I'm going to have to do this to my 2010 raptor.

Gracias

When doing blend doors on crown Vics and town cars we would loosen that back bolt a 1/4 turn. After removing/prying the old one out of course. Then cut a slot in the screw hole on the actuator. Then drop/slide the new one in to the rear, and tighten down the easy bolt.

Great video! Thank you!

Took a whole weekend but I got it thanks to you tutorial. You're the best

Could not have done this without your time, efforts and knowledge. Thank you sir.

Knoeledge..knowledge....thanks for passing it along.

Thanks again, your a life saver.

Thanks SO, SO, SO much for your video. It was the only one that has the detail needed to get this done. I have a 2012 F150 Lariat with center console (rear air). This just saved me $1000 and makes it easier to swap it out if it goes bad again. Plus I now have the confidence to rip apart my truck under-dash with speed! To help pay it forward, I'm going to try to give everyone the details of my experience. I ordered the Motorcraft YH1933 motor suggested and its the right one for my truck. I spent about 8 hours doing this process a week ago and discovered I couldnt get the old motor out without cutting and didnt want to take the chance with a hacksaw that I had. I also knew the power connector would be unreachable with anything I had on hand. Sadly, put it all back together and prepared to take it to a shop perhaps (NOO!). Then I thought: if I just had the right tools for those two steps and my new experience (saving much time next time) I could probably get it done now. The extra stuff I bought (at Harbor Freight ) to make this work out was an oscillating tool (plastic removal) Item #63113, set of 4 pry bars Item #1654, a some curved locking pliers item#65711. Got them all for $42 after various coupons (and another free tape measure!). Also, use an air ratchet on the seat bolts if you have one and a drill with socket connector for the 7mm screws where possible (will need a long, thin extension on some). This will not only save you time, but energy you WILL NEED for the motor removal. I like to play it somewhat safe so motor removal itself took several hours just so I could be sure I wouldnt crack anything or break the wiring. Things I had already on hand: Pry tools for trim. 15mm (seats) and 7mm (all else) sockets. Socket wrench extensions. Shallow socket wrench: Already had one or would have bought this too (someone recommended one). This was great to have sometimes, but the open/closed end 7mm wrench worked too and was also sometimes necessary. Of course, air ratchet, lights, drill with socket attachment, screwdrivers. Here is a detailed procedure while its still fresh in my mind. Credits to advice given by various people here (thank you all!): 1. Unbolt the 4 bolts on both front seats, slide seats back as far as cables go, dont have to disconnect them, just move them back out of the way. 2. Remove small grommet on carpet found under seats holding rug down (optional but makes things easier to remove the under carpet vent). 3. Remove covers on either side of console. On the sides of console, remove a screw front and back on each side (black front, back silver). 4. Pop the top cover off the shifter area (move shifter to N or D to get this out) and remove the shifter as explained in video (4 screws, 1 power, 1 cable that pops off of pin and plastic that slides up). 5. Remove the two screws holding console to dash, remove two power cables on passenger footwell area, then slide console back and remove. 6. Remove center metal silver support bracket that was just revealed by removing console (4 screws). 7. Detach two power cables attached to small center duct and remove center duct by just pulling/wiggling. 8. Remove door sill plates then peel back the carpet and lay it on the seats. Someone said they had to cut the carpet but I see no reason to if you removed the metal silver support. You can now see the under seat air ducts. 9. Remove 1 plastic anchor on each side of under carpet duct, lift entire duct up and slide towards the back seat to remove (a little at a time on each side helps make it easier). 10. Remove both metal side dash supports for easy access to area around the motor/vents. 11. Remove all silver screws you can see holding lower section. There were about 3 on the drivers side, 1 on the passenger side (tower). Also, one more for the motor itself later. 12. Remove the plastic tower blocking removal of the motor (use an oscillating tool for easy work here). You can glue it back or just leave it out and support the plastic ducts later with some rubber/cloth/closed cell foam. 13. Pry out the motor area from both sides with lots of large pry bars. Pry down on motor (for forever it seems) until the unreachable screw mount snaps. This took a while and I thought it would never snap but it will! 14. Wiggle the motor most of the way out (drive gear should just come out of area, this takes a while too) then reach back with picks/hemostat to unlock/disconnect power connector as this is as far as it will go safely. Remember, there is a locking slide AND a locking lever on the power connector you have to press as you push it off motor. I broke the locking slide off, no loss there. Pushing the lever in while removing is hard to do since the lever is on the bottom of that dang connector. Remove motor the rest of way once the cable is disconnected. 15. Now remove that dang screw on the broken part of the motor mount. 16. Mark where old motor front spline is, compare to new motor position, remove old motor spline from case and use as a tool to align the vent door. 17. Now just wiggle in your new motor and use the curved locking pliers (hemostat) to hold/push power connector in until it clicks. Should line right up if you did the previous step right. 18-??. Install motor and test it a little to be sure its fixed. The put in screws and reverse all the above, pull fuse 46, etc... Good Luck!

