Another tip. That sepentine belt can be very difficult to remove and reinstall. If you remove the top bolt of the alternator first you get some play in the alternator itself which removes some of the tension on the belt. Then it becomes much easier to remove the belt when you manipulate the tensioner pulley. Same thing when re-installing the new alternator. Put the belt back on before installing the top bolt. You will need to use the tensioner when installing the top bolt, but it is fairly easy, far far easier than installing the belt with that top bolt in.

Fantastic video. Be patient with wiggling it out this way. Takes a bit. But super easy putting everything back together. 1.5 hrs out and only 20 minutes putting it all back together

This....was.....great.....! Though getting the alternator out took experimenting at every angle I coule think of. Ended up using the tensioner tool to move the tensioner out of the way and prying the alternator against the AC line. New "slimmer" alternator went in with no problems. Thanks for the video

I just completed this swap on a 2006 Odyssey EX following the method in this video. I was able to complete the entire job, including replacing the idler pulley, in 2.5 hours. When it came to removing the alternator from its location, (once the bolts were out), it was definitely a 'pain in the ass' and for a moment it seemed like it wouldn't come out. You have to try basically every angle, and get the alternator pulley facing up, to get it out, while keeping the a/c hose and washer fluid reservoir out of the way, while pushing the top idler pulley bolt all the way towards the firewall. It would help to have a second person push the idler pulley towards the firewall while getting the alternator out. Also I installed the top two alternator bolts last, after getting the new belt on as other posters have suggested. The belt may go on with the idler pulley all the way to the firewall but this method is easier. Also the Denso remanufactured alternator luckily fit right in to the bottom bolt hole without modification. Be sure to check whether you have VCM or not. Thank you!

Best odyssey alternator replacement video! Had hard time time to move it out. After watching yours, it took me 10 minutes to yank that thing out in the exactly same way. Thanks a lot!

Very nice video. Followed your video changed my Alternator with no problem and works. Thank you, You are the best.

Watched this once and finished my replacement in less than 3 hours. Taking out the power steering reservoir was key (and messy because is wasn’t paying attention) and I also removed both bolts holding the A/C line (one further back towards the dash). It gave that much more play.

Thank you , I was able to replace my alternator by following your steps. Much easier then other videos. Thank you again. It does take some manipulating to get it out, but it was fairly easy. The tip about filing the back was exactly what I had to do. Thanks again!

Thanks for actually showing all the steps you took that is very helpful!

Thank you for the video, changed my alternator with your instructions. Saved a boat load of labor costs. Watching this video gave me the confidence to do this myself.

Did not search for another video after watching this for Alternator replacement. I had a failed alternator (smoking from friction) . Found this video. It was very helpful to replace Alternator on my 2007 Odyssey EXL. I did all steps mentioned in the video, plus I had to remove the tensioner to get the Alternator out. AC lines were in the middle and I didn't want to move it too much. Once I removed the tensioner everything went smooth except mounting the tensioner back-in and placing the serpentine back on. I removed the top bolt bracket before removing the alternator. I bought a remanufactured Denso with VCM (Engine cover said VCM) alternator which is OEM. It fitted nicely , no machining or hamerring needed. I got all done in same day with several breaks. Most of the time I spent was on tensioner because I did all from top of the engine/hood. Did not raise the car at all. I did not get a good position with breaker bar to place the belt back on, I ended up using Rachet (decided to sacrifice it if it breaks). This video gave me courage to do this work and made my work easy. Steering fluid did spill a little when removing the reservoir. If steering flush is due - this is the right time to combine task.

Great video!! A couple things that happened to me and how i did my 2010 EX. I had to remove the front passenger tire to access the lower tensioner. I also had to disconnect ac lines, disconnect and remove the power steering resevoir, disconnect the washer fluid resevoir, remove weather flashing. Also, get the tensioner lever positioned as forward towards the radiator as possible and push towards the windshield to release pressure when removing and reinstalling the altenator. 19mm on the tensioner, 13mm on the ground wire. Pain in the butt. But its done and im rolling again.

Glad I found your video after looking at others! About 45 minutes out, about 30 minutes back in on my son's van.

Very helpful. The job was still a complete pain in the ass, but the video definitely helped. Very appreciative. Good content. 👌🏼🙏🏼

Thank You we replaced my alternator with this video! You made it so easy step by step. Hardest part was pulling the part out the hole.

So helpful! This video was all I needed to get the job done. Thank you!

