It's one of. The best mods you can do

I'm really wanting one-where did you get yours because everywhere I've looked online is 'out of stock'?

@@tomservo5347 3d cycle parts

@@FullThrottleJunkie Thanks!

How does it feel on twisty roads?

Thank you for watching

Which is pretty funny considering the front sprocket has absolutely nothing to do with the speedometer drive.

@@GPz84 Incorrect. On the third Gen your countershaft... shaft is where the speedometer picks up is signal. This is the shaft behind the front sprocket. So anything that changes after that shaft is not seen by the speedometer. In factory trim, as in sprockets and tire sizes, at 65 indicated its actually going around 61 mph. Also your logging more distance than reality and showing better fuel economy than actual. Doing the 16 tooth gets you almost corrected with the indicated speedometer. Don't the 16t front and also going up one metric size on the rear tire puts you dead nuts on GPS/ dash indicated.

Glad I could help

Thanks for watching

Hello, did you make the change? How does the bike feel?

@@TomySTS no, I stayed with a 15 front, 43 rear and new x ring chain.

@@1219magnum thank you.

I didn't notice it

Noise went away after 100 miles or so. Must have been the paint or something

Yeah I'm still pretty happy with the 16 43

I was thinking of looking into the rear sprocket too. How’s the 42 vs 43, as far as you can remember?

you might want to look at exhaust and a power commander but its not going to give you much more power at the end of the day its a klr 650 witch is not known for power.

You might want to look at a bike with a bigger motor!

You've seen me "get it up". I have video proof 😂😂😂😂😂

Thanks for watching

@@FullThrottleJunkie what was the nut size for the front sprocket?

@@eveliogarcia9591 if I recall I believe it's a 27 mm

It doesn't make much of a difference that I can tell but it is definitely worth it for the highway

Practice your clutch skills

Thanks for watching

i got it from 3d cycle parts and the bike feels fine at lower speeds

I used a regular size deep socket the square edge you see in the video is for the speedometer that is now attached to the chain cover

I'm not very sure I think I would have better fuel mileage with lower rpm at any given speed as long as I'm not hammering the throttle every time I take off

@@FullThrottleJunkie yes as long as you’re not hammering the throttle. That’s hard to do! LOL!

@@bluezhawg2104 I'm researching the pros and cons of changing to a 16 tooth on a 2022 adventure. Please elaborate on your statements. Check engine light ?

@@bluezhawg2104 Thanks for the information.

A lot of people show little difference with fuel mileage

Thanks for watching!!

@@FullThrottleJunkie I had heard that the 16t wouldn't fit in the 2022 without cutting some metal in the case, but I guess that is not true, and a 16t can be inserted without any problem ...

@@chadkline4268 I did not have to cut anything

I'm running the b2m dash cam

@@FullThrottleJunkie awesome bud I appreciate it. I'm looking at putting one on the klr for trips

🤣🤣 first gear clutch-ups it's very hard on the bike

@@FullThrottleJunkie oh I'm sure it is....that is wild

Clutch dumps, it stretches chains like your mad at them.

Not that I can tell

@@FullThrottleJunkie thanks for the Intel, one of the most informative videos I've watched on the KLR. I keep getting intrigued by this bike.

@@Gravelcruiser it really is a great bike

I'll have to try to get my hands on one and see how it does

Where does one get 17 tooth for 2022 klr?! Part number ..

That's a very good question but there is enough adjustment in the rear to accommodate for the different size and sprockets so you can use the stock chain with no problem

Nope. You're just adding one tooth. If you were drastically changing the rear sprocket maybe so, but the KLR has so much rear arm swing the chain is pretty long with plenty of adjustment.

I'll have to fill it up one day and go out for a ride and ride it normally and see what my fuel mileage is

@@FullThrottleJunkie just an update just hot 3k miles fully loaded with all my camping gear went on the sooner adv ride this last week end drove a total 356 miles used around 3/4 tank approx 270 lbs on the bike that's running a single track and tons of sand gravel roads so on off gas a lot I am very happy with the mileage I am getting. Also the motz adv tire is amazing! Cheers

I don't know of anyways right now. But the sprocket did seem to help get the speed to match the GPS speed

@@FullThrottleJunkie I saw, seems to make the mod worth it just for that, tbh.

Best comment 👌

what?

doesn't need to be flashed the bike is just fine with the stock setup with the 16 tooth

​​@@FullThrottleJunkie from what I understand, all fuel injected bikes are made to run extra lean to pass the Euro5 emission standards, and such bikes experience major improvements in performance if dyno tuned with an ECU flash. But that doesn't seem to be available for KLRs yet. I'd expect at least 10% more power. I just saw another video with a 40/16 setup, that states 4250rpm at 80mph (should be the same as a 17t setup). And that would be really nice and comfortable. The way the ECU works is that for every monitored condition, the fuel/air ratio is looked up in the computer memory. So, if you change sprockets to a 16t, as you say, you will lose lower end torque but get better top speeds at lower RPMs. But if you dyno tune it and remap it, you can change the appropriate fuel/air ratios to accommodate the changes in torque and high speeds so that the ratios are tuned to the new gearing. Else, you are using a map for the old gearing with new gearing. And that won't be optimal.