Thanks for the video. I Figured that way would be the best way then to pull all apart. But this was definitely useful, got one coming in this week should be fun.

it works

You’re definitely a real mechanic Thank you , 😮you’ve proven to me I will take mine to you . Where you AT ? 😎😂

Thank you for your videos they are very informative. I just fixed my 2010 expedition with the same problem today.

Again you have saved me a ton of money fixing my own truck thank you for all the awesome videos you do

Thank you so much! awesome video, really helped me get the job fixed on my 2011 f-150 without taking the whole dash out!

Thanks for the very nice stuff.

Mine had heated and cooled seats.. so there was a extra vent down there going under the carpet to under my seats . I had to remove my seats and pull carpet back to remove those vents before I could pry the vent box out .. that was the biggest pain in the ass.. I'd say it took me about 4 hours and lots of cuss words to get to the actuator. Had to pull and break one connection point on the rear passenger side of the back of the box but when everything was put back together it was still solid and secure.

Thanks for sharing this video.. I'm a GM technician so I don't see a lot of Ford vehicles but I used this on my buddy's wife's expedition and was able to repair it and saved hours and hundreds of dollars. Thanks again!!!

This one saved me a bunch. Between this one and the other one you posted it walked me through the whole thing. You're awesome sir. Thanks 👍

Hey thanks a lot for the video. Got the job done today a little over 3hrs and I couldn't have done it with out this video. Kudos!!

Excellent. Excellent.

Thank you for the video. Replaced the drivers side motor on 2008 Expedition EB. Helped to get a set of pry bars from Harbor Freight to remove the last piece of duct from under the actuator. Now I have heat before winter sets in!

God bless you sir. your channel has helped me repair so many ford issues. im a toyota repair guy so im so glad your channel is here

I just did my 2012 expedition and this video helped a lot. Took 4 hours. The procedure is very similar for Expedition, but I did have to break the plastic tab that sticks down right by the actuator. Getting the new actuator in was the most challenging part. Thank you for this helpful video, you have saved several people hundreds of dollars.

Thanks for the video! I just replaced mine this weekend on my 2012 F150 Platinum, and it took me about 4 hours. What a pain (especially the electrical connector), but it was better than pulling the entire dash!

Happen to have a video for the actuator controlling the air flow location?

Just did same job on my 2013 Expedition and want to say thank you so much for this video it helps me a lot! And I even was able to put both bolts back on. Thank you again!

Used this video to remove console on a 2011 Platinum. Easy video to follow. Thank you. :-)

THANK YOU! I ended up replacing both actuators, and a Blower Motor resister, and it's good to go now. I also had to remove the seats, and pull the carpet back to remove the duct under the seats. With small sharp flathead screwdriver, I was able to snap the eyelet off the back side where you can't get to the screw, by pressing against it, giving it a few light hammer blows and letting the screwdriver cut through the support.. I ended up sawing off the top of the old actuator nub, and then breaking all the clips around the sides of the actuator and prying it open a bit, to allow the connector to slide right off the back, with a little light wiggling. I also ended up sawing the one long support coming down from the box that blocks the actuator, but not completely through; I used a jigsaw blade to go mostly through, flush with the top, and then left the back side along the top in back connected. That allowed me to leave it partially connected, and move it out of the way. Once the actuator was out, I looked at the new one to see how it lined up, then in inserted the sawed off piece to position the hole just right (don't push it too far up though, it could get stuck in there. The crazy part...to ensure I could get the connector plugged back into the new one, I cut a pair of chopsticks in half, the cheap wood kind that come with your Chinese food, that are still connected at the non-food end. Keep them connected, which allows you to slightly pry open the chopsticks, and slide the two 'poles' on either side of the wiring harness, right up agains the connector housing. The chopsticks pinch it just enough, that you can then grab the end with your fingers from the back, and then maneuver the clip into the back end of the new actuator, once you slide it back in. Once in, some super glue to keep the partially cut long support coming down from the box, a folded piece of cardboard under the duct, to keep it tight - as you can't replace the back screw - button everything back up, good to go.

Thanks for the helpful vids, this one especially. I was able to get both screws out by using a bottle jack in the passenger floor board to hold up on the evap housing. The extra room allowed the lower duct to swing enough to access the screw. Thanks again for the saved time!

Thanks for the video Brother. Worked great on my 2011 F150. I put a dab of super glue on the missed screw. Worked like a charm. Thank you for the alternative method. A few hours, as many beers and a couple trips to the store for tools later and the drivers side is icy cold. Thanks again for posting this, dash removal is beyond my expertise. You saved me a few hundred. I’d buy you a beer if you were in CO.

