That's great! So happy to hear the channel helped you get into your Kawasaki!

just bought the same thing and have been working on it

Best of luck! Glad the video helped 👍

Glad I could help!

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Happy to help! 😁

Thank you. Glad I could be of help!

Glad it helped!

Glad you got the bike sorted now!

This might sound odd but if this bike in particular sat outside in the rain it likely got water in the gas tank. When I had this bike, it had this issue. I suspect the seal around the gas cap on the top of the tank wasn’t watertight. For a while, me and a friend thought the bike had carb issues because like you said it would have a hard time starting or sputter on acceleration, but it turns out it was just water sitting in the bottom of the gas tank getting sucked up into the carburetters instead of gas. Drain off the carburetors and drain out the entire gas tank, fill the gas tank with fresh gas and don’t leave the bike in the rain and hopefully that solves your problem. Best of luck! What a funny coincidence for you to find this video.

@@Calvinm Definitely got it running but I do beleive I have a stuck float as it will idle but pour out fuel from the overflow! The guy I got it from showed me your channel, hopefully it’s up and running by the end of the month! Appreciate the help aswell!

Thanks!

Sounds like some carb cleaning is in your future. Good luck!

Adjust the idle knob it’s by where you turn your fuel on and the reserve… might be turned to high , most likely it is turn down to the left a little once it’s warmed up

Were you using a JIS screwdriver? They're not pozi or philips...

@@theonemanyuri nope. Found out about that AFTER the fact.

The best advice I got to not strip screws is to use a vice grip to loosen them, worked like a charm

Sounds like you need to adjust the slack on the throttle cable on the acceleration side. Or you’ve installed it in a way that’s pinching the throttle cable. There should be some adjustment at the handlebar. Good luck!

Yep it ran well, I don't really see this misalignment you're talking about. It's basically impossible to put the membrane cover in upside down or backwards because of the slide shape.

@@Calvinm I see what he’s talking about. The he’s saying the cap/cover is on 180* out. The little nub that’s poking out near the intake side of the carburetor on the one he is tightening isn’t supposed to be there it’s supposed to go the other way. It’s definitely on wrong unless you guys fixed it after that clip

Yes it can help. But if a jet is completely blocked the seafoam will have a hard time working it’s magic.

Don’t junk it! Sounds like it needs a carb clean. The pilot or idle jets are likely blocked if it doesn’t want to stay alive at lower rpm’s

It's small, but they are there I can send you a link with better pics where they are if you need it

On my 99 it’s a regular phillips head screw not too sure about the 00

Ya give it a shot. As long as you don’t loose any of the small parts inside the carb then you can’t mess it up terribly. Just be organized and take lots of pictures as you disassemble. Good luck!

@@Calvinm Just want to say that following your guide I managed to successfully do it with some help from friends, and I finally have a working bike after 6 months. Thank you so much for your thorough guidance and support ^^

We used a can or aerosol brake cleaner.

@@Calvinm Brilliant. Thanks for the reply 👍

Hey there, looks like the carbs are a different models between 1995 and 2000. They are fundamentally similar but slightly different placement of screws and castings. I’m sure they are very similar to clean and service though. Good luck!

You don’t “need” to sync carbs after cleaning them because the cleaning shouldn’t change the synchronization BUT syncing carbs is the next step is solving a carburetor issue.

Sounds like the carbs could use a cleaning. Couldn’t hurt.

Brake clean and carb clean are interchangeable in my mind. The difference is that brake cleaner is harsher on plastics and rubbers so if you’re going to use brake clean on your carb just remove all rubber and plastic components before cleaning. Either will clean effectively though. Good luck 👍

Gotta have some comedic relief 😂

Depends on how the bike is stored for long periods of time. If you ride the bike almost everyday then you might not ever have to do this unless there is sediments in your fuel or tank that makes its way into the carbs. Usually you have to clean carbs because they sat for a few months with gas in them. The gas evaporates and leaves the dissolved solids in the gasoline in the small passages of the carbs. Best way to avoid this if you have to store the bike is to drain the carb bowls before parking the bike. This way there is no gas to leave any residue behind. 👍

@@Calvinm o

Near Vancouver!

Check for leaks once the fuel line is reconnected. Prime the carbs by turning the key to "on" and activating your fuel pump a couple times then try starting the bike. It may take a few cranks before the bike fires up because it has to fill all four carb bowls with gas. Double check for leaks, and if the bike won't idle, or idles high, you likely have a vacuum leak on a carb boot between cylinder head and carb.

Good point, we were playing a risky game haha

That is no small tip my friend, thats a BIG tip. Its a rookie mistake so dont do it. coz it will make you cry!!

short for (gas)oline

I'm fairly certain Calvin MC is from Canada, as he pronounces "z" as zed. Us Americans do not do this. However gasoline seems to be misspelled from the word cazeline, which changed to gazeline, and gasoline from there. Generations after followed the strange notion to call it gasoline (gas for short). Some patterns are just set in stone.