That's what I stress to so many guys. It's a shame that the first thing a lot of guys do is to throw away the factory carb, put on the "ching ping" and then there is NO option when it doesn't run right or if you're really lucky the factory carb is still available, ( for $500+ ) and you replace it. Glad to hear about your positive experience and glad my video helped. We will be putting out more but with parts issues haunting us, we have only been able to really do the same things we have videos for already or VERY advanced stuff that needs a ton a special equipment to do. Thanks for watching! Have a great ride!

I'm glad it helped! The 600 carb is very similar, but it takes a different kit. Thanks for watching!! Good luck with your repairs!

Glad it was helpful!

I appreciate that!

Glad I could help, I have much more content to post but right now the shop is PACKED and by the time I get home I just want to relax.

That sounds like a classic clogged pilot (low speed) jet, it has a tiny hole and many think it doesn't actually have one, trust me, it does and it must have for it to start and idle correctly.

You might not have screwed it up. There is a brass cap near the throat of the carb on the bottom near where it connects to the intake manifold. It should be round and protrudes from the body maybe a half inch or so. That is the pilot mixture screw ( they are capped off from the factory ), if the carb has never been cleaned, or properly cleaned, that factory plug could still be intact. If this is the plug you are talking about just gently drill through it, don't use much force. Once you get a hole all the way through it, use a coarse thread screw to remove the plug, after that, you should see a slotted screw head under it, remove that screw, along with the spring, washer and tiny o-ring. If you don't see the washer and o-ring, use the course thread screw and "screw" it back into the hole just a bit, it should grab the washer and o-ring and you can remove them and clean the port. Good luck! Thanks for watching!

You're very welcome!

Good point!

I am going to video another one very similar to that to show the reassembly process better. P.S. I have a second battery now!

@@JWSRepairServiceLLC did you make the better video? Thanks for this one btw!

Thank you awesome video ,much respect from 🇨🇦

Thank you great explanation in video help us best video by far on carbs thanks again

Glad it helped!

Thanks for watching

Thank you!

Thank you for the nice comments. I will tell you like I tell everybody, if the jets aren't completely clogged, Seafoam "might" work, but if they are completely clogged, nothing is going through them, including the Seafoam. Using Seafoam as a periodic additive is not a bad idea to help maintain a good running machine, but in 35 years, I have never seen a "miracle in a bottle" make a non-running engine run all by itself.

I'm not that familiar with automotive carbs, but I believe that some SU carbs have emulsion tubes as well. It is uncommon as a rule to find them in automotive applications though.

Thank you. We try to be as visible as possible. I would recommend the kit from All Balls Racing, part # is 26-1407, website is www.allballsracing.com. Thanks for watching! Your support is vital to allow us to continue to bring the best DIY content out there.

Thanks for watching! Now, your slide is operated by engine vacuum but is in a "ported" configuration. What does that mean you ask? I'll explain, ported vacuum sources on engines are ones that supply MORE vacuum under acceleration rather than most of the other sources that will basically fall to zero when the butterfly opens. This is achieved on your engine by 2 small holes on the bottom (needle side) of the slide itself, as the butterfly opens, the engine attempts to pull an increasing volume of air into it, as this happens, high speed air rushes past those 2 little holes, drawing out the air above the slide diaphragm and creating an area of low pressure, this lifts the slide and the needle allowing the engine to get both more air and fuel. This system is very efficient and works flawlessly as long as, 1. The diaphragm is intact, it should be soft and flexible with no cracks or tears. 2. The slide is not physically hanging up in the bore of the carb, you should be able to push up the slide and it will return freely all the way to the bottom. 3. There are no vacuum leaks between the carb and the engine, this is usually a cracked or delaminated intake manifold (common on Yamaha) or a bad O-ring behind the manifold $. Lastly, if your engine will not start at all or is very difficult to start even under full choke and/or has a tendency to "run away" or rev very high by itself and then spit and sputter and die or idle very rough, many times with a noticeable back fire, you may have a tight intake valve that is not closing all the way or is closing late due to tight clearance. Check your valve clearances, Intake should be .004 and exhaust should be .006. Check those things and let me know what you find. We'll get your machine running again!

What about the main nozzle in the carb bore? It seems to be able to be replaced in either direction. One side is a square cut, and the other is cupped. The needle goes into the part I am referring to. Am I correct in the assumption that the cupped/parabolic relieved side goes into the bore?

@@albertferrara4139 The rounded end goes towards the emulsifier tube (main jet holder) facing down, the cupped part does go into the bore, otherwise facing up.

Lol i just went thru this pulled the carb like 10 times until i relized this and its almost press fit so you dont even think it should go in you have to have it right inline and pretty much press it in ​@JWSRepairServiceLLC

Need to ask a question first, Was it doing this BEFORE the carb was cleaned? If so, there is a good chance it wasn't a carb issue to start with and more troubleshooting needs to be done. If it wasn't doing this before, there is most likely an issue with the slide in the carb not opening, either at all or only part of the way. This can be because of the slide physically sticking and/or a hole/tear in the rubber diaphragm.

Unfortunately it doesn't work that way. If the carb cannot be submerged (vatted) in a detergent, the air passages that are cast into the body of the carb cannot be cleaned and they are just as critical to proper running as the fuel jets. Thanks for watching!