Just wanted to say I love your videos. they have been a big help. I tackled the drivers side blend door, the bottom hard one, and the only issue I had was lining up the gears. I wanted to pass along how I fixed it. knowing the grear is keyed to that larger open space. when I removed the old one that space was at the 2 o'clock spot. the new one was at the arrow at 12 o'clock. I took apart the old one , marked with sharpe opposite the side of the gear from the large keyed gear. lined it up to 2 o'clock went right in then turned it to 12 o'clock. the new part then inserted like a champ. As you know there is no wiggle room to move the new part to line up the gears. just wanted to pass the hint to others. I now have it working great. Thank you for videos. GC

I was able to get this done today. Great video!

FIrst off let me say that without this video, I would have pulled the entire dash out on my 2012 Ford F150 FX4. I did what the video shows and it saved me hours of time. I have heat blowing on the driver side again. Woohoo. However, DO NOT ATTEMPT THIS WITHOUT READING EVERYONE'S COMMENTS. This is probably the most incomplete video I have found on KZfaq and certainly from this publisher. Tools recommended: 1/4" ratchet, 8mm socket, 8mm combo, straight probe and ideally a curved one or custom bend a small long skinny blade screwdriver (to remove the wire from the actuator). The seats will need lots of torque since the bolts will be rusted, so a 1/2 ratchet/breaker bar and a 19mm socket 1/2" drive (risky with 3/8" drives). First off I never heard the noise demonstrated in the video. Other videos from FordTechMakuloco will show you why you won't. If you have a vent to the rear seat, you have to remove both front seats to get the vent removed. You have to at least pull the carpet back to the front seats - shown but not demonstrated. The video does not demonstrate the crucial part of removing the actuator. That took a couple hours of fiddling. Others explain, but let me say you have to be patient. Take 15 minutes and try pulling the wire out of the defroster/lower heat blend door, found easily on the driver's side of the vent housing. It is exactly the same process found on this actuator. You just have to do it blind. Also, cut the main support arm off as many below suggest. You'll never get the actuator out, much less remove the cord. 2x4 propping the pry bar while removing and ultimately putting the wire back in the new actuator is recommended. Crazy glue or epoxy to glue it back on. Its easier to position the support by starting the screw before gluing it back in place. Shim(s) to go under the vent when you are done, just because that support arm relies on glue Just be patient, go slowly and you will get it. It is worth the time and money saved. Good luck!!

A friend and I tackled this on my 2012 Raptor. Gave up the first time but went back and took out the seats and pulled back the carpet to remove the rear duct work for better access. I'm too big to get under the dash, plus arthritic hands make it worse, but my friend is younger, stronger, smaller, and very patient. It took several hours to unhook the wire, remove and replace the motor, and reconnect the wire, but we got it finally. I briefly removed the fuse as advised and now the AC works fine.

Just finished up doing my drivers side blend door. Thank you so much for the video!! Also a big thanks out to a few people that told about getting the duct work out and removing the seats! The job took me all day... was scared of destroying something. Ended up finally getting done.

I had this same issue but no clicking sound. I removed the front seats, the console, rolled the front carpet back to get at the floor duct. Then I successfully got the bad actuator removed and a new one reinstalled as shown in the video. I did decide to bust off the screw tower in the way of actuator as I didn't see any other way to get it out and back in again otherwise. I propped the assembly up with cardboard after I had installed the new part.Patience is the key for sure, especially when you are trying to connect the plug in the back. I found that if you sort of line up the connector pigtail where you think the female end will end up once you get it in then you can just barely get your finger back there to help line it up. The male end has a stopper behind it so you can just push in on the new actuator and it should click right in. I also had to disassemble the old actuator for the gear that protrudes out to use as a tool so I could line my heater door up with the orientation of the new part. Confused? You'll get it. My heater is working great again for about $40 instead of 12-1500. It took me about 5 hours with down time for beer.

I just wanted to say THANK YOU for doing this video. I was able to fix my 2014 F150 today for 28.00! The dealer wanted 1300.00 plus shop fee and tax to do it.

I replaced my drivers side blend door actuator on my 2010 F150 Lariat last night in my driveway, I was actually pretty quick as I watched the video about a dozen times and decided to go for the "hack" method. the truck has 190,000 km (Ontario Canada) on it and was not spending $1000.00+ on it. breaking the actuator free wasn't too hard, the difficulties I encountered were removing it from its location. I ended up breaking off a support post which was in the way that holds up the lower duct. I used Loctite 454 to glue it back in. It all went together fine and works great. If it wasn't for your videos I wouldn't have tried it. Oh yeah, total time from start to finish was just over 2 hrs. I love my truck my truck again. I replaced it with a Ford one, $51.00, I figured it lasted this long, hopefully it lasts 2 more years as I want the new 2017 F150 engine boost with the 10 speed auto. Keep the videos coming, I tell all my friends about how helpful they are.

Just completed this quite a PITA, but got it done in ~2hrs with lots of rewatching YT videos and saved myself a lot of $$. Heating/cooling works as it should again! Thanks.

