Just a safety tip, when using that style of jack, as it lifts the load, it pulls the load closer. On concrete it means the jack will roll slightly, which is good, but when you're using it on gravel it can't roll, so it'll pull your car instead. It means when you've got one side already on axle stands, it might be leaning and unsafe. Using the hammer on the spanner is a good idea, but rather than a rubber mallet, use a normal hammer, it's the impact that frees the bolt or nut, it simulates an impact wrench.

Sam, I cut a pipe that slips over my Socket ratchet handle, I've had it my tool box for 40 years and used it many times for leverage on tight bolts /nuts. Just a suggestion wear a face mask when grinding or safety glasses, also wear a dust mask to catch any nasty brake particles. GOOD JOB!

That "small thing' does not hold you wheel in as you said.. That is the adjustment for your parking brakes and from what I saw you didn't do it right. I give you props for not being afraid of any job.

Pro-tip i learned in a tire shop. if you sit cross legged infront of the tire you want to mount, you can use your forarms as leverage against your legs to raise the tire into place AND see where your bolt holes are too. super handy trick

This video is a huge help for me and my fam's 4 Subarus driving hard on Montana's calcium chloride covered roads.

Sam, I agree with alot of people when it comes to jacking your car up on gravel. Watching that and seeing your car pulling towards you when you were lifting the passenger side up was quite scary knowing that atleast your legs at a minimum were going to be under an unstable setup. Always put something under that jack like some plywood or a 2x8. Something that will allow the jack wheels to move as they are intended so your not pulling the car to an unstable position on the first side. The other thing is, I love that your dad is so open to teaching you how to do things. But, I would never use a pneumatic rust remover on my rotors or anyone else's, specially not for something that really does not need to be done. I realize the reason he did that is so that you could break the glaze from the previous pads, but that is definitely not the best way to do that. The pneumatic rust remover can actually cause damage not only on the surface of the rotor, but also on the internals in the form of tiny cracks. Once those are there, they are only due to get worse over time. You would be better off just using the various sanding discs to deal with that which won't cause potential damage. I am saying this as a retired machinist who has seen alot of crazy things people have done to accomplish the goal and sometimes it works out for awhile, and others it doesn't work out so well. I am in no way saying that you did in fact damage your rotors. What I am saying though is that you potentially did. Rotors are considered to be a precision piece of equipment that is designed to rotate true. When you apply a strong vibration/hammering effect to a precision piece, you are bound to end up with issues. With that being said, I still love your videos. I love that you read and learn from your followers. And I can't wait to watch more videos of you learning and progressing.

Father and daughter helping each other, reminds me of my 4 girls spending the weekends in the garage fixing things.

Your puppy brought his toy over to show you. He stood there and stared at it, hoping for you to grab it. Nice job young lady.

Damn, must be so good to have a parent to show you how to do things. You are extremely fortunate Samantha. *Thank You* the video. 👍

Learning to do these maintenance tasks can save you loads of money. Good work. Be nice to mom.

Your optimism and can-do attitude is appreciated and will take you far life!! Also..thanks for wearing the safety glasses!!

To push back the piston in the caliper I always use one of the old pads to spread the force and not getting the piston crooked. A pair of channel locks used with the handles on the old pad works great. That dog...! 😂🐶👍👍👍

Samantha knows about leverage with spanners. You can do anything with the right amount of leverage. Smart girl😊 Thank you for another great video Samantha 👍

Hey Samantha good job on doing the brakes I watched you and everything but just to let you know sweetheart make sure you those two poles that you had a hard time getting out of Make sure they're very tight because those are very important and I do have to say this That's got to be your dad because that's one smart man I've been a mechanic for years and a lot of people don't know to release those brakes like that loosen them up first they try to beat them all and beat them off and beat them all and it never works until you loosen them up So always remember that he did a very very very good job for you So keep up the good work kiddo

Looks like we are in the same boat for snowfall this year. You have a new snowmobile and I have a new Honda snowblower both begging for snow!

Your dad’s the man!

Another tip where you see those little rubber boots. Pull out those pins and grease them. If they go dry the caliper will bind up and ruin your brake pads.

After tightening the wheel nuts with the impact wrench you might want to check that YOU can loosen them again with the car provided spanner. Because that is what you will need to be able to do if you get a puncture miles from anywhere. Better to use a torque wrench to tighten them to the recommended load which happens to be something that the vehicle provided spanner will allow you to undo later.

