UPDATE PLEASE READ!!: please watch my later video first before watching this one • 2006-2016 Yamaha R6 Ev... I was unsure on some things on this video and also please read this description. I wanted to be clear, the cam chain tensioner fixed my cam chain rattle for a few seconds on startup. If your 06+ R6 does this, replace with a new cam chain tensioner, there is an updated yamaha oem part for it that has a better design, I would not install a manual CCT because the OEM one has an oil port in it which it builds oil pressure on the CCT spring so as the bike revs more your CC tightens a bit which I believe Yamaha designed the bike around as far as the timing and allows it to cycle the valves perfectly and run at higher RPMs the way it was designed and have more(normal) HP. I think if you install a manual CCT you will loose a bit of HP up top because it cannot adjust as the CT builds speed. If you do replace it be very very careful that your cam chain does not jump a tooth of timing when you pull out the CCT and install the new one, I have had this happen to me and I had to go in and readjust the timing and pull the cams out, it was a pain. If you put tension on the cam chain when you take out the CCT and put in the new one it should hold the CC in place. If your bike is dying when it is cold and shutting off when you come to a stop, YOU NEED A VALVE ADJUSTMENT. 2006 Yamaha R6 Valve Adjustment Tips/Advice. I replaced the CCT which fixed the rattle on startup from the CCT. And adjusted the valves in this video and fixed the cold engine dying problem (engine would have trouble staying on until 160 degrees if revved or ridden) I road the bike last when it was about 85 degrees outside then road it after the valve adjustment when it was 100 degrees outside. Along with the valve adjustment I cleaned the air filter, gapped the spark plugs, adjusted the idle screws on the throttle bodies and replaced the cam chain tensioner. Looking back you do NOT need to adjust your idle set screws on each cylinder on the throttle bodies, you really only need to do this if you mess with the throttle bodies themselves, they come preset where they need to be and should not have to be redone. After everything I did to the bike I did not feel a noticeable gain in power whatsoever, but did feel some power gain and the bike did run and idle smoother than before. But this could be accounted to the others things I did while doing the valve adjustment. I would not expect to gain horsepower from doing a valve adjustment, however if you do a valve adjustment on your bike on time and when the bike needs it, you can expect to have a longer lasting engine that keeps it's power with higher miles. If you neglect to adjust your valves over time the valves will wear out quicker and can eventually break due to improper or out of spec gap between the cam and upper cap of each valve spring. It is essential that you find and download a service manual, use a torque wrench to torque bolts down to the specified tightness, remove/re-install bolts in the specified order (specifically the ones holding down each cam), go slow, take pictures and mark on the cam shaft and cams and gears wear everything was before etc, and follow the service manual carefully.