What are you talking about? It's normal for me.

@@takumifujiwara9072 Used to be directly below the video, now the apple version is far lower.

Initially it was 100% of videos I was on the comments were moved below the description, now most of the time it's moved back below the recommended videos at the bottom.

Wait you can watch youtube on your phone? That's a thing now? When did that happen?

@@sixoh_diesel5662 yeah, what do you think all those cops on the side of the road are doing all day?

why many trucks in australia have front extra bumper guards

Damn you reminded me of the bathurst 1000 kangaroo incidents. Poor things probably just tried to run away. Apparently lots of deers jump off bridges to death because they get scared of cars, too. Maybe it's a similar situation

In the Northern United States we have moose and elk. If you hit them you are probably going to die. For sure we avoid them.

@@burger1113 Central New York west of syracuse, the winter of 2018 winter I hit 3 deer. 1st one, no snow at all perfect conditions 8 O'clock at night, ran down the side of a hill head first into the drivers door of the suburban. I stopped to check it out, I got a few feet from it and it stood up shook its head, looked around to see where it was and walked off like nothing happened. The Second one, also no snow 12:30 am, Nissan Versa, was standing in the road (50mph in a 55 zone) in between the beginning and end of an S turn, I pulled off on to the shoulder as far as I could with out going over the enbankment to be clear of it (25), the deer turned back and leaped (15) hit its rear end on my passenger side headlight, wrecked my light, hood, and bumper cover, the deer got up and ran away. The third wasn't so lucky but did the least damage... (55) at night, cleared roads, 5 ft or higher snow banks, didn't have time to slow down, the deer leaped over the snow bank just as I was passing and her head connected with the bumper of the suburban. That was the only year I've hit anything, knock on wood.

@@raycar1165 wtf? Lol hope u had insurance for that kinda stuff

TRD just needs U.😏

That’s not a misconception, that’s science

@I Am Sekou Don't get me wrong, I love toyotas, but the trd decal always looks like turd in my peripheral vision. Just a joke, ya know. 🤗

Myth: TRD stickers don't make your Tacoma faster. Truth: each sticker adds 10 hp.

Only a Toyota would have to be *upgraded* to a turd.

The chassis on most 90s and 00s Ford or GM cars will not last that long, most junkyard engines run or could run.

Yup, I have some 80s Fords that I don't know or care what the mileage on them is. It doesn't matter, all that matters is condition. In regards to condition and mileage an overlooked factor is also what kind of mileage. Long highway miles are quite good for a car, short stop and go miles are bad. Some newer cars have engine hour meters, if you can access that it'll give a very good indicator of what kind of miles it had.

New England cars can have terminal rust by 150k, depending on how it was taken care of. Here it's usually the chassis crumbling that kills cars, rather than any sort of drivetrain failure

My mom and one friend have this mentality too.

My 2016 Toyota Tundra is currently at 230k. Oil change every 5k miles. Tranny flush every 50k. shes still purring strong

you are kidding, right? Or you have a death wish.

@@DavidCritchley401982 both

@@lordozi3113 lol

Well you certainly aren't preserving your life 😂

I've had people recount accidents to me and proudly tell me they just let go of the wheel and trusted it would avoid the telephone pole.

It's even more prevalent in the motorcycle world somehow where you hear so many motorcyclists say they had to "lay it down". Great, now you have neither braking nor directional control.

People saying that missed the "don't put the Lord to the test" part. Lol.

Camarada Caramel My drivers ed teacher said accidents are not accidents. There are no accidents just collisions.

The only type of crash i'd classify as an "accident" is if a part of the car fails resulting in an immediate loss of control and you hit something. Even that though can be attributed to negligence on somebodys part wether thats you for not doing any maintnence or the engineer group that made that part shitty in the first place.

fredy gump to be fair the being from Minnesota thing does have a bit of truth to it because after the first snowfall we normally collect ourselves and remember how to drive. You see southern cities getting half an inch of snow and they’re all on the side of the road or can’t make it up a hill. Learning to drive here during the winter for my behind the wheel classes and pushing countless cars or even metro buses that get suck outside of my house gives me what I feel might be a slightly better understanding of winter driving.

