Thank you for clarifying. I'm doing a full suspension rebuild along with brakes and new trailing arms front and rear on my 560 sel. My front caliper on the passenger side is leaking badly so rebuilding a set to install. I'm also upgrading to performance brakes as the 560 has a new engine with upgrades and is quite fast now! The rear trailing arms can be upgraded on these cars as well. There is the normal ones with the plastic swaybar endlinks. Then there is the torque compensation rear end on the euro v8 models and on usa 86 and 87 560 models. It prevents squat when accelerating and prevents front nose dive under hard braking and utilizes more of the rear braking force. These aluminum rear trailing arms have the torque damping built in and are a direct bolt in swap for all v8 models. Diesel I'm not sure if the subframe is different like the 6 cylinder gas models

@@12pagani Well there is no need to worry about rear end squat during acceleration for this car! LOL... 120 hp baby !

where you located?

LMAO..... parts gotta ship first!

I had the shocks on hand and replaced them today. Will be part of the next video. Wow. Much easier than the front shocks.

@@ImpalamansGarage some cars I've had to take the back seat out but that's not to bad. See you in the next video. Happy New Year! It's midnight here in Vegas.

@@wernerdanler2742 Happy New Year !

I'm making an assumption that you are referring to the bolts that connect the subframe to the body of the vehicle. If the subframe is bolted to the differential, it (the differential) has most likely sagged downward and rotated slightly toward the front of the car. This would cause a misalignment. Any time you disconnect the rear differential/axle supports you allow the whole rear axle assembly to move around. This is true regarding rear suspension maintenance on any car. This actually happened on my old Cadillac when I was replacing the rear trailing arm bushings. I had to use a transmission jack, crow bars and the muscle from a helper to get it back into alignment so we could bolt everything back together. If the car were on a lift you could use straps and a come-along to pull the rear axle slightly rearward to achieve the alignment. Or maybe there are other suspension components you could loosen first to achieve the alignment. These are just ideas off the top of my head since I am not sure what your situation is.

@@ImpalamansGarage Yes. I was talking about the subframe big bolts. The problem is that the car is on the ground - standing on the jack´s on each corner. Although I loosened the differential bolts, the subframe is not moving enough. So far I´ve used just muscle and crowbar wihout any luck. Should I leave the differential bolts loose and then use some kind of bigger force on the subframe? Like a winch?

@@ejtomero7720 Try placing a floor jack under the differential and lifting up on it slightly. This may pull the subframe slightly rearward. Please be careful and place plenty of blocks and jack stands under the car. Excerpting forces on the car while it's on the jack stands will have a tendency to tip the car over. Of course there is always the "shade tree method". This next statement comes from my southern up-bringing - Chain the front of car to another vehicle. Wrap a chain around the rear differential and then connect to another vehicle to the rear. I think you know what comes next. LMAO..... Again. Be careful !