I put a 180 in but forgot to change fan speed and they only come on at 220 degrees while idling

@@sladertater I highly recommend the fan setting seen above 😄 from sitting through traffic for the Woodward dream cruise, to doing some nice burnouts and making 1/4 mile passes right after, to driving in as low as 37-38°, this thermostat with those fan settings has been perfect! No dropping back below operating temp and I haven’t seen above 190° unless I’m turning my vehicle off to get gas after some spirited runs. And with the stop thermostat I would’ve seen 200-220° in the same exact situation. I absolutely love it! The last test is to see the longevity of this thermostat, I have heard that they don’t last too long from some folks and from some other folks, I’ve heard that they’ve had the same thermostat in for 5+ years.

So I'm about to do this on my 300c, im a little confused about the bleeding method after installing. Did you have any issues after coolant draining out onto belt near electrical components, I've heard it varys but its usually harmless

Also, im scared that even installing the cool temp thermostat i don't have a diablo tuner to reset the fans. :/ does anybody know where I can find a reliable source to buy one that is legit

@@lukemei5ter sorry for just getting back to you, I just ended up seeing this. I did have some coolant spill during the install but a nice thorough rinsing took care of that. If you put the car up on jack stands or ramps it’ll prevent this from happening for the most part. I rinsed everything thoroughly after bleeding the system. Heat that bolt up a tad if it doesn’t come loose with a bit of force, they tend to get stuck and round out. Just make sure to check the coolant when you drive for a couple days after the install, you’ll probably need to top off the coolant tank a time or two. As for the Diablo tuner, you could grab one from Holley performance, they’re the manufacturers (they purchased Diablo a few years back - actually that was in 2014…. 10 years ago. Time flies, haha.) or you could purchase a MPVI for HP tuners and tuning credits. Credits from HP Tuners' credit-based licensing system can be used to purchase licenses that allow you to tune a vehicle's control module (PCM), including ECMs and TCMs. The number of credits needed for a license varies by vehicle. I believe ours require 100 credits, but double check to be sure. The fans are very useful, they will work in unison to keep everything in a cooler range (180°-190°, sometimes 195°) rather than 200°-215°+. You will be fine for a bit with fans at the stock settings, the thermostat just won’t be as useful and efficient at keeping this cool, but some folks keep stock fan setting honestly. You just want to make sure you don’t set them too low or they will fail/burn out prematurely. I hope I gave a helpful synopsis 😄

Thank you for the advice man, I’ll have to put the car on ramps next time!😁🫱🏻‍🫲🏼

Thank you brother🤞🏼🙂 that 170° thermostat is gnarly! After having it in for a while, I seem to see between 185° and 190°. I may swap to a 170° when I get these modifications in place! Sounds like a great t-stat for track use, perfect for the 300C!😄 That’s very useful information about the cold season, thank you for letting me know! Luckily, I’ll be able to keep the car put up for most of the winter. I’ll get it out on nicer days to take for a spin so she doesn’t sit all winter. I’ll have to keep that in mind if I have a 170° t-stat in the car next winter. The car was garage kept for 17 years, I had to drive it through a winter in a half, but now she’s going back to hibernating for the cold seasons, haha. Hopefully I can keep her one of the cleanest 1st gen 300s in the mid west! I hope you have a great day man!

Thank you brother🙏 I appreciate you! Much more to come, this is only the beginning of the build and channel!😄🫱🏻‍🫲🏼

