Thanks for the videos, going to watch your followup now. Just a quick question, why flush the warmer with fluid rather than just push out the old with compressed air?

@@jalmolky in my opinion, i think considering the length of whats being flushed, I think the fluid is more accurate. Although, you can also use compressed air as well, like after the fluid for example to help escort all the flush out.

How long did you let the car run before you checked the fluid

Hi BeeCee built I couldn’t download the factory service manual from the link could you please forward the same to pranavmenon216@gmail.com

I own a 2018 Altima SV and i just started noticing that my engine never wants to shift and stay in the high rpm and i have sometimes let off the accelerator and it will shift or it will sometimes shift hard. Do you think i have to change the CVT? it has 83,000 miles and i drove it with a donut for about 500 miles, not sure if that does anything. If you can let me know that will be awesome or if anyone has any advice

Thank you! I truly appreciate it 👊

I appreciate it thanks for the comment 🙏

My dealership want do mine because it over 100,000 miles

Awesome! Glad to hear, appreciate the comment!

how many miles did u have on ur car when u drained the fluid? was it the first time u changed it? I heard if you change it after it hasnt been changed in like 100k miles it causes it to slip.

ch ln thank you so much! I truly appreciate that!

Appreciate the comment! 👊

Do you have any idea why I’m getting light smoke from radiator area it appears , but the vehicle is having no warning lights , not running hot But the smoke is like it’s over heating. It’s not oil. Maybe coolant but it’s done it 2 days in a row in the afternoon around 3:30pm But not otw to work when its still cold out and not much traffic making me have to stop. But otw home, about halfway home after driving about 15min it started getting smoke from under the hood @ the lights. So I made sure I caught the lights and got home. It actually started Friday the 1st time Ever. So I filled the radiator and some overfill reservoir. Radiator was always full whenever I’d Check it like it didn’t lose any , it had been about 6mo & I started getting this feeling that I need to check my fluids and like 2 days later was Friday the 1st day it smoked , so when I checked I had let the radiator get way too low , it took almost the full of antifreeze, about 2/3 of the bottle. I also got a new reservoir cap because it had a crack when I took it off to add some to overfill, filled it & everything seemed good. So I drove to work Monday Then otw home it started smoking Seemed to be running smooth & fine No warning lights nor running hot So I bought a new radiator cap. Again everything seemed fine Drove to work all good But then driving home it did it again. I feel like I can sleep radiator fluid And a little bit of a burnt smell in the air A strange smell but not strong @ all It’s very slight smells. It not thermostat or else it would run hot. Any ideas Of what it Maybe ? Thanks

@@CSDonohue11 pinhole leak

Aurelio Salazar thank you! But yes, the Altima Coupe is really a 4th Gen. Altima setup, and differs from the 5th Gen. and doesn’t have an overflow plug. Glad you got it knocked out though!

Appreciate the comment man! 🙏

Thank you I appreciate the comment!!

when it asks for transmission oil it gives you a sound like metal below because mine I think the transmission screwed up confirm if changing the oil or adding it removes what makes it skid

👍👍

I appreciate the comment!! Thank you!

Appreciate the comment 🙏

Glad it helped! Good like with the job!

Thank you! I appreciate the comment!!

Awesome man! Thanks for the comment, glad it helped.

Awesome! Thanks for the comment.

I definitely appreciate that! 🙏🙏

Awesome man good luck!

How much did you get it for?

Mine is a 2013 and came with 106 118 now.

How did it work by changing it. Does it run better??

My 2017 Altima only has 31k and it's 2024. I guess I will wait another 20k or so to change the fluid. I bought fluid from Nissan dealer and they said 6 quarts and it was $24 a quart from them. Dealer wants $480 to change the fluid. Ridiculous

Better than Nissan atf fluid???

Thank you for the comment 🙏🙏

Mike P glad it helped!

Good to hear, glad it helped man!

