Agreed, I bought the socket and tool for 20 bucks.

I bought the Dorman which is not the OEM tool as suggested in the comment below and I contacted Dorman first and they said it was the tool. It's now stuck. Socket won't come out and tool won't come out. Doesnt even make sense to me. Unless the tool bent in there? Aluminum not steel like the OEM. Plan B.

@@sweetiepienumber1 the same thing is currently happening to me. Stuck inside

same here...replacing it in a 2002 astro van after yearsd of waiting for a mechanic friend to do it for me. getting impatient so i'll now do it myself - it seems simple enough...thanks for this video!

It comes with the socket when you buy it at autozone, but I don’t know how they make it look so easy, I bent mine.

I imagine this could only happen due to either corrosion, or a defective design aftermarket part encountering some physical obstruction with the OEM socket. Either way, you'll have to apply _sufficient force_ to undo this bond in order to get the tool in that's required to remove the socket. Care is needed to avoid cracking or otherwise damaging the dash when doing so. For corrosion some penetrating fluid can be helpful (put down plastic to avoid staining the carpet below). And you definitely want to *pull the appropriate fuse to remove power* when going this route.

If I'm following you, this is a situation where you forced the installation of a outlet from a different model vehicle into this current vehicle. As a result, the fitment is wrong so now it's wedged into the dash. Well in this sort of situation I'd be concerned with damage to the plastic dash face/bezel, so what I would suggest is removing that from the vehicle and work on extracting the incorrect sized socket from behind.

Have you removed it yet ?

No special tool for the models with a bezel. But there will be tabs on the bezel, both that secure it to the dash panel, and to the socket. Either you haven't got those aligned, or they may have broken off due to age requiring replacement of the plastic bezel.

Thanks!!!@@DrShock

If the socket on that model and year has the two opposing square cutouts for the tool, then you should be able to remove the tool by moving one peg of the tool all the way out of one square cutout on the socket by rocking it at an angle. If it went in, it can come out. ;-) Some models may have a snap on retaining bezel going into the dash trim that you may have to remove first, before the socket can be extracted. The service manual for the model and year is going to be necessary to determine if that's the case with your vehicle.

Thank you the retaining ring might be the issue. I have the tool in right I watched your video and others, etc. I pulled so hard I injured my intercostal muscles pulling on that tool. I lubed the sides with silicone to no avail as well. So. I'll try the tabs on the sides of the black plastic ring with hinged cover. I appreciate you getting back to me so quickly. When I get this out I'll have to buy a DrShock t-shirt.@@DrShock

It will vary by model year and model, GM uses the same part across many models for this but they do change over the years to match the interior design changes. Your local GM dealer should be able to hook you up with just the VIN.

Thanks, the fuse is going out from a short circuit most likely. That could be in the socket (the part this video covers), or the wiring harness connecting to the socket in the back of the dash. The easiest way to tell is a visual inspection after removing the socket from the vehicle. Check for some debris inside first, sometimes that's all it is. Sockets that are obviously rusted/corroded, appear burnt, or otherwise damaged at that center terminal at the very bottom of the socket are likely shot (what blows the fuse is _direct_ electrical contact being made from that center terminal with the sides of the socket instead of a lighter element or phone charging plug). The best way is to test the socket with a voltmeter, which a local auto parts store should be able to do if you do not own that kind of tool.

There's a reason GM designs special tools to service these parts. You don't have to use the genuine GM one, there's plenty of knock-offs of this tool available in your corner parts store for less (links in the description). Personally I could never damage someone else's vehicle/part by bending it like that. This particular video is about a power outlet part that only services back to the 1996 model year. I don't know if this specific tool supports older model years than that, there have been several different GM designs over the years.

@@DrShock got it. thanks!

You won't be able to disconnect the wiring harness until you get the socket removed as the connection is in the back as shown. But if you feel you might let the tool slip and make contact with the bottom of the outlet, definitely pull the fuse for the accessory power. If you accidentally touch something metallic between the shell of the outlet, and the connector and the very bottom then that will cause a short circuit.