@@Mac-tw3zu To be fair, snow in Minnesota is not the same as snow farther south. Snow is far more manageable when everythings stays frozen. Winter conditions are way more dangerous in places that average around freezing...roads freeze and thaw on a daily basis, leaving ice patches everywhere. Sometimes I work in Iowa or Missouri in winter, and the freezing rain is brutal! And they get a lot of it. The glare on the wet/ icy roads is especially bad because the sun is low... And it gets darker sooner, because there is no snow to reflect light.

Colorado is the same. Colorado "natives" love to blame non-natives. Natives suck at driving in snow, also.

True. His "myth" about ABS is also not true. Cause you know abs makes breaking distance shorter and provides the ability to control your car during breaking.

@@svyatoslavboykiv398 You can stop quick without ABS, just be sure you know when your wheels are locked up. (might be hard.)

Depends on transmission.

@@snek9353 Would it matter in modern cars? The reason it's false is because the car needs to use fuel to keep the engine idling whereas leaving it in gear the car will stop fuel flowing completely. I don't know the inner workings of an auto in this situation but I'd say that they will either do the same as a manual, where the wheels turning will turn the engine over without the need for fuel to be injected so will save fuel compared to being in neutral, or letting off the throttle will effectively put it into neutral (very roughly speaking) which will neither save or use more fuel than being in neutral, so the myth is still a myth regardless of what transmission the car has, as putting it into neutral will either actually use more fuel or not make a difference, opposed to saving fuel which is what the statement claims.

@@markwright3161 Comes from the time of carburetors, where the idle jet would be open regardless. If you throw it in neutral you remove the engine braking, thus rolling faster/longer while still consuming the same ammount of fuel. The myths from the 60s tend to stick because people usually know jack shit about the cars they drive🙃

@@markwright3161 Yes, no, kinda.... First DO NOT ever do it in a car with an automatic transmission. The transmission has a pump that is turned by the engine and oil passages that only flow oil in gear. Putting an auto in neutral while moving on a regular bases will damage it. This is why my answer is "depends on transmission" However with a manual putting it in neutral will save fuel. Modern engines actually idle a lot more efficiently then older engines. They use thinner oil, run at higher temps, have more efficient accessories, burn fuel more efficiently, etc. Secondly you're conserving energy not just fuel, a very large chunk of that energy is your momentum. If you're engine braking you're using up your momentum to turn the engine faster then it needs to go. Even if you have an engine that will use zero fuel while engine braking(very rare) you may then need to expend more fuel to get back that momentum.

Unlike #10, that one actually is illegal when going downhill (in CA at least).

when the 13yo who never sat behind a wheel hears that the new GTR isnt offered in a manual transmission

He speak heresy, manuals are always better than automatics. . . and stickers add 20+ hp per square inch not 10. ;p

Nah just typical trolls

Some cars don't need a manual option, others I really wish were more available with one. It would be nice if you could get a modern full-size pickup with a modern 6-speed transmission more easily. 3-series BMWs are super fun to fling around and are really tamed by an automatic. Most low-end commuter cars do still have a manual option in North America but it is being replaced by the CVT which is outright bad. On the other hand high-horsepower cars with robust and precise automatics make it much easier to use that power. And larger numbers of gears available in cars like Audis give better acceleration for a lower amount of available power. It also wouldn't make any sense to have work vans manual here anymore , as they are usually driven by tired busy people in traffic for a full workday (I was given a manual van as a service truck years back and when it was retired for an automatic van I was pretty thankful).

@@SorryMcMorrow all cars need a manual option. Better mpg, a significantly higher articulation of power and control, and it's more reliable (the number of times i wish i could have push started a damn auto -_-). The only problem is that modern manuals suck. At least my accord does, clutch is so damn stiff no wonder nobody wants a new manual.

