Great video! Just had this exact issue on my 65 plate S3, took it into an independant speicailst who couldn't diagnose the problem (HAD THE CAR FOR TWO WEEKS!), we tried changing the pump, changing the controller, putting new fluid in, cleaning the pump gauze, removing the friction plates from the haldex and the clutch basket to inspect, nothing wrong there. They then tweaked the TC and told me to go test the car, one launch later and a whole load of front wheel spin as per the propshaft and coupler exploded off the car, great, once fixing this we still had the same issues, anything over 2.5k rpm the TC light would go nuts. Spoke to a guy called Matt from haldex repairs and he was amazing, we both came to the conclusion that the haldex was fine as the pump values were as expected therefore showing that the pump was functioning correctly and that the pressure release valve wasn't stuck open as this would've changed the pump learn values. When the car was in the garage I asked them to check the BEVEL/TRANSFER BOX which they came back and said was all fine. SURPRISE SURPRISE THE BEVEL/TRANSFER BOX WAS COMPLETELY F***ED, After over £1000 in garage fees and still getting the same TC flicker on any slight accelleration I took it to another specialist to a guy named Tom, great guy and managed to get me in within a few days with a second hand bevel/transfer box and this instantly fixed my AWD problem! It seems the push fit gear as shown in this video had done exactly the same. All that time I had wasted with another garage that didn't seem like they wanted anything to do with the issue as the best they could come up with was to buy a whole new haldex at a nice £2800 plus fitting etc. NO THANKS. Another "Specialist" that has absoulutely no clue on how to diagnose the issue presented to them and proceeds to bill the customer for their lack of knowledge. Link to the site that helped loads - www.haldexrepairs.co.uk/generation-5-haldex-fault-finding-repair-guide/ MY CAR IS STAGE 1 ECU and STAGE 3 TCU, it's been stated this problem is normally with modified vehicles due to the extra power, which with all the lauches I would agree this really stresses the Bevel/Transfer Box. MY SYMPTOMS: TC Light flickering under any load and massive front wheel spin Once the car was up in the air all 4 wheels would apparently spin (not too sure I trust this as this came from the garage who couldn't daignose it). ALL STARTED WHEN SETTING OFF FOLLOWED BY A HUGE BANG AND THE REAR WHEELS JUDDERING WHEN ACCELERATING, THIS SLOWLY FADED OUT TO BASICALLY NO DRIVE TO THE REAR I noticed this first when launching the car it would feel as if the rear tyres were crinkling or the haldex clutches were slipping, if anyone needs a hand I will be more than happy to try and help, I wish I could've spoke to someone like myself when this happened. TOTAL £1700 down and fixed :( RENOX

I have a theory about how the transfer case (bevel box) was damaged. Many years ago I had an EVO 8 that I was tuning at my friends shop using his DynoJet AWD chassis dyno, and his did not have the option that physically connected the two rollers. After multiple runs I noticed that the front wheels completely stopped before the rear wheels stopped, and I thought oh that is not good (and unfortunately I was right). On the next run only the front wheels spun up, crap! What we learned is when you don't have any type of connection between the two rollers, the only thing that keeps the two rollers spinning together is your drivetrain. When the run is over the operator lets off the gas and presses a button that initiates a roller brake system that is separate for each roller. I learned that there is regular maintenance for the front and rear roller brake systems and apparently that had not been done in some time so the rear roller brake was not working well. When those heavy rollers are spun up that is a lot of energy and if the brakes don't line up the only thing keeping them at the same speed is your car's drivetrain. With the EVO this brake mismatch caused the gears to completely break, whereas yous apparently spun a gear. After this experience I would never put an AWD car on a chassis dyno that did not have the two rollers physically connected. Or put it in 2WD mode and test it that way. SO question did this issue appear after your dyno testing? What about other folks on here claiming to have had the same issue, was your car on a chassis dyno at some point? And did it have connected rollers? I suspect this must be the issue because while some others have had this issue, there are a lot of folks making way over stock power and doing all sorts of drag and road racing, and have not had this issue. So when I saw your dyno video and you specifically mentioned that it does not have the roller belt connecting the two rollers...

Great video Radfox. My repair shop has ordered new bevel box from Germany, they couldn’t find any in the states, new or used. Mine did not have a mechanical failure however. The motor blew 5 weeks ago from crack in oil pan and after test driving the new motor they found a leak from the bevel box. Shards impacted a crack in bevel box.

