1975 Canadian Kenworth lw924 introduction and plans.

  Рет қаралды 5,729

Daniel Homant

Daniel Homant

25 күн бұрын

An introduction to my latest truck.
The lw924 was popular in Canada as a medium duty, off-road hauler and prime mover. It was also not uncommon as an export vehicle for when a standard road truck wasn't enough, such as in New Zealand and Australia.
This truck was well cared for before it was put away and left to rot.
I will be refurbishing it and getting it back on the road to haul again.

Пікірлер: 30
@thewrenchreviews9986
@thewrenchreviews9986 2 күн бұрын
Interesting project to be sure. Love the Kenworths.
@user-ro1ct9cc9p
@user-ro1ct9cc9p 16 күн бұрын
This is a.good truck
@patrickmoran8790
@patrickmoran8790 20 күн бұрын
2:01 quick observations. Hendrickson made hangers unique for IH. The u-bolts over the center of the spring indicate 34000 lb suspension, not normal heavier 38k/40k components. These components would compete with Mack trucks built for hauling milk on their camelback suspension soft ride.
@patrickmoran8790
@patrickmoran8790 20 күн бұрын
2:57 added. Tired Rockwell SLHD or SQHD drive axles. They're good for flatland 350hp, and good for not much else. They were good enough in their day, not today. SLHD was 34k, SQHD was overrated to 38k. There were axle gear and spline size differences from one to the other, but the power divider in the bowl hanging of the front of the front diff were made of the same stuff good enough for 300hp.
@patrickmoran8790
@patrickmoran8790 20 күн бұрын
3:08 steer axle. It has some kind of Rockwell center steer axle. Center steer means that that bottom of the kingpin is over the center of the steer tire tread. That's why the steer oil center caps hang out like an overbite. That experiment wasn't done for many years, and Eaton and Westport didn't try to copy, let alone Ford and GM on their own steer axles.
@danielhomant2832
@danielhomant2832 19 күн бұрын
@@patrickmoran8790 Great stuff and a very helpful starting off point for when I start digging into what is actually on the truck. The original build sheet showed it had SQHD drives originally, but the current ones are DSC 444. I don't remember the original ratio right now, but it was in the 5 something range. So less capacity, but a bit more speed which is desperately needed. I'll most likely be doing regular flatbed work with it, so a more flexible ride will be great, since it is gonna be rough enough as is, heh. I'm familiar with the nature of power on old cars and trucks. My first truck may be a 1990 3406b, but it was only a 330hp spec with NO engine brake, and with the non-convertible 9 sp, RTX 14609b, it was fast on flats but completely gutless, heh. Hills were pretty much always low range up and down. With this KW, between the era, gearing, and engine, I won't be winning any trophies in speed nor power, heh. I will be living at 63 mph, based on gearing and tires. And hills will be slow. I'm ok with that though. The build sheet is all handwritten and is a mediocre copy so it is hard to read a lot of it. I've seen center point steering on other old trucks, though this will be the first one of my own. I wouldn't be surprised if the caps were rigged onto it and aren't right though. Between the stripped out bolts and that they are held on with slathers of silicone, I expect something funky. I am under no allusions that this is gonna be a big, monster pulling truck or that I can do a quick turbo and nozzle swap for 800+HP. Nor do I have any desire to do anything like that to this truck. It will remain intact as an old truck, as is proper. I've even found a set of the original Kelsey-Hayes wheels for it, but those will have to wait for later when I have extra money to start playing. I'm a absolutely about preservation and restoration over chopping and modding.
@returnofthenative
@returnofthenative 22 күн бұрын
A couple of things that you may find useful Daniel. Best & cheapest wat to convert rust to black oxide is vinegar. Not the salad kind @ 6% acidity, the industrial or cleaning kind usually marketed as "double strength" or some such. Get it at the supermarket. Get creative when applying it if you cannot immerse the part, soak pads & tape on. Trick is to prevent it drying whilst its doing its magic, must be grease free surface. 30 minutes on light flash rust, eg after sandblasting prior to paint, up to 24 hrs on heavy scale rust. Paint, do it once & do it right. Don't use automotive paint, its way too soft. Use two part epoxy paint, the kind used on ships & fishing trawlers etc. Get it in 20 litre drums, from a supplier to that trade, its hard as, & cannot be cut back after 24 hours curing. Make sure you get it specific to the ambient temp you will be spraying in. Its seasonal. BTW you will use 20 litres on the bare chassis alone. So, sandblast, treat any flash rust as described, apply a very thin etch primer, apply a very thick top coat. When repairing fibreglass, on panels, cut out all rotten bits & then fibreglass & epoxy fill these areas. Do not use car filler. Over fill & grind back to level, work rough & clean for best adhesion & strength, big grit score marks are best, only use the car filler as a thin surface convenience. Rotten edges, eg those headlight cutouts are easy. Just cut out the rotten bits & clamp a bit of wood or whatever is handy behind the area to be built up. Cover