I'm 64, I still use a shovel.

Thanks!

I’m not sure if it is required in your area, but in south Missouri we have to use an expansion coupling any time conduit penetrates through earth. Helps with the conduit not warping or pulling the junctions apart whenever the backfill compacts or the house settles. Also, in my opinion oatey fusion is the BEST pvc glue for service laterals. It stays gummy for a little while longer and whenever hot pvc goes into cool earth, it will contract a bunch. Always seems to happen worse in the summer time, so the fusion glue helps with it not busting open over time. It just helps if you ever have to pull new conductors 4 or 5 years later. Great video, you guys both seem like very hard workers and do very high quality work! Thanks for the video!

@@alexg0097 That product claims it's self-priming too, so it's a one-step for both electricians and plumbers. Is it a purple glue that will satisfy plumbing inspection? These guys are down in Arkansas, maybe it's south enough where they don't need PVC expansion couplings.

@@aaron74 I have heard from the inspector in Jonesboro Arkansas that they don’t “require” expansion couplings. They just recommend them if the riser isn’t encased in concrete. But that was just one inspectors take on it. It is not a purple primer, but I feel like I had a plumber tell me he had used it to connect PVC to ABS with it. But, i’m an electrician, not a plumber if you know what I mean lol. Here in the southeast of missouri it gets really sandy or really rocky. There is basically no difference. In the sand I have seen almost a foot of settling on some risers, so I just always put them in and tell both of my guys to put them on every new service

@@alexg0097 Yeah I suppose expansion couplings can never hurt. It's good insurance to prevent a possible problem later!

Thats when you pour 2" of cement over it so you only need 6 or 12" depth 😂

Its called a slip fitter.

i just put the can in a zip lock bag.

@@Pepe-dq2ib Check for leaks. The cement will eat up a sandwich bag.

@@leftylou6070 never had that happen, maybe because i use up a can in less than 3 months.

@@Pepe-dq2ib I've never had a can more than a day and a half.

@@leftylou6070 i mainly work with emt.

We call for the inspection after we lay the pipe. We use sweeping 90’s that are 3’. We do so much work in that area the inspectors know us quite well. We use the temporary power pole until we have complete the service. We have the utilities company disconnect the temp and terminate the power to the new dwelling at the same time.

They do not require an expansion coupling in our pvc runs in my area unless the prints specify it. Yes, we use wet vacuums to pull string if we get it loaded up on the truck 😂

They may do it for you for a fee however a local residential contractor can handle it. As far as multiple utilities going in the same ditch, they probably will have to be separated either by depth or width. AT&T will likely send their own contractors to do the work. Thanks for watching!

Yes, the utility company in my area will pull in their conductors in the conduit once the city passes the inspection on the service. That’s why we put the string in the conduit. They are a bunch of babies. 😜🤪

So the code actually says 25 ohms of resistance or less and if you can not achieve that, then an extra ground rod is required. Our soil allows us to achieve those values so we are allowed by code and by our local authority having jurisdiction to use the single grounding electrode.

Yes

Yes, I filmed will a GoPro. It’s hard for me to film everything I do. The battery don’t last long.

@@Kisselectric you did a great job! I might try that method! Thanks!

No, unless it is in the specifications.

Scheduled 80 on the 90 and vertical

What about the wire sizes?

In our area, fiber is being installed by a separate contractor. Depending on the builder or home owner we will run coax, cat 5 or cat 6 to bedrooms and a drop in the living room.

I was told that nothing else can go into that trench. No communication, no low voltage, no water supply lines, etc. Is that true? There should be no electrical interference with fiber optic, but could save some money on digging another trench. Does the same principle apply to running service to a shed or another building on the property from the main meter ?

@@mar1video I guess it depends on the jurisdiction. When they built my new construction, they had a single trench for all electrical, telco, and coax. The single trench ran about 150 yards.

@@drwhoeric - I’m always trying to find out more details before the project to avoid surprises

It typically takes me 2 hours to wire a 200 amp panel. Really depends on how many home runs we have but that’s pretty close. There are people that can make pretty panels. Mine are just ok at best because I gotta get it done and I don’t have a lot of time to waste on making it “pretty”.

I will try to get you a video though.

@@Kisselectric if you were installing a new panel, but knew you were going to add a sub panel beside it in the future, could you leave an extra couple feet of wire rolled up above the main panel? How would you do it?

Sub panels are fed from a main panel. There are steps that could be taken to leave conductors safed off in a main so you could set a sub panel later. Depending on the location of the sub panel if you left conductors in an attic you would have to place them in a j-box with a cover incase they were to become energized.

@@Kisselectric I should've been more clear...the future sub panel would be for a solar inverter to power up, not directly from the main panel...I'm wondering how to leave an extra couple feet on the wire to reach the sub panel when solar is installed...will it break code to have a couple extra feet of wire wrapped above the main panel? It will make the sub panel so much easier...

80’ and 4/0 aluminum

The code says 25 ohms of resistance or less to ground is required and if it isn’t then add another grounding electrode. In most cases around here due to the fact that the earth has good soil.

Install a big red light outside your room. “Quiet now” . It will be helpful in many situations 😜

I agree with you as far as there is a potential for water to get behind it. I believe the siding guy will J-channel around it and also break in some aluminum. Thanks for watching!

That's what I thought too and it was kind of strange that he only did one rod.

I will have to do a grounding electrode video. There are exceptions to the second grounding electrode. Also, it really depends mostly on the authority having jurisdiction (inspector).

You only need1rod as your supplementary grounding electrode if you have a ufer ground or a cold water pipe grounding electrode with at least 10' of bonded copper water pipe extending from the house. After the 10' you can change to plastic.

Your riser coming up out of the earth really should have been rigid or imc conduit, not plastic.

@@johndavies2949 No supplementary electrode needed with a ufer.