Hi Douglas, It really is. a Simple design change would make this so much easier for owners wanting to service their own vehicle. They could have made the exhaust line off the manifold in a better position and dropping the pay would be a breeze. Glad you got it done!

Matt Epps , the stealership wants to make it harder to service your own vehicle, though. Patience is a virtue and profitable for the owner.

Ha Ha...funny cause it's true! Thanks for contributing!

Glad you got yours done too, thanks for commenting Kenneth!

Hope you got this knocked out VDO FX!

You're very welcome...I made the video, because there wasn't any resource on you tube..glad it could help. Yeah, the pan was a booger...I would have needed a 3rd hand to hold the camera, or an official photographer. lol

Funny cause it's true! lol

Hi Fernando, you're welcome...your truck will thank you! :-)

How many miles do you have on your 02?

119k miles

Hi Zecro67, I'm sorry I missed your message earlier in the year. I just now saw it. Glad you were able to tackle yourself, that's great! I think it took me a little longer on time, probably would have gone faster without juggling a camera in one hand :-0 That seal will drive you nuts, all the way up in the transmission body. Super long nose needle nose plyers work. If it was a rubber oring seal with a metal washer inside, it would come out with a magnetic tool. Definitely could have been a better design. Glad you got it done!

Hi Swath diver. Thank you for the input! I do agree to some extent. However, Engineer design in a controlled testing environment, and real world application and service have quite a significant gap. I have heard more transmission-tragedy stories from "pressure purge and flush" from shops, and they took no responsibility. For that reason a gravity drain and using this method to clear out old fluid remnants is my personal recommendation and best practice. You can drain the entire system, evacuate and recover the old fluid...even pull a vacuum and hold pressure. But who really has all of the equipment in their home garage? This guide is meant for the average car enthusiast that does not have advanced systems that a mechanic shops have at their disposal. Ultimately do you get every drop of old fluid out? no...but if you can achieve +90% fluid exchange, then your vehicle will run smoother and thank you for it. I get that "Stealerships" and mechanic shops will sell you 101 reasons why you need to bring it their shop, pay their prices, and not do it yourself. At the end of the day, it is a big business and they need to make money. Majority of the public will take it to a shop, this video is not for them. I personally prefer to keep my money, and the peace of mind knowing I will more meticulously perform the task, because I am the one behind the wheel.

@@mattsawesomeshow The TransFlow machine at the dealership uses the transmission's pump to move fluid during an exchange. As I get older, there are fewer things that I can do myself and have to take it to a shop or enlist the help of my children or mobile mechanics. Good work on the videos, love these wagons!

Ho Robert, You're welcome. What a poor place to put the line...it was a buger for sure

chitowncaddy I think this is a damn good idea and worth it if you like to service your own vehicle

Hit chitowncaddy...curious if you ever had any pictures of the mod. Would love to see. It doesn't give you access to the donut magnet to clean any collected debris, but still great for an in between drain and fill!

chitowncaddy, your person could have just utilized the aforementioned idea and saved yourself the expended capital for the minimal amount of times that you'll be performing this rare task.

('07 Escalade ESV AWD) I'm considering a similar idea except having the cross-pipe cut, then using 2 bolt stainless strap clamps to hold the segment in place until its fluid change time. I do a lot of towing and intend a fluid change every fall. I wrote the biggest US exhaust OEM supplier and suggested factory flanges manufactured into a similar design from the git go. They have to adhere to exact GM designs and are not interested in offering after market parts.I had my fluid changed at a mom/pop shop and the manifold disconnect method was used, now I have an exhaust leak they want me to pay for the bolt the guy broke. Ask the intention of the shop if you take your's to a shop before they lay a hand on it! Kudos to Matt for purging the cooler(s) pint by pint. The draining until bubbles come out is a VERY bad idea, in other videos suggested for draining out the old fluid through the return line. Hydraulic pressure inside the tranny system holds components in precise positions and prevents damage. Drain plug is much better, I have bucket with a pump and skinny tube from Northern Tool I plan to use to suck the fluid out with. Not giving any shop another go at mine.

Damn! Smart move bro!

Very welcome!

