The lubricator on the support for the handle shaft is designed to hold grease. You are supposed to fill the base up level with grease then fill the cap up level with it, then you screw the cap on to the base just a turn or two to squeeze enough grease through to lubricate the shaft. After that, you just need to give the cap a half turn or so now and then to add more grease as needed until the whole thing needs refilling!

Very cool project. I actually just came to the comment to say that your Weimaraner and chocolate Lab at 28:30 are ringers for ours who passed a while back. The Lab was the eager inquisitive friendly goof, the Weimaraner the reserved, serious one who went along with the Lab when he got out of our yard to keep him out of trouble. I miss them, and I'm glad to see your are so obviously well loved.

I love that no mater what he takes the time to love on the fur babies 🐕

Мобильный горн! Впервые вижу! Вещь просто уникальная, при том что КПД просто восторгает........... Лайк на все 100%. Оно стоило того!!!...................Я бы на него пристроил на две ножки колеса небольшие с поворотным механизмом, подобно как у торговой тележки и рукоять для перемещения, тогда не пришлось бы его поднимать на пупа.............................

That machine was originally engineered to be lubricated with plain lard. The cup at the top is made so that the highly viscous animal fat will very slowly creep down over time, and the cotton packing in the lower bearings is there to hold it in place when it gets warm enough by the heat of the forge to want to liquefy, because it will hold to the cotton like a candle wick and that ensures it remains lubricated even at high temps.

I love these kinds of restorations. It's like quiet contemplation, almost, and I love seeing things restored back to usable, practical condition.

I am a ‘jack of all trades’ and I watch your videos all the time. Keep restoring.

amazing You remind me of my daddy, but he were alive he would be 96. He knew how to do all this stuff. Young people today don't appreciate the old stuff and certainly aren't interested in restoring it. Bravo

OMG! ALL THE PUPPERS!!!!!! Breaks for Petz appreciated. :)

The brown can on the crank bearing housing is a grease fitting. You pack it full with bearing grease, screw the lid on just a few turns and as needed you can screw down some more to have some of the grease end up inside the bearing housing...You may need to repack the can a few times to fill the inner housing completely with grease...

The sights, sounds and smell coming from a blacksmith's shop is music to my soul. Thanks for sharing the restoration. Take care.

This is the first restoration / repair video that shows cracks in cast iron being drilled before the repair. I’ve been complaining for years! I actually showed this video to my 9 year old, praising the technique. Great job and thank you for doing it right!

Ok, I just finished the video, and I was definitely right! All of your restorations are so complete from start to finish and they include anything and everything a viewer could desire from a video!

Вот ЭТО -- настоящее восстановление!!! А не прочее -- разобрал,прочистил,смазал и вперёд. Тут и разогрев,сварка (одно ушко на кожухе -- это высший класс!),юстировка,смазка -- ну и пёсиков как то занять-отогнать,что бы не мешали. Кароч -- не знаю что это за механизм,думаю старики просто так металл плавить не стали бы -- но этот паря -- сделал всё как надо -- чесьь ему и хвала! Одно не пойму -- где такие относительно сохранившиеся механизмы ещё е? Как говорил Жванецкий -- кибернетика,электроника ! -- а голова на что?! Черепок?!

I wish all KZfaq channels made videos exactly as you do. No BS, great editing, mix of FF and real time, and once again, no BS.

The dog stole the show, super job 100%

Sir, you did a excellent job on this restoration. Thank you

I always love how old tools spring back to life with some TLC, cleaning, and repair. Great job. I've brought back to life many an old tool from my granddad and great grandfather's time. They are in many ways better than a new tool. Love this

Nice to see that Champion back in action. That bandsaw and jointer, Oh My!

On "refractory" to line the pan- I have used "fire brick" but I am told they make a "cement" that will handle the heat. I was told that by the place that sold me fire-brick, but it is $90 for 10lbs or something like that. I'm no expert. Thanks VERY much for sharing. I am about to tackle a very similar project. Thanks again and NICE job.