Fkn legendry video, thankyou!! Explains EVERYTHING, and like you I've fought loss of rear Haldex on tuned cars at the rear end without luck. Endless reports of bevel box issues across the various Haldex car forums, and all sorts of urban myths and special voodoo involved. Just had my new, low km bevel box start making weird pinging/binding noises on the highway, and it seems a lack of oil despite zero leaks was the issue, I had no idea in the MK6 era it stopped sharing oil with the gearbox, so didn't go looking for a level to check. Drained out 150mL or so when it should be 850mL. I reckon my bevel gear has slipped due to heat and friction, so have yet another box to fit, and to keep an eye on. After your GREAT diagnosis, I'll rebuild my old box and keep it as a spare, cause no doubt it will play up down the line. At least it's a relatively easy fit in place, just axles off and a bit of engine rocking. Oh yeah and fit a hose to the breather port so you can refill it much easier in future, I'm adding this to the DSG fluid replacement schedule, and ensure you get the uber special VW fluid too!

Brilliant, well diagnosed and well explained, thank you for taking the time to make this video, it's super helpful and many a man's hairs won't be scratched/ripped out now cos of you...

Hi, this is a really common issue. I run a company call HaldexRepairs.co.uk here in the UK, and I talk to about 1 or 2 people a week who is trying to solve a haldex problem but it is the transfer box slipping just like this example. A really good test which I tell people over the phone is:- Lift the car so the front wheels are off the ground. Get somebody to watch the propshaft. Someone else sits in the car, starts up the engine. Then very gently lift your foot off the brake so the front weeks start to turn. If the propshaft is stationary then its the transfer box. If the propshaft rotates then it is a Haldex issue. Every car with a broken transfer box so far has remapped etc, it is the first question we ask.

I was having the same bang bang bang you are talking about. Swapped the pump and didnt work, swapped the whole rear now no more bang bang bang but the front tires spin like crazy.. when im on the lift all four wheels turn.. well i just put my hands on a used/like new bevel box. Having it done this week. To bad I didnt come accross this video last week!! Great vid !!

I'm on my 3rd bevel box, EXACT same problem as yours. Originally I thought there was a one-way bearing or something behind that gear but when I dissembled it was just as yours looked, all marred up behind that ring gear.

Wow! Nice to see you again! Seems to be a very important info. Thanks!

Great video, bevel box on my 2018 RS3 just blew itself to bits, thankfully my dealership diagnosed it and didn’t give me a run around with any other haldex parts. The not so good part is that it’s roughly 12 000$ CAD to get it fixed …

Amazing video. Thank you so much for taking the time to make it and explain your findings. A very very helpful guide! 👌🏼

Wow! Thanks, dude! I almost start to disassemble Haldex 5 pump. But will check the bevel-box too. Cheers!

Very interesting video! I’ve had some haldex issues and did the VCDS pump primer and adaptations reset, then replaced the pump and last replaced the controller. The newer controller seems to have fixed it but I did see the bevel box fail on a few people during my research. I never understood what the bevel box was but thanks to your video I do now!

brilliant video really helpful to see the Bevel Box in all its glory 👍

Hello, great video. I got an Audi Q3 2015 and was searching for the same symptoms, that same noise that seems to come from rear wheels when it tries to engage. But mine doesn't even need to launch and spin wheels to make that knocking noise, even when I turn left/right at low speed it sometimes produce it. Now I'm going to schedule a time on repair shop and ask them to try a new diagnosis.

Glad to see you’re back bro!

I’ve got a 2019 Golf R. Launches perfectly but everytime I make a tight turn, like out of my driveway, the rear end vibrates. Had the Haldex, diff, propshaft and driveshafts checked and no issues. No one can diagnose it. Any suggestions?

Very accurate information and amazing video. Thank you so much for your guidance.

I’ve got a 2019 Golf R. Launches perfectly but everytime I make a tight turn, like out of my driveway, the rear end vibrates. Had the Haldex, diff, propshaft and driveshafts checked and no issues. No one can diagnose it. Any suggestions? Doesn’t happen straight away. When I start the car and turn out of my driveway, no vibrations. After driving for 5 mins, the car starts vibrating on tight turns.

Great info, thanks so much for digging some deep and sharing. Appreciate it.