I plan on posting the cabin filter addition when I get some time to edit the video. The Escalade doesn't come equipped with a cabin filter, don't ask me why. GM sells a retrofit kit with filter and door that allows you to add it with some cutting.

You Bet!

Hi Cynthia, you're very welcome. Glad they were able to give a little guidance on his maintenance. on the low oil pressure. Are you seeing the notification message displayed on your tachometer? That sensor should be for the regular engine oil. It's usually an indicator there is a damaged seal or gasket on the oil pan. It could even be the seal on the drain plug itself causing the loss of pressure. lose oil filter maybe. somewhere in the system you are loosing pressure, check around for leaks. When you do resolve the issue, it can take up to 50 miles of driving for the computer to reset the diagnostic sensor error. If he has a can bus code reader he can reset the error code. definitely don't want to ignore it, could damage the engine if it's not resolved!

Matt Epps the low oil pressure/turn off engine warning light is off now after replacing the oil sensor. But the check engine light and service stabilitrak/service traction control light came on. Took it back to meineke and they said a cam shaft actuator/ solenoid needs to be replaced. I have no idea what that means and I hope they're being honest and not taking advantage of a female that knows absolutely nothing about car engines. It's costing $1800 to fix with part and labor. The one thing I'm worried about is that it's also shifting hard. Meaning when it changes gears while driving, it kinda jerks. I hope this is related and it's fixed once they replace the camshaft actuator solenoid. Other than that I'm just nervous about having issues with something else they aren't catching now.☹️

Thanks Tay Seer. I used Royal Purple ATF. A little pricier but for the amount of work you are doing well worth it!

You bet!

Hello 19787FX16...please read the comments in the comments section. Two gaskets were not stacked...I filmed a segment to demonstrate, put the camera down and removed the old seal and reinstalled.

Hi sam kahill. Very true, the filter does extend into the bottom of the pan, it would likely come out with no filter installed...the filter neck is so long the lower pan has to be removed to remove it. I did actually remove all the bolts before filming this, that method didn't work for me unfortunately. I'm sure at the stealership they remove the exhaust manifold lines, and it is easier. The pry method gives you just enough space to pull the pan out. Poor design if you ask me.

Hi Oscar, It was about $5.00 bucks from Home Depot in their plumbing section, vinyl tubing...very effective!

Gladly. It could be many things. A bad lifter makes a ticking noise. Also certain aftermarket oil filters without anti drain back valve. Probably a lifter would be my guess. Dirty valves. Getting an induction cleaning is useful.

Sorry, didn't see this prior. I personally have not used Amsoil, but some of my car buddies swear by it. Synthetic with any reputable oil company is far superior than conventional. I do think some companies use superior chemicals in production. Everyone seems to have their go-to oil. I am a huge proponent of K&N...all of their products are excellent IMO. I usually replace my AF with their products. Thanks!

Hello...yep, still own the same Cadillac. When the new generation comes out next year...may be time to upgrade!

Glad that all worked out. You can keep the hose clip/clamp on and it helps a little. Just making sure you aren't removing the coolant line and in fact the transmission coolant line. The grill was on eBay...I did have to cut the old grill to make the mesh fit properly, per the instructions...but turned out nice. I did put some Sharkhyde metal protect-ant on there, and still looks good as new!

Junk my Car...ehhh...everyone does seem to have a preferred oil choice. To each their own I suppose. I've never had an issue with RP. And it makes me feel fancy when I drive my cars.

Thank you for watching. There are a few studies online, where master mechanics and racing teams have run compression tests, and oil molecule testing after running for 20,000 miles...the Royal Purple brand outperformed OEM oils every time, by maintaining molecular adhesion at a rate of 20 to 1, and the rate of flow from unchanged viscosity was far superior. This, from unbiased mechanics and racing groups. I'd really be interested to read the studies from these individuals where RP "is known to break engines" Thank you for the input however, I value your opinion.

Hello...Royal Purple ATF

@@mattsawesomeshow Thank you very much...!

How many quarts of the MAX ATF did you use? I have a 07 Ext and I'm about to do the same job you did... Thanks again for a great video.

