i dont mean to be offtopic but does anyone know of a trick to log back into an Instagram account? I somehow lost the password. I appreciate any tricks you can offer me.

@Tyler Angelo instablaster =)

Thanks Wendy. The principals of loading are much the same for any camera, but there's always some lever or button ready to trick you! We look forward to meeting you when you have time

Glad it helped - 120 cameras take some getting used to!

Glad it was useful :)

Perhaps others will have a better idea, because at the lab we don't know how old the film is when it arrives. I don't think Shanghai are the only film that has had that problem - after a number of years the emulsion is affected by the backing paper inks leaching across. Stick to fresh film generally if you want top results

Good question Sean. The film length is alays the same, but the format of the camera and how big its negative, dictates how many shots you can fit on the film. A "645" camera has smaller negs so can fit either 15 or 16 frames, a 6x6 like the Hasselblad can fit 12, and something like a Mamiya 67 will fit 10. Bigger frame size = less exposures

The pentax 645 gave 15 per roll of 120.The 645 N gave the option of 15 or 16 per roll.

The video shows how the film is loaded onto the 'take-up' spool. When the film is finished it all ends up on that spool, so it is not rewound like a 35mm. You take the completed roll out, leaving an empty spool ready for your next film.

@@thedarkroomcheltenham9032 brilliant. Thank you.

That's a good question. The f-stop and shutter speed are transferable, so you could take a meter reading of 125th @f4 on the Spotmatic and it would produce the same exposure on the Yashica. ( apologies if this reply appears twice, but YT lost my earlier one )

The Darkroom UK sorry for responding late I haven’t been notified. Thank you very much for your response! I appreciate it

The size of the print is dictated by the format of the camera, so if it's 6x6 format like a Hasselblad, then you'll normally have square prints. If it's 6x7 format then your prints would be based on that shape - like 5x6 or 5x7 size prints. Your lab may print them with slight image crops to fit standard print sizes so ask them how they do things in advance.

@@thedarkroomukltd7541 Great, thanks so much for replying - for some reason I just don't think I've seen a 6x6 medium format print before! Thanks again for the great video and for replying.

There are many designs of 120 cameras, but all of them rely on lining up the arrows with a mark on the film 'plate' perhaps the paint on yours has worn off? Many years ago I made the same mistake with a Hassleblad and lost the first couple of frames as a result, so even the top of the range cameras are very basic in that way. As a suggestion, try looking up your camera make on the web for guidance and this site may be of help: www.butkus.org/chinon/

Aligning the arrows on the film paper leader with some index mark in the camera back is how you set most 120 cameras so that the camera lines up the film for its exposures. However, there are exceptions. On very old and less costly cameras, there is a red filtered window in the camera back through which exposure numbers appear as you advance the film; for these cameras, advancing the film properly is all on you. Many Rolleflex TLRs thread the paper leader through two rollers; without any alignment to start. As you advance to the first film frame, these rollers sense the beginning of the film and automatically index the exposure counter. Finally, there is a series of 645 cameras from Fuji which have a sensor in the camera back which senses the beginning of the film as the leader is first advanced, then indexes the film advance mechanism to properly place each film frame. Conclusion: Each camera aligns the film for advancement through the camera by a slightly different means. You need to review the camera manual for the "how to" or review with someone who knows how the camera works.

Good point! In fact my first-ever camera was one of those, so thanks for pointing that out.

Update: It occurred to me that maybe I just didn't advance the film as much as I thought I did so I decided to crank it a few more times, accepting the fact that I may have wasted this roll. If nothing else, it served as a learning experience and I can keep the wasted roll as a practice roll for the ikoflex I bought. But as it turns out, it just wasn't advanced enough. A few more turns showed a "1" in the counter window. All is good. However, the lenses seem to be uncelebrated. The negatives showed the focus being a little behind my subject. knowing htis was a cheap Ricohflex and not worth servicing, I recently bought a Zeiss Ikoflex to replace it. Much better build quality, much better lens and better taken care of, as it is in mint condition. I can't wait for it to arrive (it's coming from Poland). Thanks for everyone's help!

Ooo camera repairs are outside my paygrade! In the old days you could check by putting a sheet of tracing paper over the film plane and looking at the projected image, but that's a pretty crude check and difficult to adjust without the right equipment. Good luck with the old cameras though - they are good fun

Maybe the designer was left handed?! The principles are the same though

It's an Agfa Isolette V , I'm trying to study up on how to use it; your video was a great start!

Glad to help. If you've not found it already, this site may have some info on the Isolette www.butkus.org/chinon/

Thank you very much! I was able to print the entire original owners manual from 1950.

Excellent! It's a great resource - have fun with the camera :)