You can do it!

I appreciate that!

Ya the twist on my old trailer was terrible. It was a 6 inch drop from the front right to back left deck corners. There are fancy tongue jacks better suited but I’m on a budget. I prefer a project vs expensive projects.

Omg I can’t believe I never thought of that. It’s the only unsolved problem of that setup.

Appreciate the comment!

Thank you!

I’m glad you can benefit from 20+ years of evolution. Thanks for watching!

Glad you like them!

Glad you liked it!

Interesting. I didn’t Know Bed liner paint was available for diy. Any suggestions on brand?

​@armedanddangerousdiy6096 Herculiner is the big brand available at most hardware stores. They make a aerosol version most people say is easier to work with, I have only used the brush/roll on version...which is a pain, but pretty effective.

That’s what I have used, the roll-on version. It makes a very nice, thick and rubbery surface after 2-3 coats.

You are welcome!

Thank You!

It was the only way to make the wiring reliable. I road trip a lot with it and I don’t want police trouble. The whole concept is no tools. Some day I’m going to invent a no tools way to bolt the back trailer deck to the frame when you unfolded. Until then, the only thing you need to put that trailer together is a 9/16 socket everything else like the corner security latches are easy. I’m glad you like the video, it represents 20 years of trailer modifications by myself and improvements.

First I tried the tongue. It made the tongue too heavy to fold the trailer. Then I tried the picket fence but then you have no spare flat bedding. Then I just kept it loose but then it was in the trunk in the way. I finally settled on the under deck location as a happy medium. I’ve only used the spare once in 22 years. That was the trip I broke the leaf spring overloading it. To be fair an 18 year old rusty leaf spring from China didn’t have much of a chance. I want to figure out a traveler tube to hold the wrench and mount an old car spare jack to be complete. Take care bro!

Welcome aboard!

Good choice! Thank You!

So if you look at the instructions for the trailer, you are correct, that there are two more carriage bolts that are installed vertically through the two frames near the axle. They are virtually IMPOSSIBLE to install. So on a whim about 18 years ago, and decided not to put them in and see what happened. Nothing that’s what. I’ve never installed them since. My theory on that is the two carriage bolts by the fender that I showed in the video plus the hinges are enough to hold the rear deck in place. Plus if you look at the trailer design, as long as you properly load the trailer uniformly, with a slight positive bias towards the tongue, you’ll never have too much weight on the very back of the deck. And trust me, I’ve driven a garden tractor up loading ramps onto the deck without those two extra bolts, and nothing happened. I’ve been running without those two extra bolts for so long, I guess I’ve proved to myself they are not required. I intentionally did not mention that in the video because of the liability of me circumventing harbor freights design. Surely you can appreciate that. And yes run a ground wire to each light and use junction boxes. Rust and corrosion are the real enemy. The free wiring bundle you get with a light kit is too thing and the plastic cracks in the cold. When you upgrade in ten years buy some heavier gauge wire intended for automotive. Merry Christmas bud!

That’s a good idea!

On my old trailer I had the wheeled jack stand on the outside much closer to the receiver. With that setup only the wheel rolled when unfolding. Putting it in the middle moved it back. Frankly you could just buy a 4 wheel dolly for ten bucks from harbor freight and just rest the receiver on it instead. www.harborfreight.com/18-in-x-12-in-1000-lb-capacity-hardwood-dolly-58312.html

Thank You!

Glad you liked it. 4 inch clams. I just bought some inexpensive stainless chain and screws.

You’re welcome! They are 4 inch. I’ve bought them at Menards and tractor supply in the past. They are near the rope, chain, and ratchet straps typically. Thanks for watching!

Thanks for letting me know. I couldn't find 4" pins, but my local TSC sold 1/4" diameter square bale locking pins with 3.5" of working space, which did the trick for the trailer walls - except the left/right brackets forward of the axle. The pivot bracket for the tongue gets in the way there, but with a set of trailer corners the whole thing was stable enough for me to trust it driving 1,450 miles. To prevent movement/rattle, I recommend 3/8 diameter x 3.5" if you can find them. Amazon sells a SS a multipack 3/8 x 2.5", and I use these to hold the rear down trailer frame in place instead of the carriage bolts that came with the trailer itself since they're much easier to remove. Also recommend 1/2" x 2" for the folding tongue to make life a little easier when storing.

Only two of the 10 mods require welding. And you are right, that most people aren’t equipped to weld. However, there are other ways to achieve the same objective without a welder if you’re the creative type. Thank you for watching!

That’s a good idea. The main reason is I can’t put a hole bigger than 1/2” in the frame without compromising the integrity strength wise. If the taillight hung down it would interfere with the tilt function. It’s why the license plate folds up. You have me thinking now though. Expect a video in three months implementing a version of your idea. Thanks!

I hail from the motherland my friend

In the 23 years, I’ve owned a trailer, I’ve had one flat. That was because I overloaded it and broke the leaf springs. So in general, you are right that it sucks, but how often do you really get a flat?

@@armedanddangerousdiy6096 once would be enuff

🙄🤦​@@nickmandziak7702

Trust me, finding music that’s not copyrighted that I can use on KZfaq is harder than you think. The good music you hear on KZfaq cost a lot of money per year subscription fees. But thanks for the comment, I’m glad you like the video. Take care buddy.

The trailer deck, the flat part you can carry a load, is 4 feet wide and 8 feet long. If you include the tires and the tongue, the trailer is 6 feet wide and 12 1/2 feet long approximately.

Noted!

I had no idea. Do you know people like us, we just take the instructions and throw them in the trash without reading them as usual. I’ll flip it around, thanks for letting me know!

So sayeth our lord, Vince Lombardi in the glory years!

These days I flip the license plate before I unfold the deck so I don’t have to climb underneath

I get made fun of all the time for doing projects barefoot. I never much pay attention I guess