Yes, that is protocol for most service manuals. Opposing ends tightening ensures equal sealing around the gasket. BE careful not to overtighten, the bolts will snap! then you have to use a stripped bolt extractor. Not fun!

Not removing the old seal and double stacking w/new seal was the few m.m. that made the difference between an easy/ difficult reassembly. Stress on that filter neck from bottom filter/pan interference may lead to a crack.

True...The old seal was removed in this installation prior to the following step. Since the vehicle was on the ground and not up on a lift, it was impossible to film.

The old seal was removed prior to the new filter installation. Honestly if I had a professional workshop and the vehicle up on a lift, the procedure would be completely different. Working on the ground is what 98% of vehicle owners have to work with. Seal on the filter neck works just fine. This is a guideline to help others service their vehicles...emphasis on guideline, feel free to deviate with your own method.

Hi Heath Byrum, have you tackled this yet? The method is very similar on the Yukon and Tahoe for 2007. The exhaust lines are in almost the same location.

Hi Darren, running great!

Fantastic! Great to hear. I’m about to change over to max atf this weekend

That's an excellent idea Sajid Mirza, That would be good for an in between drain and fill. The benefit of dropping the entire pan is to inspect the donut magnet for metal shaving which are an indicator of a larger problem. The magnet should be mostly clean of debris, indicating less friction and good lubrication. Draining and not dropping the pan, doesn't give you the opportunity to inspect the magnet and look for other problems. If you do every get a hold drilled and threaded, take pics or video...would love to see!

Which drain portion are you looking at? You want the transmission pan off so you can clean the magnet from any metal shavings and inspect for debris.

@@mattsawesomeshow Thanks for getting back to me, actually disregard the question I am going to be following the exact process you are using, but I would like to know how many quarts of new ATF in total did you go thru including the draining of the old ATF fluid at the end when you were starting the car briefly to get it out? BTW thanks for these great videos, they've helped a lot!!

@@markiusk3773 Hi Markius, no problem. I remembered using around 4 additional quarts to get a clean ruby red flush. Hope this helps!

Hello Stephen, if you read comments below...and understand that this video is meant as a guide. After filming the clip, I took the filter off and properly reinstalled, with the new seal, inserted first...then the filter. The challenge is not the procedure itself, but FILMING WITH A CAMERA WITH 2 FEET OF SPACE is not an easy feat. Sorry every step was not filmed to a "T" precisely. I'm confident the intelligent viewers, have figured this out. The wonderful world of filming making. I welcome you to film the procedure and post. I'll even highlight the link to your video on my channel. PREVIOUS COMMENT: The old seal was removed. In between clips...I pulled the filter out and removed the old seal after filming this clip. No double stacking. In this clip, it was simply demonstrating the procedure for filter placement. I don't have an official videographer. Filming this from the ground with 12" of clearance is no simple task. I don't own a lift, where I could place the camera on a tripod...This is meant as a guideline to help others follow. At the time I made this, there was no content on KZfaq for this procedure for the "Average Joe" which is why I made this to help others. Feel free to deviate in any way

Hi StrappingYoungComrad, I took an afternoon, evening working on it. Probably around 4 hours. It could probably be done a little sooner on your own not holding a camera, lol.

You can remove the crossmember bolts nad nuts, just remember to torque them back down to spec. You don't want frame issues. I did this on another 2008 Escalade a few years ago with lifting the tranny with a jack, it's doable that way...but I prefer the prybar method and leaving the tranny and frame cross members alone.

I wound up doing the prybar method against the exhaust and lifting with a jack on the other end. I used a piece of 3/4 inch pipe about 3 foot long. jacked up enough to push the exhaust down and clear the pan once the filter was off. Took me maybe 30 mins to do it all.

The old seal was removed. In between clips...I pulled the filter out and removed the old seal after filming this clip. No double stacking. In this clip, it was simply demonstrating the procedure for filter placement. I don't have an official videographer. Filming this from the ground with 12" of clearance is no simple task. I don't own a lift, where I could place the camera on a tripod...This is meant as a guideline to help others follow. At the time I made this, there was no content on KZfaq for this procedure for the "Average Joe" which is why I made this to help others. Feel free to deviate in any way.

