If you want your movie film transferred to digital the right way, send it to a real professional, not Legacybox or Kodak Digitizing. Brad Miller of Film-Tech Cinema Systems scanned this Super 8 film to 1080p HD and 2160p Ultra HD using a Lasergraphics Scanstation Pro 6.5K and applied color correction to it, and even without more advanced processing to clean up the image, I'm amazed at the quality of the results.
Brad's KZfaq channel FT Depot has other films he's scanned: / ftdepot and here was the e-mail he sent me detailing the conversion of this film:
"The resolution on this print is quite low for Super 8mm. Actual reversal home movies, especially those shot on Kodachrome 25 and Kodachrome 40 look impressive for how small the image on the film is, but this is a reduction print dupe of a dupe so it's more soft than typical 8mm film. Regardless, the 1080P file is plenty high enough resolution to capture all of the available data on this film, but I've included a 4K version of the scan as well if you will be watching on a 4K monitor and don't want to upscale.
I think you will find the image cropping differences between the MovieStuff scanner used at Legacybox to the Film-Tech scan quite shocking. We actually had to crop a little bit more than typical around the edges of your image due to the various garbage in the aperture of the camera, but even with that when you compare the two scans, the MovieStuff scanner cropped off almost half of the available image volume on the film. (And FYI the little black line you see in the upper right corner is printed INTO the film. It isn't a "hair in the gate" of the scanner.)
Also surprising, Legacybox didn't even transfer the first 13 seconds of your film.
As we always do, we did a courtesy basic color correction. As films fade over time besides the colors fading, the overall density is lost as well, so blacks become light grey and lights become washed out. This is why you may compare the two scans and the Legacybox might appear "brighter" in some shots. Our density compensation should be pretty close to the film print from when it was originally manufactured though. (All of the white lines and marks you see on the image is dirt and scratches on the negative these prints were struck from.)
Finally, your film doesn't have any splices in it. The various "jumps" you see in our transfer are literally splices that were pre-printed into the film. (A really bad jump example is at 0:13 in our file.) Any image bounciness you see in our file is also printed into the film.
Note - We included a silent audio track on the H264 file, as we have found occasionally there is player or editor software that doesn't like mp4 files without an audio track.
Should you decide to post some side by side clips on a followup video, it would be appreciated if you could mention that Film-Tech did the followup comparison scan. ( www.film-tech.com | / ftdepot ) There are a lot of these "professional video transfer companies out there, and most of them are nothing more than a guy working in his garage to wildly varying levels of quality, usually with homebrew equipment rigs.
Thanks,
Brad"