Thank you for taking the time to do this. I do not have a fiber, actually looking at the ComM B4 30W and I just started getting into affinity designer. I cannot tell you how nice it is to see someone use almost exactly what I plan to. Almost "everyone" shows off with Illustrator.

Finally, a simple, easy to understand explanation of how this whole process works! I had no idea that 20W laser could do 15K speed, or, you could actually get deep carvings with those other settings. Many thanks for making this video (+1 sub/thumb).

That was awesome info for 20W machines and coins! Your work here shows the value of entry level machines to add production. Great work. Thanks!!

Neo Thank you for taking the time to do all of the leg work and sharing the experimental data regarding the process. You have helped me in understanding some of the nuances and variables to contend with in creating such detailed pieces with a 20W. I look forward to learning more from you as you are patient enough to explain the important items necessary to comprehend the processes to reach the desired results. Much Respect!!

This is an excellent tutorial. I can see this process being used to creat "Challenge Coins". I am about to pull the trigger on a ComMarker B4, but now after seeing what you have done here, I am thinking about getting the heavier duty 30 Watt ( or even 50 Watt) version so I could make these in fewer passes.

Keep up the great work!

A few clarifications. The grayscale depth map gives you a possible 256 shades of gray. 3D slice mode assigns each shade a slice. Your image may or may not contain every shade, but generally speaking, cutting the number of passes down under 256 could result in you missing some "slices" which could affect your image quality. If you didn't want as deep an image, you could increase the speed or decrease the power instead of decreasing the passes. Increasing the passes beyond 256 means that some layers may be duplicated which will also increase your depth but may affect your image quality. Knowing the beam dot size of the lens you are using is also very important. Your beam dot size obviously affects your line interval. There are beam dot size calculators on the web. Lenses that can do large areas (150x150) also have a greater focus sweet spot for deeper images, but will produce less DPI because of their larger spot size, and will take longer removing material because of their decreased energy density. Lenses that have small (70x70) area will produce higher DPI with a smaller spot size, the smaller spot energy density is also more powerful and will remove material faster, however, the smaller line interval will take more time to engrave. There is always a series of practice runs necessary for every image, but you will get better at guestimating. You CAN do coin dies simply by mirroring the image and inverting the color. I have successfully made 2 sided penny restamping dies that work under a 20 ton Harbor Freight shop press.

so if I wanted to do this with silver... I know the vacuum is taking the particles away, do you think there is a way to recover the silver? Brass, copper, not a big deal, but when you start getting into etching silver probably losing a fair amount of "coin" there. 🙂 Great video!

Fascinating !! Great presentation and explanation. What was the learning curve on that Software? Good job.

Thanks for sharing this video Neo

😎 nice

interesting, someone is referring to deep engraving in its correct term: 2.5D. that is only the least reason I subbed. Great info, easy to follow.

hi sir this machine 20w or 60w?

Thanks, Its a nice machine, What is the time for 100 passes

How long did it took to engrave it?

how long is 100 passes?

So You dont need super expensive "3D" lasercthat they want to sell me? Yiu can use normal 2.5D laser

Messaged them 12 hours ago, the response I got was hi..