I found the perfect part for the end pieces for the cables - sleeve nuts @ True Value hardware. They are cylinders, threaded inside, and come in various sizes. I cut the nut to the proper length, drilled a hole through the middle of the side, put the cable through the hole, put locktite in both ends, and tightened screws (cut to the proper length) into both ends. So far it has held up almost 2 years. I recommend also replacing the hinge & rollers, as the rollers are likely worn due to the age of the Oddessey. Mine is a 2003. I hope to keep it a long time. CHL.

Thanks Mike for sharing your technique in replacing the door cables for the Honda Odyssey. It took me two attempts before I finally got the passenger rear door to work properly. Some lessons learned that I can share with others include: 1. Get the 1/16" steel wire (coated with green plastic) and not electrical wiring - 1st attempt failure. 2. Cut the cables to the dimensions that Mike stated front at 5' 1" and back 6' 9". Does not have to be precise but close. 3. Position door in the open position and work the back cable first (attach to the door bracket, feed through from the outside and wind on the larger white spool then place back on the motor shaft) ensure you are about 9 inches of cable showing on the outside from the bracket to the black rubber covered pulley. 4. Attached the shorter cable to the door bracket and feed through the other black covered pulley to the smaller diameter white take-up reel then place onto the motor shaft. 5. Manually close the door and note any problems with the cables attached to the white reel. You might want to adjust the smaller diameter white reel to apply more tension to the cables. 6. Manually open the door to the full open position to ensure cables are working properly and place the cover plate back over the motor (note you will see two inspection slots for each cable pulley and you can see and mark where the center point is for both cable pulleys. There may be black markings already next to each inspection slot. Each pulley center point should be close to each other with some tension. 7. Manually close the door and repeat the process described in step 6. 8. If satisfied reconnect the two electrical cables to the door motor and test the sliding door automatically. 9. For some reason I could not get my door to go fully closed (it worked OK going open). so I tightened the cable tensioner (small diameter white reel), manually closed the door, reconnected the motor's electrical connectors then from the front dash gave the passenger rear door a depressed "Closed" position (I believe this helped reset the close sensing solenoid). After that my door cycled just fine. Again I'm just sharing my trials and tribulations, but Mike Pier is the man that I tip my hat off to.

Wow, I used what is explained here and my door is perfectly fine. thank you for share this!

I wanted to say thanks Mr. Pier, this video was very helpful and I just successfully finished my wife's 2003 Odyssey passenger side door repair. I made a few mistakes but went back over the video several times before finally getting it right. The first mistake I made was trying to adjust the length of the cables after installing them. The second mistake I made was not getting the crimped aluminum things oriented correctly in the outer spool. The way I had it, the cable protruded outside the spool surface. I thought that I could just bend the cable in a 90 degree angle right after the crimp. This protruding cable, plus the excess cable seemed to be the reason why it tangled after about the tenth opening/closing test. I went back to Home Depot and got more cable. I also went to Lowe's and bought some 1/16" ferrules and they turned out to be better. They were a little bit longer than the Home Depot ones and this allowed me to drill a 3/32" hole perpendicular to the pre-drilled hole. I routed the stripped cable end through the new hole and crimped it and it appears to be working perfectly with the cable passing through the channel just like it is supposed to. Before doing that though, I cut the cables to 5'2" and 6'10" - one inch longer than Mr. Pier's direction. The reason for this is during the original tests described above, the cable ends slipped through the copper ground lug. This may be because I did not strip the insulation, and did not tighten adequately. To solve this problem, I stripped more insulation - hence the added inch for each cable - then I passed the cable through the lug and then folded the cable and passed it back through from the opposite direction. I then put Loctite on the set screw and tightened it as much as I could. It helped to build that end of the cable away from the roller assembly. By doing it away from the roller assembly, I was able to hold it with a set of pliers and really torque down the set screw. I didn't do that the first time and that may have contributed to the slipped joint. You have to be careful not to have too much of the folded part of the cable out of the lug as it will make it difficult to place it in the roller assembly. I had to spend some time pounding the excess back into the hole. I think that doing this might make it less likely for the cable to pull through again. Again, thanks Mr. Pier, the job went well and I would highly recommend watching this video to others who have this problem.