Thanks a million for your video, did it today on my 09 Lariat, had to break that support post to get anything to move in or out.Blowing nice cool air so far :) In case you ever come to Edmonton, Alberta, Canada I'd like to buy you a beer or two :) Cheers

Okay, so I wound up replacing both the upper and lower. Symptoms were: clicking noise passenger's side(upper) and no heat or cool on the driver's side(lower). The upper one was easy enough once I removed the radio. The lower one's a different story. I used the hack as outlined in the video for removing the old one by breaking, actually sawing through, the back eyelet. The one thing I didn't quite pickup in the video was your comment on whether you'd be able to get the new lower actuator back in and seated properly, and that really turned into a job. Total time for both actuators was right at 8.5 hours, but I wasn't in a hurry. Really appreciate all your videos, I've used many of them and they're spot on.

Thank you sir! I was experiencing similar issues with no change in temp on driver’s side. I did not have the clicking so I was not 100% certain this actuator was the cause. I had it professionally diagnosed by a local A/C service shop that confirmed the problem but they would not touch it...too big of a job. I called the local Ford Dealer who quoted $1,300 in labor and about $40 for the part. After rewatching your video...I got the part from Amazon last week for less that $30 and took care of the job yesterday in my 2010 Expedition in about 5-6 hours!

Thanks for the video. I did this job on my 2010 F150 King Ranch. My truck has rear air, so I ended up having to take the bolts out of the seats and laying them back. I had to pull up the carpet to be able to back off the duct that goes under the seats. I had to break the ear off the old actuator on the screw that faces the drivers side. I also, like many others, had to cut the passenger side pillar that blocks the removal of the actuator. There is not much room to line up the splines for assembly of the actuator. The new actuator was clocked at 12, so I took the old one apart to use the gear to clock the damper at 12 o'clock, in order to mount the new actuator. The whole job took 3.5 hours.

Thanks dude! Your video plus all the comments helped me sail right through this complex task. However when I pulled back the carpet I discovered my ac drain was leaking into the cab on my 2009 F150. I don't see even the stub of a hose on the outside?

Thank you, just changed the lower actuator on my wifes 2011 expedition.

Looks like I'm going to have to try this your way, only cold air on the driverside of my 2010 Lariat...I'm not paying the dealer to do it, thanks, for the video!!

Thank-you for this video I successfully changed my driver blend door following your example but story might be helpful to others. My drivers side blend door actuator faulted and stuck in cold position. I heard no clicking noise at all.. I changed it as per this video being mindful not to operate it while not installed into the door the new motorcraft actuator went from cold to hot and would not adjust. I moved the blend door with an Allen wrench just to verify that it wasn't stuck. Thinking this might have been a faulty part I installed another new actuator it also ran to the hot side during calibration and stayed there. After some research I decided to purchase a new controller (the knobs and buttons in the dash) this fixed my problem and is working great. In conclusion I believe the original actuator faulted and shorted something in my controller the actuator was $40 and the controler was $420. I saved about $1300 in labor thanks to this informative video.

I just finished the install. It went exactly as show and explained in the video except no matter how much I pried on the duct work, I couldn't get the old one out, so like others, I cut off the bracket in front. Since I couldn't get the second screw in either, I wedged the duct work with cardboard to help keep it in place. Great install hack, glad I tried it. Took me about 2.5 hours. THANKS.

Great video you are my go to for all my Ford repairs! Thank You I have a late 2014 F 150 12/14 production my blend door was mounted by the throttle assembly.

Great video! I just tackled this beast today.. It took me two days, but that was due to my schedule.. It was probably a total of 7-8 hours, with at least 5.5-6 of that yesterday getting to the piece, removing it & placing the new one in. Today was putting it all back together.. Let me just say, it was a beast of a job. I have a 2012 lariat with flow through floor vents to the rear. There is much more duct work involved with that than seen here. I could see how the full dash removal would be the better option, but I was already knuckles deep before I realized it & wasn't looking to change my game plan. I completely removed one mounting bracket for the lower duct work, it was directly in front of the actuator & no other way to remove it. Replaced the part, and ducts were very secure minus the one screw. Honestly, I don't think I ever want to do it again & if it's an option, I'd trade it on something else lol. I do love my truck & like most, had a hard time spending 800-1200 for a $30 part.

Worked for sure a little bit of a pain but it worked and that's what matters 2010 F-150 FX4

I ended up doing it like you did, breaking the little ear after after spending a lot of time making the effort to get it without damaging it. I was successful with the top so I had hope but it disappeared and I got desperate. It’s working fine now a I am wishing I would of started with cutting that ear off with my Dremel Tool (day late dollar short). Hours would had been minutes. That’s a lot of money saved. Thanks for the help!

Excellent Video. Different trucks have different stuff to remove. I have a 2010 F150 Super Crew Cab Lariat with AC Seats and dual climate control. I have a thru air center console with console shifter. I had to remove both front seats, center console, shifter, remove all front carpet and remove the HVAC duct work that runs under the carpet and seat + all the stuff you had to remove. It was a royal pain and took me 6hrs. I could do it in 4 hrs next time. I also had to cut one front mounting post out of the way with a hack saw blade and I also did not use that back screw like you did in the video. Its totally non issue since there is so much stuff crammed down there it will not move. Everything works now and I have full heat and AC! Thanks a lot.

