Hey thanks! That truly means a lot to me. Thanks for watching!

Awesome! You can do it!

You’re welcome! Thanks for watching and good luck!

I’m glad it could help! Good luck on it!

Thank you! Thanks for watching!

@@JunkyardJunkie Can I ask, when the timing cover goes back on, Is there a gasket or silicon sealant ? Thanks again

Me alegro de haber estado a punto de ayudar. ¡Buena suerte en tu proyecto y gracias por mirar!

Good i'm glad thank you!

Thank you it means a lot!

thank you! yes having it out on the stand made the job a lot easier, also made for great video/tutorial. i did not remove the oil pan and gasket while i had it out i should have but i was ready to get the motor back in the car and it slipped my mind. i did however go ahead and replace the rear main seal while it was out. hope you have a great day!

You’re very welcome! Thanks for watching!

Hey I’m glad I could help. Ya with only 76k miles I wouldn’t think it would have any problems yet. Let me know how it all goes. Thanks for watching!

@@JunkyardJunkie basically im gently trying to identify the almost diesel like sound. I'll check the bottom of the valve cover for chain slap. Then the timing marks etc (I have the tools) and go from there. I had a bore scope and saw some slight vertical scoring on the walls. I'm 2nd owner at 72000mi. When I previously owned a Mazda2 1.5 2011 5speed manual, I believe that had a chain tensioner that had lost its biting force but still had strong spring pressure. In cold starts, if I went above idle (while cold) itd get some sloppy sounds. As long as it was idle speed when cold it would not slap, thus during winter times id let it warm up, then I can accel like normally. I 100% told the next owner and they understood what to do for winter times. They didnt even realize these were ford engines and didnt realize the chain tensioner was also oil pressure driven. Had to show them the tiny hole in the backside of a picture.

I appreciate it. Thanks for watching!

You’re very welcome. I’m glad I could help. Thanks for watching!

Ya all the diamond washers are important to change. Your in there might as well change them all and yes it’s hard to find the correct ones my advice is to call the dealership for these parts directly. Hope this helps! Thanks for watching!

You’re welcome. Thanks for watching!

Interesting to see how many different tensioner and guide combinations ford and mazda used on the oil pump chain. The fusion and mazda5 2.5 don't have that bottom guide either. I went with the cometic timing cover gasket and it worked out really well. Most parts suppliers and stores don't know that all of the mzr motors are basically the same so it's Interesting to see the combos cloyes and melling put out for them. LOL

The 2.3 is very similar. but you will need to make sure to get the timing tool for the 2.3 it’s just designed a little different. For knowing if it’s your timing chain, you can always put it to top dead center and do a leak down test. Best of luck. Thanks for watching!

So the bottom one is for your oil pump. First thing to do is turn the crankshaft by hand make sure that it turns. If it turns then that’s good news you’re not locked up and you can start looking at your starter and everything. Best of luck. Thanks for watching!

Not sure how you can do it without taking the cover off.

Yes it can be done still inside the car. Thanks for watching!

Best way unfortunately is to drop it out the bottom. But you can pull it through the top with out transmission but it’s far more work and tight. As for a video sorry I don’t have one on that I have one of dropping a transmission in a Mazda 3. But I will say this one really was a easier motor drop. So, Good luck and thanks for watching!

Ya the donor motor didn’t come with the oil guide. It was a running engine so it can be done. But, with all that said I do recommend you putting it on or at the very least watching out for the oil pressure light. Remember the chain will stretch over time too. Hope this helps!

@@JunkyardJunkie thanks mate, my donor didn’t come with as well but doing the 2.5 swap as well not sure if the just pull the whole subframe out again or just try and do it whilst in the car

No problem! That’s a good question. I know I’d probably just drop the motor since it’s not to bad of a job. That way you have plenty of working room. Let me know what you wind up doing, good luck!

