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Honestly this is probably the first "pro tips" video I've seen where the tips aren't all super basic. Really good video!

Using one image and separating the rgb is such a good way to add more details with less work and less data. I wish I would've thought of that earlier.

One of the best 3D tips videos I've ever seen, quick, advanced and very insightful, great stuff!

Some comments: 1) If you make the sun have a bigger angular diameter, this is something that only happens through clouds or mist, so also reduce the sun power. If the idea is to make the sun more interesting, I suggest adding something in front of it to cast shadows into the scene; trees, street lights, curtains, and so on. 2) Using sun lamps instead of Nishita sun, you can separate sun & sky into different Light Groups. I also separate interior lights of different purposes into different light groups. Downside is you have to tweak the values and color for the sun lamps to match sun from Nishita Sun & Sky. This allows far greater flexibility in post compared to having to re-render. 3) I have no idea why anyone would desaturate Nishita Sun & Sky, these two components have vastly different tonalities you want to keep, especially that warm low sun and/or very blue overcast (if white balanced for an indoor shot). 4) Don't say "use 3600K lights", it's better to lookup the luminaire and what practices are used in the region. Here typical indoor "warm lighting" starts at 2700K which is a bit on the warm side compared to other places, up to 3000K. 2500K also exist but are typically found to be too warm. Used in bedrooms and living rooms. 3000K-3400K (kitchens) for more balanced warmth, and 3600K-4000K (kitchens, bathrooms) for more "neutral" colors, even if those temperatures are still warmer than actual neutral (daylight) of around 5500K-6500K. Upper limit should be 4000K-5000K, and have limited use like garages. I'm even staying away from daylight balanced lights in offices (which is what I do); they may be "more realistic" but I prefer "more pleasing". Yes, 2700K will obviously tint the image "horrifically", that's why you should render out a "white patch", measure its color, and put the RGB values into CM curves RGB white point. Or in post, but I prefer seeing the result directly in preview. I'll use a slightly desaturated version as I prefer to keep some warmth in there. This will neutralize this "horrific" color cast from the light, but at the same time shift the outside Nishita Sun & Sky more towards cooler tones. There is nothing "wrong" with choosing to neutralize all color cast. It may absolutely be what you're going for, and you may think it improves the image quality. But it has nothing to do with "realism". This sterile look in interior renderings is just something I'm not a big fan of personally. I definitely prefer warm and inviting colors possibly in combination with blue hour exterior to really contrast those colors. But hey, I have a photographer background, so I have my biases for sure 😄 5) Use lens shift where appropriate. But also don't overdo it. Looking down from 2nd floor or even higher to the 1st floor will look super wacky relying on lens shift. If the tilt gets extreme, it's better to rely on actual tilt than lens shift. For top down views, don't forget you can get away with some horizontal lens shift too - to avoid that pesky wall showing up in contour only. 6) On area lamp shapes. Be aware of what the spread function do; it reduces to zero rather than some customizeable level, which means at some angle it will fade to black. It may be better to use two lamps and instance those around as a collection; one strong and focused one and another weaker but unfocused, and/or in combination with strength controls for camera/single glossy rays to control aliasing stepping. Unless barn doors are used, the strong translucent surface will be visible from "anywhere" even if the light is focused. I'm really not a fan on how spread is implemented in Blender, or how easily sampled tube lights are still missing. But hey, at least there's been some progress, so... 7) For "thin glass", approach is good enough, although I use power 5 add 0.05 which is remarkably close to fresnel 1.55. The important part here is to *not* use fresnel unless you know how to deal with backfacing IORs. What should be mentioned is *where* to use thin glass. For windows I typically use just a big plane in the wall I cover up with window frames and call it a day. There are cases when you *do* want solid glass panes, and I sometimes use them on office divisors (if I can see the edge somewhere - typically on the doors) and always on glass railings (where I can always see the edge). If you *need* refraction roughness on "thin glass", you can use refraction instead of transparency using geometry/incoming as the normal. This will make the glass opaque though, so you'll need to add the fake fresnel shadow trick separately. If more realistic glass is needed, use the glass shader instead or a manually setup glass, and use path guiding to help the shadows instead of relying on tricks. Faking it is something I do pretty much all the time, but it's good advice to be aware of the limitations. Your problem with fresnel comes from not using 1/IOR and IOR using geometry/backfacing to switch between them. But yeah, faking it using layer weight -> curve/power add makes no visual difference, and no customer would ever comment on it. But faking it on solid geometry isn't always that easy, especially if you can see the edge. Glass panes are in real life never 100% aligned to each other. So I often assign some random color per pane (i.e. using snapped collapsed UV) and run it through a very weak normal map set to object space. I do the same to floor tiles and wooden floor boards etc. 8) Separate RGB. Actually I use heaps of derivatives; Separate RGB/R,G,B, Separate HSV/H,S,V, and Separate HSL/S,L (Hue is same as in HSV, S and L are different). Then also Log HSV(SV), Log HSV(VS), Log HSL(SL), and Log HSL(LS). Depending on contained range, the Logs will have to be normalized to new usable ranges, or even scrapped. So I use similar techniques A LOT. However, this has nothing to do with reality, at all, even if it's very convenient and memory effective. Nothing suggests the quality of polish (roughness) or bump/normals or specular levels are related to the materials albedo value. They may provide adequate and interesting variation doing magic to the output compared to not using them, but are completely unrealistic in most cases. 9) For clamping, I always deactivate this by setting them both to 0, at least initially. Denoiser can handle fireflies much better now. If fireflies can't be handled by tweaking something else that might be out of whack, then I might start fiddling around with clamping. 10) Well I render on CPU professionally (office spaces, so not to the same level of quality required), so no optix for me 😄