The coin would have created a short circuit, which would then blow the fuse. You'll need to extract the coin by removing the socket and disconnecting it before you replace the fuse. The socket may still be serviceable, or it may need to be replaced. You would judge that based on signs of burns or heat damage, as well as corrosion.

@@DrShock out of curiosity, what would happen if I disconnected the fuse before the battery? I’m very new to this so every little information helps. Thanks

@@LongHairedTurtle If you remove the correct fuse (the one actually for the accessory power socket), it's the same outcome as disconnecting the vehicles battery negative cable.

I'm reading this as your 12V accessory socket is burning out the element on your removable cigarette/cigar lighter. Not sure what else you could mean by _portable lighter_ here. So if the fuse is good to the socket, and the 12V socket is not corroded, then you want to look at the cigarette lighter element itself. Are you plugging in a genuine GM cigarette lighter element into the socket, or an aftermarket one here?

Hi Tony. The same happened to me with my 2000 Camaro. I bought Dorman lighter at Amazon and the tool was included. Where did you get yours? To make it more interesting, the plastic part of the lighter was missaligned with the steel one so I couldn’t get it in the socket. I am planning to buy the lighter at rock auto. Any experience there? Thank you for any information.

I bought mine in auto zone, and I bent the tool, the socket did not come out

yep, here's a version for where I repaired that type - kzfaq.info/get/bejne/iruSaMSKkpaogIk.html

You have to pull the power fuse before inserting the metal tool like described in the video.

@@DrShock So i hv pulled the two fuses front and back. So if i use metal, I'm ok fr blowing any other fuses or fry the whole electric in my vehicle? I dont hv anything plastic. Sorry, I just don't know about this basic fuse or electrical stuff exactly.

My sockets are 5vrs old and look rusted corroded nasty inside.. I replaced the fuses twice but everyrtime I try to use lighter they've blown.

@@ALSILVERU2 Hey sorry for delay responding, I missed these two comments earlier. So yeah just pull the negative cable from the battery. Then remove the socket and replace it. Put in a new fuse as well after you do that. Reconnect the battery and give it go. With the battery negative cable removed, it's all safe to work on electrical short wise. Just be sure you get the correct replacement socket part for your make/model/year and be sure it's plugged in correctly and you should be good to go.

Just pull out the fuse

Once the tool is in the socket notches, you're kinda _committed_ to pulling it out in order to remove the tool if nothing else. Have you tried to give it a twist first? Sometimes the plastic bezel can get melted onto the barrel of the socket.

The tool pulls the socket housing which is the metal portion of the aux port. The cigarette lighter plugs into the socket housing. After you pull it out, just like in the vid, nothing left but the retaining bezel and that unsnaps from the dash trim once the housing is removed (the housing exerts pressure on the tabs that keep the retainer held into the dash).

You don't. The extractor tool is mandatory for removal of the power socket from the trim.

I hear ya. This is stupid....stop with the special tools already...Great video though

Links in the description for what I showed.

It _should_ fit anything from GM up thru around 2020. But you should take a peek inside the socket to be sure it looks like what you see in the photo - for the presence of the square cutouts the tool fits into.

While this video is specific to GM, some models may have a retaining bezel or clip that has to be removed first even if they use the same type of tool. Just something to keep in mind. The least expensive of these removal tools will be made of aluminum, most likely Chinese, as I mentioned in the video. These are OK for relatively younger vehicles but _may_ bend if you have a socket that is stuck in there from many many years (over a decade or more). The more expensive steel version of the tool will not have this problem. Also, be sure you are not trying to _pry_ out the socket as this will more more stress on the aluminum version of the tool. Rock the "T" into the square holes in the socket barrel, straighten the tool up, and pull directly outwards. If there's still resistance, your model likely has a retaining bezel or clip that will need to be removed first.

@@DrShock Thank you for your time in answering this. Yes, I might have to buy one made out of steel. My car is a Chevy Tracker, they don’t even make these cars anymore. Struggling to keep my devices charged at the moment. I’m in a homeless situation right now, and only my car is my source for power. Good day to you

Sure, more than is required but certainly will still render the circuit safe to work on. Just verify you have no power before proceeding with the repair.

Links in the description