those Ford Y blocks were nearly indestructable OHV v8

Thanks man always interesting content cheers.

Great video! Lots of great information on the workings of the Ford!👍

It makes a lot of sense 👍

good talk, keep moving forward.

Also I just came across your channel and like what I see . So I subscribed,👍

Never thought about it this way. I always like your videos. I spent my whole adult life in Ford parts and service. I used the double sump mustang pan on my own build. I had herd to never use more than a stock pump on a Ford before but never herd about the air getting into the pick up tube before. It does make sense but… the cars that used these pans from the factory would run 300,000 miles if taken care of no problem. So if it does get the air into the pick up after sitting it doesn’t hurt much from my experience at the dealership. I have seen what your talking about with the oil pressure and I was always told it’s how the ford oil pump spring worked. I am in no way saying your wrong just trying to make sense of the air after sitting. I totally agree with you on the windage tray and oil pans. I used a screen type windage tray on my build but I always use roller cams. I wanted the oil to be able to drain back quickly so I went with that screen type. Food for thought for sure brother. It’s nice to see someone building these old Fords and keeping a Ford motor in them. Everyone I worked with would go on and on about how tuff the 460 is. I have never owned a V8 other than a Windsor or Mod motor but I would love to play with a FE some day.

Lol good video Kim

Every HP MOPAR had a windage tray maybe before 1968. A windage tray will help keep the oil from getting whipped into a froth.

I circle track raced windsor ford s with rear sump pans for years and(blew some up to) and used hi volume pumps some i even upped spring pressue never twisted off a pump drive even once and had lots of baffles in pan never saw low oil pressure come on (comes on at 20 psi) i race chevs now (cheaper) and i have lite coming on in corners more now i usually over fill to stop it both have there own issues but disagree with ur asumptions on ford but i like that have opinions on it

Does a crankscraper cause the same problem as a windage tray?

I'm using Ford! And Mopar, And Chevy, And......

I tried asking David Vizard about if knife edging cranks applies to all manufacturers. But he never responds unless it's something negative🤬. Seems he has a problem with our kind.

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Oh dear lord where to begin... Kim I love ya man, but I'm gonna have to disagree with almost 85% of the stuff you said. You know I've been a lifelong Fordman and have my fair share of knowledge and experience. Gonna try to be brief... ugh.. First off... oil slosh... You need in the realm of 1G on a launch to uncover the oil pickup. In order to achieve 1G which is like 22 or 32 feet per second...(can't remember for sure) but basically you gotta be putting down sub 2sec 60-foot times. Now if you are putting down those kinda times, do you really expect us to believe you are not taking the time to run baffles in the oil pan? Because for every action, there's a reaction. Sudden slowdown or braking is gonna do the same thing to a SBC... And do you really think the oil just stays in the bottom of a SBC sump on acceleration? Nope! At 1G or more it's crawling up the back wall up into the crank.... excessive windage! Oiling systems... Oh boy. Again, SBC BBC get a huge F. And so does the center oiler FE. SBC oils the crank and rods last. Oil goes right up to the top end then gets branched out and last stop is the crank and rods. Hence why you see the cranks blown out of them, or half the build budget is spend on the rotating assy of a SBC. Also, like the FE the cam gets priority oil, then to the crank/rods second. Not a good situation, hence the creation of the FE side oiler where they are both oiled at the same time. Don't get me started on the Chevrolet dancing camshaft.... The 335 and 385 series hit the #1 cam and main bearings FIRST, then to the passenger lifter bank using it as a distribution point/log sending branches down to the center of the #2-#5 main/cam bulkheads oiling them both at the same time then also hitting a crossover at the #4 bulkhead over the top to oil the driver lifter bank. There's an oil port at the very rear that can be used to measure oil pressure from, at the vary end of the line. Windsors are basically the same as 335/385 except the branches from the passenger bank go directly to the mains then the mains feed the cam bearings. Typically truck pans of the late 70s-90s take 6-8 qts of oil. Hard to imagine the pickup ever being uncovered for any normal reason, and i have yet to have ever heard the pickup tube... collecting air unless that engine is loose as a goose with a smoked oil pump you could send shellac through. Ford wasn't trying to utilize anything about the rear sump other than getting the engine to fit the redesigned chassis'. The mustang II and prior years were a 60/40 weight distro, the fox became 59/41, but the fox suspension was a complete redesign. Same with trucks/vans, in '80 ford was working to shorten the nose of its vehicles, going a little more cab-forward in their designs. BTW- the distributor doesn't have to run the oil pump...(look at many Inline engines) it's just cheaper and easier to do so. And yes... WHY Ford ran such a puny drive rod in it's 385 series is beyond me.. The FE and 351W recieved larger dia drive rods. No clue why...? For your build, throw the nose in the air.... its not gonna hurt anything because the driveline is setup on the "plane" of the chassis... not the ground. Irreguardless of the way the vehicle sits, the engine/trans sits at a down-to-the-rear angle of 3-5 degrees. Any more is not necessary. IF you measure a Ford with a STOCK intake manifold you will find that most are 3-5* leaned forward with pan rail level. Some applications up to 7* (Early Tbird for example). Correct the carburetors by making or buying wedged spacers. Putting the carbs sideways will NOT fix the situation as 1/2 of the carb will be starved of fuel (1 fwd primary and 1 fwd secondary)rather then equally across the front. (jet extensions fix this on fwd facing units) The driveshaft can be at whatever angle it likes as long as the tail shaft and rear end pinion are at equal but opposing angles. The joint itself has a maximum operating angle to where a double joint, or double-cardan rather, commonly used on SWB 4wd applications will become necessary on the front of the shaft only. Well... so much for summary. Probably missed a bunch of other stuff i wanted to cover, but here's the brunt.... There ya go!