Yes it’ll pretty much be the exact same engine. The directions is from a program called alldata you can sign up for a diy account for a particular vehicle for not to much. It’s defiantly worth the money when doing big jobs. Yes it is possible to do it with the engine still in the car. Hope this helps. Thanks for watching!

With the camshaft holding tool and crankshaft pin in and crankshaft is against the pin, install the sprocket and bolt but leave bolt 1 turn loose. Now install the timing chain and tensioner. Pull the locking pin from the tensioner and pull the timing chain tight. Now torque the center bolt on the VVT sprocket while holding the camshaft with a wrench on the hex shape built into the center of the camshaft. There is NO special spot that the VVT has to be aligned on the camshaft. Thanks for watching!

@@JunkyardJunkie Perfect, thanks!

Hey, I know this is an older video. I am doing this same timing set, what are the marks on the back of the VVT for then? Does the sensor on top not use those marks to dictate the timing? Thanks

Thanks! Ya you will need to do the same procedure. Hope this helps. Thanks for watching!

Yes there will be some blow by at idle that’s pretty normal. It shouldn’t be too excessive. Hope this helps. Thanks for watching!

@@JunkyardJunkie That's so good to know - I purchased a CX7 and only checked for blowby on the oil dipstick port... felt nothing. Later when I pulled the oil filler cap, I could feel pulsing outward, and I semi-freaked out thinking I have a worn out engine...!!! The fact that there is non at the oil dipstick and from your description, I think I can relax a bit... I wish there was a video of this somewhere for reference, because I have not seen this on my other cars (all non turbos). At least this scare is making me change my PCV quickly!

@@pingpong9656 I’m glad I could ease your mind some. I would be on the exact same boat and change the pcv right away just to be safe.

I can’t remember off hand but it’s in the video when I start putting the bolt in I say how much to torque it by and then it’s like a extra 90 degrees after that. Thanks for watching!

So it’s always perfect practice to mark it. But in this case no it doesn’t really matter. You should be just fine. Thanks for watching!

Thanks for the quick response, I was freaking out over forgetting to mark it. I also forgot to take off the oil pump sprocket. It's annoying how nothing is keyed, lol.

Exactly I love this car but keyways are tried and true why you wouldn’t use it is beyond me. Anyways glad I could help. Thanks for watching!

Actually I had bought the car with a blown motor, so I did it for preventive measures on the replacement engine. Figured while I have it out I can help others and I won’t have to worry about it hopefully for quite some time. Thanks for watching!

Thank you! Ya sorry what you wanna do is make sure the cam lobes are facing each other. If you fast forward this other video I made I actually show you what it looks like when it’s 180 off and what it looks like when it’s set correctly. kzfaq.info/get/bejne/n5OlZ7F5tNeZk40.html. Hope this helps! Thanks for watching!

@@JunkyardJunkie thank you very much 🙏

Anytime!

No I wouldn’t change it at any particular interval. Mainly once it starts to fail it will give you signs to change it. But, if you ever pull the engine or change the engine I always knock it out while it’s easy to get to. As for making it last longer change your oil on time and always make sure it’s at the proper level. If you do that it should last a very long time. Hope this helps. Thanks for watching!

So the repair manual calls for it so it should be there. The good thing is the replacement kit also will come with it. I hope this helps. Thanks for watching!

@@JunkyardJunkie I went ahead and put the guide from my 2.3 on my 2.5 earlier and sealed everything up. So that makes me feel a lot better about my decision. Thanks for your help

Would it work most likely. If you look at each part number and they match up then I see no problem. But, if every part would work on the Mazda or other fords usually they would state that. Being that they can sell more of the exact same product. So it’s probably missing somethings you’ll need or somethings are slightly different. Honestly I would get the right stuff when it comes to major repairs. Hope this helps. Thanks for watching!

Thanks! Thanks for watching!