100%, the valve seat issue is very common. It’s happened with many 203° thermostats that were faulty and had gotten stuck open as well. Also from coolant hoses blowing or radiators cracking and people not realizing until the motor shut off from overheating. We’ll see how the thermostat does, it’s been in for a good minute and she’s been running perfect. Won’t jump over 190° and won’t drop below 180° once it’s up to temp. She’s a “toy” so she doesn’t get driven 24/7. For daily drivers I recommend the stock thermostat or a 190°. Mopar sells these thermostats are part of there direct connections kits and all for drag racing but they’re for performance oriented vehicles that are more so “track toys” or “street cars”. If the vehicle ever tops 200° with this t-stat, a new one would be ordered that day. (And with multiple burnouts and full 1/4 mile passes, she never topped 195°, so after 195° It would most definitely capture my attention. I constantly monitor temps and gauges, haha. The valve seat issue is fixable and preventable with the reworking of your pre-eagle heads by a company like mmx or a local shop, by swapping to eagle heads, or by grabbing some aftermarket heads like Edelbrock. The true failure rate of the 5.7L Hemi, in comparison to the amount of motors produced, is right about 5%. (The other main issue with lifters is thought to be able to be solved with an improved and higher performance oil pump as well.) I have seen some of these thermostats faulty straight out of the box, my buddies mishimoto through codes and was instantly faulty. But I have also seen the same thing with the 203° thermostat, there are many for threads about the thermostat being stuck closed. If the build is a performance build, or you’re looking to improve the amount of horsepower readily available, combating heat soak, it’s a great month. If you daily drive the vehicle, it’s not necessarily the best mod especially due to the fact that the 203° thermostat combats carbon build up. It also increases fuel economy. If you don’t mind me asking, what did you do for the rebuild? Did you take it back to stock or did you throw some upgrades at it. my buddy works in the corporate division of Chrysler as an engineer and I’ve had him look over my 300, I was concerned after a bit, but all the noises head ping. My heads & most of the motor were most likely rebuilt by the 1st/previous owner. I do have ported and built heads on the way though to combat this issue. I also wanted to mention that I have seen these heads be extremely resilient, my buddy blew a coolant hose and temp spiked over 230° multiple times, of course he had to shut it down immediately. Temps spiked on the way home multiple times and he shut her down when he got home, to my surprise… they’re perfectly fine. But hey, at least they fixed it in the eagle heads, haha! I hope you have a great day! (Has the car been trouble free since the catastrophic failure? Just wondering. Also, how has the NAG1 trans treated you? I’m genuinely interested.)

Been through 6 motorad thermostats and have yet to find one that doesn't start sticking after a few drives. There's literally no other brands that aren't made by motorad.

@@corruption1724me to cut one open to delete it and to restrict flow

😂😭🫱🏻‍🫲🏼 thank you brother, I swear it was playing in my head as I grabbed the t-stat from the bottom of the engine bay!

Thank you mannn! I can’t wait to hear & see what you do go that beautiful Cadillac! I’d love to get my hands on one in the future!😄🙏🤞🏼 once I get this custom x pipe fabricated by a nice shop the exhaust will be finished, I can’t wait to see how it sounds!😵‍💫

For daily driver applications, you’d experience more carbon build up as 5.7L HEMIs run at 203°-220° ish to help prevent carbon build up. For something being geared towards racing/thrashing it’s better as it helps combat the heat soak that’s bound to occur at high RPM operation. As to it gumming up catalytic converters and o2 sensors, I’ll have to do research as I honestly don’t know 100% and do not want to speak out of turn. I’m definitely interested in researching it now that you’ve brought the matter up!

I’m most definitely getting on a real schedule for content and should be posting way more consistently! I’m gunning for a video a week from today forward😄🕺🏼 I really appreciate you man! Definitely a lot more shenanigans and modifications to come! The channel and the build are going to be focused on and changing quite a bit! It’s grind time! ⏰🤞🏼🚀

Mannnnn😂😭 I forgot about that one! I for sure would have thrown it in or mixed them together in some sort of way! That would’ve been great😆✊🏻

😆💀

Don't change away from factory, I had problems using a cooler thermostat.

Mines was running 230-242 soon as I hit it I’m never buying aftermarket oem

Depending on application. For daily driving a 190° thermostat would be okay but I would stray away from the 180°. Mishimoto t-stats are known to have issues. There’s no issue with running a cooler thermostat. I have for a while now and yes, I put real street miles on it (4,000+ miles, plenty of burnouts, sat in traffic during the Woodward dream cruise, etc.) the 203° thermostat combats carbon build up, for daily driving applications it best. Some people run the 203° daily and pop a 180° motorad in for track days.