This video is really well done and helpful. It is a lot of work and you need to make sure to take out as many screws and bolts as possible, as mentioned. If you have a flow through consul with floor vents under the front seats, then there is a step that this video misses. After working for about an hour and no luck, I figured out that I needed to remove the front seats, the carpet, and the vent ducts. This isn't a lot of extra work but their are 4 bolts per seat that may be rusted on and difficult to turn. I removed the bolts and slid the seats back while leaving the power to the seats connected. With all of the junk out of the way, I could access the area and shift the venting around enough to actually get the part out. The next difficult step was plugging the wire harness into the new actuator. I had to have my wife help me so that I could hold the wiring in place and she could push the actuator in. The next difficult step was to get the splines on the shaft to line up with the socket in the actuator. Mine was off and I tried to force it for about 45 minutes. After a lot of depression and thoughts of giving up, I decided to turn on the system and adjust the temperature to see if that would help. As I adjusted the temp dial, I pushed up on the actuator. The motor turned the shaft and it easily slipped into place. Everything went back together pretty well. All in, I spent 6 hours on this project. Gratifying when it is done and happy to save $800 but wow it's a lot of frustrating work.

I did exactly everything you did in the video and I got it out and the new one in. Took 6 hours, but the drivers side vents have its full range of temperature back again! One thing not mentioned is the vent for the back floors needs to come out which means removing the front seats and pulling the carpet back to access the screws securing the vent to the floor. There is A LOT of prying on the different plastic vents down under the dash and prying it hard is the only way to slide the blender motor in and out. Also, it is impossible to get the last screw into the new blender housing, that's all the way back towards the drivers side, so I ignored it. I left it with only one screw keeping it in place with no problems at all!!

Just completed replacement, OMG , you casually mention "electrical connector" at end! That one thing took me hours & hours and some cutting of plastic on passenger side to get my fingers in enough to connect the connector to the back of the actuator. I got it! but I would not recommend trying this unless you have long skinny fingers. Mine is a 2010 F150 4 X 4 Lariat. This job Sucks . But thank you ! Removing Dash would be ok if you get someone to discharge your air conditioner properly.

The 2011 I'm doing now is different than this one and I can't get that driver side screw. It has another tube over the manifold tube that you pried down.

Great video. Just did this on my 2008 Expedition. There are a few minor differences. First the center console as an extra screw under the change holder that has to be remove. There are also three wiring harnesses that have to be unplugged on the Expedition and they are inside the center console. You will have to disconnect and move the duct work that goes to the back seat in order to get to the actuator. It really wasn't to terribly hard or a job. I would say the most difficult part was reinstalling the actuator. Make sure to use a little pressure to get it back into place. And you will have to break the back tab on the old actuator to get it out and don't worry about installing it on the new one, you won't need to.

First, thanks for the video! I know this takes time and effort for you to do and I appreciate it tremendously - I learn a lot from your channel! I have a 2013 Expedition Limited with Electronic DATC. My driver's side (LH) blend door is in the same location HOWEVER there is not as much space between the bottom of the floor duct and the vehicle body to pry a large enough space to remove the actuator. In addition to the steps in the video, here's what I had to do: 1. At 2:03, center console removal is different (see below link). 2. Remove DATC panel, and lower panel including Trailer Brake Control unit. 3. Cut out the pillar that connects to the floor duct shown @ 6:07 4. Break the 2nd mounting clip as shown @7:22 and cut out the mounting pillar for that side. 5. Remove old actuator by prying apart the two ducts as mentioned and sliding out through space created from Steps 3 & 4. 6. Reinstall the new actuator (Doorman part 604-252 @ $25 - Advance Auto Parts) with only ONE screw as shown in video and placing VERY thick foam between actuator and floor duct AND between floor duct and vehicle body to hold everything in place. CAUTION, CAUTION, CAUTION!!!!!!!!!!!! The connector is on the REAR of this actuator (front of vehicle side). The wire harness for this actuator is VERY short and you can NOT remove the actuator without unplugging the harness FIRST! One of the most difficult parts of this job was reinstalling the connector in the rear with the actuator "partially" pushed into place as there is only room to do it "one handed". Took me about 8 hours to do this as I tried several things before cutting out pillars in steps 3 & 4 above when I finally realized that was necessary for me to be able to remove the actuator. It was closer to 10 hours if you count the swearing and praying. This was definitely a hack job but I was able to replace the actuator without removing the whole dash! The below link has harness drawing, DATC schematic, DATC removal, TBC removal, center console removal and lower blend door actuator removal from my 2013 Expedition shop manual. GOOD LUCK! www.dropbox.com/sh/brvw1rh9kmg4dd0/AACfPj7drHz1ipInv6UBp-D7a?dl=0

