Nicely done. These TBI 350s still deserve to be fixed and stay on the road. When the small things that do go wrong with these are addressed, they run amazing.

Thank you so much for your video, I had damn near the same problem with my '90 k1500 325,000 that my dad bought new. Your vid is the most accurate, right, correct diagnostic out there. I finally broke down & bought a new fuel pump. When removing the old I found a 3/8x1/2 or so piece of plastic grocery bag that somehow got around the sock & was hung up in the pump and cause intermittent fuel pressure problems. You sir have a new subscriber.

Excellent video, very thorough. I have the same year, make and model truck with the same exact symptoms. I have been scratching my head on this one but now have something to go on. Thanks!

Steve, I am so glad that I came across this video! As I explained in a previous post, I have the same year, make and model of this truck with the exact symptoms. In completing the fuel pressure test, that I was reading 9-9.5 PSI. I then completed the dead head pressure test and it only measured at 12-12.5 PSI. I replaced the fuel pump about 3 weeks ago using the tilt bed method and I am very happy to report that I've not had a problem since! Thanks!

Came in here to say that your video helped me finally solve my issue. I am in the middle of a long road trip, and my truck began to act up. Acted like a vacuum leak, but not entirely. Rough, surging idle when cold, high idle when warm, stumbling and hesitation under load, etc. I decided to cut an access hole in the bed, and swap the pump. Bingo! That 3" section of fuel line between the pump and the metal riser pipe had a split in it, effectively acting as a pressure relief. Enough pressure to run, but just barely. If it weren't for this video, I likely would not have figured it out. Thank you very much for this posted video. So, after doing a ton of research, I also want to share my EXACT specs for cutting the access hole. 1991 Chevy Scottsdale, K1500, standard cab, 8' bed, 35 gallon fuel tank. Measure 10" and 27" from the left side of the bed, and 4" and 19.5" from the front of the bed. The hole will be the perfect size, and the fore and aft cuts will land on the frame rails underneath for support, and they should also cut through the few spotwelds that need to be cut to peel that panel out of the way. I just used self tapper screws to reinstall, and some metal duct tape to seal it off. The truck has never run better. By the way, this truck has only 65K on it. It spent some time sitting in a barn, which may have hastened the split in the fuel line. Thanks again for the video and info. Hope my post can help another someday.

Today took out the sender and fuel pump and sure enough...had a small crack starting on the rubber hose between the sender and the fuel pump although it may or may not been all the way through. The fuel strainer was getting very discolored and the fuel pump itself was harder to spin, not spinning freely like it should. Glad I found this video as I ended up replacing the fuel pump and strainer. It took care of my problem and even runs better!

I love my TBI trucks. Ive had hot start issues but it was too much fuel from a bad pressure regulator. also happened on my vortec with the spider injector assembly leaking fuel

also seen ignition module causing problem. those modules can be tested at some auto parts stores free

I had 1989 Chevy Impala Wagon with V8 and was experiencing intermittent ignition dropout. Replacing reluctor coil in distributor did not improve things. Replaced HEI coil and went thru several "thick film" modules in distributor. No improvement. Turns out, fan clutch was weak and underhood temps were high. New radiator fan clutch solved the problem.

I’ve got a customers 1990 Chevy pickup with the exact same problem with the addition of stalling while driving and not restarting. He had the fuel pump replaced but I’m suspect of the replacement. I’m going to try and dead head the pump and see what pressure I get. Been dealing with this issue for a year. Didn’t suspect the pump because the customer said he had it replaced at another shop.

My tbi surge put good I put a new Fuel regulator / filter cap / rotor/plugs/idle air control. It kinda went away but still does it a lil bit. But never thought to check the sensor under the cap

Excellent Job Amigo !! Congratulations !!

I had that pin hole leak on the 4.3 engines. Great when they tank was full but rough when 1/2 full

Excellent video very thorough thank you

my 1990 would sit idling surge and die.changed the module now it doesnt die but the surge is still there

Thanks a Lot For Sharing ...

Awesome job

If you could describe where and how to pinch the return line on these trucks to do a deadhead fuel pressure test it would be appreciated. I’ve been living with this problem about 3 years now. I do have a snap on data box and a fuel pressure gauge kit for inline pressure.

Could we just take the line off the TBI input and dead head it there right away, first thing? I put on a new filter already.

You dondt use dielectric grease under that ignition module computer boy.. you use heat dissipating gel, that get likes 200 degrees in that location..

I have just started to deal with this same issue. Is it possible the fuel filter could be starting to get a restriction causing the fuel pressure to not increase by double as you stated? I replaced my fuel pump with a GM pump about 100,000 miles ago along with the fuel sender.

What scan tool did you use to watch data ?

I have a 1993 silverado 5.0 runs good then decides it wants to stall , you can drive it 15 miles or more or for days then it just shuts off while driving .I have been to three shops nobody can fix it correctly .

Have a 94 gmc Sierra dies after runs for about 10 min real good then dies after trying to accelerate what’s do you think it is

I have a 94 with s 454 after running for 10 minutes I gets s sudden pike in idle up to 1100 rpm what could that be

What is dead head pressure?

Ever watch scannerdanner?

Curious, did this symptom throw a code 32... egr

1988 Chevy Silverado has hesitation also stalled now won't start back up

what would cause an 89 k1500 to surge on start up at idle. its very constant and replicated., like the com puter is doing it,? it also has to crank over for abt 5 to 7 seconds when first starting after sitting overnight. u have me thinking maybe the pressure is bleeding away due to a pinhole in the fuel line on the pump assembly. also how did u get to the pump, drop the tank or remove the bed. thanks

So i have a 1990 c1500 with 5.7 tbi i cant figure out here is a list of what we replaced, distributor, cap, rotor, spark plugs, wires, coil, temp sensor, map sensor, ecm, checked all wires, rebuilt throttle body, new injectors, new fuel filter new fuel pump screen and connecting hose, o2 sensor, catalytic coverter, thermostat, water pump, and belt. A lot of parts each one put on one at time and each time runs better it'll sit and idle then just die cant put it in gear without it dying, once driving it shutters. At idle engine shakes please help me figure this out got a LOT of money in this just want to drive it

I have almost the exact same problem and I have checked my fuel pressure and it is also good but I have not checked a dead head pressure like you did. I have a 1995 K1500 Chevrolet Truck. I assume you pinched or plugged a line somehow to block it and read the pressure in that condition. Would you mind telling me how you did that so I can do the same? Great Video and almost exactly my really odd problem. I don't want to change the pump if not proven needed as it's tough to do I hear (remove bed) or do a lot of contortions to drop the tank?

Did you charge him for a fuel pump when u said his was ok. And you just fixed the pin whole in the line

GOOD SPEAKER, BAD TEACHER ;SOORRY ,BUT THE PURPOSE OF KZfaq IS TO SHOW PEOPLE TO DO THINGS?.......GOOD FILM CLEAR !.....GOD BLESS YOU.!!

Waste of time

Too much bla bla blaaaaa 🐏 . sorry but bla don't solve problems .