Awesome! Glad to hear you got it sorted 🙏

Glad it worked 🙏🙏

Glad it helped!

Mine comes on for a couple days then turns off..

Whaat was the fix

Mines coming on go off then come back on after some hours

This happened AFTER replacing the battery? How did you fix it?

Awesome! Glad to hear 🤙

Awesome to hear man. Congrats on the Si!

Awesome, glad it helped 🤙

@@TheOriginalBeeCee any ideas on what it could be if the fuse is fine. My car drives fine but is throwing these lights

@@rudyortega6322 same here did u ever figure it out ??

@@rudyortega6322 you ever figure out the issue?

Glad it helped 🙏🙏

Lol definitely Christmas tree of death. Glad it helped and you got it solved 🙏

Hopefully thats all it is man! Good luck with getting it situated 🙏

Awesome man glad it helped 🙏🙏

After changing your battery did the lights stay off? I had some green corrosion on the positive terminal and I cleaned the outside and it seemed to help for a little bit. Now the check vsa,handbrake , etc are all randomly coming back on but I notice that there’s no difference in the operation or feel of the car so it seems as if something is just tripping these warnings but the actual parts are still operating as normal

@@khimarironso8816 yes they all remained off after. I would test the battery with a voltmeter if you have access to one, to determine if the battery is bad or not. After sitting overnight, go out and test battery before starting. A good battery should read 12.5V or more with the car off after sitting overnight.

Good luck! 🙏🙏

🙏🙏🙏

Awesome...glad it fixed it!

🙏🙏🙏

👍🙏🙏🙏

Awesome! Glad it helped!

@DTrey FloatGoat have you checked the fluid level? Could be something that simple. If not I would trace wiring, I’ve seen someone have just the PS warning come on for a broken wire. Definitely most likely going to be something directly with the PS system. Check for fluid level, leaks, wiring, etc.

Good luck! Let us know how it goes 👍

Te funciono?

Thanks for sharing your experience. You had double the charging issues I see.

Did your alternator change fix this issue?

Exactly what’s happening to my 2013 civic. Did the alternator change fix it??

Definitely got something else going on, outside of anything outlined in this video. More than likely is going to require some troubleshooting to locate the source(s). Definitely would say go over everything again, if you haven’t already.

Glad they went off!

Maybe ABS Sensor? Do you have access to an OBDII scanner that can read ABS codes?

Lmao

Glad it helped!

I’m glad, I appreciate the comment!

​@@TheOriginalBeeCee I don't speak much English and I didn't understand your video very much, I have this same problem with the lights on my dashboard, could you write me what to do and I translate it? thanks bro

🙏🙏🙏🙏

this happens on my 2012 civic as well! I am gonna try the method

Yes it works for me!!! Just drive my civic for one minute and all the warning lights gone!

This is the exact same problem I’m going through right now! What was the outcome of your situation??

Can you turn on the car and rev the engine and its just the gears dont work?

Glad it helped 🙏

🙏

Did you figure it out?

The VSA module is expensive it can be anywhere from 800-1600 try disconnecting the battery for a few minutes and see if that clears it. Describe “not driving good” is it the car steering towards a certain side? Is the car vibrating? If you hit the car hard enough you could have bent a control arm, if it was a small bump could be a tire balance or alignment

@@erickjessicamontes9014 that’s exactly what it was took it to the shop had to get another arm and tire rods so the vsa system went off

Oh. You really hit that curb. 🧐

@@captainteamcarry3 yes I did it was slick outside from raining all day and I slid into it I couldn’t do nothing I tried still hit it ...

2012-2015 9th Gen. Civic Check ABS, Check VSA, Check TPMS...Check EVERYTHING! (W/ DIAGNOSIS) kzfaq.info/get/bejne/erSqlbmoqtqug4U.html Check out my updated video on this. Has troubleshooting tips and steps you can take to help figure out and narrow down the issue.

Did you fix it?

Yupp that is another potential cause for all these lights to come on! But essentially exactly what you stated, is what needs to be replaced. The front driver speed sensor. The multiple lights coming on is notorious when they go bad.

