Thank you.

Thanks for the comment and for helping to spread the word.

Where do you get supplies for zinc plating? Could you do a video tutorial on zinc plating?

@@GABRIELGIESEL I get supplies from Caswell plating. Sure I can do a video. I have some stuff I'm working on right now that I can video.

@@chickenhousemechanic awesome. Look forward to it

@@chickenhousemechanic when you paint your parts do you put a primer on them or just paint them with industrial epoxy ?

I've seen that tool in the manual. I tried making one using measurements I found online and it was wrong. I keep my eyes out for one so maybe one day I'll have one. Thanks for the comment too.

My first thought when reading your comment is, is the spring in the control valve coil binding since you said if you loosen the baffle plate on the cylinder it allows enough room for the position to be set. I don't think adding washers would help you any unless you put them between the plate and cylinder but that may have negative effects on operation. Did you change the cam follower pin? That only contacts the cam during position control and can cause the measurements to be off. I noticed on my position spring there is a washer there which i do not see in the parts manual. You could try adding a washer there to see if it helps.

@@chickenhousemechanic Thanks. I might try that. Very grateful for your help.

@@chickenhousemechanic I tried two washers first on the position spring rod. Increased the spring tension to more than enough. Reduced to one and it seemed pretty much to spec. Able to set the gap now. I think the linkage is worn and the originally designed spring tension is now just a little too low to overcome the binding that occurs from things not being exactly lined up to factory specs. Thanks very much for your help.

@@pklussier good to hear you got it to work.

Its possible you have a sticking valve somewhere. I'm not familiar with the hydraulics on the later models though to offernyou much direction.

Not sure which transmission you have but the 5 speed transmission has a square plate near the front of the transmission that has 4 bolts and a cotter pin in it. Thats just an inspection plate. Don't think the 4 speed has that. On the rear end center section there is a plate with 5 bolts that houses the hydraulic pressure relief valve. I show that plate and valve in this video. m.kzfaq.info/get/bejne/rbd-qqSW1tCVep8.html

Many thanks for your great advice...you have made my 600 project much more fun. And, now that the engine is running, the hydraulics work great thanks to the guidance in your videos. Almost ready to get to work.

@@account11455 glad to hear it. Always fun working these old tractors.

The valve you are talking about, one with the 3/8 thread, ins't technically a valve. I think I refer to it as a spool valve but it's actually just a plug that looks like a valve, hence the reason it has to be pulled out and pressed in. As for the function of the other two valves in that port, the first one is the check valve. It functions to hold oil in the lift cylinder and hold the arms lifted and only works when you raise the lift. The 2nd valve behind the plug is the back pressure valve. It's purpose is to maintain a low oil pressure for positioning the unload valve in the cylinder, I show that in one of my other videos. Both valves are closed when the lift is in neutral, not raising or lowering. However when the pressure in front of the back pressure valve reaches a cerain value the valve will open allowing oil to bypass and return to the reservoir. On the other hand the check valve will open at 115 psi during the lifting procedure to allow oil to flow around it into the lift cyclinder. That's kind of a summary of it. The large red service manual explains it more in depth and has a few oil flow drawings to help make sense of it.

Thank you so much for the clarification it makes complete sense now. I think I can put everything back together correctly. @@chickenhousemechanic

I just finished servicing the top cover on my 850 yesterday but I didn't go as in-depth as you did. The issue I was trying to address was that when I am grading my driveway with a back blade the three point doesn't stay set. It slowly settles. It will sag a little bit then jerk up, sag, jerk, etc. I figured it was the o-ring and leather on the piston so I replaced those as well as all the other o-rings in the assembly. One thing I missed, however, was the "valve" that is inside the check valve on the front of the cover. I did pull the check valve out, cleaned it, replaced the o-ring, and re-installed it. I never pulled the inside "valve" out. Could this be the culprit in why my three point settles? By the way, I took it for a test drive on the driveway after I was done working on it and it still settles. Not as bad (maybe) but it still does. Another thing I should mention is that the o-ring kit I bought didn't seem to have the right size for the check valve. It seemed to fit kind of loose in the bore. It doesn't seem like this is much of an issue since the o-ring is basically just a seal here.

I believe they are the same as the blue and orange fordson dexta tractors.

So best I can tell it’s the same except for very small differences with top plate and the back of the cylinder.