Some points I wanted to mention.... Unless you are using sand or clay that has been dried in an oven or in a pot over a fire, there is too much moisture in the material to use it for slow cooling of a cast iron part. If the sand or clay is the least bit moist, you are actually helping fast cool what ever you are putting into it. Another point, you are not using enough preheat and heat in general to braze. You could have heated up that forge pan with a fire for a few hours before it would even be close to the temperature for brazing. Basically if the whole part (or the majority of the part) being brazed is not red hot, the cooler areas of the part will wick heat away from the brazing zone and quench, so to speak, the area of the braze. I can't hear the flame, but it looks like your tip is too small. You can cheat on preheat by brazing with the cutting tip or sometimes even the rosebud tip. Yes I have done this sometimes when I could not get enough preheat or was too lazy to wait. And to also say, with this brazing that you are doing, this slow cooling in clay or sand or whatever is not really necessary. Slow cooling is really important when welding with an electric arc. The electric arc has about TWICE the temperature as oxy-acetylene brazing. Not as much heat, but twice the temperature in degrees. This is important because brazing does not get the always high-carbon content iron to a high enough localized temperature to make it hard and thus brittle. Not like electric arc welding does. So unless you are arc welding cast iron, and you have done the proper preheat and thus want a slow cool, no need to slow cool brazing with dry sand. And I suspect if you are using wet sand with trying to slow cool your braze, you are neither helping nor hurting anything. Just not needed and if it was needed, to be effective at slow cooling, it must be super dry.

I didn’t think it could be restored as well as you did. Awesome job.

I get odderly satisfied by watching rust removal... when i saw that big piece of rust, I knew I had to see this film - can you imagine my dissapointment when the removal part was two buckets and 30 seconds...

I love Weimaraners, had two. Smartest dingbat on the planet. LOL. Dopey, but lovable! Hehe I'm a retired blacksmith and have done some restos of my own. Good video.

This was definitely a very difficult restoration. I admire your tenacity

huh, never thought i'd see a turbo charged stationary wheel barrel

You did a wonderful job on that machine.

You have made my day. We spent some time in Lancaster Pa. and I watched a blacksmith making horse shoes back in about 1983. Who knows, he may have used that same forge. Great job of resto. Thanks fo the journey.

Those are grease cups/fittings - not for oil. The heat will dissipate the oil and dry your bearings. That chain looks a bit tight, maybe there's an adjustment. Great job, as always!

Good job on the restoration so many things are disappearing in our lives today! Keep up the good work 👍👍🤠🇺🇸

wow amazing craftsmen ship loved the video and the mickey pointer finger was an added bonus .

Great job on the blower. Love the dogs.

That is one neat restoration ...and usable ..hope it brings you a lifetime of use...

You have a Truly Righteous shop, I can only hope to have one like that someday.

I was wondering how 1890s people were forging back then . Thank you for uploading this.

Thanks for bringing the old girl back to life to serve once more :)

yea... that crank became a solid piece also, that ugh when that screw snapped off! ☺

Thanks for demoing it! That makes it even more interesting! And one is so curious to see what exactly it does since I had never seen one before!

We miss You on KZfaq. Youre a good person , You love dogs ❤️. And your videos are the best. please come back to us

Seeing you with your dogs makes me a happy man.

Nice work. If you are actually going to use it for forging, you should “clay” the pan. Add a layer or clay/ dirt/ kitty litter/ refectory cement to the pan. It should come up to almost the top of the pan and dish or bowl down to the clinker breaker. This will all for a firepot effect to contain you fire, move the fire up to were you can slide longer pieces into it and, most importantly, protect your pan from fast thermal cycles and keep it from cracking!

Might look into electrolysis for big projects like this. I have had it save me a few hours on large piece restorations and overall rust removal. Also saves a bit of cash on Rust remover. Kiddie pool from box store. Scrap steel from the shop. Helps get those big pieces in one go while you work on other tasks in shop. Great rebuild. I would be proud to have that in my shop.