Need to test the battery voltage to rule it out. I’ve made an updated version of this video with troubleshooting tips: 2012-2015 9th Gen. Civic Check ABS, Check VSA, Check TPMS...Check EVERYTHING! (W/ DIAGNOSIS) kzfaq.info/get/bejne/erSqlbmoqtqug4U.html That will give you insight on what to look for.

🙏🙏🙏🙏

In your case, i would really suggest having the car scanned with a good OBD Scanner. I would imagine one of your modules is throwing a code…and these cars are all but setup to have every light come on to “scare” you when you have one “issue” and/or a module is throwing a code. The battery is the most common issue that causes this, being the low voltage triggers all these lights to pop-up to scare you into having it checked/resolved immediately…but other issues do cause all these lights to come on as well. Couldn’t hurt to check the battery voltage with a volt meter as well, just to 100 percent rule that out. With the car cold & un-driven for a few hours, the battery should read at least 12.5V. But I would have the car scanned with a higher-end OBD scanner capable of reading more than just ECM codes, like ABS, PCM’s, SRS, etc. because you might have a code stored that a regular “check engine light” only scanner that say Autozone utilizes for free doesn’t pick-up.

@@TheOriginalBeeCee thanks for the response. I will definitely ask my cousin to bring his scanner to check it out since he has more mechanical experience than me. I hate these new cars, ask me to do an engine rebuild or troubleshoot any mechanical issue but when it comes to electronics issues it is just ridiculous.

@@germanarellanocampos5119 yea man seems its the new way manufacturers are going with cars. From what I’ve seen it started on higher end exotic cars, and nowadays it seems to have found its way into most manufacturers, Toyotas are pretty similar to this now as well. Recently watched a video on one that had damn near every light on for virtually nothing lol smh.

Hey man did you figure out what was wrong with your car. I have a new battery as well and my vps light came on as well as my hill start assist

@@brodiec7884 yea I needed to refill brake and clutch fluid One triggered them all it seemed

@@rosswestney7756 okay cool thank you I’ll check that!

Its an Si. Si’s come with the red lighting

It’s possible. I would maybe have another check done on the battery to be 100 percent. Should be at least 12.5v when off, before starting. Once started it should be at least 13.7v.

Had mine do this exact thing today too. O reily said battery and alt were good. But i bought a new battery anyway cause its older. “Charge charging system” still came up once and went away on the way home. Though it runs ok, something is still wrong

Mehhh lol

Wow, thats truly crazy. Sorry for the late response, have you gotten it resolved yet? Typically, the two main issues causing this are the battery (lack of power) and abs sensors. I have a friend who’s been a Honda Tech at a dealer for 5+ years as well, and I’ve spoken to him about this issue with all these lights coming on...and he’s told me from his experience it’s typically these two culprits. Somebody else commented on here as well stating that low brake fluid was his cause for all the lights. Seems as though Honda just programmed these cars to have every light coming on with everything little thing. One thing I would suggest is ensure those ABS sensors are good. I’ve seen bad ABS sensors right out of the box (especially cheap ones), and it could still potentially be a sensor. If you know someone with a scanner capable of reading the ABS Light, I would verify all 4 corners are on point even after the replacement.

I would check the voltage to confirm the charging system is on point. (Battery, alternator, etc). Need a voltmeter. A good battery should be 12.5v cold, and 13.7-14.7 when running. If the voltage checks out, its probably an ABS issue, in which case a OBD scan tool would need to be utilized to further diagnose/confirm.

@@TheOriginalBeeCee Update my computer is bad, I’m 2000$ in the hole 😶‍🌫️😶‍🌫️

Damn man im sorry to hear that 😕

I would check it with a voltage/mutli meter, if you have access to one, or pick one up. These cars are picky with voltage. With the car off & cold, so after the car has been off for like 4-5 hours or so…..that battery should be roughly 12.5v….as a good battery is 12.5v when cold. If you see it 12.2, or anything lower…it’s more than likely the battery. You can also check the voltage when the car starts to check the alternator output, should ideally be between 13.7-14.7v when first started & running. If all of the voltage looks good and checks out, I would have the car scanned with a good OBDII scanner that can read ABS codes etc., because they’re could be potentially a hidden “trouble-code” from one of the modules causing it that a capable scanner can pick up.