Do a Tesla model 3

This needs to happen after the claim in this vid! I want to see how an insta-torque 2 tonne car does.

I want to see a Nissan Leaf rallying

@@ianholmquist8492 Would love to see this, but its too fragile. Tesla's are known for their control arms to snap in normal driving, its almost guaranteed to happen on a rally course.

@@jordanbell4420 Lol i did not know that. It might hold together for a lap or two. It would definitely make it interesting

Yes, that's a terrible myth I've heard from many! Buying a brand new car is the true waste of money. Buying a lightly to moderately used car allows some other chump to take the losses via depreciation and thus you maintain more of the money you've invested into it as equity. Case in point, a brand new fully loaded 500 Abarth runs nearly $30,000. I bought mine used with 19,000 miles on it and paid 1/3 the price! Now, there is such a thing as nuance, and often times the people who say used cars are a waste of money are those who expect to buy a high mileage used car for a couple thousand dollars and have little to no repair and maintenance costs. This is just unrealistic.

@@Tamarocker88 I know some people that say the same thing as Armour Shooters mom, but I totally agree with you. I've been driving cars for decades, and I don't think I'll ever buy another new car again. Buying used (and learning to wrench) has allowed me to do a lot of things I never could have done if I got trapped into the new car mentality. Racing, owning dozens of sports cars of all types, and meeting a lot of great people are just some off the top of my head. I'm on my third Porsche now (a 911TT) and I am far from a wealthy man. And, as you said, as long as you don't buy something like a 130,000 mile A4 at the outside of your budget just because you want to be seen in an Audi, then you should be in good shape. PS- Hope you are enjoying the Abarth, I was considering one as the base of a rally build last year, and it was fun to test drive.

@@gregh3607 Nice, glad to hear you've been able to have fun driving a lot of cars. It's so satisfying to handle maintenance and modifications on a vehicle. That 911TT must be a blast! I'm absolutely enjoying my Abarth, even with the variety of issues I previously had with it (every bit of it including a brand new turbo was covered under the extended warranty I bought for $1,000 :D ). The sound of the exhaust and its afterfires always bring a shit-eating grin to my face.

Wyatt (team o'neil) did a video a while back about finding a good "performance" used car, it was great, excellent advice and on point! Check it out before you commit to a car!

Actually, new cars are definitively a waste of money. Some people are okay with paying for something that they are the first owners of or for a warranty, but it doesn't change the fact that they're overpaying. Coming from a person who has bought both used and new many, many times.

I'd say ignorance, carelessness, and/or reckless driving.

You won't know your in another persons car crash until their ignorance makes it unavoidable for you to join in their event.

So your dad that has no idea what rev matching is.

@@AWDfreak what a pleb right????

@@AWDfreak but heel toeing speeds you up. I'm imagining him pumping the clutch 50 times haha

@@janeblogs324 Heel-toe downshifting is rev matching while braking, it does not speed up the vehicle. Rev matching, as the name implies, is the act of matching the RPM speed with the next intended lower gear to be selected. Since it minimizes or eliminates that difference between the engine RPM with the vehicle speed, it actually reduces wear on the clutch.

@@AWDfreak think about what you and i wrote. My argument is if you dump the clutch and force the engine to increase rpm you get more friction (you can even lock the tyres up) Very clearly this slows you down quicker.

Dude, a rally model X would be sick

Volksgagen I.D.R pikes peak hillclimb (eletric car) kzfaq.info/get/bejne/a8lioJiZzc6Ze6s.html

Not rally but a guy did some laps with a model 3 at nürnburgring.

2022 wrc will become hybrid powered

In an ideal world where people didn't tailgate and maintained highway speeds per posted speed limits, we'd all be able to brake for animals and stay in control. Sadly, there's a lot of idiots out there and they're allowed to drive.

@@Tamarocker88 It's not the speed limit that matters. It's about driving the appropriate speed for the given situation.

