I wished I had a stand or someone to hold the camera. It could have been better. But at least it's enough information to get in there and take care of things. Good luck!

Update: Finished and works better than before. Thanks for the video. A final add I’d like to say is learning how to pressurize the fuel pump before starting. If not, it will not start back up. Instructions: Turn key to on for at-least 2 minutes and the fuel pump will do its job priming. Than turn the key till it starts. First turn key and hold May take over 15 seconds but, it will start. Than inspect for leaks. Thank you again for doing this job mostly one handed so you can show us your knowledge. High-five. Money well saved.

@@jeffreyrapadas2143 Awesome. So glad it helped you out. And thank you for that valuable information.

lol. Believe me I was about to that point too. 🔥

I tuned my truck and the same 2 codes showed up. Did replacing the injectors solve the problem?

Can you let me know how that turned out for you?? Got the same codes and same lifters went bad. Push rod was fine, now I'm thinking I should have replaced the injectors. #7 was soaked when I pulled it.

Hey did that fix it for you? I’m going through the same exact thing right now with just with cylinder 2.

Valve or leaky head gasket? That sucks. I’m sorry you’re having trouble. Have you moved the #3 coil pack to a diffent cylinder to see if the problem remains on 3? If it follows the coil it’s probably the coil pack. I’ve seen new ones have issues.

@@kensteckelberg7013 I have not tried that but I will now that you mention, it’s worth a try at this point I’ve ran out of options. Thanks!

@@almoreno8506 try a compression test on cylinder 3

grounds keeper Willy , it’s really quite concerning that these trucks have cheap fuel injectors. I’ve owned cars that cost 1/10th the price of these trucks that I sell with well over 100K miles with zero fuel injector problems. What a joke.

It was an iPhone. It was a last minute decision to do a vid. Just trying to help others so they had more than I did for guidance.

The dealer. But they ended up being wrong.

Noah Ray Sanders that’s good. Mine didn’t come with the white grommets. So i reused the old ones.

May need to look at your HP fuel pump, which is under the manifold. Or possible leaking injectors.

Did it fix the issue?

My 2016 Suburban had a misfire condition as well and I was CERTAIN it was the usual culprit, the AFM lifter(s). Turns out it was injectors on 3 and 5. Seems like it's becoming as common a problem as the lifters.

Not sure why some of you are having troubles here. Yes they are in there tight. But to note, you cannot pull all 4 out in an upward motion. There’s just too much resistance. I placed a very large, very thick, like pry bar sized screw driver at the very front edge of the fuel rail and using leverage slowly pushed upwards to carefully get the first injector to start lifting out. Then I moved the screwdriver back a little moving toward the middle of the fuel rail prying up and making small movements as I went along. Then I’d start at the front again. You’ll notice that the rails will become increasingly easier to lift upwards as they start to break free. It’s just small movements and a little patience and they will come out. Just make sure you remove the big bolts holding the rails in first. 🤪. I had no instruction and I got both sides out with very little problem. Work from the front of the rail to the back prying up evenly. Don’t get the front side out too much further than the back of the rail or you’ll be putting pressure on the injectors. Pry up and keep the rail as even as possible as you pry upwards. Hope this helps. I couldn’t hold my phone and do it so I can only explain.

You have to buy the kit to remove them properly. The kit to remove and replace is about 400.00

Bubba Gordon who’s got $400 for a kit? I got mine out with no issues. I guess for those who are having troubles it would make it easier. But I got them out fine.

i have the kit and it is useless for stuck injectors, i thought the same thing

Use a pry bar and gently work the rails back and forth while pulling up until they come out

Yes, there are low and high flow rate types. You have to take the number off of your injector and call a GM dealer and ask which rate yours are. I think there may be a chart online too you can reference with. I’ve heard that either works but it may cause some performance issues. Just try and get the right one and you’ll be fine.

Gilbert Roup , these were reconditioned and the O-rings we’re pre-installed and new. I didn’t have to size anything and they installed really easy. No leaks, no issues. My truck has ran great and I’ve put about 10k miles on it since I replaced the injectors.

Ken Steckelberg thanks, I have one in my shop now, I have to replace number 6 injector, couldn’t get the tail off so I got the otc removal tool coming, this is my first time doing one of these, your video was very helpful, thanks

Gilbert, my pleasure. I couldn’t find a video so I figured I’d do one and just go for it. I wish I had a little better videoing but hard to work and hold camera. Hopefully was enough to help out. Thanks for the question.

I was blown away that I had no codes. My truck was running like crap and never got a check engine light. The dealer told me number 2 and 3 were misfiring. That’s how i found out.

Sorry I just saw this. I did not replace them and had zero issues. Plus they still looked viable and not compressed or worn.

Yes! There are different flow rates. You want to make sure you're using the correct injector for your vehicle.

I used a really long, thick screwdriver that was about like a pry bar. Just pry up end to end and slowly work the injectors out.

They’re a compression fitting. I reinstalled mine, did an even torque on them but not too tight and I put the fuel pump fuse back in and turned on the key. Didn’t see any leaks. Make sure you take the tape off your manifold or the intake will suck it in. I think it’s a good way to sell parts. And maybe some have had leaks. I didn’t have any issue replacing the existing hard lines.