your bit of wood etc in that cheap brown tape that is used on packages, nothing sticks to it so you can lay your fibreglass on it freely. Over build the area & cut it back to perfect size after it has cured. The packaging tape is the secret trick, & it works a treat. Don't forget to resin seal you cut edges or you will get osmosis, (moisture wicking up the glass fibres that will puff it up later on). I'll sub to your channel & if I see you are going to do something, I may chip in to help. Eg, if I see you want to lay flooring, or cut interior panels etc, I'll tell you how to get a perfect fit easy, even on the most complex shapes & spaces. BTW, that steering wheel is easily restorable. I'm retired now, but I was a lifelong desert truckie out from Perth Western Australia to our remote mines. My last was the mighty KW T904 with Cat C16, 22 series Roadranger, steel on spiders, on 6 rod, 170 ton rated pulling triple flat tops. Best truck I ever had, I did over 5 million with it & it still wasn't burning oil between changes. Mind you I did things to it to make that happen. I miss those days sorely.
@danielhomant2832
@danielhomant2832 22 күн бұрын
@@returnofthenative Excellent info here. Thankfully, the truck is very solid and so far doesn't need any major work beyond the frame. The split at the rear of the frame was caused by rust jacking from the insert back there. Once I pull it out, I'll be getting it welded back and putting in a new insert with fresh metal. I am planning on using Por-15 for any residual rust and defense against it in the future. Paint, I've used a modern DuPont version of Imron on my first truck. Single stage with appropriate primer and prep with a similar mixed composition of steel, aluminum, fiberglass, and some plastic. The fiberglass is great, not fraying or coming apart. The headlight area just has a lot of residual sealant around it is all, I haven't scrubbed it clean yet since I'm not at that stage and don't want to open up potential issues until I'm ready to do so. From what I've seen, the fiberglass is solid and will just need a fresh gel coat after sanding and prepping it of course. I can walk on the fenders with my toolbox and they don't make any noise. The cab interior is great. The door cards aren't rotted or anything and the only real issue are the floors. Those are just a wood panel so that will be easily replaced and I'm sticking with rubber mat flooring since I'm building a truck to work, not be a show pony, heh. The sleeper, I haven't dug into its interior since it is just plain nasty back there and I need to get it functional first before worrying about cosmetics. Definitely stick around though, from what you ran, you've probably seen these trucks back in their prime. I'm gonna bring it back period correct, even found a set of the original Kelsey-Hayes spoked wheels for it. It needs everything done just about, but thankfully none of it is major.
@returnofthenative
@returnofthenative 21 күн бұрын
@@danielhomant2832 Cool Daniel, Just one important tip with regard to quick easy, perfect flooring or other pattern making. I see people struggle all day with this, & end up junk. No matter how simple or complex, angles/protrusions to consider. Always work from a determined center line. Centre need not be actual center, it can be anywhere, ie at a place where something comes through the floor at a certain point, & center can be horizontal or vertical, or both. It is the very basis of your pattern calculation, & work out from that. Centre can be 6 inches on one side, & 2 ft on the other. From that point cut rough undersized pattern blanks that easily fit into the spaces. then use a small block, coin, anything & run it against the outside edge of the area you want to accurately replicate, using the other side & a pencil to transfer your mark (minus the width of your block to the undersized rough blank. When you have these marks, remove the roughs, lay them on your new flooring sheet material & use the same block in reverse, (now your original mark plus the width of the block) to give you the accurate outside edge markings from the roughs to your new material. Hey presto, perfect fit, quick & easy. Still miss my truck.
@alexanderelrod8932
@alexanderelrod8932 23 күн бұрын
That is one very unique powersteering system.. Very interesting, definitely need to see this truck come together.
@danielhomant2832
@danielhomant2832 23 күн бұрын
@@alexanderelrod8932 Quite so. I have seen similar before on heavy steer trucks, but not this particular setup. They use a conventional power steering and add a hydraulic cylinder to the passenger side so both wheels get steering force, but I've never seen a cylinder behind a manual box. It isn't my oldest vehicle, but it is my oldest truck, so gonna be a lot of new things to learn. Stick around, I'm just getting started on it but will get it hauling again. I still drive for a living and only home every other weekend, so progress won't be fast, but it will get done.
@danielflinn3571
@danielflinn3571 14 күн бұрын
Thanks for sharing from Australia
@danielhomant2832
@danielhomant2832 14 күн бұрын
@@danielflinn3571 Glad to do so.
@michaelsummer4101
@michaelsummer4101 19 күн бұрын
Bring her back to old glory
@danielhomant2832
@danielhomant2832 19 күн бұрын
@@michaelsummer4101 That I will. No drop visor, color changing LED, lowered suspension or any of that silliness for this truck.