Any issues with using universal fluid? Heard that Nissan n3 is the only way to go

@@bologna_soup I’ve used valvoline synthetic universal cvt fluid and have had no problems .I flushed my cvt just like in video except I didn’t disconnect fluid lines .I drained out cvt fluid ,then added 6 quarts ,warmed up tranny went through gears then opened over flow plug n done like in video .I done the procedure once and drove it about a hr then repeated again and my cvt fluid is clear and cvt shifts good with no problems .the guy who made this video saved me a lot of money by making a diy video

@@johnlowery8942 so do u have to open the over flow plug with the car running? Or the car have to be off?

@@eltrompudo26 car has to be running when u remove over flow plug.

Appreciate the comment man! Good luck with the job 🙏

kylo Solo awesome man! I appreciate it! Good luck with the fluid change!

Hey what’s up man, I appreciate your input! I hear ya on the pan, not going to say I disagree. In my opinion, dropping the pan would be situational, and on a case by case basis. I opted not too, but yea it couldn’t hurt considering the mileage of this particular car in the video (plan too on next flush). Personally, I would have been way more motivated to drop the pan if it were leaking, which it is not. But if you are doing this at 30K, 60k, really even 90K depending on the prior maintenance, you can get away with only a fluid change and/or flush. I would say drop the pan and incorporate the filter, etc. into this job @ the 90k interval or 120K, or if the pan is leaking of course. Just my 0.02 lol.

@@TheOriginalBeeCee I totally hear you man. Dropping the pan is also more time consuming. Probably not always necessary, but CVTs make me paranoid. They're like a bipolar gf that goes from kissing your ass to killing your ass. Lol

@@captaincook807 lmao...love it, best CVT analogy ever haha

Damn that’s unfortunate! Im actually surprised...although it should ideally be replaced every time, I would have thought it could have withstood more than one use. I know they don’t always get replaced when people do oil changes with these Nissan style crush washers which utilizes the same washer, and they seem to hold up. I always keep some on hand for oil changes, so if you have them for that, you’ll always have them for the trans drain plug as well!

Thank you! I definitely appreciate the comment!

Agreed

Not going to say I disagree. In my opinion, dropping the pan would be situational, and on a case by case basis. I opted not too, but it couldn’t hurt considering the mileage of this particular car in the video (plan too on next flush). Personally, I would be way more motivated to drop the pan if it were leaking, which it is not. But if you are doing this at 30K, 60k, really even 90K depending on the prior maintenance, you really only need to do the fluid change and/or flush. I would say drop the pan and incorporate the filter, etc. into this job @ the 90k interval or 120K. My $0.02. But I included the process in the second video link in the description.

They don’t have filters

@@marckarbowski1261🤦‍♂️ ignorance is bliss . Carry on. ✌🏻

@@GIGABACHI rogues don’t .

Donald Larkins lol most definitely man! Im glad it helped tho man 👊

Donald Larkins A new transmission will cost you thousands of bucks😡 Many Nissan ended up being sold to junkyard because of this

Just put a brand new transmission in mine at 45000 miles 2016

Roger Cluck awesome man! Good luck!

Thanks man! Likewise! Appreciate it 👊👊

Lol i appreciate it!

@ 8:32

Do not use Nissan's cvt fluid. It's garbage and the root cause of failure. Go Amsoil cvt.

Hey whats up man. Appreciate the comment. But check out my new CVT video, it should help give you some insight on that. Top pinned comment and the link is also in the description.

Appreciate it! The car needs to be warmed up according to the Nissan FSM when draining the trans fluid. Needs to be drained between 95F-113F, I typically drain right at 104F. Check out my updated CVT Fluid video (link in description), full CVT service including filters exactly to the FSM specifications, and I included how to monitor the CVT Fluid Temperature.

