Thank you SuperNova. :-)

Hi Nils, thank you for you kind words. I'm pleased this video is helpful to you. Don't forget to click the link in the video summary under the video pane to the detailed description of how I did this work. There is more important material there than I can fit in a video.

You're very kind Malcolm. I did consider these as "entertainment", but each to his own :-)

Hi Frank, Indeed, sometimes it is the simple or easy stuff that's at fault. Glad you successfully completed your transmission project. Stay well.

Beautiful machine thanks for sharing. I have a 1988rt I plan on working on

Thank you Mike. Best of success on this project.

@Devin Cedric Instablaster :)

@Roger Shepherd i really appreciate your reply. I found the site through google and I'm trying it out now. Takes a while so I will reply here later when my account password hopefully is recovered.

@Roger Shepherd it worked and I finally got access to my account again. I'm so happy! Thanks so much you really help me out :D

@Devin Cedric you are welcome xD

You're welcome Mark. Don't forget to click the links in the video summary. They take you to my web site and complete documentation of how I do the work including part numbers and special tools.

Carl, thank you for sharing this tip. I always learn new techniques on every project.

Best of success Albert.

Hi Albert, You can replace the rubber boot between the swing arm and the transmission with the transmission in place. You will need to remove the four drive shaft bolts to get the boot installed and then install the bolts as shown in this video.

Hi Matthias, Thank you for the kind words and coming by to see this video. I explain in the video, (about 1 min in) and in the detailed procedure I wrote that's posted at the link in the video summary, that I install the push rod into the input shaft before mounting the transmission. You are correct about not being able to install it with the transmission in the frame.

Hi Peter, It's very easy to turn the transmission input shaft just a small amount to align with the clutch. My fingers are long enough to reach the input shaft to make the adjustment. And, I can look at the clutch and input shaft from the front of the transmission while I balance it. That would not be as easy reaching around to turn the output shaft. And it would be much harder to turn since I would be spinning all three shafts in the transmission.

Rahul, Thank you for your kind words. I painted the valve covers using brake caliper paint. After 24 hours drying, I baked them in the oven at 200 F for 30 minutes to harden the paint.

Hi Ish, I don't bead blast the engine block. I did bead blast the transmission case and then cleaned it three times with hot soapy water and a final hot water rinse. Then I used a white napkin and cleaned the inside surfaces to ensure there was no grit from the glass beads. For engine blocks, I use degreaser, aluminum cleaner, abrasive pads and aluminum polish. I published the techniques I use for refinishing parts in this document posted on my web site: --> brook.reams.me/bmw-motorcycle-rebuilds/1973-bmw-r755-rebuild-project/51-bmw-r755-refinishing-techniques/ If you bead blast the engine block, you haver to completely strip everything from it. Then you have to clean out all the oil galleys and passages. Folks have used gun cleaning rods for that work, but it takes a long time. There are lots of nooks and crannies inside the engine block and that makes it very difficult to be absolutely sure there are no bits of glass bead left inside the block. That's why I never bead blast an engine block.

Jim, It can be hard to shift if don't pull in the clutch..

Hi Alan, I have no idea as I don't know if the needle bearing is larger or smaller than the hole for the bushing. I did the beer can fix on my '77 RS build back in 2016-17 and with just about 10,000 miles on it, the foot shift lever is still solid.

The felt was replaced with a seal starting in the 1981 model year

Peter, you can replace the foot shift lever seal by removing the shift lever and pulling out the seal.

@@BrooksAirheadGarage I was nervous but feel better now!😊 Thank you, Petr

Ken, the /6 5-speedwill bolt on to the /5 engine block.

I installed a 76 5 speed on my 71 R75/5, amazingly it fits fine, clutch throw out bearing assy different though

Jim, it will most likely leak since the swing arm tube is rectangular and the transmission output shaft sleeve is circular.

Brook - update - pulled the trans and motor still won't turn.

Brook - update 2 - removed the clutch assembly and engine rotates. Not sure why the clutch prevents rotation. Any suggetions?

@@jimhovland7672 Hmm ... I've not run into this problem before. I guess I would install the clutch again with the bolts finger tight. Then rotate the engine and try to see what is obstructing the rotation.

Final update - resolved. The issue was clutch alignment.

@@jimhovland7672 As I like to say, Endeavour to Persevere 🙂

Brandon, I’d lube the splines and see if that makes shifting smoother

Lubed the trans input shaft and didn't make a difference. Suggestions?

@@brandonlutz338 Well, it's time to open the transmission and look at all the parts for wear or other issues.

no shifting issues now. I took the transmission into a BMW dealer and they said the shifting paw inside was assembled backwards. Odd that it worked so well for so long but whatever, works good now

Wayartio, they are not painted. The transmission and engine case were cleaned by hand.

It’s a reminder there is no oil in the engine. I put red tape where there is work I need to complete ad a reminder.

Great idea, thanks.

Hi jbhallowell, guilty as charged :-) But, I also ended up in sales, marketing, finance, mergers & acquisitions and ran my own small company for a couple years. In short, I'm not sure what I want to be when I grow up. :-)

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