Cheers! Can't promise we'll have frequent episodes, but already banking footage for the sour beer program!

Cheers, thanks for watching!

Still learning ourselves! Always great to pass along what we learn as so many others have done for our benefit!

Pretty much all the delivery drivers who have been dropping things off the last year were excited when we finally opened!

We're around 150 PPM for calcium, chloride, and sulfate for most of our hazy-hoppy beers. The rest of the minerals are pretty low. We have enough carbonate that we add phosphoric acid to hit our target pH.

An inline hop-back is the classic solution for shorter hot-side exposure for hops. I haven't found them to be especially efficient for aroma impact on either the home or commercial scale though. I actually like the character of whirlpool hops as a component of IPAs, even at home I was doing hop-stands of 30-40 minutes to increase kettle hop character. While it does chase off the delicate aromatics, these are what dry hopping imparts.

Hmmm, not sure why Scott was leaking over onto my channel. We were both on lavalier mics. I didn't mess with them, but probably should have just converted both to mono.

That's about what we do for DIPAs, for this and most IPAs we dry hop at 3.3 lbs per bbl (8.5 oz in 5 gallons).

@@sapwoodcellars8378 thanks! Had the pleasure of meeting Scott this past Saturday at Whitey's. You guys are doing great stuff (including these videos). Congratulations!

It should be the same percentages. We get a bit more color from the direct fire at the this scale, so your beer may end up an SRM lighter, but nothing I'd work to change! The hop scaling is a bit more complex given our longer/hotter whirlpool than most homebrewers.

@@sapwoodcellars8378 thanks a lot

2019. Still going through review from several hop experts.

@@sapwoodcellars8378 Cant wait

I find a lot of NEIPAs to be under-bittered. I think there should still be a balancing amount of iso-alpha to offset the sweetness of the higher FG. We do lower the whirlpool temp for some lower gravity beers, but still usually 185-195F. The only time I go below 180F is for hoppy sours post-Lacto.

Plumbing is sometimes a limitation. In my system the only option to knock out back into the whirlpool is through the door which isn't ideal.

With this batch the first dry hop addition was made while fermentation was still active. That provides yeast that scavenge (the hopefully minimal) amount of oxygen introduced during dry hopping. Since this video we have added a pressurized hop doser to further reduce DO pick-up. Key especially post-fermentation. The beer is allowed to warm to 71F toward the end of fermentation. This allows the yeast to complete fermentation and convert diacetyl. So far we haven't had any issues with 6-8 days before cooling. We monitor flavor and FG before crashing. Nearly all craft breweries cold crash their beer post-fermentation. 35F is actually warmer than most, 31-32F is typical. Cold accelerates floculation and sedimentation. This allows us to get beer that is free of particulate without the need for filtration, which can strip hop aromatics and is a risk for DO pick-up. A centrifuge is essentially artificial gravity. It allows this sedimentation to happen quickly, dropping out yeast and hop particulate without the need for extended cold conditioning. Many of the larger breweries that specialize in hazy IPAs use them to fantastic effect! The key is a light hand, controlling the speed and flow avoid stripping everything out. The perception of mouthfeel is complex stuff. Water chemistry, yeast, malt, and hops all play a role in the texture of a beer. Rings of Light is probably the beer I'm most proud of because of the luscious body even under 5% ABV, Hope that helps to provide some clarity!

@@sapwoodcellars8378 ty for your answers, but if I look at the beer you drink and the haze I ve to say, that there is still active yeast in and that cold crashing is a good thing but if you dont let it mature in the tank for 2-3 weeks under min. 0.8-1,2 bar your haze and so your flavor will be flawed. Cooling doesnt prevent filtration, but if you decide to ve a hazy beer like IPA you need some time. Which brings me to the question how do you carbonate your beer? And if you are so in panic of oxygen, why you dont add some vitamin C during dry hoping? Centrifuge seems like a good idea but I dont like it. First, temperature exposure. Second, shear forces on proteins and dextrins. Third, CO2 has to be added afterwards. Perception is complex....rly xD. I brew beer now for 15 years and doing my master in brewery technology atm and I wish I could taste your beer because I really like what and how you brew I can see the love and dedication. Keep it. Would love to see a beer with bourbon smoked wood chips, think would hit your style!

Other breweries that specialize in hazy IPAs have had them tested and consistently found a relatively low level of yeast cells (

@@sapwoodcellars8378 now I understand much more! you mature it in your kegs...well ever experienced autolyse (~selfdestruction of yeast cells)? And hop creep must be a pain cause every keg could be different. A centrifuge does make sense for you...so expensive :(. If you mean the long riping process in a tank not keg with "best german practices" you are probably right it doesnt fit your style but it would maybe help with some problems. but I am super happy with your barrels, tasted a wheat beer out of a sherry barrel in belgium, amazing! Good luck!

Never had any issues with autolysis. Most of our kegs are stored cold, which greatly reduces the chances of a significant amount of cells dying over the month from kegging to the beer running out. English yeast tends to be more flocculant than German strains, so most of it is left behind in the fermentor. The bulk drops out in just 24 hours.