Definitely a faulty thermostat. Sounds like it was stuck closed. I haven’t seen north of 198° making 1/4 mile passes and taking full advantage of that burnout box.

A cooler thermostat may be best depending on the application. 180° thermostats and cooler are for performance oriented vehicles. Not to be daily driven mostly; however, many people have daily driven with motorad 180° thermostats with no issues for thousands of miles. You can drive with them in fairly cold weather (38° ish) as well. I tested it recently. I would recommend 190°+ for daily driving. My buddy runs a 190° t-stat in his srt8 every day as a daily with 0 issue.

I appreciate you man! Many more videos to come!

@@Underdogbuilds hell yeah bro, can’t wait

Most definitely!

You’re right. That was what was recommended when I purchased the 180° tstat a good while ago (I took a long while to get around to installing it as well). Many people on the forums running these thermostats were misleading people. Once I saw the message that HHP put out that said “In order to take full advantage of your HHP 180 degree thermostat, on applicable vehicles with adjustable fan settings, we recommend the following fan temperature adjustments on your Diablosport tuner. Set All 9 Fan Settings (both Air Condition On and AC Off) to: All HS (High Speed) Fan Settings to 194 Degrees All LS (Low Speed) Fan Settings to 189 Degrees All MS (Med. Speed) Fan Settings to 192 Degrees *Failure to set your fan settings at these higher temps will result in your fans constantly running and can cause your fan motors to burn out prematurely.”, I ended up changing fan settings and broadcasting it across my social media platforms (I also put this information in the pinned comment under this video). Luckily I found the info on fan settings very shortly after install.

@@Underdogbuilds you are a good man! Just seems to me that ppl would’ve seen that clearly to begin with. All that fan run time wearing them out and loading the alternator needlessly. I have everything on At factor setting they rarely run unless the AC is on and it stays between 180-190. That’s a good temp for everything but that cel 😂.

I most definitely agree! For some reason Diablo themselves said to drop all fan settings 20° for HS, MS, and LS. It’s interesting that they put that information out there, especially when it contradicts what High Horse Performance says. After I did some more research into the fans settings and all on forums I thought of the HHP website and read through the description. High Horse Performance stated “In order to take full advantage of your HHP 180 degree thermostat, on applicable vehicles with adjustable fan settings, we recommend the following fan temperature adjustments on your Diablosport tuner. Set All 9 Fan Settings (both Air Condition On and AC Off) to: All HS (High Speed) Fan Settings to 194 Degrees All LS (Low Speed) Fan Settings to 189 Degrees All MS (Med. Speed) Fan Settings to 192 Degrees *Failure to set your fan settings at these higher temps will result in your fans constantly running and can cause your fan motors to burn out prematurely.” And I most definitely trust them more, especially in this situation. I have been enjoying this 180° thermostat very much though, the car goes away for the winter so it’s a great thermostat for me. I did drive it in 37-38° weather on the way to the storage facility last year and she did great! No CEL or any wonkiness to be seen.

@@Underdogbuilds I get cel and code says tstat not operating or something to that affect. I’ve got an old 1988 Grand Cherokee 5.9 with a 180 I changed to and get a code on that one too. Guess I’ll just learn to live with it. MOPAR2YA

Thank you man, I appreciate you! I’m redoing 2-3 videos that are on the channel to have the best delivery of and most accurate information possible and I have quite a few new video that are going to be dropping. We’ve got a couple vlogs in editing, an unboxing/sit down, and some more informational videos lined up! The next informational video (being edited currently) is speaking in the limitations of 5.7L HEMI powered vehicles! (The limitations of the rotating assembly, fuel system, and main components of the drive train will all be spoken about. Including the transmission, driveshaft, differential, and axles)

@@Underdogbuilds I’m here for it man I have a 2011 R/T Max in redline pearl red with the peanut butter interior. 93 tune TCM/PCM, intake, exhaust, pedal commander for shits and giggles turned up to the max lol so it’s a fun car. I’ll be around enjoying your content man. Keep it up!!