Great job, Sam. But I got a bit psychedelic from the fish eye camera 😵‍💫😅

Some great safety tips on here, Axle stand stability, releasing tight bolts, while on axle stands ..grease on your slider calliper pins, your Dad knows the score, plenty of life left on those discs/rotors.. Great job though Samantha.. You have a nice practical car ..and quick too .. till the next one 👍🏻👍🏻🇬🇧

the grease is for the bolts and the edge of the brake pads that ride on the spring.the star adjuster does not hold the wheel on ,it adjusts the e brake .which you have to adjust right or it will rub when driving.but i love someone thats not afraid of getting their hands dirty.nice job

Ahhhh, the sound of air tools ... nothing else quite like it!!! Another good learning experience under your belt. Loved the comment about something having grease on it being how to tell it's yours! Too cute! Hope you got some snow the other day to play with the snowmobile before winter completely vanishes.

Sam , never to old to learn. I love that you are a ambitious girl , wish there were more that would show this kind of dementor . enjoy your videos

Sam, your dad has taught you very well, easy to see you know your way around tools. I don't know many girls that can do what you do. Keep up the videos, love watching you and am always amazed at what you can do.

Your dad is pretty smart he probably could teach you a lot. When you Where with Andrew you should have learned a lot.

I love the way like a true mechanic you wipe your hands on your trousers LOL, I just noticed you had a box of rags too lol

Hi the grease is for you to smear a smll amount on the back of your brake pads its dupposed to help syop squeeling great to watch you tackle this job its the best way to learn.

Thanks for the video! I have to do my 2011 Forester rear brake pads tomorrow.

Samantha I am a very new sub and I am thrilled you started a channel. I love your enthusiasm, Not that I dont love you but I really love your dog. What an affectionate and beautiful puppy. The dog appears to be your loyal buddy. You are such a superb example to women who want to work with their hands, my daughter included. My daughter Sara is a natural with her hands it would wonderful if she had a mentor like you. I will see if she will get hooked on your channel. Thank you again!!!

Nice job , Also if you could find a piece of card board or better yet some plywood to lay on the ground where your working, your knees will thank you for it.

hi Sam, whenever i do rear disk brakes, i water hose the assembly clean, use a flat file to refresh the surfaces of the disk while still mounted and on drive, like it is being machined. and when compressing the piston home, place a used pad to protect the piston. the grease is actually only used to refresh the sliding pins after it is cleaned . in new cars, you will never see grease anywhere around the pads. dont listen to those ding dongs in videos.. and most of all, for safty, the bolts needs to be torque to specs.

As a almost 40 year old your dad is on point with that cardboard, it won't take long working on those stone and you will know, I was like you

Just as a fun fact for you , actualy break pad grease realy exist , no joke ! The coaster brakes from Sachs/Sram bicycle hub gears have brake pads that are made of steel and require a thin layer of special grease with acid. Of course you can use normal grease, but then the abrasion causes the surface of the brake pads to become clogged and the brake starts to jam. The acid is there to keep the surface of the brake pads clean. Have fun !

Another great Video Samantha. Rare to see you not wearing the trusty work boots. Can I give you one great safer working tip When jacking up a car and putting it on axle stands. Always put the removed wheels under the rockers so if the car falls or axle stands fail it will stop you getting crushed and secondly makes recovery and re-jacking easier You often get copper grease which you apply to the ears of the new pads to prevent squeal

LOVED THE SHOW. AND I ALWAYS ENJOY LEARNING. THANKS FOR SHARING YOU.

Personally, I never like doing drum brakes. Fortunately on my current Jeep they are only used for parking, like the Subaru, so they don't even need adjusting when I swap the disks and pads. I don't like cleaning up and re-using disks, so I always swap them out. Even doing that it's still cheaper than taking it to a shop for just the pads, and I know they have been done properly. I had a bad experience with a shop doing my brakes once and that left me approaching a right angle corner at 70mph in heavy rain when I found I had no brakes. I got brakes on the third pump, but I never let a shop touch my brakes again.

excellent job SAM

Enjoyed your video and your presentation, keep them coming. NO advice here.

Ur grease is for the edges of the pads where they touch the bracket and in between the little brackets and the main bracket to stop rust jacking between the two so it stops the pads sticking ps always grease the center of the disc / rotor where it sits on the axle/ hub makes it easier to remove next time 👍 u have a good mentor in ur dad 👌

My Jeep has the same style E-Brakes. Sometimes I have to tap around the rotor with a hammer to break the rust loose. PA uses heavy salt on our roads also.

You did a pretty job for your first time!

I love the way your father cleaned up those rotors that's exactly what I do , So many people just change them and waste the originals which are the best all the new ones come from China junk. Keep up the good work with the camera you'll be making a nice royalty check like Andrew.