@@imnotusingmyrealname4566 It is, in part, about the speed limit. Speed limits are an indication of appropriate speed for the given situation. When people are tailgating at speeds above the speed limit (as is often the case), they are not driving the appropriate speed for the given situation. Whether they're speeding or not, most people don't leave sufficient space to brake in emergency scenarios. It is only exacerbated by driving at excess speeds. Thanks for supporting my point!

@@Tamarocker88 Wait was the last sentence you calling me a speeding tailgater or did you acknowledge that it's situational and your comment was just saying that speed limits are (mostly) the appropriate speed for the situation?

No clutch pedal, not a manual

@@Shakshuka69 nobody said they are manuals. Just not automatics. You can call em semi automatics. Or automatic manuals.

@@Shakshuka69 Sequentials can have a clutch pedal.

@@yeruschmift8422 I know. Those are manual. Not all manuals are H pattern. But if it doesn't have a clutch pedal, it's not a manual.

@@Shakshuka69 How is it not a manual? You're still manually changing the gears, Autos do the shifting for you, Sequentials still require the drivers input to change gears. Maybe this could be a video idea?

There is the hearsay effect to consider. You might be one of those who have the experience and know how to react according to context. But there are young, inexperienced people that just believe everything they see or hear on the internet that will actually plow trough living things instead of inanimate objects.

@@Dislob the "hit the deer" in our training means more often than not you don't swerve to miss most animals in the road. These are two lane highways with a foot or two of shoulder. At 55 mph a deer jumps in the road and you get to it and it's in middle of the road you don't have a lot of room to maneuver around a deer and I've seen more people get hurt going in the ditch then hitting the deer. Just my observation of 47 years on Earth with driving in all types of weather and in every state.

@Eric Michel you just commented my thoughts. I'm sure this is in the permit book and is talked about in driver education. It's definitely in the CDL permit book. "Hit the animal" is not a myth, and doesn't make those preaching it heartless. I've hit A LOT of animals as a truck driver over the years and it tugs my heart every time. I always hope it was clean and quick without suffering. I won't put an animal over human life. This guy needs context

Or endurance racing

Or when driving a FWD and wanting to keep the diff locked up

Akuna*

What is engine braking is it when you rev match or down shift?

Also is it bad for your car? I have AWD Subaru

I thought it came from regions where the animal is often much smaller and specifically swerving will result in a loss of control and potentially more significant damage than hitting the animal, and hitting the animal is evidence to the insurer that it was an animal that caused a crash instead of 'avoiding' an animal caused a crash. If you swerve a rabbit and hit a wall or a tree, not only will the damage be much worse but your insurer will fully blame you for it, because from their perspective you lost control and crashed, so are no different to them than a driver exceeding their ability via other means and crashing, whereas if you hit the animal, like a badger or small deer, instead, then the insurer cannot say you're at fault, at least not fully, if you braked on first sight and so on. Obviously if it's a moose the don't hit it, and if you're driving in an area where they're common have a dashcam, so if you swerve to avoid hitting one and wreck your car in the process by going off the road, then you at least have the evidence to show the insurer that you did it to not be killed but it crushing the roof in on top of you. This is the way I'd tell it for where I live, where there are no moose' or other large animals that will kill you if you hit them in a car. Do all you can to avoid hitting them by only braking in a straight line (or as straight a path as can be managed if you're on a corner) to not unsettle the car and reduce your ability to scrub off speed before impact (where inevitable). If you have the skill to swerve, having been through a course on emergency avoidance driving techniques or similar, then you can avoid hitting it at all, but I'd give this advice to anyone who hasn't went through, what is here in the UK, advanced training, for avoiding sudden hazards. I'd say the same for (a very specific situation in this case) when a car pulls out of a junction on your side of the road in front of you (left here in the UK). Brake hard but don't swerve unless you're sure you can do so without hitting on coming traffic or damaging your car in any other way. If you're going to hit anything, hit the car that caused the problem. I've seen it too often on dashcam compilations where this has happened and the dashcammer has swerved and hit someone else and the person who caused the reaction drives off damage and charge free, while the dashcammer is then fully to blame for the resultant collision (from swerving) as they hit someone else who was doing nothing wrong. Hit a car that failed to giveway at a junction vs hitting a car head on with you being on the wrong side of the road to do so, pretty clear whic one your insurer will jump to defend you in (or rather jump to defend their need to pay out for damages).