I found this so interesting as my great grandfather was a blacksmith in the early 1900s and would probably have used something like this,thanks.

My friend you are the hardest working man I've seen in the last 20 years thank you for your work ethic it fun to watch You. Take care friend

Really enjoyed the restoration. I would however advise a 1/2” layer of Mizzou or some other hard refractory so it doesn’t crack again. Most old rivet forges had line with clay before use stamped right in the casting.⚒🔥⚒🔥👊🏻

It's always good to see you work.. Man brilliant and very nice job..

Excellent Job You saved a excellent piece of history and kept it very original. If you ever have a blade come loose put a small thin stainless flat washer on the opposite side after the rivit sticks thru the blade. You have to hold it snug while you squeeze the pop rivet on. Then you have a small flange on both sides of the pop rivet squeezing the blade in between FWIW. Also If you ever want to unscrew the legs in the future all you have to do was heat up the casting with your torch the legs will easily unscrew then. I have taken out more broken bolts and pipes etc with torches than you could ever believe. I learned from a guy with a muffler shop who was doing broken and rusted to death exhaust bolts on cylinder heads. Nice job !

Sir, Respectfully, I honor Smith's like you, & wanted to thank you for the education & outstanding / brilliant video uploaded. Sincerely, I learned something, I never knew, existed. Very awesome filming footage of the entire forge process, I feel as though, it was like, walking through, the entire process, seeing it all & learning how it was constructed & designed & how the functions work, in this, I've picked up, several of my own ideas & have begin to study more on how to design forges & make them, effective & efficiently. Thank you for the knowledge & sharing what you have, with us all Sir. Respectfully, / Sincerely. Signed : Paul~

Your personal craftsmanship is great and your ability to educate along the way is excellent....pet the dogs for me. Thanks from Kauai!

Also, I really like the spotlight of older restorations!

I was given a rivet forge with a champion blower and had to give it the same treatment. It had been a piece of yard art for many years in yucaipa california. It has been a good companion over the years of me owning it. I'm proud to own a piece of history. Good thorough job sir.

He ain't only one restored this forge legendry

Holy cow those are some beautiful dogs man, the grey one reminds me of an albino great dane that used to live in my old neighborhood named Pinky. She was such a good dog.

This is awesome. Great job. Thanks for sharing

I love the action with the finger that sets up the little piece !! 😎 Good job 👍

I am very happy someone with talent like you have ended up as the custodian of this historic tool! The condition it was in with all the extremely difficult to repair breaks and cracks would almost have a death sentence had you not found it! Great job, and thank you for your work!

That is great! What a ton of work on this one.

Craftsmanship 100% 👍🏻 Great video, loved it

One final sentence to type to you. Before there were grease fittings, they had those components that held grease in them. That's what the component you turned onto the one you tightened into the hole of that forge. Whenever that bearing needs to be lubricated, all you need to do is turn that upper cup, which was previously filled with grease it's pushed into the area surrounding the shaft that needs to be lubricated. I know this because when I was living on the farm on the eastern side of Welland, my father had a large saw. It had two of them. That large diameter blade was perhaps more than three feet wide that was driven by a belt that went to the PTO pulley. I had so much fun on that farm.

beautiful looking little forge

OMG I did not think you were going to get that chain off good job man.... That was fun to watch.. :)

I've got my great grandfather's, need to restore it. Great video

My Great grandfather ten Generations back was a Blacksmith who came from Mitchendorf Germany now in France to German Town near Philadelphia Pennsylvania Sep 21 1731aboard the good ship Britannia. you done a good work on that Mobile forge. I'm sure old Mathaes would have been proud of your work and amazed at the technology of 1890. today he would be freaking. thanks for the video.

I'm glad someone has the patience to do all this work to restore old machines and tools. I love watching it and using them but I would never have the patience to restore them.

WOW, your cast iron welding skills are definitely pro level work. It's been decades since I did it and it always drove me nuts with how patient you have to be when you do it.

You're a braver man than me, cast iron is notoriously brittle, I'm surprised how few "break offs" you had!