Usually with old brake rotors you can hit them off with a hammer as they like to rust weld themselves on. I don't know about re surfacing the rotors but if they're in decent condition you don't need to touch the rotor just change the pads, check the piston rubber dust seal inside the caliper for any rips and just change the pads and clean and re lube the slide pins. I went abit above and beyond with my cars brakes but that's because I like stuff new, clean and looking nice. I replaced all the piston seals, piston dust seal (they badly needed replacing) and wire wheeled the caliper to make it nice and clean and to clean off all the old brake dust and oxidization, cleaned the surfaces the pads slide on, cleaned out the slide pin canals on the bracket and replaced the rubber boots on the slide pins which also needed replacing badly, all new ceramic brake grease which is extremely important because the wrong grease will destroy all the rubber boots by expanding them because of the petroleum chemical in the grease, replaced all the brake line crush washers, bled the brakes with all new DOT 4 Castrol brake fluid, all new brake rotors and pads. My brakes have never felt this good and was seriously needing replacing. I'm sorry to hear about your baby (your car) it's unlucky you spent money on it only to have it hit and written off. You could still drive it but the damages make it unusable with towing anything so that sucks and I hope the guy that hit you gets arrested. I enjoy your content and sorry for this huge comment!

What an awesome Dad.

Great video! Just a few points. 1.There is no need to remove rust or the ridge on the old rotor. 2. If anyone has added brake fluid since the last pad change, when you push the caliper piston back in, the master cylinder reservoir can get overfilled. I keep a turkey baster in my brake tools to remove the excess. 3. A floor jack needs to be able to roll. Otherwise it pulls the vehicle to the side. 4. The caliper slide pins should also be greased. 5. Keep the videos coming!

Thanks for sharing you brake job. While you were pulling on the torque wrench I was watching that right jack stand wiggle. Next time you are working over gravel (or dirt) it is best to have the jack stands on a solid foundation so they don't tip over. A piece of 2 x 6 or some 3/4 inch plywood will do the trick. I knew a guy who used to service vehicles in the field. He had a set of 4 jack stands with an 10 x 10 inch piece of 1/4 inch plate welded to the feet. This made them very stable regardless of the terrain. Oh, the grease in the brake pad box is for the back of the pad and the guide pins. Otherwise great job. Congratulations, you just save a couple hundred dollars in shop installation costs. Have a great week and what looks like and early spring. Cheers.

Awesome job samantha on the brake job. Now that the job is done it's play time your dog definitely demands that😅

Usually grease the slides and I'll put a very light coating over the thin metal guides. Pro tip if the pads are tight and you can scuff the end of the pad tabs with a grinder to take off the paint coating and make sure they sit freely. Looks like they fit in there fine on this job.

awesome job dudette. remember everybody has a first time at doing a job. keep it up.

Good video Sam, you should tighten your caliper brackets tighter to specs with a torque wrench. That's why you needed a breaker bar to loosen them. You don't want them falling off!

Love your videos Looking forward to your next videos you are very talented keep up the good work

Grease can also be used on the pins that hold your caliper on so they don't rust and become hard to remove with out using a 2ft breaker bar

I have a nice forearm scar from replacing the rear break caliper bolts on my subaru impreza, I really needed a breaker bar!!

You did a very good job with the brakes it’s very good keep up the good work and I will keep watching god bless

Thanks for the upload. Very useful!!!

i think you are an awesome chick ... i love how you dive in and get stuff done and are not afraid to get dirty keep it up sam you are amazing wish more girls had your attitude and drive to learn

Studded snow tires??? Sooooo... YOU'RE the reason we didn't get any snow to speak of in PA. :-)

Would love to see an update on your Dad's tractor!

Good job. Usually you can bleed the brake lines after changing the pads, just a few brake pedal pumps worth.

You're killing it, Samantha! Keep it up! Also, I really miss your long hair.

Such a hansom looking young man!

Well that was fun. Thanks St. Paul.

I learned alot from this video

I love your Dad.

Lina is a good doggo

great job!! Ask your Dad whence that hydraulic floor jack came to him. looks familiar. If it belonged to your great grandfather, then it was one l used countless times. good to see it's still alive and well in the family.

Wow! Another reason to get a needle scaler. Never saw this method before.

Verschleiß-Dicke messen! Some more important tips: Use right torque for all bolts. Check with OEM, which bolts needs to be replaced (micro-verkapselt). Clean extensively all areas, where the pags are moving and then grease these with the special (heat resistant) grease. Hub needs to be glossy, also the area, where it has contavt with the disc (no rust there at all). Caliper (piston) push-back should be possible by hand. Check before level of brake fluid (danger of overflooding). Handbrake needs to be adjusted acc. manual. De-Rusting of a disc is normally not recommended without a lathe.

Just doing a pad slap" will not resolve any pulsation in the brake peddle or the feeling in your butt when braking. This is called warp rotors or "lateral runout" You need a brake lathe to true the rotor to be flat. Typically on rear solid rotors its very hard to do without the proper equipment because the vibration while cutting the rotor will ruin the surface, this is why now rotors are just replaced instead of turned.

bon travail et bonne vidéo

Hi sam good job !!!