Thanks! That always means a lot. So, here’s the main kit. I believed this is the one i used: www.ebay.com/itm/123974264612?mkcid=16&mkevt=1&mkrid=711-127632-2357-0&ssspo=HOIFv6OfThS&sssrc=2349624&ssuid=TeVRrzBpTDS&var=&widget_ver=artemis&media=COPY Then you’ll need the vvt actuator for the intake side. they sell it separately. Here’s the link for that: www.ebay.com/itm/154938149471?mkcid=16&mkevt=1&mkrid=711-127632-2357-0&ssspo=4asdwbw-stq&sssrc=2349624&ssuid=TeVRrzBpTDS&var=&widget_ver=artemis&media=COPY Finally in the video I show the ford part number for the diamond plated friction washers. I had a hard time finding the part other than just straight from ford. But the part number is in the video. I hope all this helps. Good luck and thanks for watching!

@@JunkyardJunkie Thank you very much! btw ty for the detailed video! I'm pretty sure me and alot of people got lots of good info. God bless, stay safe! Subscribed and hit the bell noti

That’s what I’m here for. Thanks for the subscribe and bell! God bless and have a great day!

No, unlike traditional keyway engines this has friction washers that hold the cam phasers. So, there’s no markings that’s why you have to use the tools. Hope this helps. Thanks for watching!

I did off camera but to no avail. I believe someone was in there before and forgot to put it back on because it wasn’t in the oil pan or anything. But I did replace it and it’s been going strong since that video, it’s added over 20k+ miles. Thanks for watching!

@@JunkyardJunkie I don't think it is installed from the factory. I did not find it in my engine either. No bolts or guide. I also cannot see it on dealer's diagram.

Same here. NO guide or bolts for the bottom guide

Honestly I don’t remember the brand name. But it was a cheaper one from eBay.

Yes you will still need it because the crankshaft pulley still has to come off. Hope this helps. Thanks for watching!

Thank you for the information!!!! And video

The reason I did it is I picked the vehicle up for cheap because it threw a rod. So, since I was changing motors I like to do preventive maintenance like the timing chain if I’m changing engines (way easier while it’s out of the car). Honestly I would not change the timing chain unless there’s a reason too. I’ve seen many of these chains go for over the lifespan of the car (with good oil change intervals). If you can hear slack in the chain or the guides break your going to hear noise coming from there. You can also take the oil fill cap off and listen. Also the motor I put in had 89k I believe. Hope this helps. Thanks for watching!

So, it will be ok for the cam phaser, I’ve made this mistake before. But I do highly suggest to always try to remember to mark it. it’s good practice for the future. but you should be safe there. So not cleaning the mating surface it will still likely work but I personally wouldn’t take the chance. I prefer keyways but with these I always try to make sure the mating surface is clean so it doesn’t throw itself out of whack. So should you tear it back down if it was me I personally would. Replacing the vvt actuator would be good preventive measure because I know it blows to keep taking it apart. I hope this helps! Thanks for watching!

thanks for the reply. when you recommend i change the vvt actuator do you mean the camphaser gear thing or the solenoid?

You don’t have to. but I was talking about the cam phaser.

@@JunkyardJunkie ordered. thanks for the help man. i never want to take this apart again lol.

Haha I feel you on that. Good luck!

Thank you. Yes most likely it’s not fitted from factory on your vehicle. Mazda tends to leave them off of their non turbo cars (I don’t understand why). So, I believe your ok. I hope this helps. Thanks for watching!

So you do have the friction washer between the bottom gear and the crankshaft pulley? If you do not have the crank shaft pulley on there, all it will turn is the crankshaft inside instead of turning the crankshaft and the cams together. Hope this helps. Thanks for watching!

Go to 31:30 and you will see how I torqued it down it’s the same to take it off. Make sure to break it lose first thing. If you do like I did you can also make a tool out a simple piece of metal attach two small bolts to go in the holes of the gear and use that tool to counter hold it.

No it doesn’t have to be removed. I did it this way because it is easier and I was replacing the motor anyways. Hope this helps. Thanks for watching!

