Good on you bro for taking your boy to work. A couple days doing real work with dad is better than a couple months of school. I have great memories of going out with my dad, and taking my son out with me.

As a pretty much “ do almost all of it” guy like yourself, the one thing I take away from your videos is your calm demeanor and sense of balanced purpose. You don’t come across as a high stress guy about the work. Your tips have helped me enjoy my job a bit more-thank you!

That nail-blunting tip is genius! I’m as old-school as it gets but I’ve never heard that little trick before! 👍

50 years ago, I was taught to not caulk the bottom of the apron (the lower trim board), so that any moisture that built up behind it, could drain out. Remembering that condensation and osmotic pressure, due to the temperature differential will force moisture from the conditioned space out into the atmosphere.

Dear Ben: Over the past 3 months I gutted and rebuilt my kitchen to the studs. I followed your drywall, taping and mudding series and the finished product looks professional and great. Thank you for this information.

Killer tips! Being a painter, I will say one thing.. We never caulk the bottoms of window trim so that moisture has an exit. Awesome tips!!!

Love this guy....he is a combo of new and old school....great stuff.

Thank you for sharing the details of trimming and rain protection of the window exterior. Another great carpentry tutorial and way cool getting your son involved in carpentry at age 12 years 😀

Excellent tips! I have replaced many windows done this way. Some had a couple decades before I replaced them, some had a few years. I pay attention to what works and try to figure out why. I live in coastal New England and the seasonal temperature variation as well as humidity variation creates a lot of movement in your exterior cladding here. This movement in the cladding and the caulk shrinking as it dries and losing its elasticity with time kills caulk joints quickly. Taking what you have demonstrated a few steps farther, when you have the siding cut to install your trim, that is the time to scrape and sand the ends so you can SEAL the end grains with your primer so it can dry while you are doing other things and increase the adhesion of your caulk joint significantly. I would also employ back caulking along the ends of the siding to the sheathing before setting the outside corner in a bed of caulk making a gasket along the outer perimeter. Might be over kill for some areas but definitely helps with drafts and thermal draw if not keeping water out. Just a a few tips for anyone else that reads the comments like my self.

Just watched this video (a couple times actually). I'll be doing old school cedar trim with sills on two of my exterior bedroom windows. Just what I needed. Thanks!

Beautiful job brother....as a maintenance tech your videos help me a lot man! Thanks!

Thank you for taking the time to pass on your knowledge and experience your videos have helped me many times

Hey! Carpenter stuff. Nice. Back prime is essential with unprimed lumber. Got to remember to bevel bottom edges to reduce wicking Thanks for the video.

I knew all the tips ex ept where you pointed out using a shim to tool caulk in the pecker track. Never thought about that but makes good sense. Thanks for the video bud

I’m hanging out waiting on hurricane Ida to hit watching this- bout to find out if my home builder did all this! Great time to check for leaks 😁😅

Good lost tips. Love the cove ceiling. I have them in my 1940 house.

THANK YOU for your dad's blunting tip!!! And yeah-prenailing boards.

Absolutely Brilliant video!!

Thank You Ben.. Keep up the good work.

We were on fire...shout out from Osoyoos :) Cheers and keep up the good work.

That's the way to do it--and teach it! Well done!

I like, "do your best and caulk the rest." and your advice on blunting nails to prevent splitting.

Hey man, was at Lowe's the other day and picked up the Gator 120 grit drywall sanding sponge with CeraMax... it is some sort of ceramic sandpaper that resists clogging....best sponge I've ever used! It doesn't clog up at all! I got an 80 grit and 120 grit. I'm going to buy some more this week, I don't think I'll ever buy other sponges unless I'm getting an angled one.

This is nice, cool stuff. Thanks for sharing and explaining.

Thank You !! This is exactly what I was looking for!!!

I sure wish you could see the repairs we’ve done to the walls in our bedroom after watching your videos on installing drywall.

That dynaflex 230 is some awesome caulk.

