You can't reach them all from the inside. A couple of them yes, but not the bolts that go to the cab. I'm currently doing mine and I can't get at them from the inside.

my 1990 xlt has the same issue. I have to lift up on the door to shut it.

@@danielmartin9851 I did this and it worked pretty well. Do it in conjunction with adjusting your door striker. Obviously, it doesn't beat installing new hinge bushings but it helps a lot.

Interesting, any more specific information or Part Number ?

@@kaufmankdk DORMAN bushings and pins from auto zone or O'Reilly or Amazon, change it when you first notice a problem before the pin wears threw to the metal hinge and causes more damage to the hinge , very cheap fix but if ignored too long it will cause body damage to door , fender and even door latch and striker plate , and the door latch parts are available too , every wear part is available , keep it alive 👍

Sorry for the late reply. Part of my comeback here on KZfaq is making time to correspond to everyone here. Since I designated Wednesdays and Saturdays as new video day, Mondays and Thursdays are going to be correspondence days. Anyway, thanks for the compliment. I was afraid of making an adjustment to the doors because it was such a long wheelbase but it came out okay after all.

Hey I’m trying to get my door realigned after replacing the hinge pins and I’m having the problem you mentioned. Front door gap is messed up and fender is interfering with the opening and closing. 85 long before, 4x4. Any advise on how best to fix the problem? Take off the fender? Door alignment too?

@@davidblas9280 What are the gaps at your door right now? I adjust mine to between 3/16" and 1/8" at the REAR, where there is little risk of interference. I keep the gaps on the front at least 1/4". I also like to flare the fenders out slightly to give even more clearance for the door to sneak in behind as it opens. I've put my truck (1986 extended cab F250) on quite a twist and checked to make sure there is still clearance. Removing the fender makes the door adjustment easier, but for the amount of trouble in getting the fenders off and back on again, I hesitate to recommend this. Unless you're already going to take them off for some reason. But as shown in Ferdinand's video, you will need a U-joint 13mm or 1/2" socket to properly access the hing brackets with the fenders in place. I have a 3/8" drive socket that has a built in U-joint and works well. Anything bigger won't fit, and anything smaller may not be strong enough. You'll also need box end 12-point wrench to access the third bolt on each hinge (U-joint to access the front two bolts, box-end to access the rear bolt...same drill for top and bottom brackets.). Then if you find the door sits too low at the front, you can still slide it up using the brackets that attach to the door itself. Those are easy to access. Just be mindful that you can also shift the door too far in or out from the frame. Always put some pencil or tape marks before you start moving anything.

Thanks! I just recently learned he's going to scrap it. He's bought another one and and going to transfer some stuff over.

FerdinandMagellan08 can he courier the passenger door , grille and mirrors to me lol . Cheers

Sir, Please elaborate on this. sounds better than this circus going on. also this other guy talking about the hinge pin bushings are the first to go , change those first before ever disturbing the alignment

@@kaufmankdk There are two bolts on the driver's side door when you open the door on the left side holding the door to the hinge. if you are able to loosen them up you can move the door just a little bit easier if you have two people one can hold the door while the other loosens the bolts. pull the door to the proper angle tighten the bolts do an alignment check and square off as needed. you may have to repeat loosening the two bolts on the door side a couple of times. do not undo the bolts all the way just loosen them. I believe that is how most alignment shops do this. they aren't going to remove the whole thing to make one thing work like this guy was doing no offense to this guy. it's the reverse on the passenger side. two bolts top and two bolts bottom. I would just walk the door a little whichever way. tighten and check alignment.

Those two bolts adjust the door in and out at the top and bottom. The bolts that go from the hinge to the cab need to be loosened to adjust your gap and to line up the indent by the handle. I've done quite a few over the years.

Jose Montoya that was my thought too, I need to adjust the passenger side as the wind took it and ever so slightly , now it rubs every now and then .

Adjust your door striker

Got it, had no one else to help me so I used a ratchet which was connected securely to my door and deck post to hold it open. Was able to get to the third bolt. Front and back of door lines up perfect. Thanks for the vid

Don’t know if you ever will see this but you’ve help me out brother appreciate you.

How hard its to remove the fender? I been try to do with out taking the fender off with no luck so far

@@edwinmorales8871 not too hard but it isn’t easy there is a whole bunch of stucc connected to the fender

second guy to suggest this method. any shims or replacement parts or just adjustment ?