Thank you for sharing this technique. Accomplished this repair successfully. Note that it may be near impossible to use a non-motorcraft part due to the thickness of aftermarket replacements.

your calmer than cool hand luke . man that was tight fit , id be cussing whole time . lol great videos buddy , thumbs up

I had lost the AC on the drivers side, I only had hot air of my 2010 F-150 passenger side was OK. I had replaced the lower (driver side) blend door actuator motor in about 4 hours time with out pulling the dash, our incurring any damages. Ford charges 10 hours (about $1,000) just for the dash removal. I had followed the Que from Randall Thurman, thanks Randell and the videos as well they are extremely helpful. I also cut away the stand off (screw tower) from the foot duct by the forward fastener that wasn't used that allowed access for a 7 mm open end wrench to start, than finishing removal with needle nose pliers (reverse to install). I also cut away the aft right hand stand off coming down from the plenum for the foot duct fastener which allowed clearance for the splines to pull the motor out. The connector was a little tight but do able. I also performed the re-calibration by pulling fuse #15 for 5 min and powered up for 30 seconds before starting. That had corrected the issue I had, and also saved a few dollars. I had a real concern with pulling the dash, to many things to go wrong with that process.

Good presentation and info. I own a 2010 F150 and both of my actuators went south. I was able to replace the upper one by removing the center section and was going to try what you have done for the lower. You just verified my thoughts on the access. As a working tech, I have done the most of the big 3 heater actuators and things do not change much... engineering on these still sucks. Hopefully the Dorman replacements I procured will last this life of the truck (wishful thinking). Thanks!

love the vid of both doors... odd, mine makes no noise, at all.. and BOTH sides go out at same time, not just one side. When it started, it was hot on one side and then cold on other.. but no more, it is always freaking cold when it is cold outside! lol I think it did it in the summer and only did hot of coarse, lol odd .. though it is random, if you use " duel" it seems to trigger it, but it is both sides.... and not a sound.. every time I start taking dash apart, it stops.. odd... but thanks for video, I will be moving forward and replacing both of them...

I ended up pulling my dash to do it the "right" way, but unless you remove the evaporator and move the whole box up, it doesn't seem like you gain much. We still had to pry up quite a bit to get the lower duct removed. It took me all weekend to get completed. Thanks for the great videos.

First, Thanks for all your helpful video's. I have a 2012 f150 platinum. If the new actuator goes all way around without being mounted, is it ruined? Couldn't get alignment , so had to bump key switch to rotate keyway to correct position on actuator. Went full revolution clockwise. Never went counter, even adjusting temp on control panel...always clockwise no matter if hot or cold was called for.

2014 expedition, dual climate, AC seats- don’t even waste your time. Work some OT and bring it to a shop.

Wish you were local to me, my 2013 fx4 is having this issue and the dealer wants 800-1k to do the job.

Did this today on a lariat. It’s a little more work if it has rear a/c vents. If you loosen all the hvac box hardware inside and out. Wedge a prybar on the trans tunnel up on the hvac box and hold with some block of wood you can get in their. It still really sucks though.

I had the clicking behind the dash and no control over hot and cold air in the driver’s side so I diagnosed that it was the lower actuator. I got all the way to removing the actuator and realized it wasn’t going to happen on my model without also removing the seats as well. I decided to double check that the clicking wasn’t coming from the upper actuator. Turns out it was so I replaced that one instead. Clicking is gone, but unfortunately the hot and cold air on the drivers side still aren’t operating correctly . Is the lower also bad, but just wasn’t the reason for the clicking? Seems like quite the coincidence, but I guess it could make sense that they would go out at the same time. Meanwhile the hot and cold air has always functioned correctly on the passenger side. What am I missing?

I did it in 5 hours. I had to break a tab and one support post. The screws near the fire wall impossible to reach with this method, however the vid was a great tutor. Dealer wanted $800.

OK, great video. I changed my actuator out in a 2009 F150. Went to the fuse panel on passenger side foot well and there are several 15 amp fuses. How do I determine which one to pull for reset or calibration ? Thanks for your reply.

I've got a 2010 Expedition KR. Everything was pretty much as he said, a few extra pieces inside the console but not too bad. The only thing he really didn't go over was how to remove the wiring from the back of the actuator. Since the wires are not very long you will have to remove the connector while it is still wedged between the ducts. There is a red locking tab that has to come out before you can remove the connector. AKJeeper has a video where he removes the tab and connector and it shows it really well. If I hadn't seen that video I would either still be there trying to get it removed or I would have broken the wires I'm sure. I used some small picks from harbor freight to slide the locking tab out from the side and then squeezed my finger behind the unit to depress the bottom tab while again using the pick to push the connector out. All in all it took me about 4 hours or two days to get it finished but I saved a ton of money.