Here in the PNW we only have bears, cariboo , Canada geese and moose.

I live in sweden. Don't try that around here. It'll only be the difference of the moose crushing your face from the front or from above as it falls over your car.

@@markwright3161 For the most part that's exactly why it's still said today. Proof of insurance. Now if you don't have comprehensive insurance, then avoid the animal as safely as possible. If you do though, I still say try to avoid it, but if you can't safely do so without crashing your car, then hit the animal and insurance will cover it.

@Shabbir Khambatti I drive everything from a 400,000lb heavy haul to 2000lb racecars and also bikes lol. But I have hit many of a deer, and a large bear once. $4000 of damage that insurance covers is better than out of pocket costs of the load damage. Also if you were to swerve, good chance of rolling over and that goes from a claim to a license ending accident, I've seen it alot. I speak completely from experience! Mainly the deer is just going to take out the grille and lights, then go right under

This is me as well.

Yes, ABS exists for the average driver so that if they panic and lay on the brakes while simultanously giving heavy steering input, the car can try to help them stay in control and stop rather than losing control and rolling the car or spinning out etc... Even in a straight line on dry pavement with a skilled driver, ABS is likely to lead to a longer stopping distance.

Accidents usually don't happen to the average driver. They happen when you are tired, sick, stressed or unfamilliar. And in that situation, on a normal street surface, and surprised by the accident I would bet in the ABS every time.

@@kilianortmann9979 Yes, I think context is key, but that often gets lost in internet discussions.

Drivers were never told to accellerate into a large animal. Are you insane?

It also comes from some classes and providers of insurance in the USA. If you hit a deer in the roadway, claims generally fall under comprehensive coverage (act of god type stuff). Whereas if you swerve to miss an animal and hit some other object, then you are seen to have caused the crash, and claims are under collision coverage. The latter will usually come with higher deductibles, surcharges, and premium increases. Ultimately it's still no reason to mash the gas, or for that matter not a reason to pay attention to your surroundings, and practice safe accident avoidance.

If an animal runs onto the road, I personally just slam the brakes. I live in an rural part of germany with many forests and fields. You only have a split second of reaction time if a deer runs across the road and trying to avoid the collision by steering seems dangerous to me

I'm pretty sure it's about skid and rollover risk, combined with the fact that pretty much no "normal" driver can catch the second oscillation/fishtail of the rear of the car, when swinging back into our own lane - unless practiced before.

@@ianholmquist8492 If a deer or elk is in or near the road I often accelerate. it tends to make them move out of the road instead of in or stand still. At times I think they're playing chicken to screw with us and show off for their buddies. But in reality the noise and change of speed is making them move.

Can't exactly expect stupid people to admit their stupidity and change their ways...

@@Tamarocker88 very true

Why, I don't mind hitting the brakes for a small animal, as long as the cars behind aren't anywhere near to make it a hazard.

I can definitely understand flip flops not being allowed. But outlawing driving barefoot is a bit silly.

Same in Australia

@@ianholmquist8492 Barefoot driving is the best.

I keep a set of sandals that I can throw on quick in case a cop doesn't know the law. It's better to not have them question me.

We've got over a century of practical motoring experience that shows spinning the tires is in most cases the best way to make things worse. The idea that you can "dig down to where the traction is" might be ok when there's two inches of fresh snow, and no ice under it, or it rained 20 minutes ago and there's a millimeter of mud on the surface of a dirty road. If you're driving on sand, or on old snow, or it's been raining all day and you need to pass over a dirt road, spinning the wheels is literally the stupidest possible thing you could do.

