Thanks for the kind comment, Arthur. I destroy lots of stuff while learning, so you're not alone. :)

@@jayphilipwilliams yeah, but I don't have any excuse!....

Hi. I'm glad you enjoyed the video. You said "...it'd be imperceptible." That's exactly why there shouldn't be any creep! Because we're talking about such tiny distances (the drawings are GROSSLY exaggerated-I probably should've pointed that out in the video). And the secondary angle helps with that, too. The secondary angle means that the sear has to move hardly any at all before the secondary angle is reached and it pops out from under the hammer. Having a curved surface on the sear nose simply prevents it from a) "wanting" to pop out from under the hammer hooks or b) having to lift the hammer out of the way, both bad things. However, the curved sear nose shouldn't contribute to creep, assuming you have a good secondary angle and the hammer hooks aren't too long.

Not sure I'll be able to feel a difference, but I'll let you know. Maybe a professional competitor could.

@@stevengibbons3845 Yeah, and I know I'm not explaining this correctly, but I thought the sear tip was supposed to have two angles and NOT be rounded!

That's the behavior I would expect. No problem if you don't mind creep.

good work

I didn't touch it. I left it at its factory setting. However, adjusting it should change the angle of the sear nose, thus changing how easily the sear comes out from under the hammer hooks, as I show in this video. However, I would recommend using the True Radius PRO sear jig rather than the Ed Brown jig. I have a video on that here: kzfaq.info/get/bejne/mOB8nJp_qti9nZs.html

Jay Philip Williams|||| Yeah, I’ve researched the TR Pro. It looks like the way to go, but I’m on a budget and it’s a big expense for a guy who may only do 2 or 3 trigger jobs in his lifetime.

@@jimm244 I totally understand, Jim. Let me say something else. I'm just a hobbyist, too, not a professional gunsmith. I would recommend you hop on over to forums.1911forum.com/forumdisplay.php?f=18 and ask this kind of question there (not that I mind trying to help). There are a few professional gunsmiths there and they'll definitely be able to answer any questions you may have. I'm guessing, however, that the screw you asked about will simply help you adjust the primary sear angle between positive, neutral, and negative. I think you'd need to try it as is, put it in the gun and see if the sear pops out on its own, or lifts the hammer when you pull the trigger, or if it's neutral. Then, adjust it from there. One other thing, I just read today that you really want more like .100" (or a little more) on the shim for the secondary angle. That will keep the sear nose from sinking too deep under the hammer hooks, thus requiring more effort to get the sear to pop out from behind the hammer hooks.

Hey, John. The True Radius PRO jig will give you the best quality trigger pull in combination with being safe. It doesn't HAVE to be only 2 pounds. I agree that that is very light, at least for my purposes. You can make it heavier by simply increasing how hard the triple spring is pushing forward on the trigger bow.

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@Yusuf Noah instablaster ;)

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@Yusuf Noah glad I could help :)

That's correct. The triple spring will still be applying pressure to the sear, holding it against the hammer, and so it (the sear nose) will fall into that notch, stopping the hammer from striking the firing pin. Colloquially, it's called the "half-cock notch," although I don't believe that's the technical name for it, and I don't have my books handy.

@@jayphilipwilliams for some modern 1911, they also have a firing pin block. unless the trigger is pulled, the firing pin will not hit the cartridge even if they hammer happens to strike the firing pin. Good to know an 100 year old design 1911 has a lot of fail safe in place.

I would ask on 1911Forum, or someplace like that: www.1911forum.com/forums/gunsmithing-troubleshooting.18/

You need way more precision than you could get that way. A jig and a stone will give you that.

I believe most if not all of them would drop in and function fine. I would recommend calling Brownell's or Midway (or wherever you buy parts) and ask them, though. You'll usually get a better trigger if you do some work on it, but I don't think it's usually a requirement.