Nice Work, keep up the good work. God Bless.

Those old Vancouver houses seem to have a lot of character. Nice trimming, caulking and paint job

Thanks for showing us around

I've been watching you for years and learned so much from your content... always appreciate when you upload Although I realized that I wasn't subscribed so I went ahead and fixed that. Subbed and turned on notifications. Keep on keeping on!

Great tutorial! i believe from experience the only outdoor caulk to use is mulco. It sticks and does not break down

I have learned so much from your channel

Lastly . . . I like this kind of video. What I was taught about painting - scrape and sand, then prime, then caulk, then prime the caulk, then top coat. The first primer seals the wood and keeps it from sucking up the caulk and also provides "tooth" for the caulk to adhere to. Then, after caulking, prime again, so that the texture is consistent. The caulk will have a different texture than the primer.

Bin der dun dat type of old carpenter. Wish vids like this would have been done 40 years ago so that tips like yours wouldn't have had to be learned the hard way! Agree with using Dynaflex 230. It's also good as a poor man's substitute for soundproofing cracks instead of Green Glue! Just one comment. I eschew the messy, often wide concave finger caulking look between the new window and trim. I make a clean caulk line using tape just like you and I do with sealing around counter tops except with wood trim, I only tape off the window. GK

I agree 💯% with tip #4. I've repaired so many homes where the wood looks good but on the edges/cuts where the wood was not painted it is rotten and a small repair turns into a big one because all the boards now need to be changed. $$

Hats off to Sir Joseph Whitworth the father of engineering, for teaching (without an engineering degree ) the British Navy that Blunt or flat tip projectiles penetrate straighter, truer and deeper than pointed. I.E. Wadcutter/Semi Wadcutter. And hats off to Vancouver Carpenter for teaching with self deprecating humor, (the sign of a true leader). Really, cheers from a Chicago Finish Carpenter for making education both palatable and hilarious. Thanks PS I’ve been known to be a jackass on occasion too. LOL

Hey Ben, I can detect smoke all the way down here in Olympia. Donkey tracks, haha! I learned to call them Charlie Olsens because the marks look like the letters C and O.

Good tips. New follower!

so many great tips

Thank you! Very helpful.

We always called donkey tracks rosebuds and would put a little water to the area it would swell out even

Looks like there are still a lot of termites on that house. I saw evidence on the new window……poop that falls onto your new work. It looks like tiny black sand and will make you cough like crazy if you breathe too much. Be safe. Thanks for the great video.

Thx, timely for me 👍

Knew all the tips except the saw cut for a drip edge. Well done.

Thanks Ben.

I love your hair

If you had a metal break you could break a custom piece of flashing to go up under the siding and over the top trim board. We have to do that all the time, and just throw a couple trim nails in the siding to grip the flashing as well.

Good video..

"That's a lot of caulk".... was waiting for you to say it. From just south of the border...

I wish you lived near me. You're hired.

Yeah, that was probably our smoke wafting up your way. Sorry about that. We weren't thrilled with it either and pretty much stayed inside as much as possible. (I'm in eastern Washington state -you know, the dry side. The Idaho panhandle also had its fair share of fires.) There was no escape from the smoke for a good while there. Thankfully the fires are out and the smoke has pretty much cleared. Hopefully we are finished with the wildfires this year as we begin the last days of summer and look toward heading into fall. ☺👍

Thanks!

I'm getting ready to primer/paint a replaced exterior window stool. The old one rotted and replaced with treated pine. I've primer / painted it every other year. Takes a lot of beating, but keeps pealing. Think I could use a putty knife and cover it with Dap paintable acrylic caulk + silicone? It says it is paintable in 30 minutes and is made for doors/windows. 100% waterproof and okay for interior or exterior.

You're cool dude. Subscribed. Primo

Sound knowledge!

Don’t use BIN outside, it’s extremely brittle and will fail outside. Zinsser peel stop or oil based would be best choices.

This drip cut is also used on outdoor stairs. Keep the bottom of the tread dry.