@martinhowe3679
@martinhowe3679 18 күн бұрын
@@danielhomant2832 good 😃
@UgurMuhtar
@UgurMuhtar 21 күн бұрын
Great content. Would be great for future videos if you use a tripod and a wireless mic.
@danielhomant2832
@danielhomant2832 21 күн бұрын
@@UgurMuhtar That it would, and I would like to get one, especially once I get into the cab work more. But for now I just have to remember to slow down, not everyone looks as fast as I do, heh.
@beaverdam3252
@beaverdam3252 18 күн бұрын
I have a 1974 Lw Kenworth just like yours small cam 350 Cummins rto9513 transmission mine has the same power steering system glad i found your videos where did you get the build sheet on your truck i would love to know more about my truck
@danielhomant2832
@danielhomant2832 18 күн бұрын
@@beaverdam3252 I called a nearby Canadian dealership and told them the situation. Their system, like the US side, only showed the modern truck that used the recycled VIN, so they had to have someone manually search the physical records until they found it. They were looking and enough to scan and email it to me of their own accord. Since these trucks were not just made in Canada, but the entire model line not available in the US, combined with the vintage, most stateside places won't even touch it due to potentially impossible to track down parts. I think I called Kenworth of Toronto, London, Ontario. You could try contacting them and see if they could do the same. I believe I talked to Alex Tadema in parts. If you remind him that he found my sheet, it may help him to find yours faster. No guarantees, heh, it is just what worked for me. Good to know the steering is most likely factory though, heh. It works great.
@beaverdam3252
@beaverdam3252 18 күн бұрын
@@danielhomant2832 thank you for the information I'm in north Carolina I'm gonna try an contact them about my truck and see if they will help me I have to take the steering box off mine an have it rebuilt I'm glad too see some videos of another truck like mine
@danielhomant2832
@danielhomant2832 18 күн бұрын
@@beaverdam3252 Heh, well I guess they are technically still the closest Canadian dealer to ya. Things like this are exactly why I finally started the channel. As time goes on, knowledge disappears. This is a way to preserve and share it for the future. Feel free to reach out with any questions, I just started this truck so I'm learning about them myself, but I'll help if I can. Good luck with your endeavors, let me know how it goes. Always good to hear of another fellow bringing something back.
@danielhomant2832
@danielhomant2832 8 күн бұрын
​@@beaverdam3252 Minor update about the steering. It is a Garrison setup. Garrison power steering was commonly used in off-road and heavy applications, and is still in use today. The company still exists and still supplies power steering to various off-road equipment. I don't think they provided the gearbox, but if you need any other parts for your steering, might be worth getting in touch with them.
@mtvjackass74
@mtvjackass74 18 күн бұрын
Quick question, I noticed the front hubs "stick out" like big nipples, I was told by a trucker is because it doesn't have power steering, but this truck does, can anyone explain? thanks!!!
@danielhomant2832
@danielhomant2832 18 күн бұрын
@@mtvjackass74 You were told correct. Before the era of power steering, center point style hubs were used to held make steering easier. The hub pivots directly in the center of the tire, making it easier to turn since the tire only needs to twist. On modern trucks, the tires actually have to be forced to move forward and back when turning. This truck has Garrison style power steering. It was basically a factory installed aftermarket part. Except this model, the lw924, came with it standard. The l in lw stands for logging, and if you can imagine the kind of harsh conditions a Canadian logging truck would face in the 70's, it becomes clear why the drivers would want every advantage they could get, heh. The Garrison system doesn't change the manual steering, it is basically a bolt on addition. Also, it makes it safer to drive in harsh conditions because hydraulic cylinders are typically highly resistant to forced motion, depending on the setup. This makes it far less likely to have the tire hit something and be suddenly twisted sideways and easier for a driver to hold. The downside is that hubcaps are vulnerable to damage, and the brakes are about 1/2 the size. But, most trucks didn't even have front brakes yet, heh. Hope this clears things up. I'll add doing a video about the steering to the list of topics to cover, heh.
@Jdigger4130
@Jdigger4130 17 күн бұрын
its known as center point steering
@raginroadrunner
@raginroadrunner 21 күн бұрын
It came with cheap hockey sticks..
@danielhomant2832
@danielhomant2832 21 күн бұрын
@@raginroadrunner And a jar of maple syrup, eh?
@raginroadrunner
@raginroadrunner 21 күн бұрын
Those are not 44000 rears.
@danielhomant2832
@danielhomant2832 21 күн бұрын
@@raginroadrunner I haven't identified them yet, so I don't know the capacity on any of it. The build sheet shows me how it was originally, but a lot can change in 50 years, heh. If you know what they are and can point me to how to identify them beyond International Harvester, I would appreciate it.
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