Yep, it's actually once every drive

Well I usually just buy the synthetic M-Performance blinker fluid which lasts half a week. It does make my car quicker since it's lighter tho...😏

Right up there with "I have AWD so I don't need snow tires"

@@Teamoneilrally just show them this video kzfaq.info/get/bejne/ibqRq8ye0Me1qKM.html

@@Teamoneilrally Or "my new car/truck is so much more efficient" (when the old one had grippy tires, but the new one has highway biased tires).

I think more people have overheated both manual transmissions and axles then realize. An auto transmission is more likely to have a temp sensor and show immediate symptoms of being overheated. But manuals and axles do overheat rather often, they just don't show it until they fail. I've personally burnt up one manual and two axles pushing them too hard. Nothing really a driver can do for a axle at the moment, but a transmission if towing heavy should ideally be run in the direct gear as much as possible, usually 4th. Personally I find my modern AWD system quite predictable, but to be fair it's rather unique as it's rear bias and never pulls power from the rear.

If you're needing a vehicle for towing duty you can add trans coolers for autos.

@@snek9353 That's true that auto's at least have a temp sensor. Axles would be the same either way except they probably don't overheat until after the trans does. My main issue with autos is the torque converter not locking up especially in 1st gear. The brand new ones claim they will lock in first but I overheated an Aliison in a 2017 GMC 3500 Duramax because I was pulling 18k pounds up a 15%-20% (depending on the section) grade with tight turns so I couldn't get out of first gear. A manual wouldn't have overheated there. The direct gear is typically the easiest on the manual trans. Autos also greatly reduce shock on the drivetrain because of the torque converter, which can be a big bonus. On my channel I test a lot of AWD systems and most are predictable, but sometimes even the ones that I think I understand will catch me off guard.

@@bn880 and you can add torque converter lock switches to help as well. You can add trans oil coolers to manuals also and temp sensors if you'd like. The new automatics are great and better in most situations. There are still a few things than manuals do better though.

@@EngineAdventures Can't really say much on the Allison, I don't know them, but yes it should have locked. In my automatic tow rig I have an aftermarket computer controlling my transmission where I can command lockup in first, on decel, etc. I'm a big fan. Axles are more prone to overheating then manual transmissions. Really the heat generated is due to the oil sheer, and the higher the load and ratio(numerically) the more the oil sheer. Axles are always at their fixed low ratio, typically have less oil volume, and are almost always in iron cases with less cooling then an aluminum housed transmission.

Why? It's not any harder to left foot brake with a manual than it is with an auto.

Ian Holmquist unless you are trying to brake and downshift at the same time, for example if you want to come to a stop it slow down, then left foot braking would be impossible

@@gabetaylor7922 You just have to switch techniques when you go to downshift. When you go for your clutch just use the heel-toe method with your right foot. Maintain braking with your right toe and blip the throttle with your heel. Driving is a collection of many skills that you can use in different situations, one skill that you have in your arsenal such as left foot braking or heel-and-toe cannot necessarily be used 100 percent of the time.

@@gabetaylor7922 why would you left foot brake when you can heel toe?

@@Shakshuka69 this video explains why you can use both. Go to 4 minutes and 15 seconds and he says that very thing kzfaq.info/get/bejne/hpqVnaVoudamdmQ.html

Thomas Henderson Hahaha I’ve never heard of that but I’m not surprised. But tell that to my tires after I’ve driven down a gravel road.

I wonder if driving down rumble strips for an extended time would cause any form of harm. It would obviously take a far longer distance than anyone would willingly drive on them, but I'm curious nonetheless...

@@Tamarocker88 My guess is that it would beat up your suspension a whole lot more than some rubber tires

Or you could shake a wheel weight off. I've had them fall off pulling out of the tire shop after getting my snow tires taken off. So I guess it depends on who puts them on.

The biggest reason is debris can be trapped in the rumbles. Maybe not them alone but stuff that could be contained in them.

