Hi thank you for the feedback. I am fan of Fleischmann as well . I will be shooting a video on servicing a Fleischmann British Rail Warship class loco soon . I have a lot more loco's to service, just don't have the time .. Thank you for comments .. Here is my email , please send me some pictures of your collection, maybe I can shoot a video of it ? .. Anthonyshobbycorner@gmail.com Regards - Anthony

Hi Rainer , Sorry for the late response . I am so glad to connect with so many Fleischmann enthusiasts . I'm glad you found this video helpful . Regards, Anthony

Auch meine 1st!

Me, too. But it did not survive our change to Trix Express in the 1970s. Today I am a Fleischmann fanboy.

Thank you . yes, I have seen the green ones, but not have had an opportunity to get one yet . These things are noisy but fun to run .. brings back memories of the 70's .

I hope you enjoy running you MV9 .. these little loco's are tanks .. give them a good cleaning , and away they go ..

@@anthonyshobbycorner Old "girl" need some love ...and she'll get it in the near future .....Thank you for your answer ...Keep up with your excellent work!!!!👍👍

Hi Graham , Appreciate the kind words and comments. You are correct , the traction tires are a bit of problem . I did purchase some traction tires from an European model train store , just when I heard that Fleischmann was being purchased by RoCo etc ... But what I have found that works very well as an alternative is Electrical shrink tubing for electrical wiring . I cut a thin slice of it and put it over the wheel and apply a little heat , and it just grabs onto the wheel. .. I would love to hear more about your vintage Fleischmann collection .. I am a fan of Fleischmann as well , and have been trying to secure some vintage pieces when ever I get a chance ... they are so simple to work on , and as long as you service them , they keep on going , and going ... Thanks Regards, Anthony .

I'm sure people know a lot more about Fleischmann HO than me ,but I can just tell my story. Perhaps drip feed this as I remember it . My favourite loco (lok) is 4169 . I bought one new in the late 80's for around £105. This was a lot of money at the time and I had sold my British collection which didnt run very well .So my locos went from about 20 loco' s to 5. It stayed in box for 2 years and I then sold everything . Only to regret it over the years. My latest was bought in excellent used condition from EBay a few years ago . The surprise was the fitted suethe smoke unit. This provides great fun as it blows the occassional perfect smoke ring .My grandchildren I love it It runs perfectly and has Nem coupler sockets .. I am very very pleased with it,. I realised a collection was being sold over time and bought a 50 loco a year later from the same seller .As expectated this came with smoke.More to follow if ok Graham

@@mostlymonkey Wow .. that's an amazing story .. So your fleischmann fleet grew from 5 to 50 .. Wow ... Impressive . The 4169 is a beautiful locomotive 4-6-2 with the silver rings on the boiler. I believe it is a tender drive correct ? . That is one loco that is on my list to obtain . I was concerned about the 4 axel tender which is on a single fixed frame . Since the drive wheels cannot pivot , I was wondering if it can negotiate a 22 inch radius . Either way , If you are trying to get a hold of the service sheets or even information on the loco's and Era's when they manufactured etc , Let me know ... I will try to get them for you . Regards, Anthony .

You might also look for FLM 4170 - loco number 01-220 . This is an older brother of 4169 . I have just been comparing the 2. The older model has slightly larger wheel flanges, no NEM pockets and no close coupling between tender and loco. I don’t know about your local market for FLM, but 4170 is usually cheaper ( 25%?) . FLM is a well thought out system and locos will run on first radius curves .FLM have 3rd and 4th radius but this was added later . It is worth buying some old product catalogues . I have a range but having them all is not needed . The one I’m looking at right now is 79/80 . I also have 58/9, 62/3, 67/68, 66/67, and later ones . My most used is 95/96 which is now falling apart . I have no really old FLM stock to comment on the very large wheel flanges and whether they run well on modern track . I’m thinking of 1950’s . My own stock is all ok , even the 1/82 scale . I would say any loco starting with 4 in its catalogue number will be ok . My collection includes many starting with 1. And many appear in the 58/9 catalogue. So I may be over cautious . FLM ‘s own track will always be ok. There is also the XL type loose page explanation of the system/ layout cat no. 9925 (HO) and 9957 (n). Don’t pay silly prices for theses . I think most catalogues really explain most of it . The tender question is also answered by the last set of wheels sliding horizontally making the tender a shorter wheelbase . Best wishes Graham