The reason it is important to KLR owners is because the KLR is really borderline for long highway tours in stock form. Many interstate speed limits are now 80mph.

I just found this for KLRs, Magnum Tuning ECU, and maybe there are others: This Kawasaki KLR 650 Camo ECU chip is an in-line tuning device that recalibrates the fuel map settings for improved HP, torque, throttle sensitivity and pep. Our ECU chip works great with other aftermarket upgrades including exhaust, intake, cam and performance ignition. Claims 17% extra Horsepower and Torque 22% faster acceleration throughout the RPM range 6% fuel mileage improvement Higher top end speed (until redline limit) Improved throttle response w/o flat spots

@@TheJoeinwv This is what I learned, and it doesn't seem unreal: This Kawasaki KLR 650 Camo ECU chip is an in-line tuning device that recalibrates the fuel map settings for improved HP, torque, throttle sensitivity and pep. Our ECU chip works great with other aftermarket upgrades including exhaust, intake, cam and performance ignition. Claims 17% extra Horsepower and Torque 22% faster acceleration throughout the RPM range 6% fuel mileage improvement Higher top end speed (until redline limit) Improved throttle response w/o flat spots Info I gathered in the last 2 days concerning the KLR EFI and what performance gains may be extracted from it which seem to indicate 6% is easy+simple. -- Bad news: DynoJet's Power Commander KLR is better in the mid range while maintaining smooth control for the slow stuff. Looking at the maps, they achieved this by bumping up the timing advance values in the mid range. They made minimal changes to the fuel map. I'd compare the change to hitting the 'sport' button in your car or tow/pull button in your truck. -- Power Commander I don’t have one but those that have tried them on bikes in general say 1 to 2% increase. So .4 to 1.8 horsepower. Barely noticeable. The big bore kits seem to be the only thing that pumps up a KLR. -- I have two 2022 KLR’s both with power commanders. One has a Yoshi slip on and one has stock exhaust. Big improvement on both bikes but the Yoshi in my opinion gained at least 10% more. Much more throttle response and the added ability to pass cars on highway by just rolling the throttle instead of a requiring a down shift. Also a noticeable reduction in engine vibration at 60 to 70 mph. The engine just runs smoother. Definitely worth the money especially if your already adding a slip on exhaust. If you add the PC to your stock exhaust it comes with a map ready for that exhaust. You’ll notice a quicker throttle response and a bit more horsepower. Add a slip on with the PC and the improvement over stock is significant. Hopefully soon, PC will have a map specifically tuned for a few different slip on exhaust options. Either way, the PC is a great upgrade. -- Re-Flash The ECU Or Aftermarket Tuner Most modern bikes have an engine control unit (ECU), a small computer chip that controls (and much of the time strangles) various aspects of the bike’s performance. That chip is factory-programmed to comply with emissions and fuel requirements, but lucky for you, it can be remapped/re-flashed to uncork performance. An ECU (re)flash involves changing the stock onboard programming with a new tune usually resulting in good power gains (depending on your goals). But if you’re always changing parts on the bike (exhaust pipes, etc.), an ECU flash is probably not for you. Also, if done incorrectly your bike will suffer, so make sure the grease monkey doing the work knows the lay of the land. Or you can go with an aftermarket fuel/power tuner (like a Power Commander or Vance & Hines FuelPak) to adjust those stock settings. Broadly speaking, tuners come in two flavors: plug-and-play units designed for stock or lightly modified engines, and those that can be programmed to add more fuel or air and tweak other settings at different ranges to make more power to meet a highly tuned engine's needs. If you've slapped on a new pipe, you'll definitely want a tuner to get fuel mapping brought into line. These units can be a much simpler and more flexible deal than a re-flash. Result: Unless you're piggybacking with some other change, power gains won't be much, but they'll improve overall rideability. -- First, let me start by saying that the KLR EFI system is a version of 'speed density'. This means it monitors 'air density' to make changes to the fuel mapping using a MAP sensor and a 'narrow band' O2. The factory table is very narrow. It then uses the O2 reading to determine if the map/specified injector duty cycle is sufficient to keep the AFR (air/fuel ratio) within range (again, the factory O2 range is very narrow). It compensates for 'density' changes, ie; altitude and temperature. The system has no way of knowing what the 'mass air flow' actually is at any given point. When a free flowing intake and/or exhaust is installed that creates a 'mass flow' increase. Same thing if one installs a 685 kit for example. Simply bolting on 'performance parts' in general does NOT change the 'density' of the incoming air. Therefore the system has very little information to go on for making adjustments; other than it will see that the O2 reading is out of parameters for the corresponding density reading. The table the factory loads into the computer is so narrow it cannot produce appropriate compensation. Likewise, the factory has also specified rather 'lean' algorithms in regards to AFR. This means not only does the factory computer programming not have the ability (narrow band) to make enough correction but it doesn't see the 'need' to do it. Running that lean isn't going to help power output. The Power Commander gives full control over the fuel map and duty cycle (this is key) of the injector. One could literally run the injector at 100% duty cycle but it's not recommended. It would be more practical to upgrade the size of the injector at that point to maintain efficiency and longevity. Dynojet isn't in the business of 'making maps' for every bike and every combination. That's precisely why they have shops designated as "tuners" who employ a dynamometer. Dynojets' market is 'massive' in comparison to JD or most any others. What the 'autotune' (wideband) does is allow an end user to apply all of the same technology that would be used at the dyno. It tunes your engine in real time and has the ability to 'fully' compensate for any performance mods. It allows the user to specify what AFR and at what RPM/throttle position you want it. It's basically the equivalent of having a "factory" programming process right on the bike. It's a 'piggyback' system which means it intercepts the OEM input signal and then 'modifies' it to meet the parameters set forth in the map table. It's basically a constant feedback loop that allows full control over fuel and timing. Once the autotune makes a recommend table the user is able to go in and 'accept' the suggested 'trims' and/or modify them. Basically, the sky is the limit (or injector size/duty cycle) capabilities. With the setup that Willie is running and some seat time running the autotune through it's paces accepting trims (it takes many rides at different loads) to achieve, I firmly believe +10hp is not out of the question. Based on what I've seen in other applications. The big single thumper is going to benefit greatly from some ignition timing advancement because it needs more time to build cylinder pressure during the compression stroke. I'll reiterate, the KLR is NOT highly tuned from the factory; if anything it's DE-TUNED. This got a little long but there's a lot to cover. Bottom line, the PC runs circles around any other tuning module on the market in multiple ways. -- I am glad the PC+AT runs circles around simple fuel tuners. And it should because it is 3.5x the price of the JD Jetting Fuel Tuner. -- JDKAX04 - Kawasaki KLR650 (22) EFI $251.95 Easy install on bike Detailed instructions Change settings anytime Dyno and field tested, the Power Surge 6X will allow correction for humidity, temperature, air pressure, along with race fuels and motor modifications. The tuner adjusts in a matter of seconds in 6 zones, including an accelerator pump feature for more throttle snap response. The tuner can add or subtract fuel from the injection system. Conditions like rich or lean running, and stalling from flame-out at low revs can be corrected. The Power Surge 6X stays mounted on the motorcycle or quad. -- 33->39HP with the JD part. You'll need Snorkel delete and I believe a Uni Filter, plus your Delkevic exhaust to get to these results. -- I am surprised that it is nearly impossible to find Gen3 KLR owners that have posted info on using a high performance air filter + exhaust with a quality EFI tuner or dyno tune, with or without 16t/17t. The KLR is right on the edge of being a very highway capable/comfortable with proper gearing (17t, or 16t/40t = 800 lower RPMs at highway speeds) and the potential extra power these things can provide (6hp = 20%). A BMW 310 GS will max out at 90mph, same as a KLR, while getting nearly double the fuel mileage.