Some good suggestions. I utilized the dipstick as just an extra measure of fluid measurement. Not necessary, just a good extra peace of mind. As I mentioned in the video and in other comments, the overflow is true method for fluid level adjustment. And monitoring the CVT fluid level with an OBD device is definitely best practice for draining and adjustment. However, as outlined in the FSM (linked in description), the car should be idling when adjusting at overflow. There is enough play room within the temperature range (95-113 F) for it to be idling while adjusting, as suggested by Nissan. I just replaced filters and did another change (video on the way), and I cracked overflow open @ idle at 104, and it was still @ 104 F when completed.

Dont touch it till 65k miles

@ 32:20

Hey whats up man. No, its not vital, although a good idea, definitely something to consider depending on the mileage of the fluid change. But keep in mind that its not a “coolant” line tho, but CVT transmission fluid is running thru those two lines.

I would suggest replacing filters if you are @ 100K or more. As for the cooler flush, it isn’t “necessary”, but definitely couldn’t hurt!

You can just change the fluid. I was just do a spill & fill @ 30K.

Appreciate it! I don’t though. I’ve had a few people ask that though, so I think is something I will definitely be doing in the near future! I actually have a newer more in-depth CVT fluid video I made after this, should check that one out too! Its top pinned comment & in description.

Thank you! And yes it should be

Farrukh Hasan I would suggest what I outlined in the video. Get 5 quarts, utilize all 5 quarts, then use the overflow drain plug to drain any excess fluid, like I outlined in the video.

Hey hows it going man. Truly hard to say of course, generally speaking once issues arise with a transmission, usually it’s already to a point where fluid changes are just last resort fix attempts that usually don’t actually resolve the actual issue. Thats not say that it couldn’t help either, because there are instances where a simple fluid change could help sounds/small issues, but from my experience typically when tranny problems arise its mechanical and it’s too late for fluid changes. But hey, if you’re willing to do it yourself, you really would only be investing about $70 in fluid and some time, and there is always that chance it could resolve you issue!

My Nissan altima transmission has been really hot. Outsi. Change the fluid now it's fine.

Yes, CVT is an automatic transmission design.

Yes I would definitely do it….you wanna do it @ 95-113 degrees F, if you have access to an OBD scanner or a Bluetooth OBD device you can monitor the temperature so you know when you’re at temperature.

yea it’s just the electric steering, mine does it too.

Exactly what I thought when seeing this vid lol

Appreciate it! 🙏

To be honest, thats lazy repair work in my honest opinion. Part of completing a fluid leak repair is ensuring all the old leaked fluid is cleaned up. This is important for multiple reasons...for easy identification to ensure the leak is actually repaired (or not), so fluid doesn’t continue to appear to be leaking even if it is fixed, and/or like in your case the old fluid heating up creating a smell, etc. Hard to say how long it will take, because it really depends on how much fluid there is and how bad it is. But the fact that your smelling it leads me to believe that is must be pretty messy for you to continually smell it. It truly should be cleaned off, and if you paid for the repair, which I’m sure was quite expensive if you did, I would make them clean it up. Thats truly unacceptable, especially for what dealers charge for the labor. Really all that needs to be done is a nice spray down and wipe with some brake cleaner and some rags/towels. You can do this yourself honestly. But if you paid for that repair, you should never have to go back over there work and clean up after them. Even if you didn’t pay, still truly unacceptable from a dealer, or any “shop” for that matter.

When engine is hot and you open hood to check engine area, is the smell of burned oil odor in the air. Yes oil is on something hot and stinking-burning off. You can do this the cheap way.....Go to dollar store and buy 1 or 2 cans of $1.00 oven cleaner. Spray this all around the area where you think oil might be burning. You do not have to do this on a hot engine....cold will work out just fine. Leave along for five minutes or so. Then take garden water hose and wash off area with water. Use care...do not get any plug connectors wet. This may help..hope so. Anyway just normal driving will eventually but off excess oil and you should be OK.