This video was great!! I've watched many Blender tutorials even though I'm quite familiar with the program, and you are the only one to mention the double sun technique that's quite common professionally but rarely seen in tutorials, and I also learned quite a bit about render settings, great job!

This was really good. I especially like the tip about the thin glass shader, but all were great tips.

This video is a fricken gem. I thought about using color channels like that before, but I had no idea it could work so well! Bonus is that you can use it on any material, no extra maps needed if you don't have them.

This just became my favourite Blender Tutorial/Top Tips. Really insightful!!

I literally refer to a different part of this video every day for blender work. I really appreciate you putting this together!!!

never seen this glass setting. I love it, thank you!

I've seen dozens of "architectural glass" shaders over the years and nobody ever truly explains exactly what is going on and what makes one better than the other. I prefer the ones that do everything via the light path node so I don't have to remember to go into every glass object and and uncheck ray visibility options.

The clear glass tip is amazing! I've tried multiple techniques and none came out the way I wanted until this. Everything in here is useful.

Chocofur is the most under-rated veteran blender pros on KZfaq. Learnt a lot from you sir 🙌

Blew my mind with the color channel fits all setup, great stuff!!!

This is one of the best tips videos I've ever seen. Absolutely amazing.

OMG, thanks a million! Great tips! I'm a newbie, but already understand your tips, good job!

Absolute gold, thank you for this

Pure gold, I never knew these tricks

Solid tips Lech!!!! Keep them coming! And loving the shot match @ 3:01 👍

man you have no idea how good are these tips. The one for the glass is amazing

all of these are insanely helpful

Wow, phenomenal video, the ammount of information is insane, all useful !

This is amazing! Thanks for this!

Wow. I've been blendering for a while but still discovered a ton of new information in this video. Thanks for sharing!

Glass material was so helpful ! Thank you

These tips are amazing, nice small tricks that improve and remove a lot of that dead computer image issue.

Love this tips, Thanks for sharing

Nine minutes and so much valuable information! 👍👍👍

These are really great tips. Thank you so much!

Precious as always. Thanks for sharing your work and your secrets! Your works are always wonderful!

I've been doing 3D for a long time, and lighting is generally one of my stronger skills, but even I didn't think of tip # 11! That is brilliant and earned you a new subscriber!

OMG!!! Thx you! interesting and experience information!

