That 3 point scoop in the background in the beginning would probably dig a better ditch faster than a grader blade. Take 1 cut then put your tire in the cut to make your cuts on the sides to start it off will let you cut a more gentle slope into the middle. Or just use that tractor bucket lol. But honestly that subsoiler alone would probably do a good enough job draining especially if you make an attachment for it thats like a pointed cone with a big piece of chain welded to the back a few feet long to help pack the sides of the hole the blade cuts. That is a homemade mole plow and depending on your soil and how good of a job you do it can last anywhere from a year to 20. Lot of folks have to redo it every 4-5 years but some folks don't have to re do it for decades. Basically takes the place of drainage tile but cheaper and easy to DIY. And doesn't require any excavation lets you keep your field flat.

It’s hard to ditch with a blade that doesn’t tilt. My rear blade will tilt up and angle both which does great on ditching. You did the best you could with what you had. The steeper you angle your blade towards the tire the better it will dig in that corner, also turning the top link in shorter helps put the corner in the ground. Enjoyed seeing the old blue tractor at work!

More angle. Polish the moldboard a bit. Still fun to watch.

With the equipment you have you did a darn good job Phil

Heavy sod is difficult to ditch. Maybe a tiller? A good rain will help too. Just takes time,sometimes.

Nice work Phil! Did that end up working for ya, I’m sure it helped. Take care buddy

Need more angle on the blade, max available angle adjustment. Hard to do with a blade stove up from rust, understood. Fix blade to gain full angle. Repaint the blade face then spray with diesel oil as needed so the sod spoil will travel off to the side at max angle. Don't ripe with the subsoiler unless necessary. Use just the new sharp blade edge at appropriate tilt and "max" angle to cut sod off in narrow strips (six inches?), play small ball. Move and leave sod spoils in a wind row wide of the ditch edges with max blade angle. Then dig and move the fine dirt from the ditch out only to the edges of the ditch (not into the sod spoils) so it can be collected with the front end loader and stored for future us. Dig the ditch deep enough to blade and spread the grass spoils immediately (same day) back into the ditch. Pack it. They will survive. The ditch should not be a ditch. It should be a wide (twice blade width) swale. You should be able to cross it at near full tractor speed. Or it will wash/rut out if it moves any water during a big rain event. I know it looks like a lot of work, but that also looks like a very nice piece of land.

I think you did a good job with what you had just got to get that angle sharp as you can. I have used a box blade with success

I think you did well with the tools you had available! By the way, thanks for the phone call- I have just been crazy busy and haven't had any time to reach back out to you.

angle the blade more then shorten the top link. this will make the blade cut more aggressively and deeper. dont get to aggressive! drive down one way turn around and drive back up the other. this will create a "V" groove ditch. have fun!

You can buy a middle plow blade that will go on your subsoiler (you remove the subsoiler blade and it bolts in the same spot). I know EA sells them I think around $50-$60. You may be able to find the blade at Tractor Supply or some place like that even cheaper allowing you to have two tools-subsoiler and Middle Plow/Potato plow by just switching at the blades and it is only two bolts to do it. PS-I looked on Amazon and they have just the blade on there also.

I know it would be some work believe me I've done it. Wait until after a rain and use a shovel that way you would know exactly how the water is draining and how deep you would need to go. Then you could use your blade a bit better unless you can adjust your loader to angle a bit.

that blade looked like it had a pin to rotate the edge down, right where the supports for teh three point meet the main shaft of the implement...there was three holes there, looks like that would give you another 10 degrees or so.

Nothing wrong with what your doing, how ever I am like you and have tried this before and come up empty handed untill my neighbour told me that the problem is the grass.l, which you can see with the subsoiler pulling out big clumps, the grass and roots and binding the soil together in big clumps, you need fine soil with no roots to do what you want to do. His suggestion being mark out the area you intend to ditch then spray the grass with roundup (glyphosate) as it kills the grass roots and tip and releases the dirt. What you can then do is make a few passes with your subsoiler or better get a box blade with the rippers all the way down to break the soil up, let it dry for a few days then go along it with your blade the way you have it and your soil if dry enough should peel back the way you want. Problem with tractors is although it may look like an earth mover, the face is it is not built like one and your implements will just float ontop of the grass root/soil structure as I can see in your video. Good luck and hope you post a follow up.

I wonder if you would used the tiller on a few passes... you can slant the tiller just like you did that blade.... then use the blade to scrape a "V" where you tilled up the ground maybe?

If you would have angled the blade on around, the blade should have done more. Always run the edge of the blade in the furrow.

Why don't you use a 16-18" front end load to dig down much deeper and scoop both sides out with the grading blade at the precise angle on each side and let mother nature take its course...then modify.

A middle buster would work to make a ditch.

that was just silly...ha