Donkey tracks is a better name! We call those "half moons" in New Zealand

Prenailing is something I often do but to avoid splitting the wood I drill holes first. Drill a hole the size of the nail and it will go through like butter. If you plan on recessing the nail for something nice like trim the hole can be even slightly wider than the nail. This makes tapping the head down in very easy. You don't have to bash the nail in and make a donkey track or gouge the wood with the tool to tap it in if the hole is predrilled and wider than the nail, the nail just goes straight down.

OMG yes, prime all the cuts, glad I'm not the only one!!!!!! As someone that repairs dry/wet rot, thats the number one failure

Paint all edges and cuts. Best trick I know

Hey love the videos! I've always wondered, do you offer something to customers in exchange for being "allowed" to film, or do you just explain to them that its part of what you do and tough luck?

Great video as always. Do you brake your flashing yourself? If so, a video showing how you do it would be great.

Donkey tracks, lol. That flashing turned up... yeah, I'm not sure I would turn it up on the ends, eventually swelling shrinking could cause it to separate and water will be happy to enter and do it's thing...

I don't know the codes in Canada but in the US you have to put Z - Metal on the top trim and have to make it a 1/4" longer on the sides so you can bend it over the ends and it goes on top of the house wrap.

Cool thanks

I always thought not to caulk the bottom so if water did get behind it would find a way on bottom

What is "rain screening" ? I have never heard that term before.

Have you tried Boral tru ext trim? It's really good

I’m curious as to why you chose to flash under the head trim instead of over the flash trim. I believe it would help protect the top of the window and the trim better and eliminate the reliance of caulk (only) on the top of the head trim. Great video keep up the good work.

It amazes me that nobody, like I never see it done ever . take the time to prime and paint their cuts on ext trim .

Thanks for another great video. Did you do a video on the drywall cove?

do your best, and caulk the rest! nice

Another tip is to crown your sill so if cups it cups up over retaining water (opposite as shown afaict)

Love the shrimp boat era Forrest Gump cosplay @3.54

Donkey Tracks are also called "Moons".

14 degrees is the magic number for your sloped sill

Any suggestions for the top corners of shake molding with 45 degree corners

I had issues with bin123 peeling after a year, Recommendations?

What about doing the 45 mitre trick on the ends of the bottom trim board ?

Do we have to paint once primed?

What big box window replacement would you recommend that doesn’t cost an arm And leg?

Can you do a video on that scaffolding setup?

I don't think that drip-edge is needed on a sloped cill - it's a detail for a flat bottomed cill. Water is not going to run back up a 5º slope, it's going to hang on that bottom edge and drip from there. And if you are going to make a cut in a place where water is going to collect at least make it big enough to ensure you get paint in it - make the groove at least a couple of blade widths wide..

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👍👍👍

Any chance you’ll be plastering a brick wall anytime soon? I have a brick wall in my house which I put plaster primer on today but I am gonna need some instructions for the actual plastering process. I know you Canadian/Mericans just do drywall’s normally but maybe you can find a wall to plaster and make a video on it? Either way, great channel you have👍🏾

How did you cut that 5 degree bevel to create the sloped sill?

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Do you have a similar video but on a brick home?

My granpa called donkey tracks - French Thumb Prints.

Not sure if anybody has some advice but I’m getting ready to replace some o rotted window sills, I think the frames are ok but my question is, some of the windows have been replaced with a “flush exterior sill, how would I make the exterior sill flush?

What are the 3 circles on the wall under the window sill?

I was taught while laying any caulk to "inject" it into the joints so it will fill in the voids and not just sit on the surface. More area for the caulk to bond will give it more strength.

The egde of the wood is like a sponge sucking up water, like the bottom of a Christmas tree.

Wondering if the smoke is from one of the fires north of Boundary Waters area?

We all know products like Quad and Solar Seal are a pain to work with but we also all know acrylic caulk is garbage for exteriors.

is 5 degree on the sill enough ? I heard 15