Hey there! Thanks so much for your kind words! Well, you can clean almost anything in the ultrasonic cleaner. The device basically agitates the water with soap (or what you put in the tank) very fast. Usually, you don't want to put a power cord in there, but this time worked because the conductor and prongs were perfectly sealed in rubber. They poured the rubber over the conductors and prongs. Otherwise, you want to keep the ends of the cable out of the cleaner. I liked the lamp too, when I saw it laying in the garage.. now it looks awesome on my desk :) I am happy that you found the description useful.. I thought nobody would bother to read it. If there's any other info you need, write me here, I'm happy to respond!

Thanks so much!! :)

Thank you so much! :)

Thanks 😄

Thanks so much! :) I will give it a try!

Thank you so much! :) The lamp shade is red actually, but because of the light bulb it renders a nice orange light.

Thank you so much! :)

Hey! Thanks so much! :) That is a mindblowing idea! White opaline glass (or white-bluish) would indeed look amazing! Also, the 3D printed light shade can be used only with LED bulbs.. I had an incandescent bulb in the video, but didn't leave the lamp on for too long. I WILL hold on to your idea and maybe I can find someone who can make an opaline lamp shade for me :) And I'll come back with a video or a short!

Thank you! 😊 I love your work too! :)

Thanks, man! That means a lot to me! :) My mechanics is my favorite channel!

I think so too! Thanks so much! :)

Thanks so much, man! :) This means a lot to me!

Hey! Thanks for the comment! Well, ABS will melt at about 200 degrees. Most probably I will use an LED bulb, but it would be cool to do a test with the incandescent one. The bulb in the video is a 42W halogen bulb. I will make a short video. Great idea! Thanks :)

Hey! Thanks for sharing this with us! From what I know, the best practice is with using ferrules, but I never had any issue with solder deforming over time with these type of connections.. You got me curious :) I will do some tests. Also, it may be a good idea to come back after a while and re-tighten the screws. I've seen a lot of people leaving stranded wire just twisted with screw terminals. That is surely terrible :) (as not all wires catch the screw / pressure plate) Good and safe connections are most important! THANKS again! :)

I think it's from the same period as the lamp 60s - 70s.. It has brass thread and the glass is "wavy". It was coated in red, but it flaked off. I don't think it's the original bulb though, the one that came with the lamp, but it's old indeed.

Yes, that is a good idea, but I went with the original design. I made sure, though, that none of the wires can ever touch the metal chasis, and everything is rated minimum 250V/2A, so 500W. I will use only LED light bulbs because of the 3D printed lamp shade, so it should be fine. I also have a differential breaker in my main electrical panel, so, in case of anything, it should quickly disconnect. For everything else, I use only grounded appliances :) I also like to keep track where my live wire is, so I always put it to the right in my mains outlets.

Thanks bro! :)

probably.. :) who knows

:D

Hi! Thanks for sharing! Well, this cable was completely watertight, that is why the copper strands didn't oxidize in over 60 years. And that is reason why I chose this cleaning method. Otherwise, I would have gone for the traditional brushing method. Yes, I am 100% pro-earthing :) I've got everything earthed in my house, even the ceiling lights :) But as for this lamp, I wanted to keep it as original as I could, of course, making sure that all the wires are safely isolated from the chassis. Also, the cable is rated 500w, so any lightbulb (even incandescent) should not heat it up. As a last resort, I hope my differential breaker will do its job :)

Its the corrosion that is bad not just water

Yes, you are right, but the copper wire, being completely sealed in rubber (rubber was poured around the copper strands), had no contact with water or corrosion agents. The only part of the cable in contact with water and dish soap was the wire ends (which I stripped before to check the wire). The little corrosion that might have formed on those ends during cleaning was then quickly removed by applying flux and solder wire, sealing everything perfectly. :). How do I know the copper wire was perfectly sealed in rubber? The cable is over 60 years old, and if any air got in side between the copper and the wire, the copper wire wouldn't have been perfectly clean when I stripped the ends for checking. That's how I knew I could clean it this way without any problems.

It is stranded copper wire, so on the open end there is no seal between each strand, meaning that water can wick up the wire between the strands.

I see what you mean. But water would only be between the "open" strands (from the end of the wire, that has the rubber stripped away). The water can get between these strands only at the stripped end, but will not get further up the wire (this specific wire), because the rubber seals it. If it was not perfectly sealed, the wire would definitely present signs of corrosion, after 60+ years of being stored in a humid environment. But when I cut the wire and stripped 1m of rubber away at the end, the strands were "like new". So I assume the seal should be perfect. But yes, if I had no way to test this, I would not soak the wire in water. But this wire, I don't know where and how it was made, but it seems it's very high quality. I was almost sure I would find corrosion and discard it. :) Also, between the strands themselves, a couple of mm into the un-stripped wire, water can get there, but when I apply flux, together with solder to the end, that gets inside too and replaces the possible little corrosion that can form there, dries everything and seals, soldering all the wire ends into one. If I was to use a ferrule instead of soldering, yes, this wouldn't have been a good idea.

Hi! This was just for the video, it was a 42w bulb that I had around. I did indeed fit it with an LED bulb because the ABS lampshade will melt eventually :). Although.. I am a fan of halogen light, it seems more pleasant to the eye, but not for this project.

​​@@ovi-diy what about a filament led bulb? You get the aesthetic of a halogen bulb, but without the heat or power consumption, and it has the retro look that would look great with this lamp

That is an awesome idea! Thanks buddy! :)

The filament was continous electrically, but mechanically it looked very stretched and was hanging loose. I don't know how it would behave when burning out. Some older bulbs used go "bang" :), and the glass would also crack. So, a new bulb is safer.. I guess. Also, for my 3d printed lamp shade, I need to put an LED bulb, because the bulb from the video would melt it..

Who knows how long the old bulb would have lasted. And yes they can pop and break. Better to be safe

Thanks for the comment and for your opinion. I am sorry that you don't agree with the way I did the electrical job. When you do a restoration, it is most important to keep as much of the object original. Yes, safety is paramount. That is why I thoroughly checked every part (cable, switch, light bulb socket) to be 100% sure that they are safe. Also, that is why I put additional heatshrinks on almost all the wire ends. By "not isolated" (that is what the translation told me), I think you meant not grounded (earthed). You want to ground an electrical appliance so, if you touch the chassis and has 230V / 110V on it, you don't get electrocuted. But, the way I wired this lamp, there is absolutely 0% chance of electric shock. Everything is perfectly insulated and the wires are rated 500w (and the switch 2000w). For the video I used a 42w light-bulb, but I will use 3W LED with this lamp. So there is 0% chance for a wire to melt, or the switch. The switch was fine, but I cleaned every piece anyway. Perfect condition. So, there is no reason to ground this lamp. Also, if you go down to IKEA, most of their lamps are not grounded. Secondly, a well built electrical wiring in any house features a differential breaker. A differential breaker detects wether the same current drawn by the live wire is returned through the neutral wire. If there is more than 30mA difference, it quickly disconnects. When the live wire is in contact with your skin, some of the current wants to go through you to the ground (and electrocute you). This means that way less than 30mA of the current from the live wire will return through the neutral wire. So you get disconnected before you get electrocuted. Basically, if you house wiring is done OK, you can stick a finger into the live wire hole in the wall outlet and not feel anything. Also, the legal system depends from country to country. In Romania, you were not required to have grounding (earthing) in your houses until recently. 90% of the people still don't have.. unfortunately. Cheers! :)