They can be for sure, it depends how harsh the winter season is around you. With you being in Texas I’d say you’re all good (unless it drops in temp majorly like it did this past winter) I know quite a few folks who run it in the winter, some of them have had a CEL come on a time or two when the motor rose above operating temp, then dropped back below. I will say that I drove my car from my house to the indoor storage facility in 37-38° weather and it acted perfectly fine. The temp rose above 180° and stayed there, it was probably a 4 mile drive and it ended up hitting operating temp fairly quickly even though it was cold cold.

I did end up bleeding the air out of the system but for some reason couldn’t find the clips sadly! The forbidden bolt at the top of your water pump does tend to strip/round out so be very cautious! Mine started to give me a bit of trouble so I hit it with map gas for a good 30 seconds, grabbed a hex key, a little piece of tubing to use as a breaker bar, and she came off with no issues! I then cracked the reservoir cap until coolant flowed out of the bleeder consistently, once I saw a nice stream I capped both ends, then filled the coolant back up. I did have to fill it back to the max line another 2-3 times as the coolant fully ran through the system over the next couple of days & drives. If you’ll be daily driving the car pretty consistently I would recommend something like a 190° thermostat because the 180° thermostats can fail with heavy daily driving and also cause some other issues for you. I use a diablosport intune i3 platinum that I got from holleys website, i don’t remember the exact difference between the platinum and non platinum edition of the tuners though. I hope I answered your question(s) pretty thoroughly man😄✊🏻 I do want to mention that these HEMIs do tend to run between 195° and 215°-ish degrees with no issues, as it’s normal and designed to operate as such but upgrading the thermostat definitely helps!

The Diablo tune for sure woke it up a tad, I could feel the difference, but I can’t 100% attest to any numbers. Do I believe so? Yes. I do not have direct evidence to support those claims though. It is most definitely handy for disabling MDS, 100% of the traction system, adjusting fan settings, and firming up the shifts a little bit. The cold air intake seems to be nice as my buddy has one on his 6.1L making north of 500 HP. My long tubes just heat up my engine bay more than those stock manifolds so under that hood gets a bit toasty. I have a project going with the OEM lights to get some ambient air up in the engine bay🙂 To respond to your other comment as well, there was noticeable improvements with the K&N intake but not drastic. The stock air box will typically produce better numbers on the dyno and better ETs at the track unless you have some nice ambient air being sucked/rammed in. The car stayed really cool with it without the t-stat, it’s would hover around 200-203 max. But of course with the t-stat I’m rockin right about 183°-190° and I love it!

looking down in the airbox, how much it gets restricted before it goes to the bottom of the engine bay concerns me,., I also noticed some oil in the bottom of the filter housing, and on the filter.. what I suspect is happening, is that the engine is pulling so much vacuum, thru the small restrictive ducting, it cant pull what it needs, so it also pulls thru the crankcase vent hose.. also my car has the california emmisions system so im wondering if part of that is that they detune the engine for a more pollution minded engine than a performance standpoint... dont get me wrong, my 06 300c hauls ass.... but I would like to get it to its full potential... it only has 57.600 miles on it, so it should have plenty of life left in it... I see them for sale around me with 170 to 200 thousand miles, still running strong.. @@Underdogbuilds

also have you changed the fluid and filter in your transmission?

let me know how it goes with the air intake... if the round restriction could be opened up under the airbox, then a high flow filter be used in the stock airbox, I think it would be a win.... with the cold air aftermarket filter, you are trading volume for heat... yes its flowing more air, but its mostly hot air... im going to see what I can figure out and will let u know if I figure out something,, @@Underdogbuilds

100%. This vehicle is not a daily and is put up until spring currently. You can drive in fairly cool temps though. I did the last oil change fairly recently and it was 38°. The vehicle was perfect. Never dropped back below operating temp 😄 I wouldn’t drive it in any weather cooler than that though. Many people who daily drive their hemi will daily the 203° t-stat and pop in the 180° for track days

