1. Pull your clutch out fellas and soak your clutch rings in petrol and scratch the shit outta those friction rings with a scribe (don't scratch too deep). 2. Check your clutch springs and replace them with newer or slightly stiffer ones if possible. 3. (This is the most crucial part) Drain your engine oil and flush out your sump with some sort of solvent like parts cleaner or Kerosene and completely drain out the solvent and dry out the sump with an air gun until it's dry. 4. Get a soft brass scrubbing brush and lightly brush all of your clutch plates all over on both sides and then re-wash them in clean petrol and blow them off with an airgun and then hang them out to dry. 5.Once your clutch plates are dry and you have brushed any metal burs from your friction rings after scratching them up then proceed in putting you clutch back together 6. Put your sump cover back on with a fresh gasket. 7. Fill your sump with four stroke motorcycle oil that does not contain any friction modifiers (THIS IS EXTREMELY IMPORTANT OTHERWISE YOU WILL HAVE TO START AGAIN FROM STEP 1!) 8. Start your motor and run it until it is at full operating temp then drain the oil again (I know this step seems crazy but trust me it's important to remove any old oil from the oil galleries in the engine which also lubricates the clutch and gearbox). 9. Re-fill your CB500 four with new 4 Stroke motorcycle oil that does not contain friction modifiers and take it for a test ride and hopefully your slipping clutch problems should be solved :) Usually the reason the slipping clutch problem occurs on CB500 fours is that the person that owned it before you put the wrong sort of oil in the motor and the friction modifiers in the oil have made the clutch pack too slippery so it still slips even after replacing the oil with the proper type as the friction modifier compounds are still stuck on the clutch rings so they need to be scrubbed in a solvent preferably petrol or even carby or brake cleaner should work!

I have several old Honda's, great bikes. The problem I've found with false neutral is just how the bike is ridden. That's if your clutch and tranny are all decent. as far as slipping, try going with stiffer clutch springs and like the other person said acuff up your discs a little , and soak in oil. make sure your clutch is adjusted correct, and has the correct amount of free play

Perhaps you've sorted this out by now, but in case not... The clutch is a bit of a problem child on the 500/4 motors mostly due to lack of consistent user lubrication of the actuation mechanism underneath the left side cover you are removing in this video. The push rod commonly breaks as well, but this is more often related to having a drive chain break and damage the whole mechanism. From what you show, your's looks to be in ok shape, and if you can engage/disengage the clutch smoothly and well enough to drive the bike around, it is more likely that your problem is related to the transmission gears themselves. But not having heard a full description of the issue, it is difficult to say with any certainty. The 500/4 is somewhat notorious (in contrast to the later 550/4 design) for having a clunky gearbox that often experiences premature shifter fork wear when the rider repetitively tries to force gear changes outside of the design envelope. On top of this, the gear engagement dog teeth tend to clash in ways they were not intended to, which causes them to wear at angles that allow them to force the transmission out of gear into another gear or into a false neutral...which further exacerbates improper shifter fork wear. Unfortunately this problem cannot be remedied by any means other than splitting the case and either replacing the transmission components or having the shifter forks hard welded and ground back to spec and the dog teeth re-cut or undercut to promote proper gear mesh. If these problems do exist in your particular engine, it is quite likely that the engine has been otherwise abused and a new primary chain (among other things) would be necessary as well.

Exact place that I started to look. Did not help. I have a 70 cb350 and was told by an old timer to narrow down the issue you can kick start it but not enough to actually start the bike,but to move the lever up and down in a slow motion. while doing that, best to have the bike on the center stand if yours has one. Simultaneously with your other foot shift the bike up and down (all gears/ bike off) if it shifts perfect while doing this, its your clutch (replace). I hope that works, I am just chiming in since I had a similar issue on mine and it was driving me crazy. The part that you show on your vid is called the "actuator" lever and will knock if its not adjusted right, thats all I know about that. In the manual it says it can also be a tab on the weird looking star that moves you from gear to gear, will show wear marks, it is located behind the clutch basket. It can also be the gear shift cam which will show wear in some places.

BRO!!! i have the same problem, i have the same identical bike as yours, were you able to find out why, it slips. My clutch i believe is good, i changed the clutch adjuster because it broke, i put a new rod, a new seal and everything. Im currently thinking that its not my clutch cable or a problem in the left side of the crankcase cover. I think it's my actual clutch that is done or stuck, i haven't checked it yet. When the bike is in neutral i can switch gears without pushing in the clutch handle. So im thinking my plates are slipping or something. Can you please give me any insight as to what it may be, thank you. I do plan on opening the right side of the case and inspect it tonight