I know others have used it with success. Amsoil is obviously good fluid so I think you would be ok, but personally I’m typically an OE fluid person.

Sounds like the car is going into fail safe mode automatically to protect the engine and transmission. Could be a number of issues as simple as a bad sensor needing to be replaced for cheap. All the way to a pump failure or a bad transmission itself. What did the dealer or mechanic say about the issue?

That’s a lot of fluid . 3.5 qts X 3 = 11 qts and at 25 dollars a qt that’s 275 worth of fluid

Not everyone is going to get the same amount out. Might be close to this, might be more, might be less. Its just letting out extra fluid, it’s possible i had a little more extra than you. But you need to have the car jacked up evenly, all 4 corners on lift or jackstands.

Good! Been absolutely fine. You can check my original owner review on this car on my channel. I did this fluid change @ roughly 100K, then i did another one @ 120K, and its about to be @ 150K and I’m going to be doing another one.

I am sorry I didn’t finished my question, after driving my car for two hours I feel like it’s lose power and I feel that it has to do with the transmission, what do you think. BeeCee also, why when I connect the battery the alarm goes off. Thank you for any feedback

Ernesto Moreno hey whats up man. I believe your correct, the ‘12 Sentra doesn’t have the fluid warmer. And yup you have a dipstick for fluid level verification. That’s pretty hard to troubleshoot without seeing the car though, could very well be the transmission. But there are issues that could cause those symptoms as well. Is the check engine light on?

BeeCee Built thank you for responding so quick. Yes the engine light is on. I took it to ORielly and they scanned for me, they gave me the codes but I don’t have them with me at this moment. I know one of the them has to do with battery res placement and the other code has to do with the transmission, they suggest to refill transmission fluid. Also I checked the CVT fluid and looks clean to me. I really enjoyed your videos amazing job, thank you again for responding so quick. Have a great day

Ernesto Moreno got ya! If you can get the engine codes, I may be able to shed some more light on them and potentially the issue. Replacing the CVT fluid wouldn’t be a bad idea though, especially if it has more than 60K on it and the fluid is original. Really by this point being its a 2012 the fluid should be replaced if its original regardless. Doesn’t necessarily mean its going to fix your problem, although it would probably be the cheapest place to start and you can evaluate from there!

BeeCee Built Awesome, you right that probably won’t fix the problem but I would start fri there, I would definitely follow your advice. Thank you again BeeCee. You are awesome

Thats very interesting. Seems as though that code is associated with a transmission judder (shake, shudder, vibration). There’s actually a Service Bulletin for that code for these cars: static.nhtsa.gov/odi/tsbs/2016/SB-10075090-5448.pdf Looks like it can get pretty serious as far as the repair, ranging from replacing the valve body, or the whole transmission, etc. If it’s been fine, I would almost be inclined to say leave it alone considering the possible severity of the issue.

I would potentially do the cooler if the fluid has been prolong or not changed regularly. Should ideally be changed every 30k, i outlined my opinion on intervals and all that in my newer CVT video. And I didn’t come across any procedures for oil cooler in FSM unfortunately

RawOne911 check out 8:08 in the video

Hopefully it stays that way!

me too, im spoided though, I have a 6 foot pit in the garage AND it has leveling pads, should I make a video?

@@andyp3834 that would be awesome. A brake fluid or differential flush with be awesome too

bella 123 from the sounds of it, it might be a bit past that point unfortunately.

Two possible problems...First make sure that all hoses are attached and are not cracked. A vacuum hose could be leaking causing this problem. Second, yes, you could have a torque converter hanging up. When you come to a complete stop, is your engine shutting off. Verify by, before coming to a compete stop, shift into neutral. Does engine now keep on running? If so you probably have bad torque converter. Go to a good transmission shop ( a least 3 shops), let them drive car and give you their report. This should not cost you anything as you are only getting an opinion. At this point, a fluid change will probably not correct your problem. Best to you. I am not a professional mechanic, just an old 82 year old man that is self taught but do have a good mechanical knowledge, better than most hot shot mechanics in my opinion.