(continuation) This video was a great help. Honda won’t sell just the cable. They sell the entire motor assembly to the tune of around $500, so you saved me a bunch.

Mike, you're video continues to be a great resource for Odyssey owners. I used your technique to fix my passenger side door yesterday and it works great. Thanks.Here are some things that I found helpful: 1. I used Dorman 03337 1/16 cable stops as suggested by AKGofer to attach the cable to center roller. They are the perfect size to fit into the center roller. The hole size to accept the cable needs to be increased. I used a 5./64" bit and held the piece steady with a pair of pliers. I cranked down the screws really tight, so much so that the screw head broke off. I don't think these will come apart. 2. I used the Dorman 03336 assorted size cable stops to attach the cable to the drum and pulley. The smallest in this assorted pack are the perfect diameter to fit into the drum and pulley. The height needs to be decreased with a file or a grinder to get the cable to fit perfectly into the grooves on the drum and pulley. I also had to hacksaw off the screw head after cranking down the screws. Again, I don't think these will come apart. 3. I removed the drum and pulley. I opened the door all the way, wrapped the rear cable around the drum (big outer wheel) and then replaced the drum being careful to any slack in the cable. I then replaced the drum and wrapped the front cable around the drum and into the pulley. Again, being careful to remove any slack from the cable.That was it.

Just did this repair over the past weekend. Worked perfect. Took about three hours. No problems. Did both cables on the driver door. Exact parts from Home depot were $8.50. THANKS!

My passenger slider is fixed because of your instruction. Thank you. Just a couple of tips to help others as I was doing the job...run the cable into the van from the outside in. It's nearly impossible, especially the back of the van to run it from the pulley to outside. You can do the crimping inside the van. If you unplug the motor, be sure to disconnect the battery to reset. If you don't, the motor will not operate. Like me, I thought I needed to replace the motor after all of that work. My educated guess paid off. Hey, took me two times because I didn't crimp the ferro enough and the cable slipped off the first time.

Thank you for the video. It helped a lot.For the end cable that goes outside on door roller I used the indicated lugs .but instead of screwing the cable tight I doubled it up and pushed in till almost came out out the other hole then I filled the screw hole with soldering paste and soldered the cable in. For the inside ends I bought (actually had them, I'm an electrical contractor) Crimp Sleeve the ones some contractor use to crimp the grounding wires together instead of wire nuts. Home depot 10-310C GB Gardner Bender copper 18-10. I drilled a hole in the center , pushed the cable in it and looped it till the loop almost came out of the non flared end. I soldered it in and used grinder to shave off the flared ring. Perfect fit on both ends of the cable. There is no need to alter anything else as this cable is just as good as the original

Thanks a ton, Mike. I had inadvertently tangled my cables by leaving too much slack when replacing the center roller on my Odyssey. Your solution was much better than a new $500 motor/cable assembly. I couldn't have figured out how to do this without your video, and I did it all with the motor in place, though I did have to remove the two plastic take-up pulleys. I also found that Dorman HELP! 03337 Brass Cable Stops, which I bought on Amazon (some auto parts stores have them, but none in my area), were another solution to cable stops instead of the ground lugs. The Dorman stops have a smaller hole for the cable to go into than the ground lug you used, and I figured that they would provide a stronger hold. Actually, the Dorman holes are a little bit too small to accept the cable, and I had to slightly enlarge them (see below). I cut down the height of the Dorman set screws with a Dremel so that the assembly wouldn't be so tall. I increased the size of the hole that the cable goes into in the cable stop with a 5/64" drill bit in a drill press. The resulting hole was the perfect size for accepting the stripped cable end, and I've experienced no slipping. I also had to increase the diameter of the hole into which the stops go in the plastic take-up pulleys. I did this with a drill press and ensured that I only drilled as deep as necessary to accommodate the Dorman cable stop. I don't recall what size drill bit I used -- maybe 11/32" or 23/64"? Measure carefully!. Modding the stops and plastic take-up pulleys took about 20 minutes for the four stops and two pulleys.

