That’s correct. It’s cheap so it’s best to replace it regularly

I can imagine. I had 2008 VW Jetta before and the PCV is built into the valve cover and you need to replace the entire valve cover to replace the PCV. LOL

Yeah, the older the car gets, I think it's a cheap and easy maintenance that's worth doing every 25K miles or so. Definitely using a universal joint will help with removal/installatinon.

My 2006 GS300 PCV came off without too much struggle, but boy 2013 Camry, I felt like I was going to break the PCV. It took a lot force to break it loose. Spray some Blaster's Penetrating Oil liberally, and let's it soak for about 30 minutes, and it should come off. But be sure to cover the surrounding so that you don't over spray other areas around it.

I had this same problem just a minute ago. I was working it for over an hour and it just wouldn't budge but then I sprayed some wd40 on the threads and let it sit for 10 minutes and then it finally budged. My main problem was wrenching clearance with a socket wrench and I ended up getting it off with a regular 19 mm wrench which was small enough to get in those tight spaces. When I finally got it off I checked the threads and sure enough there was a lot of loctite on them. Go figure.

Penetrating oil really works well in this situation. I do believe factory must apply some thread lock on them.

Note to self: Correct Part no: PCV Valve - Lexus (12204-31050)

www.ebay.com/itm/LEXUS-OEM-FACTORY-PCV-VALVE-2008-2016-GS350-12204-31050-/333049255335?_trksid=p2349624.m46890.l49292

Yup, for your 2008 GS350, looks like slightly different part number.

Bro i have the same problem and am going nuts... i drive a toyota crown 3.0 with the same exact engine.

Did you figure it out I’m having the same issue?

Sorry boys, never found the problem or solution

Spark plugs

@@ayo9057 i will do that over the weekend , and see what happens! appreciate you

I think short socket will be too short, and if long socket is too long, they sell mid-size socket that is little longer than short and little shorter than the deep socket and that’ll give you more room. Also, if it’s not loosening easily, try spraying some penetrating oil and let it soak for 10 minutes, and if necessary loosen it with a breaker bar. You just gotta get a quarter turn started and then it should come out easily. Let me know how it goes. If you are in Houston area, you come come by and I can take it out for you.

@@DIYLifeSkills thank you for the generous offer, but I live in a very distant land, where finding things like half-length sockets is a problem. I'll try spraying it though

@@MKTJ03 Amazon and ebay sells semi-deep socket but check the actual length against your's since there is no standard lengths in sockets. WD40 may work, but it doesn't penetrate like penetrating oil which makes it's way through even tiniest cracks. Sometime it may take 30 minutes to penetrate deeply. Let me know how it goes.

@@DIYLifeSkills, hi! I used the full length socket and pushed the abs lines into the firewall. Managed to get it out and tested it by blowing from both sides. My abused 2grfse has over 160k miles on it and the valve worked fine when i checked it. I'm running an oil can with it, which collects about 0.25 L of oil within my 5kkm oil change intervals, while the total oil consumption is about 1 L per change. I have an oval 5th cyl with blowby.

@@MKTJ03 Nice!!! I thought about catch can but not sure where to install it yet.

The smoke is released to exhaust when oil is burning in the engine. There could be many reasons such as worn piston ring, worn valves, leaky internal gasket, etc., but these are major repair and sometime not worth doing depending on the cost of the repair and remaining value of the car. However, there are other frequent cases that can be simple to fix such as stuck PCV will cause oil burning. Also, bad air-fuel mixture ratio will cause not optimal combustion and can cause smoke. If you haven't definitely change PCV, this is like 10 minutes super easy job on this car. Also take maximum 1 hour, likely 30 minutes, and clean the Mass Air Flow sensor, and Intake Throttle Body. These are super easy DIY on this car that might fix our smoke issue.

Also, on my old VW Jetta, it was burning one quart of oil every 2000 miles despite doing above maintenance, and I tried this valve seal, and while it didn't stop it completely, it reduced it by 50% or more. www.amazon.com/Bars-Leaks-OS-1-Engine-Burning/dp/B0764H6K45/ref=asc_df_B0764H6K45/?tag=hyprod-20&linkCode=df0&hvadid=343925532946&hvpos=&hvnetw=g&hvrand=13120173460236145852&hvpone=&hvptwo=&hvqmt=&hvdev=c&hvdvcmdl=&hvlocint=&hvlocphy=9027782&hvtargid=pla-726295392620&psc=1&tag=&ref=&adgrpid=71871594160&hvpone=&hvptwo=&hvadid=343925532946&hvpos=&hvnetw=g&hvrand=13120173460236145852&hvqmt=&hvdev=c&hvdvcmdl=&hvlocint=&hvlocphy=9027782&hvtargid=pla-726295392620

@@DIYLifeSkills but my case is kinda complicated sometime I get the smoke sometime not !! That’s what makes me think if something is really bad it should happen every single time I turn on the car ! I did change the valve cover gasket and the spark plugs and the coils and the spark plugs tube and the plenum gasket as well, so my next service would be the PCV and maybe the valve guides and the things you mentioned will check it out as well , thanks anyway for your reply

@@costantineyoussif6679 What color is the smoke and when do you see it? Take a look at this. www.firestonecompleteautocare.com/blog/maintenance/what-is-my-exhaust-color-telling-me/

@@costantineyoussif6679 when you remove the PCV check to see how it rattles compared to the new one. Also you can visually see if it’s heavily fouled with oil and grime. When PCV is struck it creates a lot pressure inside the crankcase and burn oil and it’ll eventually cause gaskets to fail and cause oil leak.

PCV removes high pressure from crankcase so engine doesn't blow up or have or leak through gaskets due to high pressure. So PCV is necessary. However, in the process, PCV also routes some oil fumes out of the crankcase and back to the intake valves and dirties it up. So you could install a oil catch can in the PCV hose line to remove the oil, but that's a regular hassle to empty the oil, and if you leave in a cold area, this oil/water could freeze. So there is no good answer either way.

My old PCV was actually in good shape so I didn’t notice any big change, but those with clogged PCV should see immediate improvement in oil consumption. This is so cheap and easy maintenance that you just do it regularly like every 30-50K miles to avoid more costly damage and repair later.

Sorry I don’t too many KZfaq messages so I just saw. I couldn’t find and torque specification. So I just tightened it snuggly just so that there is no air leak. Don’t over tighten it.

27Nm

Only if the hose is showing hairline cracks, particularly near connecting ends. Otherwise, PCV hose is not under a lot of pressure and only hot air travels through, so it can lay a long time. That’s said, if the car is near or over 200k miles. It’s probably good to change it since it’s cheap.

Brief white smoke at start is normal but if it’s spewing white smoke after it’s fully warmed up to the operating temperature, then you could have a leak in head gasket and coolant is leaking into the combustion chamber. Is your coolant level going down slowly with no visible leak anywhere? If so, that’s a high probably of head gasket starting to fail.

I didn't measure it accurately, but spot checking my oil level shows, it's burning perhaps less than a quart between 5K mile oil changes. I'm doing it mainly for proper maintenance to avoid big problem later.