Walter Röhrl is probably a good example on foot control :D

Well, you can not heel toe downshift with all the cars, because the pedals might be designed so badly that it is absolutely impossible

Dude I hope all peopple brake checked tailgaters, then peopple would hopefully stop tailgating, but since most do tailgate it's not gonna happen. Someone tailgating me, aspecially at high speed, is a direct danger to my health or even life, sure- I might not have to brake hard, but if I were to, guess what's going to happen...

​@@piciu256 Yes, that's why tailgating is dangerous. Doesn't give you the right to intentionally *make* that happen. Tap your brake pedal a couple times just enough to turn your lights on. 4 in 5 will back off.

Unfortunately without a camera to prove it if you hit somebody 99% of the time it's your fault

@@siosilvar Just wash your windshield and let all that dirty water splash back onto the car behind you and they will get upset and back off

@@thecloneguyz I prefer to use the signal devices that every vehicle is equipped with, and not make any situation more dangerous than it already is. I don't see why this is hard to understand.

Right, but it started as a wrong idea and it still is.

Not 100% true, at higher speeds there are many passenger cars that can't activate the ABS in the front with grippy performance tyres.

Find a big open flat empty area, get to a speed your comfortable with, then slam the brakes and lock up intentionally, and let off when you lock up. you'll learn the feeling and will be able to predict when the tires will lock

I think there he's mostly trying to say that a good auto can function a lot like an auto, not that it is. Listen to what he says at 5:43.

Yeah, sequentials suck.

Try adding some sand bags in the trunk next winter, the reason the front wheels are doing all the work is the weight of the engine is right on top of them. Also what kind of tires your using makes a big difference. In case your not familiar with team o'neil they have some great videos about choosing a winter tire. P.S. Hoon responsibly, on private property.

Better car?

@@raycar1165 LOL

I would add sand bags, but it would increase the overall weight of the vehicle and increase stopping distance. Although adding weight in the rear would make the car over steer more effectively, it wouldn't make straight line braking any more effective in the snow. The major problem that I have with this vehicle is that when the ABS is disabled, the front wheels almost instantly lock. Adding insult to injury, the overall feedback in this vehicle from the braking system is almost non existent. I was thinking of adding an adjustable valve to control the brake bias. Currently, I have been practicing with the ABS turned on and am using the foot operated E-brake to get the car to rotate. This car is pretty fun to drive for a heavy car with an automatic, but I bought it primarily to rent it on Turo. As for having a better car, I do have an 08 Chevy Cobalt in the works. It has a hand brake and a manual transmission. Should be a lot more fun in the snow. Just waiting on the MS3 kit so I can get the engine running properly. It's got ZZP sway bars, light weight flywheel, Prothane front suspension bushings and motor mounts, and EBC front brakes. The last time that I drove it, it was much more balanced than in stock form. I still suspect that I will have to adjust the brake bias in that car eventually as well. I was just wondering if anyone knew of a solution to the terrible stock brake bias that plagues modern vehicles. Oh yeah, tires. I have a set of Federal Himalaya studded tires on 17" steelys for the winter and Toyo Proxes on the stock 19" wheels for the summer. The cobalt is currently running Nokian Hakkapeliitta R3 for winter and Sumitomo HTR A/S P02 for summer on the stock 15" steelys.

Not trying to sound hostile or all knowing, keep that in mind. Adding sandbags for weight is going to balance out the car... a little bit. One bag is around 40lbs I think, so three people would be like driving with a passenger. Also when you get stuck you can rip one open and use it to get grip. Using the parking brake to drift is asking for trouble. By "moves heavily to the front wheels" do you mean the car comes to a stop when your trying to drift. You said it came stock with 19's so if that's right it's an SR? That model has an engine brake I don't know how turning off the abs would effect that but it maybe part of your problem. On the cobalt... needs a head gasket right?... Over heated and leaks antifreeze everywhere? If you want to rent the maxima fine but who's going to want to drive it when its beat to crap. Save it for summer. Buy a Volvo. Scrap the cobalt.