​@BeeCee Built hey, just a question. My traction control, ABS, and emergency brake lights are on (2014 honda pilot). Hooked up an obd ll scanner and gave the code 121 11 (vsa solenoid module) before i go and spend money on a new module, Could these lights be caused by a broken fuse? My battery died and it was jumped, then these lights came on. Changed the battery since, but the lights are still on the dash. Any thoughts?

I would ensure the battery is indeed the problem, and with the car cold & undriven for a few hours…I would check the battery voltage with a volt meter. With the car cold the battery should be reading at least 12.5v. It is possible to buy a bad or deeply discharged battery as well that isn’t putting out what it should be. Other than that, I would suggest having the car scanned with a good OBD Scanner. I would imagine one of your modules is throwing a code…and these cars are all but setup to have every light come on to “scare” you when you have one “issue” and/or a module is throwing a code. The battery is the most common issue that causes this, being the low voltage triggers all these lights to pop-up to scare you into having it checked/resolved immediately…but other issues do cause all these lights to come on as well. So after 100 percent ruling out a charging issue…I would have the car scanned with a higher-end OBD scanner capable of reading more than just ECM codes, like ABS, PCM’s, SRS, etc. because you might have a code stored that a regular “check engine light” only scanner that say Autozone utilizes for free doesn’t pick-up.

I needed a battery charger personally. Because my car doesnt get driven. The battery was dead, causing lights to come on. The battery still was good though. If you have a bad battery, charging it isn’t going to fix anything. You might need a new battery. You need to find someone or invest in a cheap voltmeter/multimeter. You can check a battery voltage that way. A good battery should be 12.5v or higher. So after letting it sit over night, come out in the morning and test the battery. If it’s anything below 12.4v you have a bad battery and it needs replacement.

If the CEL light is on, I would pull the code (OBDII scanner), and see what you’re getting.

Need to make sure that battery is good and/or charged. Why did it die in the first place? Either because its bad, or unused…in which case it could need a good charge.

🙏🙏🙏

yea its meant to scare you lol. They throw all these lights on purpose

If you have all these lights on with a CEL code… like you have, you should diagnose from the CEL Code. The battery issue would only be relevant if you didn’t have an actual trouble-code generating as well. However, you can always rule the battery out by testing with a volt meter. With the car off and cold, a good battery should be 12.5-12.4v minimum. If the battery is in the 11v range etc., or lower, thats when the battery should become a concern. A P0796 is definitely a transmission code though, so I would have it evaluated…..but it doesn’t necessarily mean you need you need a whole new transmission.

Yupp it’s because it’s an Si

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I’m surprised the dealer couldn’t get it sorted. All these lights do come on with ABS issues as well. Typically, an ABS sensor. If you have access to an OBDII scanner that is capable of reading ABS, I would check that first and see if you’re getting any ABS codes for any particular wheel sensor and go from there.

@@TheOriginalBeeCee The dealer said that the ABS module is on back order right now no other Dealerships have it and also there is no aftermarket part Also wouldn’t recommending using a used part . I was just told that one of the solenoids had malfunctioned in the Abs control module. It’s not a fuse issue or a battery issue

@@justinbarone57 so they “fixed” it, it didn’t work, and now they want to replace it, but its on back order?

@@TheOriginalBeeCee No the ABS module wasn’t available it’s on back order, N/a right now , they went the other way and they went under my dash and fixed a module, I forget what it was again, but that didn’t work so the service manager basically said we will use the money towards a new diagnosis and the rest of it towards the part when it comes in because they said a solenoid was not functioning in the ABS control module I believe it was the control relay they fixed but that didn’t work

​@@justinbarone57 did you ever fix this issue?

Good info 👍

Its the wheel speed sensor. Guarantee it. All these dash lights can come on with a wheel sensor as well. You need to utilize a decent OBDII scanner to read the data and pull the code to see what side it is.

@@TheOriginalBeeCee I have indirect speed sensors

@@jasongoldie9992 yea i know. They can still go bad lol

It’s because it’s an Si. Si’s came with the red lighting, base models are blue.