Matt Epps Ahh, gotcha! Makes sense. I think you did a great job with it, just with that clip removed, i was worried the seal got double stacked... Keep up the good work! Cheers

You bet! Spring's a great time to do, before the summer heat!

No worries...I wouldn't want anyone to make that mistake. I may add and edit later, just in case. Good eye!

Hi Vk Jmr, I believe the service does call for it. If you haven't already changed it at that service interval, I would most definitely do it now. Pull out your transmission dip stick and inspect the color of the fluid. If it is not ruby red, I would guess it is darker or almost black. The molecules break down and the oil is less viable. Get it changed, it's cheaper than a new transmission!

@@mattsawesomeshow you did not remove the old transmission filter seal before installing the new seal.

I wonder the same thing, how many quarts of fluid did you need?

im old im not asc you did a fine job

Hi Cam Mim... I am turning the engine off and on so I don't let the tranny run dry. Even for a moment without ATF can create friction and catastrophic for a transmission. Better safe than sorry!

@@mattsawesomeshow I wonder if I do the Flush Method 1st then go under the car 2nd and do change the Filter. Or should I do Exactly what your doing?

@@cammims7645 You can do either, flushing with the old filter or new filter. The main purpose of the flush is to get as much of the old transmission fluid out of the tranny case. If you have a helper to turn the ignition on/off then you can skip the on/off with remote start. I didn't have a helper. I'm doing it in intervals so it does not run dry. Do not let the transmission run dry! It could seize up.

I do my tranny service every 10k so imma drain the Pan then do the Flush you did.. My last question. I have a 07 impala Ss also. With the 5.3 V8 like the 07 Tahoes. Only difference with the Impala Ss and Tahoe besides it being the Same motor on the Ss the motor is Mounted sideways. I usually do my Tranny service 10k on that too. You think I could flush the same way like how you did since the Engine is the same as the 07 tahoes? Drop the Pan then Take that cooler off the Radiator then start the Flush? Same process? You think? For the Ss ?

Hi Robert, the factory DRL? or the aftermarket ones I added? I added switch back lighting to my grill, lower inserts and side air fender insterts.

Matt Epps I believe the factory. On the headlight just below the parking lights. Are you just using a wire to connect the fuse between parking and DRL?

No. Read the comments...this was already addressed

Hi Pork Chop, yes...it can be done on those years. I believe the exhaust lines are in a slightly different position but the procedure is very similar. Did you buy one yet?

I've changed my mind I went, and got me a 2013 Chevy avalanche LT b/c its the last model for that brand. Escalades are really nice I'll get one next year only if the hybrids are around for sale.

really just patience in getting it in.

Antonio, did you have your computer reset, or put a code reader on your ODBII to read what error codes it recorded? That's is very odd behavior.

6L80E is a mediocre transmission and there's several revisions that a reputable ATRA transmission shop will make when they do a rebuild. Your problem sounds like a valve body or solenoid issue.

About 4 hours

1 of 3 would be nice lol

Hello Joel. KZfaq removed the video due to copyright on the music playing in the background. Even though it was not added music just the radio on in the background. Silly. I'm going to edit out the music and upload again soon.

Matt Epps Thanks brother your videos are just very informative and awesome!!!

Hi Barrington. A couple of issues can cause that diagnostic code to appear. Generally related to Camshaft position. If you have a OBD code reader, you can reset the code...run the engine and see if it comes back. Make sure the engine is full, clean new oil....correct viscosity. Checkout this read up I found that can help you troubleshoot the source of the problem: www.yourmechanic.com/article/p0011-obd-ii-trouble-code-camshaft-position-a-timing-over-advanced-or-system-performance-bank-1-by-jay-safford

Hi Billy, I'm not sure what you are saying in your comment. You can also call Royal Purple support as I did, and they confirmed compatibilty for my vehicle. Royal purple MAX is a viable choice for replacing your ATF. Manufactures often recommend their own replacement parts and fluids over aftermarket (sometimes superior to OEM) for obvious reasons...money

Hi Cam Mims, If you aren't sure when the last fluid change was I would pull that transmission dip stick and look at the color of the fluid. Drop it on a pieced of white cardboard for color contrast. Red is GOOD dark is BAD. If it is very dark the molecules are comping in bonded in the ATF and it would be due for a change. Leaving it with the old fluid will wear on your transmission. Going with a premium ATF and getting the old out will be like new life and shifting to your transmission. Good luck!