The general consensus on the forums and blender chat is to not use tiling anymore since cyclesX. Thoughts? It also looks like in a few months it will be widely suggested that you should not use clamping any more. Many light sampling (light tree) gives much less noisy renders and when Path Guiding gets glossy ray support and is ported to GPU it should drastically improve renders without any clamping or or filter glossy.

Wow, this was actually really helpful. Thanks!

Very useful tips. Thanks.

Amazing tips. Thank you.

wow this is pure gold, thanks for sharing

This video what way better than I expected very usefull tips and actually new things I havent seen before thank you so much for sharing>

Found my new favorite archviz channel. Thank you!

amazing tips, thank you!

Muhteşem edit .. muhteşem+++ Emeklerine sağlık. Çok teşekkürler.

Yeah that glass shader is such a good solution. Bravo. Thanks

Absolutely goldmine of info. Thanks bro!

Thank you awesome tips

Thanks for sharing your knowledge. Have you ever used IES lights? We are using hundreds of spotlights for a retail interior scene and they make a huge difference.

Mind blown.... Many thanks!!

fantastic video!! thank you!

thank you for being so detailed and including so much in this video you are a real g

really good tips man, ty very much : )

simplify was my favorite. I searched for longer a method to decrease my 4k textures automatically in my test renders. Really a lot of helpful informations. Thanks for your efforts.

I didn't know about the composition guides in Blender. Now I know. Thank you :)

Wow! This is gold.

Great tips -- thanks for sharing!

Great work and perfect notes. I have been looking for this details ... Found something sometime ago but not that much sufficient. Thank very much ...

Very nice tips, thanks !

REALLY GOOD VIDEO! Fantastic content in general. Thank you.

These tips are top notch 👍

these tips are FIRE

The color settings look good!

mindblow! Thank you buddy

These are really good tips!

Thank you for these amazing tips!

Hands down the best tips ever! Thank you🎈

THXX YOU, SO HELPFULL

Wow, these are some extreme tips!

So impressive tips! thnks alot

Wow! Thanks for the tips. Especially for the flat glass, because doing thin clear plastic for packaging products was a challenge before. All those tips are great in fact. I just learned about OPTIX because I got an NVIDIA RTX card that supports it.

Careful if you use tiling with OptiX. I haven an rtx graphics card and I use cycles X with OptiX enabled, if I leave "tiling" on there's a chance that, if the scene is too heavy the render will run out of vram and stop rendering out of nowhere. Also tiling is slower than no tiling if you use OptiX. Keep this in mind for animations. Amazing tips btw. The double sun one was golden!

Very helpful video . Thanks for you work

Fantastic video, helped me understand what I can acctually do instead of poking around in the dark

Man, this made my day. I thought I knew my way around in blender but this video made me repeatedly shake my head in amazement and disbelieve. thanks.

Awesome tips man, thank you!

👍 👌 thanks for this valuable tips

Great video, helped a lot.

Thank you is not enough for these tips, but I really appreciate the information you provided in this video. Thank you again!

Didn`t got pro in 9 minutes, but what I learned here got me out from newbie looking renders. Thank you so much!

Really PRO tips!!

Great stuff, thanks!

Pure gold!

awesome, thank you so much!!!!

Excellent :O) love your work

Brilliant!

Great tips!

Great tips!! Excited to implement them ;-)

Very cool one! Been using blender for years, but some tips were more than useful

Wow, mind blown!

amazing, thanks man :)

Thank you so much so intersting tips

Very cool!

4:00 be very careful here, alt-d DOES NOT give you an instance, it gives you a linked duplicate. It is still a unique object, but one that reuses (links) the mesh of the original object. True instancing is way faster than linked duplicates and is also possible in Blender with a couple of easy methods, but you don't achieve it with alt-d.

You bringing up optix just saved me so much time. Thanks!

Wow, great video!

wooww! its so educational thank you

Most interesting, thank you! :)

Very helpful! Thank you for making this. The thin glass tip was priceless - so simple. I've ben focused on thick, curved glass and It's a struggle to be sure.

I'm only 2 in and both were top tips and worth a comment. Top man!

Brilliant! Do you have or can you do please a series on shader basics, all the (key) shaders?

Sztos pro tips! Pozdro z Białegostoku!

Very helpful 👌