+edgar bowen You're welcome Edgar! It's great to hear the video helped you out!

+D Mill Hello, From the sounds of it the spindle might need to be replaced, but as you know you still need to remove the hub so you can remove the spindle. Just to double check: A common step that is missed is taking off the axle shaft c-clip, splined washer, and axle spacing washers from the tip of the axle shaft. Once those are removed the outer bearing can be removed by gently wiggling the hub up and down. Then the hub and inner bearing usually slide off as one piece because the hub seal holds the inner bearing in the hub. The other thing that might have happened: There might be some burrs on the spindles key way (the groove that is cut down the middle of the spindle). Sometimes the locking ring (located between the two hub nuts) chews up the metal on the keyway and leaves high spots that the wheel bearing cannot slid over. Can you move the outer wheel bearing race in and out even a little? If not then the bearing race might be seized onto the spindle. This happens from a lot of heat and the bearing race slipping on the spindle. You might be able to use a brass punch and hammer to hit the bearing race all around evenly to try and loosen the bond between it and the spindle. I would just keep using more force and maybe some heat on the bearing race until it finally comes off. If it takes a lot of force and heat to remove the bearing I would definitely replace the spindle along with both wheel bearings and the hub seal.

I believe it should be 15mm, but if the bolt head is badly rounded/rusted you might need to use a file to flatten fix the bolt head and use a 9/16 socket instead.

I know that it takes a 2-3/16" 4 prong lock nut tool, but I don't know what size the threads are. Sorry about that.

+D Mill You're welcome and good luck with the removal!

Some people do. Just remember there's a chance that you can damage the spindle threads or spindle locknut or your outer wheel bearing. Also, when re-installing the outer locknut it'll be almost impossible to properly torque it to (150 ft/Lbs) without the lock nut socket, so it might be an idea to get one at the start if you can.

+monkeymanrenzo Wow, I was late on responding to this comment, sorry about that, youtube didn't notify me about your comment. I just stumbled across it. I'm guessing you don't need this info now but I'll post it anyway. The main tools I needed were common hand tools (pliers, flat blade screwdrivers), a good 3/8 and 1/2 rachet set, a 1/2" 2 foot breaker bar, and most importantly the 4 prong hub lock nut tool (prime choice 27250).

The steps should be pretty close to the same. The hub nut tool will work as long as the truck has manual locking hubs. If the truck has automatic locking hubs you can read this: www.therangerstation.com/tech_library/howto_hubswap.shtml I think many of the parts will be different for a 89 4x4. I might be wrong, but I believe they have Dana 28 front axle (my truck has a Dana 35). If it is a Dana 28 then it would take Set 35 Timken wheel bearings (you need to buy 2 for each side). If you need to change the spindle bearing it will probably be different too (Dana 35 = Timken kit SBK4) (Dana 28 = Timken kit SBK2), you need to buy one kit for each side. The brakes will probably be different too, I think they can be different depending on the model you have. Sorry can't help you on the brakes. Make sure you double check all of my info before you buy parts, I could have made a mistake! Hope this helps a little!

It has 2 wheel ABS (RABS - Rear Anti-lock Braking System)

buffalo suldier Hello, I have never needed to buy these parts, but I found some info that might help you. This info is from this page: www.explorerforum.com/forums/showthread.php?t=236841 ...The C clip is = P/N 42570 (aka by Ford-"snap ring") ...The splined washer is a "variable part" but can be found in this kit at the Ford Dealer - P/N F57Z-3B458-A is the part number, it's 3 washers. Plain steel, plastic, and the splined steel washer ... ...Be sure to verify these as Ford made different variables... ....The Ford Guy may have meant that you need the B.O.M. ...It is a sticker on your front axle which is a "Bill Of Material" sticker noting the build date and axle info... ...Spdrcer34 did give the proper names as per Dana-Spicer, " Ford calls your "splined washer" an 'Axle Shaft Spacer'. And your "C-clip" is called a 'Snap Ring' " This page also mentions some other places where the parts might be found. You'll want to double check that these are the right parts before buying. I hope this helped.

Hi Hollywood307, Yup, all of the front wheel bearing and race sets are the same - Timken Set37. The inner and outer wheel bearing and race are the exact same. You might also want to replace the hub/wheel seal at the same time as doing the bearings. You only need one Timken 4250 seal for each side of the truck.

Hi Robert, Your 94 Mazda 4x4 should use the same parts as the 1993-1997 ford ranger 4x4 that is in the video so hopefully this set of videos (Pt1 and Pt2) will help you. 1994-1997 Mazda B series 4x4 trucks and 1993-1997 Ford Ranger 4x4 use almost all of the same parts, so that part is true. But, I wouldn't say that ALL small trucks are the same though, because parts vary widely depending on the make, model, and year of each truck. For example: 1994 Dodge Dakota 4x4 trucks use a one piece wheel bearing/hub assembly instead of separate bearings and races like my truck and your truck. Hope this helps

BMPWR Please forgive me ,I was trolling but was not trying to get you! Your videos are great and I know these trucks are the same...I was trying to get someone to call me stupid or something, now I feel bad that you took your time to answer me...UNLESS you knew it was fake and were trying to make me feel bad Then that would be AWESOME! LOL Again sorry and very helpful info.

Robert Chandler Ha! Nice! Yah... I totally knew you were trolling....alright...maybe I didn't. ;-) No Problem! And thanks for the complement!

Yup it would have been easier but I live in an apartment without outside plugs, oh well.