You are welcome, glad I can help.

InstaBlaster...

The valve cover seal (not exactly a gasket, it's a long rubber seal ring thing around the edges) can be re-used most of the the time. No sealant / gasket maker needed either, just re-assemble as is. Yeah man off-season refreshing up is good for the bike ;)

Hey, if your bike has quite high mileage and has issues with iing (rough idle, stalls, etc) a lot of times it’s issues with basic maintenance (e.g. spark plugs need to be changed), or throttle body itself got dirty or out of sync, thus it’s more difficult to hold an idle steadily. My strategy with older bikes for this kind of issues, is always keep up with maintenance and see what improves it. E.g. if your air filter is plugged up and spark plugs are 30k miles old, it can trick you into thinking your engine is on its way out, but reality is, Japanese street bikes are very very robust, as long as you do maintenance per factory spec, chances are it is just fine

Given that the power loss is in running when you pull off the throttle, I would suspect your problem is not from valve clearance and check the basic stuff first --- is the spark plugs still good? (R3 use regular copper plugs with short life span). Is idle somewhat good and consistent? (if not check throttle body bypass air, clean throttle body if possible). Also, make sure air filter is not way old and plugged up. I think it's a far stretch to only have that issue, because of valve clearance.

@@leitian7328 i think so, maybe my spark plug..idling also sometime low and high..last time i alrdy change the plug at 20k km, now its begin to happen again at 40k..maybe i need to replace the plug again..thanks..helps me alot

Look at the manual, I think most people recommend to do the valve check before the spec. The spec is something like 20k miles I think, but some of my friends checked the valve at 10k miles and some are slightly off already

On your swingarm there is a sticker, which lists out the valve specs range. It's in mm and if you convert into inches, I believe it's 4 to 7 thou intake, 8 to 12 exhaust.

the specs of the clearance are in the bottom of the valve bucket.. you can cross check through mirometer but for the 41k it wouldn't make that much difference, as long you follow the maitence sched. and using the specific lube..

If clearance is bigger than spec, you’d need to swap the valve shims under the buckets to thicker shims.

4, per cylinder

As far as I know, loose valves will create more "chatter clatter" noise from the valves. Tight valves can create starting issue if they are over a limit --- however if that happens, it could be already too late and you are on your way to burnt valves. As a result, I would suggest not to rely on symptons, but just rely on keeping track of checking intervals.

@@leitian7328 I have a low idle ...sometimes the bike will shut off while ridding...I don't get an error code on the dash cluster either ..have you ever heard of this problem?

Hi Brian, yes I had one bike which had that problem. In that specific case, it was because the throttle body was very dirty and thus air flow was too restricted. As far as I know, usually that kind of "low idle" issue is caused by too little or imbalanced leakage air, caused by either (1) dirty throttle body; (2) wrongly adjusted throttle stop; (3) dirty or broken idle air valve; (4) throttle bodies out of sync.

You're good for another 18'000km (it's every 40'000km)

@@user-hs2hd7wp9g thanks

凸轮轴和曲轴飞轮的Timing标志（飞轮上一般写T）对齐的正时链条位置就是对的正时 ：）

Hi, if you bike starts and idles well and smoothly, then I don't think your valves are already burnt. It really depends on how the power loss is --- if it is intermittent and random (loss --- no loss --- loss --- and suddenly no loss again), then very likely it's some electrical or fuel delivery issue. If the power loss is constant when you open the throttle WOT --- that is, you bike is always weak at WOT, then likely it's air delivery issue --- air get choked by either a way dirty air filter, or some kind of restriction in intake or exhaust (e.g. throttle plate cannot open all the way, which is rare). So.... air filter could be a culprit if the power loss is always there at WOT. For intermittent power loss then it's much more difficult to diagnose.

@@leitian7328 thanks so much sir . .i will start checking other part..because its sometimes power loss, somethimes not...maybe the other thing i need to check..thank you so much.

if everything is in specs try measuring the thickness of your clutches

Indeed. I was like “phewwwwww” after finding out I didn’t need to adjust them :)

@@leitian7328 Is it hard to change the shims? Do the shims just slide out or do you have to remove the cam shafts to access the buckets and shims?

It’s not difficult, I did it twice already on my other R3’s. You need to take out the cam’s, and the buckets / shimes are right there for you to take out with a magnetic pick up tool.

@@leitian7328 Oh okay, thanks for the info. Have you done the fork seals, yet? I wonder how difficult that is on the R3...Note, I don't have an R3; but I'm thinking to get one. As I do all my own maintenance and repairs, these are the first things I think about when getting a new machine. I hate it when things are super hard to work on.

Hi, here is the good news: the first gen R3 has the most dinosaur like fork design. I could change the fork seals without any special tools, just my pvc home made seal driver thing (of course a seal driver helps). No need to compress springs since cap just comes out by unscrewing. So all in all very easy to work on. Second gen R3 has upside down forks so it’s a little harder, in compressing the springs.