A few others mentioned that as well. Whatever works is my motto! This of course is the method outlined in the FSM though.

You're absolutely right, I did exactly that and it worked

I just tried that in salty New Hampshire, and I can tell you that it didn't work for me. My 2013 (at least on the right side) has the nut on the front and bolts from the rear, so I don't have to move the shock, just unbolt the trailing arm.

Thanks for the 14mm offset box wrench tip. My daughter has on of these, and it went pretty well.

Great to hear man! Appreciate the comment!

I appreciate the comment 🙏

🤣🤣 flip flops are must for wrenching

Appreciate the comment! And yess heat always helps persuade 😆

I appreciate it 🙏

Good luck with the job 🤙

@@TheOriginalBeeCee thank you

Thank you for the comment!🙏

Nice, good info!

Appreciate it!

And then after posting I go to the comments and find others saying the same thing.. 😂

No doubt whatever works 👍

Appreciate it man!

Im glad it helped. Thanks for the comment!

Thank you! I appreciate it 🙏

🙏🙏🙏

Brandon The H. I definitely appreciate that man 🙏

I appreciate the comment. The brakes really only need to be bleed if you have dark/old fluid. Just check it over make sure it looks good. Easiest time to bleed them is when you’re already in there working.

Glad it helped! 🙏 but those rotors have probably been replaced before, that’s probably why they’re missing. Some leave them out intentionally after initial removal. But they aren’t necessary. Their only real purpose is to keep the rotor on while the car is being built at the factory so they don’t flex and fall off.

Yeah his was backwards

I appreciate the comment 🙏 but a seized caliper is a caliper that has a frozen piston. So the caliper wouldn’t be working...which in turn your braking probably wouldn’t be 100 percent, and definitely a chance the rotors would be showing signs as well. If you are able to retract both rear caliper pistons fairly easily while doing a brake pad change, then the calipers aren’t seized. If you’ve done two pad changes already @ 55K i would doubt the caliper is seized...but I would suggest removing the calipers and see if you can freely retract it with a pad separator or C-Clamp. I would say give that a shot, and if you can’t get it to budge then we could go over some ideas to free up a seized caliper. And if you aren’t already, I would say invest in some nice ceramic pads to increase your chances of pad longevity. Let me know!

Whatever works!

No.

Whats up man, I appreciate the note. I believe someone else mentioned that as well. I’ll edit the title to reflect 2WD 👍

I think someone mentioned its not designed like this, its a regular brake setup.

Yea you can, would be best to source the swap from a junker. Would need knuckles/spindles/brake components and probably ebrake cable as well. I rear disc conversion’d my ‘99 Altima back in the day

Josh Lapoint hey whats up man. Definitely not a spark plug problem, sounds like you have something much bigger going on. Almost sounds like possible CVT issue.

No, you don't have to do all of this for the front. The front is a normal brake/caliper setup.

It is not threaded. Some manufacturers/rotors have threaded holes pre-drilled in them from factory for rotor removal, these aren’t one of them. I reviewed removing the rotor @6:00. Really no reason a deadblow/hammer shouldn’t break it free with some solid whacks. If you really felt the need, you could heat it up with a propane torch in the center around the studs…as this is where the rotor rust-welds itself to the hub, then give it some solid deadblow whacks. That should 110% free it up. Just make sure parking-brake is not engaged.

From what some others have said, the 4wd is supposedly setup normally, and not like this.

I believe it was a PH2 IIRC.

Carmen hello, just for reference, this isn’t my vehicle. However, when I did the job, the customer brought the parts, and the original rotors he purchased were too small. He had to go exchange them for the bigger ones. I don’t know what the specifics were, but I thought it was just a matter of it being FWD or AWD.

This is something that is kind of hard to troubleshoot or give direct insight over the internet on, as it would be much easier to give a suggestion by seeing it, and actually seeing how bad it's stripped. That being said...there are a few things I can suggest to maybe steer you in the right direction. First off, they make bolt extractor sockets, you can find them at Harbor Freight for example. That would probably be the best course of action in my opinion. I'm a big fan of heat as well, I think if you induced a bit a heat from a small propane torch and use an extractor socket, you would probably get it off with minimal effort. But some other methods you could try would be maybe using a standard socket instead of metric, sometimes this will work to help offset the size loss from it being stripped. If it was stripped with a 6 point socket, you could try a 12-point socket to potentially help get it back on the head of the bolt to give it that grab you need. Sometimes you might have to sacrifice a socket and hammer it on to the head when utilizing one of these methods. And if all else fails, you could always take an acetylene torch to it glow it up red and it would probably fire right out as long as you can get some socket or wrench on the head of the bolt.

?

Can you send a link to the tool? I really would like to see what it looks like. Thanks for the idea!

Waste of money perhaps genius?

just for reference, this isn’t my vehicle. However, when I did the job, the customer brought the parts, and the original rotors he purchased were too small. He had to go exchange them for the bigger ones. I don’t know what the specifics were, but I thought it was just a matter of it being FWD or AWD.

I believe it was a #2

@@TheOriginalBeeCee Thanks!

Its very easy. Push it out from the front with a flat head. Install is just reverse, push it up from the back of the rotor with your hand/finger and it should pop right thru

@@TheOriginalBeeCee just did rear brake job on my Tucson 2013 AWD. I hope i did it right. What I didn't do was open the reservoir when i reset the piston. Is it necessary?

@@hybridramper-futurearmy1160 naa it definitely not. In fact, most FSMs, like Haynes and even KIAs FSM’s suggest just siphoning fluid out of the MC before retracting piston. And that’s simply so it doesn’t over flow out when it’s being retracted. Something I’ve been doing is after I do a corner, I’ll just go press the pedal and build up the pressure again to get that fluid back down after each one.