Love the look of the pullchain

Did a great job on that old forge!

Wow, what a project. I love antique tools because of practicality and longevity. And I think they are much better looking vthan plastic anyday. As rusty as it was the iron is thick was real solid back then without making it so thin that they rusted thru in 10 years. Manufacturers took great pride in making a quality tool up until the 1960s when plastics came in use. Now everything is disposable. Great video. I'm no expert but shouldn't you have put grease into bearing housing? Personally, I would have gone back to all black, but that is my taste. It came out very nice.thanks.

Why do I find these videos so relaxing?

It is always s a pleasure to see a craftsman at work I can watch this all day long 😊😊😊👏👏

It really is great that you saved this forge. It's not something that you see that often. Thanks.

Hi bro 👋👋👋very good restoration blacksmith forge 👍👍👍 the work has been done splendidly 🤝🤝🤝

When I start my forge,I ball up news paper and cover that with coal, light the paper, turn the crank to give it air and off we go. Try it.

I love watching him bring back to life, what someone forgot about

Thank you so much for saving this beautiful piece of history🙏

Handsome Weimaraners. Can't wait to see the bandsaw.

Where are the steaks? That would make a great BBQ. I love how you restore old tools. Keep up the good work. Tim

Con 129 años y sigue funcionando y sigue en el tiempo muy bueno tu video PULGAR ARRIBA por eso saludos desde ELJAGUEL ARGENTINA

You Sir are a Genius! I've learned so much from your Restorations, I still do. Thanks for that. Greetings from Germany and keep up that great Work! 😊👍

18:34 immediately got a little Jimmy DiResta feel for a second 👍

Lucky find! I've been searching for a decent forge like this for the past 10 years. I used to see them all the time as a kid. Every antique shop had one in decent shape for under a hundred bucks. Seems like nowadays they all either have major missing parts, holes rusted through the pan, or the seller wants $1000.

I use that cord knot trick all the time. Saves a pain in the ass.

Yo, really good rebuild!!! The other commentors are absolutely right about the cups being meant for grease though. The high heat of the forge will draw out the oil you used and leave you with empty cups that should have been packed with grease instead. Otherwise really spot on.🤗🤗🤗

Loved it when he snapped that little screw and went ooooh! That’s reality .

Brilliant job mate. Too many happy dogs always helps any work.

Wow Cast iron must last forever. I hope those were your belts and not some one else's. Thanks for sharing this with us.

You are my kind of man , I deal in rust on old tools so I understand the feeling when working on such things . I love what you did . you bring thing from the past back from the grave , Very Good'' fill your caps with grease and screw them down a half turn when you when you need to grease the shafts . thanks for showing this . I just love this type of things .

Brilliant job! Subscribed 👍 Would love to eventually have a forge and anvil etc

I love that your clamp says "clamp" on the side.

Nice job! The Thimble on the back you put oil in is a grease cup. You fill the cup and the top with grease and when you screw it together it forces grease to the shaft. Small turn now and again will lube the shaft. The other oil points look like they are t close to the heat for cups. About chains - The outside appearance doesn't matter. Even where it touches the cog it is still. It's the inside that's important. To loosen it you flex the chain sideways between your hands against the side plates the along its length as if you were bending it sideways. Work the whole length. Sometimes if you angle it ( like this: >) and twist it comes loose. Again great job. really like the welds.

This came out terrific! Can you say "Grillin'!" 😁😁😁

8:13 that sound everyone makes when you drop toast on the floor

I would love to see that planer being restored

Beautiful restoration job. It's good to see it put back into service.

Nice repair and now you have saved a piece of history and gained a forge

Impressive, I like how they upgraded it with the chain, you should upgrade it with a small electric motor! Not sure about the refractory lining for it, that's no my expertise. Definitely love how the end result turned out, great job!

Hello a great job the tools is perfect I love your work 👍👍👍from Germany 🇩🇪 👋👋👋Kai

I remember learning how to hammer weld using a forge like this many years ago.

Thank you for sharing this video, I had never seen a machine like this