@@TheOriginalBeeCee lol stick shift racing red base model automics blue

I could still drive with no lights no dash for like few minutes go to and the car try to stall but still ran and I got out one stop when to a gasoline station and try to turn off the car with no car system ,so hold on to the start for few seconds until it turns off or disconnected the all most dead battery and it turned off

Johnathan Candelario you have a complete separate issue then anything discussed here. Have you ever taken either to a tire shop? I’m sure one of the TPMS sensors is just bad, and needs to be replaced. Any shop with a TPMS reader should be able to tell you which one is defective, and it should be a cheap replacement.

No sir….thats a new one on me!

Apparently my brake module went out, fixed it, now 3 weeks later I’m in the same situation! Any word on what I could do??

Anything is appreciated man

@@austinwoolridge5511 did your brakes actually fail? As in you lost actually braking? Or were you just told that module was bad?

@@TheOriginalBeeCee lost all braking, replaced the module and it fixed it until a couple days ago

I’m not familiar with your reference to the “intake boot”, can you elaborate on that?

Seems as tho all this “warning lights” all come on with most anything. But typically, when you have essentially every one, it’s usually a power issue. Let me know if you get it sorted, and what it was.

Wow that sucks to hear. Of course it couldnt be easy and just be the sensor itself. Thats surprising. It should be fine though, those lights are just annoying, it won’t prevent the car from operating as it should.

Hey, sorry to hear. My CEL was not on. It just randomly appeared when starting it one day. Nothing was done to trigger it really other than letting the battery die.

Here’s an update! After scratching my head for month I ended up taking it to a Dealership they wanted me to change everything so I took it to a Indy shop and they told me it was the valves they needed adjustments after 15 min and $200 latter car is running like New and is getting the best MPG it’s ever had.

😆

Yea man more than likely 🤙🤙

Samething happens to mine.. comes on fpr a few days turns off then a month or to later does the samething again

@@victorcordero1458 just to follow up. I had to replace the battery.

@@Pokka676 yea i did that still same problem

3 years later still happens

@@victorcordero1458 i think it happens when the battery starting to go bad or faulty. If your battery is new it could be something else.

west wood lol

Went to dealer and they said it was VSA swapped it for a used one and lights still on.

If a fuse was blown, you would have no power to the amp(s) and/or audio. But an aftermarket audio setup will definitely put a strain on the battery that it really wasn’t designed to handle. Especially these little Honda 51 series batteries, they really are just enough power to get the car started, and that’s really about it. If you have an audio setup in one of these cars I would recommend updating the battery at the very least.

@@TheOriginalBeeCee Aight thanks man will do

Sure its not your alternator killing the battery creating a power issue?

@@TheOriginalBeeCee that may be it. Any cheap ways to get that checked?

@@lordiermedia4001 if you have a 12V Volt-meter, you can first test battery at terminals with car off. Battery should be at least 12.5V with the car off. Then start the car, and test at the battery terminals with the car running, and the voltage should ideally read between 13.7-14.7V with the car running.

@@TheOriginalBeeCee Thanks, I’ll give this a try! Appreciate the help!

2012-2015 9th Gen. Civic Check ABS, Check VSA, Check TPMS...Check EVERYTHING! (W/ DIAGNOSIS) kzfaq.info/get/bejne/erSqlbmoqtqug4U.html Check out my updated video on this. Has troubleshooting tips and steps you can take to help figure out and narrow down the issue. Battery isn’t the only potential cause, but the most common.

It was only driven for like 5 seconds with these lights on. They all went off immediately after the 5-10 seconds of driving with no issues.

How did you know which wheel sensor to replace? What codes did you have? (I'm getting VSA, ABS AND PS)

@@dads8253 every light on the dash was on. Took it to a mechanic he said it was the passenger front. So I just bought all new ones.

Yup, that is definitely another culprit of this scenario. The battery is easier to check or rule out (unless you have the correct diagnostic tools readily available for the sensors), which if the battery isn't it from what I've seen it typically is a wheel sensor

Exactly

Wowww. That’s insanity.

UAE Civic Hybrid headlights from Dubai.