Some people don’t change them (I don’t know why). You’re already in there I highly recommend you change them too. Instead of keyways they have these stupid friction washers (can’t think of why it would ever be better than a normal key way.). The 2.3l is essentially the same procedure as the 2.5 except the number of teeth on the crankshaft pulley is different (can’t remember the exact number get it to TDC then mark the tooth the crankshaft sensor is on.), the other thing that’s different is the alignment tool it won’t be a flat bar on the 2.3l it’ll be flat then a gap to like a triangle piece (sorry if that’s not a good description haha.) other than that you should have it! Good luck!

Ya give me one second and I’ll look it up for you do you only need the friction washers?

So, if you look in the item description it fits 2007-2012 Mazda CX-7 www.ebay.com/itm/321833020144. That will take care of the camshafts. For the crankshaft www.ebay.com/itm/142826703686. I hope this helps!

Thanks! Thanks for watching!

Yes sir, It doesn’t have a tdc. The notches on it are to unlock it to take it apart.

@@JunkyardJunkie thats why you have that straight edge.

Yup the tool that goes in the back of the camshaft (the metal piece) keeps them in time. When Mazda made these engines I don’t like they didn’t use keyways. But, I hope this video was able to help you! Have a good day!

To me that’s pretty crazy. Here in the US you could expect to spend about 1500$ give or take. But really this is a easier timing job. At the same time I also know here we can get a used motor lower mileage for cheap I know people that will throw in a engine for labor and parts for 1200$ USD. So to answer your question I thinks it’s pretty steep personally. Best of luck. Let me know if you wind up using them or someone else. Thanks for watching!

If your in sydney ill do if for you for 1200 dollars inc parts

I’m not sure to be honest. Thanks for watching!

I’m sorry but this is the only way I know for you to do it.

@@JunkyardJunkie thank's

Very true! Thanks for watching!

I can’t remember off the top of my head but if you scroll to the end of the video it should be listed there. It’s a certain lbs then I believe 90 degrees. But I know I cover it in the video. Thanks for watching!

@@JunkyardJunkie how do I wind the tensioner?

@@JunkyardJunkienvm I'm thinking of something else, thanks for the help! Best video I've seen for this engine by far

Haha it’s all good. Thanks for the compliment and thanks for watching!

Yes, i only did it outside because I had to replace the engine (previous owner threw a rod). Also it made for a good clear video. Hope this helps. Thanks for watching!

Hey, I hate to hear that what is your compression reading on each cylinder? The good thing is with these engines as long as you did the proper set up, it’s hard to mess up the timing. especially if you followed this video. As for the bolts not being tight yet when I released the pin it would have been fine if they were torqued down because that timing tool keeps it in time. Now you may be on to something if it was really really hard to remove. Was yours super hard to remove or did it just take some force (because they fit tight). Also did you make sure the cam loves where facing each other? Look at this video at 16:40 kzfaq.info/get/bejne/n5OlZ7F5tNeZk40.html. In that video I show you can be 360 out which could be your problem. (And would have the crankshaft sensor out of time too.). Now a few more questions because knowledge really helps give better diags. What made you change the timing chain to begin with? I know I’ve seen people let there chain or guides get wore out it jump time causing issues that at that point a timing chain job isn’t all that’s needed. So was it running good before you did this? Is there any other info that could help us figure this out?