Thanks, man! I bought components as described and fixed the door in my 2004 Odyssey myself. I did have some trouble with the grounding lug pulling off. I ended up tinning the cable end with solder prior to attaching the lug. It then stayed on. I also had some difficulty getting the front cable properly wrapped around the spool. Opening the door fully, and first wrapping the rear cable around the spool, then wrapping the short amount of front cable made it go a lot easier. (continued)

Really helpful information. Just fixed my 2004 odyssey. One tip that might help others struggling to remove the main pulley (the opening side pulley): Partially screw two screws into the main pulley (after the closing pulley has been removed), grab the ends of the screws with two pairs of pliers, and off it will come. Remove the screws after the pulley is off. The plastic is pretty brittle, so any kind of prying from the side will likely chip the wire channels. I learned this the hard way. This also means an adequate pilot hole should be drilled prior to screwing into the pulley. Thanks!.

Have a 2003 EXL and my drivers side broke on Monday morn...It's now tue and with all parts mentioned, my sliding door is just like new again...Thank you for the video....The only problem I encountered was that when I was in the van rerouting the cable(s) back onto the pulley(s), I was doing it with the door closed and trying and kept jamming.....NOTE: When rerouting the cables back onto the pulley(s), make sure the sliding door is in the open position...It started working again, but would not open completely and noticed there was a little slack....Made some minor adjustments and door works perfectly..Fully open and fully closed :)

A big thanks for this video. Right now, the door is working! One reminder, for those you can't assume know what they are doing, you can pull the larger pulley out as well to set the 'opening' cable. Everything else is working great!

By the way, I did this for my passenger-side door, used the cable lengths suggested for the driver side in this video as a starting point, and then checked them against my mangled cables. The 5'1" and 6'9" lengths seemed about right and worked for me on the passenger side of my 2002 EX. I think that the take-up pulleys are referred to as the drum (big outer) and pulley (smaller, inner that ratchets against the drum). I removed both from the motor shaft (not easy to do with the motor in place), wound the rear cable around the drum, installed the drum on the shaft, and then wound the front cable around the drum and ultimately around the inner pulley, and then installed the pulley on the shaft (inside of the drum). You have to be really careful about taking out the slack and ensuring you don't kink the cable. I watched this video several times to make sure I had it right.

Excellent video, helped tremendously especially with going to Home Depot for the components. Thank you very much!

Success!!! My issue was a brown unplugged harness above the pulley/ motor I'd unplugged while d/c the door panel. Reconnected everything and WOW! Nice to save money. Thanks Mike Pier and Johnny D!!!

The first time I fixed it as you directed but the cable pulled out of the brass fitting ruining the front cable which I hadn't replaced, Since I had to fix the front and rear cable I got the idea to do it in one piece. I used the brass lugs as you showed but ran the cable in one piece all the way through the roller. It ran right under the center roller.

Just an Update, we picked up a new 2015 Odyssey Touring Elite last month, so just as I was about to sell my 2003 and put it in the classified, wouldn't you know it, the cable broke/ pulled out of the ground lug. So I spent a few hours putting new cables in, but this time I double looped it into the ground lug, plus I dipped the cable in epoxy first before inserting into the ground lug, so there is no way it is going to come out again. I did manage to sell my van at a decent price.

Thanks for the video, super useful. I fixed my sliding door just as your video. I did dip the ends of the cable in some epoxy. Thanks.

On the Odyssey, the cable gets wound around a few times, but is still secured by a ferrule at the end of the cable. The ferrule sits inside the pulley housing. I'm not familiar with the Sienna's, but if you take it apart and it looks similiar, you can apply the same principles from the Odyssey and repair it.

Not sure if I mentioned this, but in order to take out excess slack in front cable, the door must be open so the front cable is fully extended out. You cannot do this when the door is closed .

I have not done the passengers side, but I would have to think the lengths of the cables are the same. If you notice you have slack, it can be adjusted by the inner pulley. If you take the inner pulley handle by your 2 fingers and turn it clockwise or counterclockwise( depending what side door you are working on), it will tighten the slack. To loosen the cables, you pull out the inner pulley slightly with your 2 fingers to unlock , and rotate the opposite way

Great video, thanks for all the info!

Thank you for making the video!! It worked perfect!