Just a thought when working out in the gravel just get an old rug or a piece or carpet to lay on the ground and it’s more comfortable and you can lay your part on it also to help I do this all the time when spraying Break clean I wipe it or blow it out when it wet wiping is better put your doing great

Your dog is the best

Awwwh.... @10:00 , your dog had a great disc/rotor replacement that was brought to you personally!! You should've used that one!! Ha-ha

Good morning Sam and friends. I hope everyone has a great week !

You can use a pretty heavy grinder on disc brakes 80 grit try to make a x pattern it slows down the ability for foreign objects to make straight lines on the disc drum

Nice job 👍👏

great video@

Good jobl thanks for sharing

At some point it would be useful to check any official docs from the car manufacturer about the procedure they recommend. I understand it's cool to power through with guesswork but when the stakes become higher for other projects it can serve to provide the proper foundation of experience that can then be used for guesswork later on.

Hi Sam. Interesting video once again. Couple of things from another DIY er ..the grease is likely for the caliper bolts so not to rust & prevent sliding like they should. Star wheel adjustment likely follows specific steps and lastly the hard to remove bolts likely require torquing to spec along with wheel lug nuts. Wheels will definitely fall off if not correctly torqued. Great to see your Dad's non judgmental and helpful input. 👍👍✌🏻✌🏻❤🐶

Great job dad gave life lesson due what pay when you can be happy like pup said play now play later Peace

Good video

good job on the safety but i would just like to mention when you jack a car and put axel stands in after you take the wheel off slide it under the car it just adds 1 more layer of safety just incase the axel stand fails or tips over because of the uneven surface it is on. but Nice job with the brakes! nice of your dad to show you that you dont need to just buy new parts all the time most things can be repaired/restored.

Good job

Hi Samantha, for your first time, you did an excellent brake job and you will never forget it. I love the way you treat your dog. And I can tail. He likes you when he licked your face. I suppose that was your mom and dad Got tickled when your mom was commenting on your green spots on your clothes you’re like me do you like to get close to your work thank you Samantha enjoyed it❤😊😊 PS you can do it

I should have watched all the way through before commenting as I see you did use a torque wrench which is excellent. However using the impact wrench first will often over tighten the nuts and then when you check them later they will always seem to be at the correct torque when in fact they are overtightened. I use a heavy duty impact wrench to remove the nuts but I tighten them with an underpowered wrench that never tightens them quite enough so that I always get some small movement on the torque wrench as they tighten up to the correct pressure.

Well done.

Any deep gruves scratches you should replace them

Wow still no snow huh? thats a bummer for your sled riding but i would take your weather any day to ours, North Dakota here we got snow in November and we still have snow on the ground it's going to take a long time to melt and they say we are to get 1 to 3 more ins. I think some one for got to tell Mother Nature it's spring now. Lol really enjoy your vids keep them a coming. ps i like that you had safety glasses on. you take care and stay safe........Peace.

Dogs adorable

Good job Sam.. 🚙🍩☕

After you put the rotor on and adjusted the emergency brake shoes, I didn't see you back it off until it was just slightly dragging. That could be a problem if those shoes are too tight.

I've never understood the concerns over that lip around the outside of a rotor or 'brake disc'. In my country (the UK) MOT inspectors are obsessed with it & will routinely fail a car's safety test if they can see or feel a lip. I've had numerous arguments with MOT testers, & will continue to do so until the day I die, because that lip is totally normal & acts as a good indicator. If you clean or grind it off (as the man does in this video) it'll only return when the new pads wear in at the exact same area as the old ones. It's not dangerous in any way, the MOT test in the UK states 'grooved or damaged disc' but this is only a concern when it's within the worn area; the extreme edge is insignificant. It's basically a scam to get people to fit new discs, linked to the fact that, in the UK, MOT test stations also carry out such work!

WoW Sam is a beast I wish if you had spray tube hole rear and spring with W40 to stop the rust and I hope we see some of your dad works in the future. Thanks for the video.

Thanks for showing your discoveries. No technical remarks from me, just something about the fisheye recording: please don’t. ;)

When you have bolt that are to stuck because of rust, just hammer the head of the bolt a couple time, they're gonna be easier to unsrew after that

Great video Sam. Last time I did a brake job was about 40 years ago. By the way, what is the difference between the two air sanders that you used? When you are older you will always remember the days when you and your dad worked together. ❤❤❤

Samantha looks like singer when the camera is at her arms and her ear.

There are a few things that cause sound to come from the brakes. One is worn out brake pads (usually the sensor ie… squealer hits the disc, or the pads are so worn down the pad backing hits the disc. Another cause is vibration. If the disc pads aren’t installed with the hardware that was originally there or replacement hardware they will cause vibration which will translate int sound ie… “noise”! If you feel pulsation in the brakes when stopping either the disc rotors are not true or the lug nut’s weren’t properly torqued down or the caliper slides are sticking and may need lubrication.