@@JunkyardJunkie It is all good my friend I appreciate the concern.. If I would’ve watched your video more thoroughly I might not be in this mess. So I agree with you.. I had both timing tools set before pulling the pin. I am an engineer which doesn’t really mean anything but just stating that I pay attention to detail because I know how easy it is to mess things up (hence my dilemma). So to answer your question yes it was quite difficult to pull the timing tool out after. And now going back trying to set the timing tool into place it can’t.. I think just that small micro adjustment of not keeping the bolts loose to allow the cams to adjust messed up the timing ever so slightly. Also, to answer your other question and after watching your video fortunately the 1st position cams were facing in towards each other because I didn’t know that was a thing. Gouging into the next section of your questions and I am glad you asked because it is very important.. pistons 1,3, and 4 were all reading 59 PSI and the 2nd was reading 47 PSI. Now the engine wasn’t warm because it doesn’t start lol but I put the tool in each one and let the engine turn 10-12 times to get a max reading. This is obviously really low which leads me to believe the valves are slightly open due to improper timing. To go further into detail the main reason for doing all of this is the previous owner let the car sit for two years and just started driving it recently. The car overheated probably from two year old gas and blew the head gasket. After taking everything apart (radiator pressure test pumped coolant into oil) I saw that the pistons were healthy. The Cylinder head was mildly warped so I took it to the machine shop. I left the engine block alone because it passed my straight edge test. The pistons seemed really healthy and cleaned the crap out of everything before putting on the new gasket and tightening everything down to proper torque specs following the proper torque protocol using new head bolts (again I paid very close attention to detail and took my time through each step). The engine didn’t run before I did all of this work so I was not able to see if there was proper compression before. Because it did overheat the piston rings could be a problem but holy crap what a pain in the ass that would be. I think the best use of my time and money would be to take the timing chain cover back off and do the same thing I did before just keep the cam bolts loose so it can make those micro adjustments when pulling the pin. Do you have any suggestions on what you would do or how to check if the piston rings are bad? Like I said when manually turning the engine with the cylinder head off the pistons were functioning really well. I did clean the very top of the cylinder wall where carbon built up but using one of those buffer pads and break cleaner I feel was safe. I am just so confused.. the pressure is so damn low and I have already put so much time and money into this thing I am kinda hitting a wall. I put a new radiator, radiator cap, battery, timing chain assembly, camshafts, fuel injectors, valve cover, cam bolts and washers, water pump, thermostat, sensors, and the list goes on all to get to the final step and it doesn’t start. All the codes are cleared and the engine will turn over everytime. I also put new spark plugs and coil packs and cleaned the entire fuel system and the fuel pump works very well. Also, checked fuses for fuel pump and injectors. So I know I am getting the fuel and the spark. Anyways, I hope this helps your diagnosis. Your videos are very thorough and I appreciated them they helped so much.. I can’t believe i missed that one small thing.

Ya being a engineer defiantly is a huge help. Your knowledgeable and pay attention like you said. So if the cam lobes where facing upwards towards each other then that’s good you were doing it correctly (I should have explained that in the video but that was my first video haha.). So with low compression like that your theory does sound right that it is just a tad off timing would be the culprit. But it’s hard to mess these up. Let me ask to be sure when your torqued the cam gears did you counter hold on the camshaft like I showed? If you did then timing really shouldn’t have jumped. that bar will protect them from jumping. So you had the heads done (that’s good) and I trust since you’re a engineer the straight edge on the block you checked all the angles so those both should be good. But with all that your rings still could be bad and causing the issue. So what I would do personally is do what’s called a cylinder leak down test. Let me find a video real quick. Ok so check this video out: kzfaq.info/get/bejne/nq2mapOD3s-rd5c.html That way you can check to see if it’s leaking past your pistons into the crankcase or if it’s leaking out from wherever. but, before doing that I would do a wet compression test. pour about a tablespoon worth of oil into the cylinder then spin it over and check your reading. if it jumps up higher then you got a problem with your piston rings. So this is we’re I would start before redoing the whole timing. I know we all get stumped like this from time to time and it is really aggravating. But I would focus fire on the compression because even if it’s not getting fuel or anything else that’s ok that can be fixed but compression issues you have to get that fixed first before going down any other rabbit holes. Thank you so much. that truly means a lot to me. I want to be able to help people and I try to make good videos. But with that said I really do hope this information helps. Let me know if you have any more questions and let me know how it goes. Good luck!