I replaced the cable in one piece running it through the door roller as the cable wouldnt stay attached to the brass fitting. Otherwise this video was great!!

Adjusting the cable will only take out the slack, but it should not affect the length once both cables are secured to the door and motor. Perhaps the roller assembly was not put on the door correctly. It has room for adjustments on the mounting bolts. I would loosen the bolts just enough so as the door closes, it can move to its "happy" position. Then tighten the bolts.

Thanks Mike! You made a difficult job that would have cost a bunch, cost $8

I wish you would have shown how the cable winds into the pulleys on the inside while you were showing all that other stuff at about 2:50 in the video .

Can you show or describe how to properly route the cable onto the outer drum and inner pulley?

Hahaha nice you saved me big money great repair buddy

Johnny D. I tried the approach you mentioned. And same thing. I guess I'm done. This looks so easy but why won't my door just open? I'm done. Manual door on the left it is

My problemending up being the rear pully was seized. I could run the cable thru it but it kept grabbing. I tried to grease it but it would not run smoothly. After 2 days working on I just pulled the cable and unplugged the motor. I now have a constant light on my dash. My husband was amused because I refused to even pay for a $150 part of ebay. Car has 170,000 miles and my kids are old enough to open the door. My husband was amused by me.

I'm surprised most of you are having problems with the cable pulling off the ground lugs because mine are still fine and have not budged. But it certainly does not hurt to tin them as someone else suggested.

Is there a way on a 2004 Odyssey to simply just cut the cables and allow the door to manually open and close easily like my friends 2005 model does manually?

I stripped the insulation off the wire.

the problem with my odyssey is that it will not latch.everything else works normally.I don't know if you looked at the closer motor,but would this size cable work with the latch assembly? This video shows the cable for the latch portion. How to fix a Honda Odyssey automatic sliding door that will not latch Also, is there any way to confirm that it is indeed the cable that's broken rather than something else before ripping the panels off the door?I already tried the fuse trick.Another post on another website showed that one person replaced the latch assembly but it wasn't the problem.He tried to test the voltage at the door contacts and found there was no voltage to the contacts when the door closed,so he assumed it might be a sensor that is not sending voltage to the closer motor.That is the reason I ask if there are ways to tell if it is the cable or motor for sure before tearing the door apart.I am not particularly savvy with electrical parts.Any help would be appreciated. Thanks.

i wish you showed how to route the cable...i cant find any videos

Are you sure you are using the longer cable for the rear and not the front? The video above is for the drivers side door, so looking at the motor, the longer cable comes in on the left of the motor, and the shorter comes in on the right. For the passengers side its the opposite. The shorter cable comes from the left,and the longer cable comes in on the right.

so perhaps the reason why both my sliding doors close then pop back open is due to stretched cables?

I'm curious... did ou strip the housing off before you attached it to the ground lug? I had issues with it pulling out when I stripped it. When I left the housing on, it held secure. (However, leaving the housing on was counter-intuitive for me.) Anyway... thanks for the instructions. I tackled both doors this weekend, and now I have a happy family!

THIS WILL NOT WORK WITH 2011 AND UP ODYSSEYS!! I BOUGHT THE GREEN CABLE BUT IT IS TOO BIG!! They made the cable very thin in the new odysseys. Another video mentioned to use the 1/16 cable without the viny covering

we are trying to figure out how to get the ground lug on the ends of the cable. we went to Home Depot and several other stores with no avail. where did you guys get yours? how did you attached the cable to a ground lug?

Does the cable need to be coated, or will plain galvanizes cable work??

Assuming that it is the cable, will my door's motor make any noise? My door does NOT make any electronic noise at all. It is as if there is no power going to it at all...no beeping or anything. Do you think it would be the cable?

Where do you get the grounding lug? We've been unsuccessful. Please help. Thanks

I am having trouble after watching the video. Everything looks fine. Try to open the drivers door and it stops about an inch and there's an audible alarm smh HELP

How long did it work

02 Honda Odyssey Power Sliding Door Repair for Under $10. I just did mine this morning. See if any info from my short video helps. Especially check my about notes.

Mine keeps slipping off and getting caught in the pulley. This didn't work for me. Oh, and kill Honda for not selling the cables without the motor.