Matt Epps I did drop the pan and I took out six quarts and added in what I took out the color is still a golden brown but remember mines takes 12 quarts and I only took out six quarts keep in mind this is from a 2007 Yukon Denali

6L80 probably

Hi Barry, Congrats on the new ride! You'll really enjoy it, and welcome to the Cadillac owners family! I don't know anyone off hand near you. My Brother in law lives in Manhattan, but he doesn't own a car, so he wouldn't be able to recommend anyone. Go to Cadillac owners.com website...and join. It's the Cadillac owners community, and I'm sure someone near you can drop a good reference. Its not overly difficult to do yourself. I have faith you can do it! Enjoy your new wheels!

Hi Kenneth...So I used an additional 4.5 quarts (in the purging process) To pump through the transmission to clear out all the old fluids. I have a 6.2 L - Flex Fuel model. Check this cross reference guide to match your Escalade Model: Total Fill Mentioned (from Dry) 12.4 quarts. www.amsoil.com/mygarage/vehiclelookup.aspx?url2=2010+CADILLAC+ESCALADE+F

Ok That's what I was wondering. I assumed you used 6 to fill the pan back up and then an additional 4.5 to clear the lines so about 10.5 quarts total. I'm going to get 12 to make sure I have enough. Thanks.

Good deal...Better to have more than not enough. Good luck!

I bought a case of 12...and ended up returning a couple. Better to have an need, than need and not have. Especially if working on it takes you into the night and the auto store is closed!

Hey Matt, what is your opinion on if I only for the pan drop, and change filter and refill what came out of pan? I’m kind of nervous of the purging process through the radiator lines. I know I would be changing out probably 1/2 the old fluid with this approach, but perhaps that will provide additive package? Also, do you think Ok to mix Full Sythetic ATF with OEM fluid left behind in the tranny? Our Escalade 07 AWD currently at 168K miles and history shows had tranny service close to 80K miles and I’m just trying to keep it up, Ty!

Hello Rohen, Yes...I hope to have it uploaded later this week.

thanks man. great video. so helpful

Jesse Sherman that’s what I was thinking.

Running great...tight and lean!

I was wondering the same. I'm about to change the ATF in my 2006 Cadillac DTS with Royal Purple. I'm glad Matt's Escalade is still running good. I am going to use the RP in my DTS in a few weeks. It has 110K and is due. Thanks for the video Matt.

Mike....did you not read my "Note" in the description???

Mechanic shops use a flush machine which puts pressure on the Transmission which can be catastrophic. This method uses the engine and transmissions own components to flush the fluid out of the transmission. Then you can safely gravity fill with new ATF

Yeah I was told by my pops to never let them put a flush machine because it’ll mess it up and put things were they don’t need to be , my Escalade has exactly 212xx miles and tbh I’m scared to do the flush because I don’t want my transmission to get ruined . Do you think I’ll be okay

@youngbreezy5390 it would be safe to do on your own in my opinion. I would be reluctant to have a shop pressurize your tyranny system with high mileage. This method is safe if done correctly. I think some shops you sign a waiver that if they damage your tyranny doing a flush that you can't sue them.

I was also told that if you do a flush on a high mileage vehicle like mine that it could damage the transmission do you think I should be okay ? Cause I was just thinking about draining the fluid than refilling instead of doing a flush

You can gravity drain but some of the old ATF will still be in the tranny. You might only get a 70% change of fluid that way

Sorry, I don't own that generation Escalade

Hello Ryan...this is meant as a guide to help diy vehicle owners perform vehicle maintenance, feel free to deviate to your preferred method. I'm not an ASE master mechanic, following GM certified star tightening protocol. Lets relax a little, it isn't a neurological craniotomy, the pan will be fine with this tightening method. We all do things differently, thanks for commenting.

Me too. I know I was on the right line too. I just put it back to do more research. What did you do.