@@JunkyardJunkie Thank you for all this feedback! so I went ahead and did the wet test and luckily the pressures all stayed the same. I don’t have an air tank to do a leak down test but i honestly don’t think it’s necessary. the camshafts are clearly out of alignment. the back cam slightly turned outward and the front (intake) cam slightly turned outward the other direction. the tool can’t fit in there so those valves are most definitely open but just ever so slightly that it allows all the air to escape. super annoying because i have to go back through and do it all over again even though i felt like i did it perfectly but unfortunately i didn’t pay attention to that detail and i am paying for it. I’ll reach out with an update if that fixed it or if i’m still stuck. if valves are slightly open can it effect the pressure significantly like my situation? i’m going to do a radiator pressure test first just to ensure the new gasket sealed properly.

That’s great to hear. I think you got it nailed down at this point. Because yes that slight bit off could cause the compression to be off the way it is. I know it’s a pain to redo but you got this! Defiantly keep me updated on it and good luck!

It’s holding up great. What did they quote you at the dealer?

About 220 without the oil pump chain and sprockets and tensioners

That’s actually a decent price for parts and labor a lot of more reasonable then what I’ve seen.

Its just for parts.

That makes a whole lot more sense.

You can adjust the crankshaft sensor. it has slack for you to align it. Hope this helps thanks for watching!

? I’m not sure what your asking?

I’m sorry I can’t. You can grab a repair manual from the parts store it should have the full procedure.

@@JunkyardJunkie bummer ok

I got mine from alldata. but, most owners manuals will have the torque specs. Same with a quick google search will help you find the correct torque specs. Hope this helps!

Yes it’s close but you’ll need a different timing tool in the back. this should work FreeTec Engine Camshaft Alignment Timing Tool Compatible with Mazda Ford a.co/d/3Rstw3e Hope this helps. Thanks for watching!

@@JunkyardJunkie thanks in advance! Can it be done with the engine in the car?

Yes it can it’s just tight.

@@JunkyardJunkie thanks brother!

I personally think it is. But, I would recommend on making sure you get it for a good price. Also, have it looked over because it’s a extremely nice riding car and good motor that’s pretty easy to work on. If you have any specific questions feel free to ask.

@@JunkyardJunkie thank you so much! You are very helpful and I appreciate your time in assisting us. I drove the vehicle, it is very clean and drives very smooth! I like it a lot. They are asking $8k after fees and taxes. I would love to consider it but at a lower price imo. However, from your personal experience. Is there anything that I should look for in particular known issues? Thank you so much. :)

No problem at all! So, this car has had recalls so I would get those done first thing. You can schedule it at a dealer they will replace your airbags and your lower control arms for free. But, somethings I’d suggest when you look at it again is go over to the front make sure the timing chain isn’t making any noise. If it is then the guides could be worn. But from my understanding this car was well taken care of. So it should be fine but that’s one thing to check for. Another thing is if it’s the sv model I highly recommend looking at the condition of the cv axles (boots) and the seal where it goes into the transmission. The part is more expensive than other models and it’s usually a longer wait to find. Honestly these motors are pretty strong my only complaint is like in this video instead of key ways they use friction washers. But, honestly I’ve haven’t seen trouble out of them. So, with that said I think you’ll be super happy with the purchase it’s a great car. But I do think you should try to talk them down on the price if you can. But other than that I hope this helps and let me know if you wind up getting it! Have a great day!

@@JunkyardJunkie wow! I cannot thank you enough for your assistance. You have helped me understand the vehicle more and I will definitely take advantage of your assistance. I sincerely appreciate your time! 🙏🏼 I will keep you updated my friend. Thank you again!

It will if it’s the non turbo engine in it. If it has a turbo you’ll need this tool: Shankly Engine Timing Tool for Ford/Mazda www.amazon.com/dp/B079QJNVK3/ref=cm_sw_r_cp_api_glt_fabc_408VZ5SCH9A3Z9HMV4CC Thanks for watching!

