Let me tell u my story. I just got an 08 Lucerne YESTERDAY and today when I woke up it wouldn't start. I watched a few videos and ran to get a new fuse since mines was burned. Car still didn't start with the new one then I ran into ur video. So yea my car a lil older than yours but I had my fiance use the same concept of running a wire to a different fuse and guess what IT WORKS. Thank you so much!!!! Not sayin I will keep it like this 4ever but it will do for now. If y'all having the same problem give this a try for a quick fix

DUDE! This is the best video on the internet. Realistically, a fuse box is a piece of plastic covering the medal components... so the wire definitely should work and it did! Smart man!! Only question I have for you is, what size wire is best? I’m using radio wire but the relay is still getting a little warm. Not sure if I have the right amperage. Thanks so much you saved me hundreds

Have this happening in my 08 Buick Lucerne. Basically the rear seat brackets on the left hand side stick out a bit too far and push on the side of the fuse box. Apparently GM has made a low profile relay to help with this but I haven't come across it yet. But ultimately this pushing over time as people get in and out loosens or wears out the female/female spade style connector inside the fuse box that runs from the base of the fuse box to the pins that your relays/ fuses plug into (inside). Over time this results in a loose connection to the fuel pump relay pin #30. This is your 12volt constant. So due to this poor connection you get arcing and the relay struggles to get the proper voltage gets hot and burns out. Very rarely is the culprit the fuel pump in these cars from my understanding, You can test fuel pump amperage and ensure proper functioning by jumping from pin 30 to pin 87 on the fuse block and turn the key to the on position; if the fuel pump kicks on / car starts it is not the culprit. If you want to be more thorough you can check the amps, you should be somewhat stable between 8.0 and 9.5 amps to the pump. Unfortunately once this starts to occur your options are limited. Ultimately you have a four options. The optimum solution is to replace the box and cut the seat brackets back (should cut brackets regardless of what fix you do). You can split the box and install new female to female style spade terminals but this requires drilling out x3 of the grommets to get the box apart to get to them. Looks difficult and will damage the box permanently but should fix the issue. If you are pretty electrically savvy you can buy an external relay and bypass the one in the box. This would require finding a 12 v constant (add 20 amp in line fuse), 12v switched (15amp in line fuse), fuel pump wire and grounding the relay. Finally would be to do this as a temporary fix. Jumper from a good 12v constant to supplement the damaged relay pin 30 with a stable current. Looks like allot of these relays have a fuse in close proximity, for example the 20 amp fuse next to the fuel pump relay in the top left corner of the box. Protects the 12 volt constant to the relay. So what I did was ran a 20 amp inline fuse and attached to one of the two copper spade terminals located in the fuse box, the one closest to the front of the car seems to be a 12 volt constant and the one just below has no voltage (probably a ground); I'm assuming these were added for easy accessory hook up. From that spade terminal I ran a 20 amp inline fuse to the damaged pin 30 of the relay, this should eliminate the chance of taxing another relays available current too much while still providing the same protection that the relay initially had. If my logic is correct since we are now splitting the circuit if you swapped the two 20 amp fuses for 10 amp then the overall circuit should have 20 amp protection overall but I'm not 100% on that perhaps somebody can chime in. Been about a week, relay is remaining cool and have stopped blowing relays, everything is working correctly and I haven't had any issues since. Good luck folks!

good vid bro. people keep saying it the seat, yet i cut my seat well before the n still i got the issue 2 years later. ima try this here n see how it goes.

Good shit! was hoping to get a glimps of the buick! haha hope to see a post after the wheels.

The relay that you wired the fuel pump to is the RAP system. Which stands for Retained Accessory Panel. It stays on after you turn car off for up to several minutes. So your pump will be running that long too. I'm not sure if this is the case but my 2010 lucerne had relay 70 in that spot. And that's what it does. Maybe it will work but it could mess up your engine.

I am having the same problem on a 2010 buick is the wire still working

I changed the fuse box but it still getting hot but not melting

Thank you I have a 2008 and will check to see if I have a fuse box under my seat.

If anyone is wondering why their relay get super hot and car won`t start.The correct fuel relay has the numbers 8385 written on the top.When placed in the fuse box those numbers should be towards the drivers door.Not all 4 pin relays are the same even though they fit and work.Some will not dissapate the heat properly.When you put the wrong relay into your fuse box and it heats up it causes the prong connectors inside the fuse box to spread and not make proper contact,which causes more heat and more problems.I actually went to an auto parts store and bought a fuel pump relay and they gave me an aftermarket one that was not the right one for the car and caused it to overheat.I replaced it with an 8385 and does not heat up at all anymore.Just thought people should know bcause i see a lot of people guessing at the issue.

Good video man

Yoo I found the turnbuckle for the air ride. Lowe’s had it for free $99 lol 🤣 any way I installed it on my 2011 Buick Lucerne on 24x9.5 velocity’s wrapped in 275/25/24’s also those rubber strut boosters did the trick as well. I’ll tag you in it so you can check it out. I made a video not long ago and KZfaq crashed on me

This might have work for you for a little bit but I would highly recommend not to do this. I was told by my mechanic you can blow the whole system out and burn up some wires for the main wire panels and it would cost you a fortune to replace. Just replace the whole fuse box that's what you're going to have to with these cars to do it right well you're just going to cost you hundreds or even a few thousand dollars by the time you're done if you don't do it correctly I'm just saying it's my opinion people going to do what they're going to do I know it's hard cuz money's tight but somehow it could be done. You can also take the terminals out with the fuel pump relay and solder in a complete new fuse box for just the fuel relay people do that maybe that might be the best way to go if you can't afford a new box

Dude you can't see what you're pointing at 🤦

This guy must be standing next to a waterfall. Can't understand anything that he says.