Hopefully they'll revise the emissions again later on and then bring it to the UK I believe that's why it's not there

On my ‘07 running premium gas was the only way to keep the pilot jet from clogging up. I was having to clean it 2-3 times per year. Never noticed any performance changes though.

Wasting your money buying anything about 87 octane which the bike was made for. Unless your bike is pinging the higher octane will do nothing for you but take your money. kzfaq.info/get/bejne/sMV5idmH35q3g5s.html

Run nothing but ethanol free regular in my 22 Gen 3 and get 55 to 58mpg.

With computer in Gen 3, just used the 87, the higher octane will not help the bike with a computer

I'm not a fan of them

hello hello

It really seems to work best at around 65 mph. That's the sweet spot that drops revs about 500 and makes the bike much less 'buzzy' at normal cruise speed at least what I've seen in other videos.

1 tooth more on front sprocket will be a very subtle difference -ran my xt 500 in the 80's with a 17 front and 39 back and was a dream on freeways,keep a second back wheel with a 48 tooth sprocket for off road and you are sorted.

I haven't noticed any issues with it at low speeds I've had it offered several times since I've made this video and have not had a single problem once

@@FullThrottleJunkie Of course you didn’t notice that is what we call modification bias / confirmation. In the rural west where we have steep terrain the stock gearing works best. The fact your wheelie attempts failed with the 16 provided low speed degradation of performance. As with most mods we sacrifice in one area for gains elsewhere.

@@bluezhawg2104 I do a lot of highway riding between 80 and 85 miles an hour it is brought down the engine RPM and doesn't feel like it is struggling anymore. I've also had the bike off-road the area I'm in it is mainly flat with a few hills here and there. Haven't had any issues from changing the sprocket. And the failed wheelie attempt was on myself and not the bike I have gotten a lot better with the wheelies if you go check out my Aprilia Touareg video in the intro you can see a proper KLR wheelie with the 16 tooth front sprocket.

About what?

What a stupid name

What speed am I lying about? I had the GPS speed

Don't trust a man with such a hairstyle....

Thanks for watching 🤣

@Raymond Stafferton . And what do you do loser?