@ 9:33

Not at all. The flushing was done through rubber hoses that are angled down. They got an aluminum block that will not hold liquid more than a few drops. Let it evaporate a few minutes and hook back up. The few drops that might be left in system will evaporate out through the transmission evaporator line (breather line)

@ 32:19 - 32:23

There is a cartridge filter too that needs to be replaced . Whole damm job is about $300 even if you decide to do it your self .let alone dealer price tag !!! Fuel savings straight out the window . Wont buy car with CVT again ! Cant wait to get rid of my 2016 altima !

Its not made for the car, so therefore it won’t read “correctly”, as in, it won’t align with the markings on the dipstick. The dipstick is from a 4th gen Altima. It doesn’t end up being the correct length on the 5th gen Altima. But honestly you don’t truly need to utilize a dipstick anyway, just a good extra measure for some additional peace of mind. The goal of the dipstick was to get a similar reading on the dipstick before&after (which I did), not ensure it was in the correct range indicated on the dipstick.

Fred Williams hey whats man. I honestly can’t say 100 percent as I’ve yet to do one. But in my opinion I would definitely think its gonna be similar if not almost the same.

Idk what part number you’re referring too? I didn’t provide any part number for the dipstick. And check the top pinned comment, I replaced the filters in that video and went over all my recommendations on what and when to change.

@@TheOriginalBeeCee sorry man..you was talking about the washer and plug..yes you r right thanks for reply

I hate to be the bearer of bad news, but it doesn’t sound good from what you’re explaining, and I doubt a fluid change is going to help you at this point. I would maybe see if you can find someone with an OBD Scanner that’s capable of pulling TCM codes, to see if you have any transmission fault codes.

@@TheOriginalBeeCee alright I'll get it checked out. Thanks alot

Appreciate it thank you 🙏

That’s kind of a subjective question, as I’ve seen a variety of prices for this job, but most likely around $300.

I live In California have 2018 Altima cost me $200

I’ve answered this in other comments….but I’ll insert my answer from my other replies. Nobody can really accurately answer that question without a full overview of the transmission. But in my opinion….You would probably be ok, but you’re right on the fence with mileage. But…Transmission fluid that hasn’t been changed after 120k-125K (even really 100K depending on the vehicle) can be risky changing. Especially from a mechanic perspective, it’s even more of a risk. changing/not changing transmission fluid if its been prolonged is a touchy and opinionated subject. But I’ll give you my opinion on it. I feel like in most cases, especially if there are no issues or signs of damage (I.E. the trans is functioning as it should), then there shouldn’t be any issues changing the fluid, even if its been 100K. But when its gotten to 120k-125k, especially if the car is 5+ years old, there is a greater chance of contaminants/particles being in the transmission that actually benefit it at that point. In an older and/or worn-out transmission, these particles of wear can “benefit” the transmission with the friction it creates and temporarily "seal" parts of the trans. In this case, if the fluid is flushed or replaced and these particles are flushed out, the transmission may start slipping, slipping worse (if slipping prior), or shifting differently. I do think there is way more of a chance of that being an issue if the fluid is ‘flushed’, not just a spill and fill...which is essentially what’s being done here. But basically, the longer the fluid replacement has been prolonged, the greater the chance of transmission slipping if the fluid is replaced. Many shops won’t perform a fluid change after 120K. But again, I think you having issues from a fluid replacement is way more likely in the transmission is experiencing issues prior to the fluid change.

Yes and yes!

Yes, 2013 Nissan Altima uses NS-3 CVT fluid. Make sure the Valvoline CVT fluid has NS-3 listed on the back of bottle as I have a few bottles from the old inventory from 5 years ago that only has NS-2 listed.

engine running when removing overflow bolt & CVT fluid temp between 95-113F.