@@JWSRepairServiceLLC thanks for your honesty

That cap is actually a plug that is covering the mixture screw. It must be carefully drilled through and extracted. I use a 3/16 drill bit and a course thread sheet metal or drywall screw to remove these. You must be gentle though, do not use excessive pressure of the bit while drilling or you will drill through the cap and into the mixture screw beneath it. The kit does come with a new one, but without a slot in the screw if you drill too far, it will be nearly impossible to remove it. Once you get the plug and screw out, spray through the hole where the screw was and make sure you get flow back through the pilot jet and the idle port in the throat of the carb. Take your time and good luck! Thanks for watching!!

@@JWSRepairServiceLLC awesome! I just read on a forum where someone mentioned having to drill it, but thank you so much for the great description on what to do!

@@raptorcustomembroidery3927 No problem, I make these videos to help people get back on the road or off-road, of course we do make our living repairing them as well, so sometimes it may seem that giving out "trade secrets" could be counter-productive, but in many cases by detailing out what it takes to do a particular repair, it actually saves people money by NOT doing it themselves because you might not really have what is required to do it correctly, something gets damaged or broken and it ends up costing tons more money. I need to make a video specifically on removing that plug, however, since we are a service only center and not a dealership we usually only see machines that are a few years old and those plugs are already gone, but I will make sure to video the next one we come across.

It is normal. The castings they use for these carburetors are multi-purpose so to speak. On other makes and models there is a bowl heater that screws into that hole, typically on Hondas.

That's for a heater

We get ours from NAPA, but you must be a commercial customer to buy it. Thanks for watching!!!

It's called ChemiClean but is only available for commercial use. A consumer version would be something along the lines of Berryman Chemtool dip in a can, I believe Gunk makes a similar product as well. Thanks for watching!

Yes, use the screen. It will help prevent small items from sticking the valve open. Thanks for the comment and the support!

Thanks i tried but it actually crushed when i tried to set it in.

About my 4th time with that carb out. Had a bad gas situation. Got it cleaned out and running on choke but would not idle. Thought the pilot jet was the problem. Bought a similar carb kit (kimpex) put it together with your help -thank you very much but still no idle none at all. Pilot screw at 2.5 turns out. It was sonically cleaned and could see three clear streams when blowing carb cleaner through the pilot circut. I am about to throw in the towel and get it serviced. Is there anything I’m missing?

@@kansascityshuffle8526 There are a few things that can cause this, first off, is the idle just set too low? Turn the stop screw in until it just barely opens the throttle blade, start and fine tune the idle to around 1100 rpm +/- 100. Vacuum leaks can also cause a problem, Yamaha has well documented issues with their intake manifolds. You can also back the pilot screw out another full turn if necessary, 2.5 turns is a base setting and we normally have to adjust richer or leaner when we start them up. There are many other issues that can cause this as well, but these would be the most likely for your situation.

@@JWSRepairServiceLLC ok thanks again going to play with the enrichment and idle screw. I guess if it’s a manifold them I won’t feel so bad.

Thank you !

You aren't even the only one, this is a common issue. What we do is, unscrew the nut from the carb, this will give you a small gap behind the plunger, you should be able to see the spring. Spray a penetrating lubricant generously into this gap, let it sit for as long as it takes for the plunger to loosen up and come out. In a worse case scenario, you may just have to break the cable and/or plunger to get them out, which of course would require replacement of those items.

Unfortunately No, It is very similar but 2006-2008 are different, sorry for the delay, I was building engines today.

I have an 06 and it’s the same carb

We are in Texas, Thanks for watching!

May I ask what would a person have to pay for carb rebuild for a grizzly 660 if I ordered parts and sent to u

@@Gokywildcats11 Our rebuild charge is $175 + freight both ways of course, but I will provide a video of your carb being rebuilt.

PLEASE rebuild!, The 'el cheapo ching ping knockoff's you see online "say" they fit everything, however, 99% of the time, while they may "fit" they don't work. Throttle linkages/cables won't attach, jets are wrong and even if it all appears to be the same, the machine just won't run right. We take-off the 'el cheapo's and rebuild the factory carbs all the time because of these reasons. Sometimes the customer has thrown away the factory carb and there isn't much we can do, IF you can get the factory carb they run anywhere form $300-$600! Thanks for watching!

I hear you, Yamaha isn't the only one that puts the pilot screw in the middle on the bottom. A 90 degree driver certainly helps.

Thank you for your comment. I am also glad that you brought up this topic. It is indeed a fact that cheap, Chinese reproductions of carburetors are readily available for a wide range of powersports equipment, the main issue with these replacements is that they are "will fit". This means that while they may fit into the intake manifold and air box openings, the internal plumbing and architecture may or may not be compatible with your machines requirements. I have found that most of these "will fit" carbs, require modifications to throttle operation, to me that is a non-starter. Altering throttle mechanisms is a good way to get yourself injured or worse. Some machines will NEVER run right with these reproductions installed, as they just aren't right for the engine. We replace several of these "will fit's" a month with the factory carbs to restore normal running. Feel free to try them, just do NOT toss your factory carb in the trash!, there is a very good chance you will need it. Good luck!

@@JWSRepairServiceLLC Great info. Glad I asked. Do you have a kit recommendation?

@@Makitaization www.allballsracing.com , go to the lookup section and enter your machine info and they can send a kit directly to you.

@@JWSRepairServiceLLC Thanks!