@@kensteckelberg7013 Thanks for reply, and the tip on intake! I will give it a try, they are also expensive...

@@kensteckelberg7013 Just reinstall the original lines. Put fuse back in and turned key on... No leaks observed. Did you crank the motor at all? Or is turning ignition to on position enough to fill the fuel lines?? Thanks again for your help.

DPL 26 it turns on that high pressure fuel pump which pressurizes the lines. So i assumes that’s good enough to check for leaks.

I had also seen that video but I kinda figured just to re install the original fuel lines back on

I’m not sure what you mean? I didn’t program anything. Just installed the new injectors. Unless you’re saying I missed something. I know my BMW you have to code the injectors. But I guess I’m not sure on the GM trucks.

Yes. I don’t think I even has an injector problem to begin with. The dealer led me on a wild goose chase. It ended up being the number 2 spark plug causing the misfires and surging. Changed it out and the truck has ran perfect. 👍. I hope you’re able to get yours fixed up.

@@kensteckelberg7013 Thanks for the information, I will go down that path first. Cheers

Yes i did mention that in the comments. Mine looked pristine and i tested them before I put the manifold back on. I doubt I’d reuse them a 3rd time if i had to disassemble, but I’ve had no issues with leaks. I’m not telling anyone to reuse these since they supply fuel. But it’s what I did and so far so good.

Ken Steckelberg thanks for the feedback !

I used a really long, really thick screwdriver. A little smaller than a pry bar. I just lifted slowly, going from end to end of the rail. Just small movements until it started to lift out. I didn’t use a puller.

Jonathan Ceja, I used a long screwdriver and just slowly pushed up on the end closest to the front of the truck. As it started to move I just went further back prying up little at a time until it released all the way. Hope that helps.

@@kensteckelberg7013 Same issue here. Cant get this rail to release. Hard to find a good spot to apply leverage on the rail.

R P it’s a little tricky. Just small upward but firm movements and it will slowly start to release.

@@kensteckelberg7013 Got it! Thanks for the video

I bought factory refurbs.

Actually got them on eBay.

Ken Steckelberg another question did you remove the fuel pump fuse or disconnect the battery?

e hope, I pulled the fuse and then turned the engine over a couple times to relieve the pressure. I had no issues with fuel squirting when I disconnected the fuel lines.

My 2016 Suburban lost injectors 3 and 5 at 65,000 miles. Mechanic changed them out, but just the two bad ones. Nice to know I'll be able to do the others myself when they go, doesn't look too bad.

Awesome! That's great news for you. My dealer wouldn't cover anything. Even though it's known these trucks have or had injector problems. The government bails these big Car makers out of the hole and that's what we get in return. The Shaft. They used our tax dollars to save them and they continue to nickel and dime us to death. Having the ability to turn your own wrenches is key in these situations. Like you, I'd rather not do it, but I also didn't want to pay $2k for new injectors. Sweet deal. :)

I’ve had no trouble. They are GM injectors that were refurbished. So far so good.

@@kensteckelberg7013 Can you send me the link where you buy on ebay

By the way thank you so much for your video Is gonna Help me so much

*187 unfortunately I’m not seeing them on there now. It was a few months ago. Just keep your eyes out for your year and engine and do frequent searches. You’ll find a deal. Considering GM sells them for $160+ each, you’ll find a way better deal on eBay. If you have any questions feel free to ask. Thanks!

@@kensteckelberg7013 Thanks man I don't know what to do to buy a new injector from GM Or ebay.

natorious76, a couple people have been able to talk their dealers into it. But if they don’t cover them, replace them on your own. Not too bad to do.

Just bought my 2016 gmc 1500 Denali, 1 went out then 2 weeks later 5 goes out the first time it was $280 when the 5th went out they covered it and gave me a loaner for a few days while they fixed it. Apply lil pressure they most likely will cover it

Jesus Reyes you just said you did a DOD delete and number 6 is still misfiring? How’d you fix it then?

@@kensteckelberg7013 still not fixed. I am thinking this one might have been the injector since I only replaced #7 injector. Sometime this week I will be replacing the injector and I will let you guys know if that was the case. The funny thing is on idle and low rmps my truck doesn't misfire only on high RMPs. That's when the check light engine and traction control turn on and blink. After driving for a about 3 miles it goes back to normal and the engine light and traction control turn off and truck drives fine until it reachers high rmps again (about 4k rmps or higher)

@@eckounltd956 find a fix?

@@bradq769 yeah it was the injector after all.

@@eckounltd956 right on I just ordered one. Easy like video says?

Sorry. There were no videos on this procedure so I did this last minute. Didn’t have a second person or a gimble. It’s got some good info though. Sorry about the movement. 🤷🏼‍♂️

Yeah? Well too late. I put a real light coat of oil on them. I was worried about the o’ring grabbing and twisting or binding when I re-installed. So far and it’s been a few months, have worked great with no problems.

When I made this video there were zero videos on this process. There is a lot of helpful info about it. I had no way to film and remove the rails at the same time. Other than that, you’re welcome.

Also, read the comments. It’s explained in detail there.

TheTurbomopar I believe they are talking about the secondary lines from the pump that feeds into the rails. Probably because they are a compression style fitting.