Never tried it so I'm not sure. I've seen some rigged stuff on the internet but not sure what it was for or how it was controlled.

Thanks. Glad I could help. As for the clutch I have multiple videos that show me taking the clutch out for a select-o-speed and then reinstalling a dual stage clutch. One video has me changing the flywheel ring gear and installing the dual stage clutch onto the engine. I dont really have a step-by-step video though.

Not sure if they're the same or not on a dexta. I've never worked on one of those.

Those bolts are 7/16"-20 and 11/16" long. Hardware stores will most likely carry bolts that are 3/4" long and those should be fine.

I've never had an engine load up when using the 3 point. Sounds to me like the remote hydraulic might be the issue. If you have the original top/block off plate I'd put that on there and try your lift.

That's the original check valve. You'd probably have to get that from a new holland dealer or find a used one. I don't know of any aftermarket ones.

I'm assuming you are talking about the arm that the turnbuckle is pinned to. If so then yes it will slide some on a bushing at the end of a spring. In the video at minute 40 you can see the arm and the bushing.

@@chickenhousemechanic Many thanks...we're getting a few steps closer.

The first valve installed is the back pressure valve. The service manual says its function is to maintain a low pressure in the system for the unloading valve to work. The 2nd valve is a check valve and is designed to hold oil in left cylinder to hold arms in a raised position. Manual says that valve only operates during a raising cycle. The factory service manual gives operating principles on the systems if you'd like more detailed descriptions. Way too much to type and it's probably copyrighted as well.

@@chickenhousemechanic Thank You so much - you do a great job! Hoping I can find a similar one on a 3000 3 cyl diesel.

@@vettepiper6752 thank you. Glad I could help.

Thanks for the comment. As for the shaft, the part# NCA517B. As for a vendor, you'll have to check Google since I don't see any aftermarket ones available and oem is very expensive. With that being said, I'd check eBay. I bought all the internals for a top cover for around $50 last year. To plate the shaft I used a copy cad kit from Caswell Plating.

The arms are keyed to the rock shaft with a master spline. Not sure if there's another arm that doesn't have that master spline or not that would allow it to be clocked 1 spline off. Without measuring it, I want to say the lift arms on my 861-D set about 4 inches off the ground when fully lowered and tractor is off.

@@chickenhousemechanic thank you , not sure what I will do for now

Only place that would possibly have them new would be a New Holland dealer. Will probably have to purchase them used though.

Yes these are the same for any 801 series tractors including the 861.

Hard to say really. Did you make sure all parts are in good condition before you adjusted the top cover including a new cam pin? Does the pump produce good pressure? Do you see any leaks when looking into through the pto shifter hole while running tractor? You could have a valve sticking also but I'd check the easy stuff first as there's not really a good way to test the valves themselves.

@@chickenhousemechanic after watching your vids I decided to get another top cover kit of o-rings and start from scratch. As far as the pump, I rebuilt it also but I’m not sure how to check the pressure if one of the relief valves is not holding. The pto cover I’m going to try before pulling it apart again. At least I know the pressure and return lines are good. When I got the tractor the hydraulics were not working and the reservoir had a fair bit of water in it, hence the rusted holes lines that I replaced.

Thank you. I got parts from New holland, just8ns, all state ag parts, and McMaster-Carr.

​@chickenhousemechanic thank you!

Might have some air in the system. My 861 still does it after its set a while. Usually will stop after working it a while.

Looks like they're available from New holland and a couple aftermarket suppliers but they're not cheap. Salvage yard might be best route. I don't have any laying around to measure to see about generic springs. The parts numbers are NCA962B and NCA645A. Also check ebay. Some guys sell the internal parts of the hydraulic top covers and a striped cover that might have good springs in them.

Glad to hear you got some stuff fixed. I do not sell any parts though.

1966 ford 4000

Usually jerking is air in system or too thick of oil since you've rebuilt everything. If you didn't have it rebuilt I'd say check for leaking cylinder o-rings.

There are probably videos out there explaining it. I do not have one. The simplest way to explain draft is allowing the inplement to float across the ground when the tractor goes up hill and down hill vs the implement. The more detailed version version is when the implement meets more resistance the implement tends to pitch forward at the top and that pushes on the top link and the rocker assembly. That in turn causes the spool valve inside the lift cylinder to move and makes the lift rise slightly on its own to pull the implement out of the ground and overcome the resistance it is facing. The same also happens when the implement tilts backwards such as when the tractor is nose down. The spool valve slides the opposite way causing the lift to fall. It doesn't push the implement into the ground since these tractors do not have downward hydraulic pressure.

