Thank you for that! I thought the same thing with every video I watched it made it seem more and more difficult. It is way easier than it seems if you are somewhat electrically inclined.

The negative is just a ground, the positive goes to the positive on the battery

The yellow wire is for the power for the LOC so I have it in with the power wire going into the amp. When I started researching that's what I found was the best thing to do. You could certainly run another wire to the battery but with the amp wiring kit it just made more sense to tap into the power that was already there. Hope this helps!

Does your amp stay on all the time? Where do you have the remote connection?

@@antoniorosaPR it does not, the LOC supplies a remote wire so when the LOC receives signal from the speaker wire it acts as a remote and turns the amp on. I have an updated video that shows a little more in depth where I have everything going. Hopefully that helps!

Thanks for the comment, the line output converter will not directly connect to the subs. It is meant to take what your radio puts out and change it to what the amp needs to power the subs. If you are using your factory radio you will need to hook into a speaker wire and connect the line output converter to that, then run those wires to the amp and your subwoofers off the amp. If you're running an aftermarket radio it is much easier as you can run RCA cables directly from the head unit to the amp and the line output converter is not needed. Hope this answers your question, I know its a bit of a tricky process!

Thanks for the comment, I wish I could post a picture directly to the comment but it won't allow it. In the video @ 3:40 I have my camera on the factory sub wires going into the LOC. It is nothing fancy honestly just used some wire connectors and covered them with electrical tape. The LOC has a positive and negative for the L/R so I connected the factory sub wires consistently to that. Since the factory sub was a dual voice coil it did not make a difference which two wires I placed in the Left or Right configuration so long as it was consistent with the positive negative. Hope this helps!

@@NeesesWorkshop are the striped wires negative?

Yes I did, if you need a reference you can check out my updated video I posted a few weeks ago I made sure to show where all that was connected

@@NeesesWorkshop in my 2011 f150 I’m trying to use a loc off the factory sub harness I cut it at the plug for the old sub I have a +purple/green, -green/white and a +purple\green and -gray what wires from the loc do I need to match to these

@@NeesesWorkshop the amp turns on when I connect them but want transmit sound to the subs

@@brodytrump9658 did your factory sub have the amp connected to it? Or was it just the sub under your seat? I had just the sub so it sounds like I had different colors. Let me see if I can find a diagram that shows those colors, I know I’ve heard of those being related to the sub it’s just been a while since I’ve read into it.

@@NeesesWorkshop it’s alright man I figured it out last night thank you tho

I grounded on the rear bolt mount for the factory subwoofer that is right below the seat where the carpet is cut out. Unfortunately with the box I have the seat will touch the subwoofer. I plan to get another box that is preferably downward firing or build one that is lower profile to keep it further from the seat. I have a towel that I use to keep the rear seat elevated enough to keep it off the sub since my dogs are the only ones that are back there normally. Hope that helps!

Yes I have the factory Sony navigation sound system

Hi Travis, I searched the forums and found this link that was helpful ( www.f150forum.com/f30/2013-crew-cab-tap-into-factory-sub-wiring-263845/ ). I also called Crutchfield to ask the same thing as I was curious, the tech told me that so long as the L/R was consistent from the LOC to the amp and subs that it wouldn't make a difference. They are pretty helpful when it comes to install and I called them while installing mine to ensure I did everything correct, definitely recommend.

If you're referring to the remote power from the amp I have it coming from the blue wire on the LOC that is on the same side as the RCA cables. You can see this at around 3:30-3:40 in the video if you want the visual reference. I know it seems weird to not have it going directly to the head unit which is what I was used to but it is supposed to get the "remote" signal from the speaker wire. Hope this helps!

I believe so, I have not done that before so I am not very familiar with that way of doing it.

Thanks for the comment, I ended up putting it directly behind the seat. I need to mount it properly but where it is it does not move much more than an inch or two in any given direction since its contained by the back of the rear seats.

Hi JRM, I did not have to connect anything behind the radio. You get a Line Output Converter like this one ( amzn.to/3L4IOXP ), you connect the LOC wires to the sub wire then connect the RCA's to the other side of the LOC and to the amp from there. Just make sure you don't mix up L/R from the LOC to the amp.

@@NeesesWorkshophow can you tell the left positive and right positive and negative on the factory subwoofer cable

Sorry for the delayed response, I spoke with Crutchfield when I was doing this install because I wanted to make sure I was not messing up the L/R and they told me it did not matter so long as I was consistent with the L/R wires from where the factory sub wires connected to the LOC then to the new amp/sub. If you're having confusion on that I would definitely give their support line a call as they are very helpful

What wire did you splice into with the yellow wire on the LOC or did you just plug it directly into the remote wire on the amp

Thanks for the comment, the amp I have I picked out specifically for this sub. This amp would not be enough to push two 12's. You can certainly upgrade from the factory sub/amp to a higher powered amp and two 12's. Once you have your subs you want in mind you'll want to check for amps that can handle the "Watts RMS" of the subs @ 2 or 4 ohms (which ever the subs are as it can get complicated). If you get confused I would highly recommend calling Crutchfield's support team and asking for direction on a good sub/amp combo so you don't over or under power them as I have done that before and buying a second amp sucks when you could have done it right the first time.

Where is ur ground wire connected to

@@manuelgrajeda2924 I have mine connected to the rear mount for the factory sub that is right under the seat. There is a small section where the carpet is cut out in a square and one bolt in the middle that was not going to be used anymore so I went with that.

It does not, thankfully there is enough room for decent airflow to it. Do you have the same one behind the seat? if so it could be over working or there just isn't enough air flow to it.

Sorry for the delayed response, since there was a factory sub I did not have to run a remote wire to the factory head unit. I took the remote wire from the LOC and used that for the amp. I'm not sure if all LOC's have that but the one I used does. Hope that helps, if you have any more questions I'll do my best to answer.

I would check all your power and ground connections for the amp and the settings. If the connections aren't good that could cause it and if your settings are too high for the amp to handle it could cause it to overheat quickly. Those are the two easiest I can think of to check. Hope this helps.

Most likely a bad ground