Used recipicating saw to cut off top of duct featured prominately at frame 6:02 on passenger side. Allows room to slip down & slide out & slide new actuater back in. If done this way, don't think you would need to mess with driver side at all. Still need to "loosen" up console for some finger room. Worked very well considering very tight spot & cutting does not affect air flow but I saved top just in case It affected thermostats or some other in foreseen side effects. If so, a screw or two from the bottom should do. Tested wth hour drive no problems & nice heat. Still had to break off back screw eyelet. Had both top & bottom go out. Replaced both without replacing the back impossible reach screws. If they go out again, should be a half hour job either way. Beats the 1200 mechanic cost to replace them with no guarantee. 2010 wth 42k. I know a lot of you are ford men but I was hoping for a few more problem free miles!

Awesome! THanks for the video! Just a few things that I didn't catch in the video that I had to do. 1. Remove seats to pull back carpet and take out ductwork that runs to rear seats. 2. There is a mounting stud in front of the actuator that needs to be there, I just trimmed up one of the fins on it in order to slide out the actuator. 3. I used a set of forceps from HarborFreight to hold the electrical connector and to slide it in. Other than that, thank you again!

Just wanted to give thanks on this video, helped me tremendously on my 2012 Platinum. I have rear air so instead of pulling the dash, I elected to pull the seats and retract the carpet to remove the rear air assembly. I did the job over the weekend (10 hours total over two days). I removed the passenger side screw to the actuator but had to break the drivers eyelet off just like the video. I could not fish out that actuator though, had to cut the pillar in front of it and then I had to ask my wife to connect the plug once the new part was installed. Put some closed cell foam underneath it to compensate for the pillar being removed and only one screw on the actuator. Any tips installing the plug on the lower actuator would be welcome because I have a feeling, based on the corrosion of the old part, I will be doing this again at some point. I also changed the passenger actuator even though it wasn't bad as that takes roughly 45 minutes to one hour.

I got a whole new ac kit in my truck & it blows cold when driving but cool when idle I got it flushed about 3 times cause that’s what most mechanic thinks it needs to be flushed any suggestions

Well, oh well, Great explanation, there is always one, ..... IF you have a center console, and have dual heat/cool controls, just add some more time and patience. You will have to move the carpet back and remove the thresholds. This is due to the wishbone floor duct feed. But I must say having to do this takes patience. I did remove a inch section of the duct work just in front of the damper motor, used a multi tool , then glued back into place. This was very helpful.... Thanks for the video and comments by others, it all was very helpful. I tried it three times, working so far . Fingers crossed, as others have replaced this and it was the controller. Thanks again...

I somehow got the blend door actuator out, but how in the world did you get the new one plugged back in?!

Would I want to replace it if it's not clicking but blowing hot air? Passenger side works fine. Thanks for your videos.

Thank you for the great vids. They are very helpful.I have a 2011 F150 with dual climate control and numerous issues. I have the problem with hot air from Driver's side and cold air from Passenger side with Temp setting on 75 degrees with outside temp of 30. The passenger side air is ice cold due to AC compressor running even when AC is not selected. I can have temp set at 80 degrees on VENT without AC selected and compressor still cycles. I also have the issue of air still coming from vents when "FLOOR" is selected. Will I need to replace all three actuators since there is a gammet of issues? I've ran the diagnostic on the HVAC by pressing the POWER and DEFROST simultaneously then RECIRC. "AC" shows on my display and the buttons flash. After powering the HVAC off and turning back on, the temps on Driver and Passenger are equal until I select a different setting. I also have the problem with hot air coming from the vents even with HVAC off. Do you have any ideas? Thank you.

I’ve had to do this twice in my 2010 F150. Not sure why it works for awhile and then goes back to not directing the air to the proper vents after a few months. What am I doing wrong? Thanks!!!

I just did this "hack job" on my 2011 f150 and honestly it wasn't bad. Thanks for the video. couldn't have done the replacement without it!

Hello, well, this hack should work but if you have seats with AC, it won't work. There is the duct work for the seats under the vent, no room to pry down.

i use a right angle drill attachment to pull the back screw, but you may or may not put it back but its not really a big deal on the duct.

Great video my friend. Just doing a little homework before looking at one today with a drivers side no heat complaint. Thank you! If i do film it, it'll definitely give you a mention.