Yes it was.

FACTS!!

Torque spec is directly from GM. Also in dozens of forums and in the Haynes manual. Sounds like you cross threaded and stripped the bolt on your own. So because you "snapped" a bolt it's my fault? You need to have some degree of skill to perform these maintenance tasks. Any number of things could have occurred. Faulty torque wrench, wrong torque setting, stripped bolt, cross threaded, ect. It's a "guide" to perform the maintenance. Always check your year, make, model vehicle to check fill capacities, specs prior to performing maintenance, and most importantly, don't blame the content creator for your own mistakes.

@@mattsawesomeshow No cross threading here. I thought there was an issue with the torque wrench not clicking, so I tested it on a bolt under the hood. Everything worked fine. As I’m tightening the bolts, I’m thinking in my head, “damn, this feels like it might be too tight, what’s going on?” That should’ve been the moment I went on Google and got the correct torque specs. So that’s my bad, I should’ve gotten a second opinion. I understand it’s only a guide but I’ve watched dozens of videos on oil pan gasket replacement, timing cover replacement, timing chain replacement, differential install and removal; I just got done with a pretty intense rebuild on my 07 Escalade regarding the aforementioned. No issues whatsoever; not with torque or anything - I barely had to consult other sources. Maybe somehow the bolts are different from what I have with what you have. But I’m very certain these are not supposed to be torqued to 13ft lbs. I’m looking at them and they’re way too small for that. I have found 2-3 sources saying 80, 89, and 106in lb, which converts to about 7-8, maybe 9ft lb. Which in hindsight would’ve been a perfect torque spec. I’m obviously taking responsibility for this. I should’ve known something wasn’t right when I’m applying that much force to make a seal between two metal parts with a rubber gasket in between. But when it comes to future videos and torque specs, please triple check, that you’re telling your viewers accurate information, ESPECIALLY for torque specs. I watch these videos to mainly get tips and general ideas how something is done. When I hear a content creator mention a torque spec, I’m inclined to trust and believe them without verifying. At this point in time, I’m past the initial frustration I was feeling with this video when my bolt snapped. It was the rear corner bolt that I have relatively easy access to without flexing the exhaust pipe out of the way and/or removing the pan entirely. Just need to find my extractor kit now and drill it out. It’s not the end of the world. Again, maybe the issue was truly on my end but from what I can gather, torque wrench (relatively new) is fully operational, there was no cross threading, all bolts were perfectly fine. The best source I found is 89in lb and to torque in a specific sequence.

No. The coolant is in another video... #3. This video has nothing to do with coolant. If you observe, this method of adding ATF allows the old ATF to flush through without running the tranny dry. Check your eyes.

Hello Marco "this guy" did remove the seal....please read the aforementioned comments. I filmed this segment demonstrating the installation of the filter...put the camera down and took it back out before final installation. The seal was removed before final installation. Good eye...however difficult to efficiently hold a camera and perform vehicle maintenance while under a vehicle. Thank you for commenting.

Steven, I can show you study after study where a pressurized flush causes more damage to the vehicle. This video is a self flushing fluid still in the tranny @ 35:40. Really intended as a helpful guide for a DIY vehicle owner to perform at home, that doesn't work at a mechanics shop with access to expensive tools. Good to know the vehicle is at least 75% improved.

Matt Epps never said doing a pressurized flush was good. I said doing a filter change itself is pointless if leaving 75% burnt fluid in. You can flush out most of the burnt fluid by simply draining the fluid and refill. Run a few miles and let it mix and then drain again. Doing this will dilute the burnt fluid out. Yes it takes a whole lot of extra fluid but it can give you about a 80 to 90 % fluid change. And the whole dilution process works. Want proof. Go check out how a salt water aquarium water change affects the system.

So simple to do if they had. I'm sure they can make more money on the service from owners forced to bring it in!

Huh

The old seal was pulled out. I didn't film it because it's difficult to hold a camera and pull a pan simultaneously. After this take I pulled the seal. Rest assured the pan was not pulled again...running like a champ. Thanks for your concern

@@mattsawesomeshow if that's the case you should have stated that in the video.

Read the comments...