3-jaw puller and torch is usually needed to remove the arms.

Yes, first one surrended today. Torch + sledge hammer + wedges + WD40. Really stucked. Second one shall wait over night with Woodoo40. How about the ram in the middle?

@@jeepeeam31 the center rocker usually comes off pretty easily.

Not sure if the shaft is the same or not. I'd say they're pretty close though. Best way to remove a stuck arm is heat and a 2 jaw puller. A puller with the link rod between the arm works best since you can tighten the rod to help the arms of the puller stay onto what you're pulling. Spraying some rust penetrant onto the splines will also help.

@@chickenhousemechanic The exterior arms in your video do look same as mine. But there is nowhere for puller to grab on to. Have used penetrating oil and probably will need heat to remove. Thanks.

@@mozit6 yeah there's not much room to get a puller behind them. You'll have to really force the jaws behind them. Maybe even hammer the jaw in. Once one of them starts to move there should be enough play to get behind both of them.

@@chickenhousemechanic ok, just don't want to damage arm or cover in the process. Thanks again.

Since the arms lift I'd say it's probably an adjustment issue. I've not worked on a hydraulic system on one of those tractors so I can't tell you exactly what may be out of adjustment.

No I haven't had to do that yet.

I have and it is a bit of a booger

For the pressure tube, tap it with a 7/16 fine tap. Use a threaded rod and a variety of pipe, socket, etc and a nut to create a jack screw. I ended up putting the jack nut on, tightened down the pipe, then added 2 nuts jammed together to keep the rod from turning. It will pop and creak while jacking the tube out, it is very tight. Once you get it loose it will slide out and the tube is around 24” long, it will clear the oil pan. Installing the new pressure tube, it will have to be driven in but the first 18 to 20” will go easy, the tube is machine tapered for a tight fit, when you drive it in if you don’t have a dealer fitted drive punch and who does, make one to fit inside and rest snugly on the edge of the tube. Drive it in till it is flush with the front of the bell housing. Viola, you’ve installed the pressure tube, Return line is harder due to its bigger. If you have access to a tap set that is big enough them proceed in the same fashion as the pressure tube, if not you’ll have to separate the transmission from the hydraulic reservoir and drive it out then install new tube in reverse order. I ordered my line from broken tractor, they were properly machined to fit. Be careful some may try to sell you lines that aren’t machined, that are just plain tubes that won’t fit. Hope this helps, I’ve had my apart over and over replacing worn out or broken parts and still won’t work, but I’ve learned scads of assembly tricks.

I'm not 100% sure. Those use the same gasket kit but don't know if those are designed the same or not.

Only thing I can think of that would cause that is something binding up in the dog bone to rocker area. Any hydraulic issues should've tripped the pressure relief valve. I doubt you had the piston crooked because it would've been a real bear to install. I'm assuming you tested it without an implement attached also. The lift arms should move easily when installed also when lifted off the piston. Thatll make the dog bone fall out of the piston but it should realign itself easily.

@@chickenhousemechanic It has me puzzled. Thanks for the reply though. And yes everything was unloaded. The only thing I know I didn’t do correctly was put the seat bolts back in but I’m not sure that would have caused that much of a problem would it? I know the back bolt is supposed to adjust something on the inside.

@@trevorgarner2829 seat bolts don't adjust anything. Factory is just studs that screw into the top cover and are away from anything that moves. They set just below the surface underneath. If you had a long bolt in it that may have been a problem.

@@chickenhousemechanic I didn’t have the seat back on yet. I was gonna try it before I went ahead and put it all the way back together. I guess I will give it another shot when I get the new one. Keeping my fingers cross! 😅

@@trevorgarner2829 yeah definitely don't want to do that again. Thatll add up quick.

The small L shaped lever should have a groove cut in it for a detent ball. There is a spring and ball under the flat head screw just above the position/draft lever.

Measurements for gauge are in video at minute 45.

The adjustments are the same as well as all the hard parts. They have different functions on the tractor though.

I'd check with Mike Smith Implements on Facebook. He'd be someone who can help you with that. If he can't he probably knows someone who can.