I answered this is another comment...but I would agree its best practice, but its not always accessible to do especially from the ground, and you can definitely get away without doing it. As long as everything is back together and your are torquing while everything is in orientation (I.E.: not torquing one bolt with the control arm hanging off), you should be fine.

You don’t have to put the wheel on so it should be accessible from the ground. Just put Jack stand under control arm then lower the vehicle till the Jack is not supporting the car. You’re putting twice the stress on the bushing by not setting them for ride height.

@@starter_hart79 TBH, when i first started wrenching many years ago I was obsessed with torquing everything to spec and ensuring everything was done EXACTLY to the FSM methods/specifications. I’ve contorted myself under cars many times with the wheel on the ground to torque bolts while it was was pre-loaded, put a jack under the tire (while it was supported on stands) to create a pre-load, and supported the control arm with both a jack or jack stand as you mentioned, to create that load. Done it all. But IMO, I’ve come to realize most of the time it doesn’t matter as long as everything is back in its original orientation. Back in those days when I was overly obsessed, my next door neighbor was a 20+ year master mechanic, and he use to stop over from time to time when I was out in the garage and give me shit just for trying so hard and caring so much about it being done exactly to specification. I also have a couple good friends that are way more experienced mechanics than me with the supporting certifications to match, and to this day will still laugh at me for going so out of my way to even obtain torque specs and torque bolts to spec, let a lone pre-load the suspension. But as you can see, I’m still a fan of my torque specs. If you really familiarize yourself with the automotive industry you’ll come to realize most shops and dealers tighten everything just hanging on the lift, not pre-loaded, hell...most of the time probably not even torquing anything to spec. Few ugga-duggas while hanging in the air...drop it, and the customer is on their way. Like I said definitely best practice, but as long as everything is assembled back in orientation, from my experiences it really doesn’t matter. And just to dig a little deeper, my first project car I turned literally almost every bolt on....I torqued components/bolts both under load and not, and the floor pan rusted out before any OEM bushing gave out. Never noticed a difference in feel either, doing it both ways. So overall, I’m certainly not opposed to it being done under load, as that is the best practice and what every book would tell you to do, but can you can most definitely do it successfully without causing any detrimental stress to the bushings when not pre-loading.

@@starter_hart79 I found this helpful to know as well. Thanks!

Unfortunately this isn’t my vehicle, and you cant send messages on KZfaq lol. So i would have no way too. Its pretty simple though you can almost see where I did in the video

Best practice, but you can get away without doing it

Why are we aligning the front end when working on the rear? Lol

@@TheOriginalBeeCee good point. Rear alignment and front alignment. Point is takind it apart the way you did probably calls for a new alignment assuming you did both rear brakes

@@pixelpadre lol. But yes, anytime a suspension component is dis-assembled, replaced, etc, it is best practice to have the vehicles alignment checked over. Something I did intend to note in the video, but forgot.

Someone else mentioned this as well. I’m all for whatever works! This is the “by the book” method outlined with torque specs. I tested a variety of wrenches when doing this job, nothing fit. Dont have a spanner set. Only spanners I own came with aftermarket Coilovers for perch adjustment. I would be interested in trying it though if I do one of these dumb Kia/Hyundai designs again.

Slide pins = @18:30 Bleeder screw = I’m not opposed, although personally....I’ve never done that on countless brake jobs on both personal and customer vehicles, with 0 issues. You do have to be careful with a full MC reservoir and totally used pads (when changing pads), that you don't compress the calipers and overflow the reservoir, as of course it can start spewing out of the MC. When you compress the piston, the pressure causes fluid to flow through the system and ends up filling the brake fluid reservoir. The ABS system is just really just an electrical controlled pump. Its not like the system is being electrically activated "on" and you have opposite pressures fighting each other. In reality, if the fluid is being maintained as it should be...it is not necessary....and I......including many other mechanics and DIY’ers, do not open the bleed screw when compressing caliper pistons. You can find a ton of mixed opinions on this from a quick search supporting either theory. But IMO, I think the idea of debris getting pushed back into the ABS unit and causing problems is a little exaggerated. Could it happen? I mean with cars, really anything is possible. But the real solution is to just bleed the brakes ocassionally. For a pad job I don't think I've ever noticed anyone open a bleeder to compress pistons. It's not mentioned in any factory service manual that I've seen....including the one for this vehicle, nor any Haynes manual. In fact, usually they tell you to siphon brake fluid from the master cylinder in case of a high fluid level in the MC, to prevent overflowing as I mentioned. But like I said, I’m not opposed. If it makes you feel better, go for it. But best practice would be to bleed/flush the brakes at pad change anyway. But that's another thing that usually gets under-minded. But if the fluid is being maintained or bled, as it was in this particular vehicle...as it should be...then this shouldn’t be a concern. Loctite = not necessary. Again, if it makes you feel better go for it. But if you are torquing the bolts to spec as they should be, this really shouldn’t be an issue on any normal commuter car. In fact, most caliper bolts from the factory don’t have any type of loctite or additive. Off the top of my head I can recall a few select American vehicles that had a small amount on a couple threads.

😂

I wondered if there was enough room to clear the bolt with a through ratchet type. Not that removing two bolts would be a big deal but not having to mess with parts unnecessarily in the rust belt is always a good idea...impacts have their own place and if you're doing this day in day out you're saving your body from wear and tear.

Now I think about it, if the bolts are being very difficult you may have to remove the swing arm.