Thank you for your video, I changed the alternator on our 2010 odyssey. It took me several hours . but I got it done !

Thank you so much. My car alternator failed at morning and around 3 pm I finished the car. Very helpful.

Not my first time changing the alternator on this vehicle. Lasted 3 years and went out. Warranty replacement on the way. The last time I tackled this job it left me swearing and frustrated. Thanks for the video! Came out easy this time.

You’re my freaking hero!! Thank you for this video!!

Thank you so much This video helped me a lot. Appreciate 😊

Good detail and explanation 👍🏾

Excellent video amigo!

Gotta tackle this weekend, thanks for the low down on it..

Great great vid sir, thank you!

Very Good Video!!!! 👍

Very helpful video. Still took forever to get that sucker out.

Thanks for the info. I’m about to do one.

What's the torque value you used? I'm preparing to change my alternator out after the spool valve leaked oil on it causing total failure.

Very good video 👍🏻🙏

Thanks for the great video saved a ton of time over removing all the unnecessary parts that all the other videos I had seen. This saved so much time plus didn't have to get on the ground at all

Well done!

Great video, thanks

Followed your video. Worked out great thanks! Now where did this extra bolt come from?

Good video Brother

Nice job

After 3 Honda alternators, I also learned one of the causes for my van was the oil filter gasket which was throwing oil up into the alternator and frying it... would suggest ruling that out before just changing an alternator.

hi, i dont know if you can answer this, but does the honda odyssey 2009 alternator compatible to a honda odyssey 2007? i have a honda odyssey 2007 and found a 2009 alternator but dont know if it compatible...

gracias, you did it the right way.

Thanks you are awesome!!!

Wish me luck boys, I’m going in.

really helpful video! Pay attention when he says make sure the bottom bracket is the same width! you dont want to get it in and find it wont fit.........believe me. Just get the grinder out and shave it down a touch before you even try.

what were the engineers thinking when they put it there.

Thanks man

thank you!

So I've done a few mechanical things like rebuild motors replace motors transmissions differentials turbos... But on my 2010, the alternator set up is different. The alternator is not coming out. The metal corner of the AC tube is bent such that it's trapped. There's an additional electrical line attached to the back of the alternator which is a support going to the AC compressor. In addition there is this plastic hard cover that holds the lines in place and is like a straitjacket trying to get it off. The electrical plug of course was practically melted into the alternator which I didn't know. This is not going as planned.

Any suggestions to the bottom bolt , getting it in easier ?

Thanks So Much! My expenses really caught up with and I needed to learn how to make this happen sooner than later from saving money to visit the mechanic. You really helped me out a lot. My kids enjoyed working with me. Please ask your wife to give up a kiss for me, ya'll have fun with that.

Thanks

Nice editing... You should've included the struggle. I've done about 5 of these and it's a bitch to sneak that alternator out no matter which way you turn it or what you take loose. Removing the tensioner completely helps a little bit though.

Thank you I did it by miself

I've done 4 alternator replacements on 2005-2010 honda odysseys, and the AC line always gets in the way for me.

The bottom when putting it back? The same size, just won't slide back help!

I hope battery was an AGM due to all the electronics in vehicle.

honestly the front plastic was necessary for me to remove the connections on the alternator

What’s a 10mm?

Awesome video the local mechanic said $800

Set me up for failure with an 07. Completely different connectors

Could get the bottom bolt off. Used wd-40 and nothing. Didn’t budge.

Shop charge $600 for labor 😅

i swear it wouldve been faster and easyer if you took the front top clup off but okay mission accomplished

Bruh u got to show us which bolt u put the belt tension tool on SMH, it's the details ur missing dude

🇳🇮🇳🇮🇳🇮❤️

Into the abyss 😫😫😫

This actually shows me how much lazy people are 😂😂😂😂

I will make this suggestion for anyone doing this. On the bottom of the alternator where that large bolt goes through there are 2 bushings, one in each half of the housing. On my replacement alternator the ends of those two bushings were farther apart than on the alternator that came out. As a result it was impossible to get the new one in as the old one was a snug fit when I removed it. Before fighting that new one down into that tight space you should take a caliper and verify that the new one is not wider than the old. In my case I took a large clamp and two sturdy metal plates and pressed the two bushings towards each other, I even tapped the clamp with a hammer while under pressure to increase the chances that the bushings would move in the housing. I ended up needing to do this twice before I got what I considered a satisfactory measurement. When I put the new alternator back in it slid into place fairly easily.