@@mostlymonkey Wow , Graham , you are a wealth of knowledge when it comes to FLM's .. My oldest i believe is the FLM 1340 Baldwin (Black) . Still runs , has seen a lot of run time , but I do enjoy all the sounds which have developed due to play between the gear wheels etc .. Adds character to it .. I presume you are a member of the FLM HO Club ? I joined them , as they have a ton of online catalogs and service sheets for all the loco's and the HO database is very useful to figure out which Era and when the loco was manufactured etc ... I did not know that the last set of wheels slide horizontally .. that means I should be able to run it on my layout no issues .. Which means I need to get find one on ebay ... In Canada , FLM aren't as popular ... most modelers here tend to go for North American manufactures and model loco's ... I run a mixed bag , and must admit that I do have a soft spot for European models made by FLM , RoCo, Brawa , Rivarossi , Trix etc .. I even have a few Marklin Hamo's ... they are like tanks .. So just to confirm the 4169 does have NEM pockets right ? here is my email address ( Anthonyb1019@gmail.com ). IF you get a chance , send me some pics of your collection , I would love to see it ... Regards, Anthony

Hi Nigel , You are correct. there were 2 variations used by Fleischmann to mount the shell onto the chassis . Once was using the screws, and the other was to use screw on buffers . They are very simple loco's and if you service them regularly , they will keep going and going . I Believe there is another shorter ( stubbier ) version of the MV9 called the V42 I believe .. Regards, - Anthony -

Thank you so much .. very much appreciate the kind words ... Regards, - Anthony.

Hi , Thank you for the comments . You are correct . you can remove the magnet and housing ring from the frame . I did that for the 2 other 1306's which I have . I did not do that for this one , as it looked pretty clean inside the magnet area . One thing I was not aware of how to separate the commutator .. So thank you for sharing that with me .. So what you are suggesting is to increase the gap between the commutator segments ? Or are you stating that you can actually remove the Commutator disk from the coils ? Please let me know .. I am very interested to find out more about the tip you shared . Since you have a couple of these , Did you notice that the wheels are not properly level ? as mine tend to wobble a bit, loosing connectivity when it wobbles . Did you also have that issues ? Also , all 3 of mine came with screws and not buffers ... which is weird . So they must be the 1st edition of I guess ... What are your thoughts ? I bought all 3 from different people , so i could not be a home fix . Thank you for your comments / feedback ... Regards, - Anthony -

@@anthonyshobbycorner Hi, is ment indeed that the coil can be pushed out of the magnet ring so all of the inside can be cleaned, All wheels are level form me so no contact loss luckily. To be Honest i dont know if there are version with screws instead of buffers. might be early versions indeed.

@@anthonyshobbycorner Yes: but does removing the rotor weaken the magnet? In all the refurbishing articles I have seen, no one has recharged the decades old magnets, and no one has checked to see if the windings are grounding to the rotor. Also, little mention is made of brush replacement or factors involved in re-manufacture. What all these things have in common, apart from improving running, is that they affect current draw. High current draw can start fires. In this case, new brushes and springs are easily available. New springs matter because the old ones might have lost temper; new brushes matter because the structure of the old ones might have been compromised by too much oil. That might be the cause of the dirt. With good magnets and good condition, Fleischmann locos are a masterclass. As ever; enjoyed your video Anthony; these ideas are NOT meant as criticisms! From me they never are. PT

Some models have 2 screws on each end of the loco ( like mine do ) which hold the Black/yellow Zebra place and the plastic red cover to the loco chassis . Some other models ( probably yours ) don't have screws , but instead they have the typical bumper buffers which are actually screwed on to the chassis and hold the zebra plate and the red shell to the chassis . You just have to twist off the bumper buffer like it is a screw , and it will unscrew and release the zebra plate and the red shell .

@@anthonyshobbycorner This was my problem. I am new to this. Just inherited a train and some track i pretty bad shape. I', going to clean it up but i couldn't figure out how to get the shell off and was afraid to break something so i didn't want to use any force. Now i know what is supposed to come off. Thanks for the video, very helpful.