so I don't have access to that information on me anymore if you ask me on Monday again then I'll be able to get it for you but right now I don't have it in front of me

Thanks

Did you try spending the engine backwards just a little bit and then running it back forward right after that to see if the timing tool will fit and if it doesn't what I feel like you're going to have to do is you're going to have to read time your crank gear to the little hole in the front cover and then you're going to have to return your camshaft to the little camshaft tool that goes on the opposite side of the phasers and then you're going to have to loosen your phasers up and re-time them to the tool and lock everything back down

You do not need to remove any timing components only the engine belt

Email me pictures Poissorichard.rp@gmail.com

They should not be sliding they have to be tapped in after the main cap is torqued down and anaerobic sealant is used under it

@@FordBossMe I'll have to check again tomorrow then! They were on the back of the adjusters when I first removed them from the camshafts. Figured they had to be placed on those adjusters again prior to installation, they just slid back as I slid the adjusters back onto the camshafts.

@@FordBossMe Checked again, you were correct! Tapped them in and they're all good now. Thanks for the help!

New design?

I'm on vacation currently Email me Poissorichard.rp@gmail.com

I thank you for your reply after running part number with parts department found out last dealership installed cam phaser for a 1.6l transit and manually timed it 🤯

Trade it

@@FordBossMe Thanks. Looking at an Escape 2.0 Ecoboost AWD on X plan or Mazda CX5 Turbo AWD. Bought my last 5 cars on Ford X but no new Ford sedans. Keeping my 2018 Focus 2.0 NA. Only 56k on it. 2012 Focus 2.0 NA went to 198k before I traded it.

I don't know about putting it back on, maybe you need a new one

Dude there's multiple tools that are needed for this job I don't know how your only referencing one after all the videos I've made on this

There's a little plug in the back of the block it's a 10 mm when you pull it out you can put a stop that goes in there it's like a threaded stop pin that goes up against the crank and then it through the front of the flywheel there's a hole and that little hole winds up with a hole in the front cover and you can put like a M6 bolt through that into the hole of the front cover and it could help hold plus you could pull the starter out if you wanted to and put a flywheel tool in there to bolt it down I don't know how you only came up with one pin

@@FordBossMe sorry I guess I worded it wrong. A lot of after market timing kits for the 1.5/1.6 don’t come with the flexplate holding tool. I guess what I’m asking is if you have the crank tdc pin, cam holding tool and the vct locking tool, is it ok to torque the crank bolt or is the flex plate holding too a must. I have 303-1097, 303-748, 303-1552 but always have to borrow the shops 303-393

Yeah that's case-by-case basis on the cam lock on the rear of the cams if you have to pull the injector Rail and the valve cover to get to the rear of the cams for the cam lock bridge I would not do that that's a waste of time but if you have the engine out sure of course I would

And it doesn't have anything to do with doing it right the first time because not even the manual calls for that cam lock bridge on the back side if the only thing you're doing is a timing belt with the engine in Chassis So I get that you may do things a certain way but I also do things a certain way and we're going to leave it at that

I wasnt trying to be a dick! I was just trying save some trouble for someone. The certain vehicle im talking about was brought to my shop on a trailer with a crank no start. The timing belt had slipped because the serpintine belt broke and pieces had gotten back there on the crank gear. So as i got it running it had a miss but i couldn't tell the phaser was stuck and had the cam advanced until i put the cam locks in. It just would've savead time to check it all since the car was brought to me with a crank no start. My shop we work on evry make and model of vehicle. Sorry to have commented!

The only timing belt that runs in oil is the 1.0 l

@@FordBossMe Thanks a lot and thanks for the videos you make.

What does p0016 mean I don't know what that means I don't have like a memorized memory bank

Yes leave it in place

Thank you being that he didn’t have it correct first time and tried to start it am I waisting my time putting in in time and locking everything down correctly?? Cams were about 5-6 teeth off how bad are they to bend valves??

@@FordBossMe FYI escape retimed Balancer torqued correctly. Fired right up no issues👍🏻. Thanks for the information!!!

prior to you putting back into timing was it cranking freely or it had some compression to it while cranking i have the same issue was off timing and redid it and now my engine is spinning freely prior to it with timing was not aligned correctly it had compression feel to it while cranking

@@erickrobles5801 yea had compression retimed fired right up with no issues. Was off by maybe 3 teeth when I redid it.

I don't understand what's conflicting the 1.5 L in the 1.0 L are two different engines and yes the 1.5 L is a drive belt the 1.0 L is a wet belt and the oil pumps are always failing on the 1.0 L by 30 40,000 Mi because of that wet belt system

You're trying to compare two different engines and saying that there's some kind of conflicting info or you're confused in some way but I don't understand that they are not the same engine

And the new 1.5 L 3 cylinder also is not wet

@@FordBossMe Thanks. My description wasn't worded well. I tried to find out if the 1.5 4-cyl had a wet belt. Some say that it does. Your video seems to indicate that it doesn't. My motivation for learning about this, is because Ford made this mistake on a different, newer engine and thought maybe they've been doing this for a while. I wanted to learn more about what's in my car which is the 1.5 4 cylinder. I know it has its issues with the head gasket near the space between cylinders, and the oil in the intercooler. But no wet belts, that's a relief!

The pick up for your fuel tank is in the bottom most sump area of the tank. If there is debris in your tank, full or not, the pump will suck it up. True, the fuel acts like a cooling agent for the pump and running it low causing aeration of the fuel can shorten the life of a fuel pump, but, if there is debris in your tank sitting on the bottoms, it's going to get sucked in no matter what level of fuel is in it. 20 years as a professional mechanic I have taken thousands of tanks apart for fuel pump replacement, typically, the only debris in them, is from the small amount of dirt I let get in there during the re&re process and that was always cleaned out before returning the tank back into service. Unless sabotaged by an angry ex,,,,,,most fuel tanks don't carry debris in them anymore, thus, why manufacturers got rid of the inline fuel filter on vehicles over a decade ago. Early years of vehicles sure, debris in tank dislodged, nowadays, urban legend

You have to install the new updated block, so you need short block engine update

@@FordBossMe nice one mate for quick reply , that’ll cost big money if I change the Block, what about just skim the head with new head gasket?

@@omarmrd no man it's not a head gasket problem it's not a head problem it's a block problem so no matter what you do to the head or what gasket you put in there it's not going to fix it

@@FordBossMe definitely I will take your advice , thanks for your time mate,you’re a legend .

Also, one last question if I may. I see there are oil seals that sit there around the end of the cams. Does that mean there should be no oil on the bolts themselves when I take them out. Because they have a lot of oil on them and some sludge..

Yes oil is supposed to be on the bolts that's normal the fact that you see sludge in the vehicle probably wasn't taken care of very good tells me that there's probably some major damage done to those valves to the camshafts to the bearing surfaces would probably ended up happening is the timing slipped kiss the valve Spent A Rod or something like that and now you have the result of all the chaos

It needs a new engine

Even if you can get that engine to work right after all of this it ain't worth taking the chance get a new engine

@@FordBossMe gotcha. Not what I wanted to hear but what I needed to hear. Thanks man, an honor to hear back from you.

Just got back home

You don't. They ate really easy

I don't really have any family in Carpentersville only co-workers but I'm sure they will be fine

@@FordBossMe he’s talking about your girls family

Make them match up, they HAVE TO

Follow the timing process to the T

Good thing Grandma Has the kid and dog because she is crapping in her yard and I cut the grass shorter this time and it's only been 9 days

I'm back home now as of 4hrs ago

@@FordBossMe week long holidays end too fast.