I can definitely do that, I’ll put them in the description🤞🏼

@@Underdogbuilds thanks man

@@mattkopytek9103 not a problem brother🤞🏼

I had just replaced the radiator, the stock thermostat was put back in for a short period until I got a new daily. (Didn’t want to daily the 180°) The inside was dirty beforehand, during this video it had recently been freshened up. I’ll be doing another radiator flush when the vehicle comes out of storage though🤞🏼 I should have replaced the t-stat when replacing the radiator for sure

I’m not 100% sure and don’t want to misinform you on how they particularly got this to work, but it does indeed keep all 8 cylinders active all the time!😁 the only true way to delete and disable MDS is of course non-mds lifters, cam, etc. I’ll be swapping in a comp 220/230 cam in the very near future along with the plugs for MDS and non-MDS lifters though, sometimes people have trouble getting the tuners to actually disable MDS. Sometimes it’s due to an update and sometimes it’s due to the tuner not wanting to cooperate.

@@Underdogbuilds Ok cool. I’ll be installing my Non-MDS lifters & cam when my new cylinder heads arrive. I have the Diablo-Sport Predator 2 tuner so I’ll see how that works. Appreciate it! Nice build too!

The MDS lifters have oil gallies that cause the lifters to collapse. Turning off MDS will stop that from happening during idle or light cruising modes. Not sure the benefits of turning it off. With a total MDS delete. The non MDS lifters and camshaft are more durable and by removing the MDS solenoids better oil flow.

They’re MSD coils (from MSD performance/Holley) & Taylor ThunderVolt 8.2mm spark plug wires (these can be found on Jegs, Summit racing, or even amazon I believe)

This doesn’t effect how quickly the vehicle reaches operating temp - 180° (except in the cold months), this opens the thermostat at 180° rather than 203°, which keeps the car around 185°. These HEMIs are designed with the 203° to combat carbon build up, that’s all. they hinder performance and if your car is being built, isn’t daily driven, is stored throughout the winter, and will be getting modified more and more, It will help ETs at the track. It combats heat soak allowing you to make all of the power you’re supposed to rather than being heat soaked and down on power. Upgrading your thermostat to a higher performing, lower temp variant is not recommended if you daily drive the vehicle.

These cars come with a 203° thermostat stock to combat carbon build up. This has them running between 195° and 210°+ just to prevent that carbon build up. It does help to drop to a 160°, 170°, 180°, or 190° for performance oriented applications but not for daily drivers. It can cause some issues daily driving, sitting in traffic, etc. with that much coolant flowing 24/7. So, with most grabbing the 5.7L in a daily driver/tow rig, they dropped the 203° in to please the average consumer. For people who want to improve lap times at the track, 1/4 mile and 1/8th mile times at the strip, and overall performance, companies like HHP provide these aftermarket parts for us to improve for what we need specifically. Of course it doesn’t add more power but it surely does allow you to use the power that’s there more efficiently rather than being heat soaked 🙂 so overall, it was just best for the average consumer as they most likely will be daily driving their HEMI.

Set All 9 Fan Settings (both Air Condition On and AC Off) to: All HS (High Speed) Fan Settings to 194 Degrees All LS (Low Speed) Fan Settings to 189 Degrees All MS (Med. Speed) Fan Settings to 192 Degrees *Failure to set your fan settings at these higher temps will result in your fans constantly running and can cause your fan motors to burn out prematurely.

Sadly not, the tuners are locked to one vehicle unless you pay for another vehicle

Yes, if you don’t adjust the fan settings the thermostat will open at 180° but the fans would still kick on around 190-200°. It doesn’t seem too detrimental but your motor would see temps of around 195°-210° rendering the 180° ineffective

Holley.com has the Diablo intune i3 platinum I use 🙂

Holley performance/Diablo sport (Holley either acquired or has always owned Diablo so you can grab it directly from Holley) After further research I found this: “On December 8, 2014, Holley acquired DiabloSport Inc. On September 22, 2015, Holley acquired MSD Group, which includes brands MSD, Mr.” So the old diablosport.com web address directly links to Holley.com😄👍🏼