@@JunkyardJunkie im a little confused I have a non turbo 2.3

@@JunkyardJunkie great clean video man A+++++

Thank you so much! I appreciate that!

First you have to do the timing pin?

Thanks! ya oem tools 24448 I believe I have it’s listed in my description (Ford/Mazda timing tool) with a link to it.

He also forgot he needs to time oil pump gear... since oil pimp drives harmonic balancers😢

Ok few things. Kit didn’t come with a holding tool. Service manuals show the proper tool is a crankshaft pulley holding tool. When I install it and it has a lot of torque I used a flywheel holder on the back (pretty sure I showed this in the video). The cams you can counter hold on the flats (as I showed in the video). The tool you’re talking about would also work. I did change the oil pump gear I may not have shown me doing it because you have to remember this is my first ever video haha. But the vehicle is still running strong as ever. Have a good day. Thanks for watching!

I can't find the list of torquing specifications anywhere on the internet

Good luck tomorrow! All torque specs are in this video. Thanks for watching!

@@JunkyardJunkie haha it's been 4 times now I'm listening to the video I paused and took all the notes thank you again

You’re very welcome. Thanks for watching! Let me know how you do. I believe in you!

It’s a good tool

Hey if you felt it was unprofessional how do you feel it should be done other than a timeline? As long as the video helps people thats what matters but I’m open to criticism.

Brah....Davoud can you even spell your own name right? Try doing that and perfecting the English language before you criticize someone else’s work.

Yes, even though I don’t like that they replaced keyways with the friction washers. I got to say these engines do tend to last pretty well if you keep up with maintenance.

@@JunkyardJunkie Hi I have this vehicle also how can I prevent the turbo from going and timing chain?

Main thing of course is to make sure to change oil at or right before your intervals. Make sure to always keep proper oil levels. Other than that it should last a very long time. Timing chains usually do very well about not giving you problems. Hope this helps! Thanks for watching!

I love Mazda’s the only complaint I have is the diamond washers instead of keyways.

@@JunkyardJunkie I have a new cx9 turbo man that motor has great mid range pull. I use Amsoil also. Made a huge difference in starting valve train noise from the Castrol the factory uses. People need to learn the game going on with the word full synthetic vs 100 % synthetic. Full synthetic is a blend of base stock oil with synthetic additives. 100% synthetic is what is says . Amsoil and motul are 100 % synthetic oils . No base stock foundation.

I’ve actually been looking at the cx9, may I ask what kind of mileage your getting on average? Also any other feedback on it?

@@JunkyardJunkie best riding car I ever owned. I had 3 cx5 s then upgraded. The Bose stereo is amazing . The dual control ac front and back is fantastic . The headlights are great and we’re terrible on the cx5. I have no complaints at all. I bought the touring model. Mpg combined is 28 and 32 highway. It moves and with no effort . Good luck you won’t regret it

Ps. I bought a new 2019 and got a great left over deal. Also note the 2019 is 7 passenger . The 2020 is 6 passenger.

Just being thorough for those who need it. You don’t have to watch it. Have a good one.

Haha your absolutely right! I hate they built it this way when keyways have been a tried and true way of doing it that will out last the motor in most cases. Thanks for watching!

Actually... you are wrong I'm just puting a 1.8 together with same design - and i dear to say this is a genius design and you know why ? If you skim the block and then skim the head you loose some material that makes the timing go out of sync by the amount you skimed. wiht a keyed design you cant compensate for that. Also i noticed i..e on my hyundai that i cant get it to perfect TDC due to small inprecision in keyed setup. with this setup I was able to set perfect tdc via a clock dial and then I dont have to worry about the sprocket teeth not aligning perfectly with tdc. Srsly at first glance i was thinking this design suck but then I just understood its REALY good

Sorry this was my first video. But, the cam actuator goes back on the exact same way you took it off (it will not always be the same). Even if you don’t put it on how it was it’ll still work. You got to remember on this car we got the bar holding the time of the cams in the back. Hope this answers your question!

What?