I watched this video about 30 times, and then went in with my own approach. I did not remove the center console. Instead, I went in through the passenger footwell, removed all of the 8mm screws/bolts necessary to reach the actuator. I then pried down on it and broke the rear screw hole off. Then, I took an oscillating tool and cut off the long post that's right in the way, and the extra plastic fins which don't affect airflow at all. After that I was able to pry the old unit out, which became disconnected from the wiring in the process. I had to pry like there was no tomorrow. But like this dude says, the ducts are super flexible, just slowly apply more pressure. Getting the new one hooked up was kind of a bear, but doable. I had my pry bar held up with 2x4 chunks so that I could use both hand while hooking up the wiring. Some wiggling, repositioning, and curse words later, the wiring harness clicked in! Now I just had to shimmy it into place. This too required an awful lot of pressure, but eventually slid into the right spot, But then the actuator gear wasn't lined up with the interior workings of the hvac box. I simply turned the key to the on position, and ran the thermostat up and down while applying upward pressure to the unit. When the gears lined up, it slid right into place. I put it all back together, used some Gorilla super glue to put the peg back into place, pulled the fuse for one minute, installed fuse, recalibrated the blend doors, and BOOM! My truck is now super warm and the thermostat responds when I change the temp! Thanks for the video!! This saved me about $1200!

do you have a video of doing the driver side replacement of the blend door actuator

When I followed this, found it was quite good. However my battery was dead the next day, The dash, curtesy lights and mirror puddle lights stayed on once the shifter was removed. Need to pull the ignition and a couple of other fuses to prevent this.

I usually love your videos too - but you left out some key things that need to happen. The front seats need to be removed so you can get the floor vents out. There is also a hidden screw in the back. Why didn’t you show more detail? Usually your videos cover it all

Could you do an update to this repair/replacement for 2015 and newer F150 dual climate. Thanks!

I am planning on replacing these on a 2011 Platinum. My plans are to pull the dash and HVAC box. Can I leave the seats in and get the dash out?

How did you get the new actuator in place!!???

2010 ford F150 5.4L no cold air on driver side I think will be lower blend door actuator, does the BCM will have code for this actuator? I will scan it to see if it does, thank you for the video, sure is a lot better them remove the dash..

I just completed this about 2wks ago and watched this video as well as another more in-depth dash board removal KZfaq video. I wanted to post some words of wisdom to the next person who may try to do this and get in over their heads (like I felt at one point). I would classify myself as pretty handy as I have worked on many of my cars in the past from full suspension upgrades to electrical and car audio/video upgrades so I'm not a rookie to getting in the weeds even though this was my first dash removal. #1: try the #15 fuse reset process PRIOR to doing any of this. My actuator wasn't actually clicking even though it still wasn't working prior to me changing it out. I didn't do this and wondered afterward if it just needed to be reset. If this is the "real" problem, it takes no money and 5mins of your time to check the box. #2: you can't, I REPEAT, CAN'T remove, and most importantly reinstall, the lower actuator without removing the dash. I attempted this for several hours over 2 days prior to realizing that I needed to bite the bullet and remove the dash. If you're not up to ripping your truck apart and putting it back together, take it to the dealership. #3: do yourself a favor and replace both actuators...even if you take it to the dealership (just don't let them charge you any extra labor...literally takes 10secs for the top actuator with the dash removed). I ordered 1 initially and waited and extra 2 days for the other to get delivered via Amazon because you definitely don't want to do this again. Now, with all that said, having actually "figuring it out" once I do feel confident that I could do it again and save myself about $1,000 again, but I wouldn't be happy at all. If you decide to go for it, be patient and keep track of all your screws and connections...Good Luck!

Hi hope you doing well, I had two actuators pull in my 2012 Ford F-150 3.5 Platinum crew cab with 4 doors. The old one on the drives side was blowing out cold air instead of hot, but worked fine on AC. After the new ones were installed, on the drivers side I now have totally hi heat 90° that still stays at that temperature even if it is set on 60°, and on the passenger side it only get hot if you run it all the way up to 90°. 89° and down is cool air. On AC the passenger side works fine, but on the drivers side it blows out heat. Both actuators were bought from a Ford dealer. The garage that put them in can’t figure it out they are a local garage which are great mechanics. I have heard that the actuators have to be calibrated if so could you please tell me the procedure.... That you so much.

Good day Sir. Nice video. Have you ever replaced the refresh door? My door just broke and don't want to pull the dash out. Do you have an easier way to replace that resurculation door galation door thanks in advance

If you put the difficult-to-replace screw in the hole and then used either (1) a small speed clip washer or (2) a very small O-ring on the threaded side of the screw to keep it from falling out, and if you used the special thin-profile 8 mm wrench (the one you fabricated to get to the back screw on the top actuator, behind the radio), could you have easily screwed the second screw in without relying on the pressure of the ductwork to hold the actuator in place? Making and using that special 8 mm wrench made all the difference to me in putting in the second screw on the top actuator. This was a very helpful video for those of us with Ford trucks with aging and failing AC actuators. My 2010 Expedition has a number of clicking ones, which I am gradually replacing. Thanks for this and all of your excellent videos; they really help the average Ford owner and the shade tree mechanics out here.

Hey FordTechMakuloco, First, great videos. Second can you please give me some direction. I have a 2011 Raptor, Dual climate control. This summer the passenger side would not blow cold air, just luke warm. I suffered through knowing that winter was coming. Now that it is cold out I have no heat, anywhere, defrost, face, or feet, just cool air. I'm guessing that I have two actuators out. Can you tell me if that is correct and which ones they are so I can use your videos to fix them. Thank you