Great video mate. Good someone’s put something out there regarding these transfer boxes. I’m having the same issue on my 2014 Mk7 R. How easy was it to get the transfer box out on jack stands ? Did you have to move the subframe. Or can the engine be moved/rocked enough to get it out. Thanks

As a VW tech I can honestly say we haven’t changed many if any bevel boxes. I think the fact that your car is modified is the reason it has failed, which is normal since the vehicle was designed and built for a certain amount of torque. With all modifications all parts after that risk heavier wear. Just consider yourself lucky it wasn’t differential damage I guess. Great video showing exactly the faulty part!

Hi huge question mate for you or any of the other guys on here, had you many warning lights inside the car when it first broke, before the coupler broke?

Great video, thanks. On the RS3 the ring gear is (now) welded to the shaft.

Hell yeah! You're back!

anyone on here who has experimented with welding the gear back on the shaft?

interesting thx. Its hard to be sure by video but the big nut look like if its left hand threads.

Wow I might have finally found a solution. Thanks!

Do you still have the Golf R ? If so, how is it running after all this time Stage 3 ?

Glad to see you back!!!

I am here because my 2012 Mk6 Golf R appears to want to think it is a Gti (front wheel spin when planted, only 45K Kms, recently replaced clutch/ pressure plate with Sachs due to slip in high gears under full throttle, running Bluefin Stg2 tune+Miltek exhaust, dyno just a bit over 210kW/280HP at wheels so not a huge amount over stock). Pretty stupid design, surely to avoid detonation of that ring gear or shaft, the rear haldex could do the releasing if there is excessive force. Was thinking it was haldex pump due to the dozens of threads dedicated to this, will attempt to get under the car and spin the drive shaft to learn what the damage will be to my pocket...Euro parts are insanely expensive in Australia. I wonder if there is an upgraded part for this, seems like this issue even impacts the MK7 so probably not :(

Damn and I was going to take my front diff apart because I was wondering what the damage looks like inside of it, But after watching this video whats the point. Because mine most likely did the same thing

Thank you for sharing this information.

Hi, do you know how much oil this transfer case take when it’s serviced ?

Thanks for your information and good diagnosis mind.❤️

Is the bevel box the transfer box ?

Yessss Glad you’re back dude. Proper beard envy now

Hey bud I’m from Missouri and having an odd/ same situation. I was doing a hard launch/stage 2 dsg with um haldex tune golf r. When I did the launch it took off hard like a normal launch. After that I noticed the awd wasn’t working well but still working. I put the car up on a lift and didn’t notice anything, the driveshaft was moving and the rear wheels. A day later I did another launch and the rear dampener guidbo broke. The dealership replaced the dampener/guidbo in the haldex. I picked up the car from the dealer and noticed the awd still wasn’t building pressure or working. Took it to another dealer and when they launched it the dampener/guidbo broke again along with sheering the dampener off the driveshaft. Something is wrong causing the dampener/guidbo in the haldex to keep breaking during launches. Dealer thinks it’s from doing launches. They keep trying to replace the guidbo but I’m not going to keep paying since it will keep breaking again. It’s summing down to the bevel box or rear diff. The dealers don’t know what’s wrong and I know something is broken. Thanks for any feedback!

Did you get any binding during tight turns? I'm experiencing a similar issue on my MK6 Golf R, and after doing Haldex service, replacing the pump, fluid, and controller, the issue persists. The car was abused by the previous owners with a REVO Stg 2 tune, and now all signs are pointing to this bevel box... so fucking annoying.

Great video! I have the same problem with an Audi S3. Do you have an idea how I can get a new part to replace the damaged one?

Thanks a lot for this video. I have this problem on my RS3. Can you repair the transfer box or needs it need fully replaced? Thanks

Great video bro .......

Hello! What happens if I drive the car with dead haldex pump ? Is there any damage to the haldex or it's just like a FWD car now? Thanks

Been having Haldex traction issues on my STock 2016 A3, dealer first replaced the Haldex pump, said it “works”, barely improved, still lots of wheel spin and traction control light flashes constantly from dig, now back to the dealer and they found another code C111307 awd malfunction, and they said the clutch needs to be replaced since it is slipping. All covered under warranty, but my warranty ends in 1 week lol. So I sure damn hope that fixes it. They said my rear diff is fine, and I don’t believe I have symptoms of a failing rear diff, What would you recommend me to look for if the clutch doesn’t fix it? Great video as well.

Does this part carry over to the 17R? Or did they address this problem and upgrade it?

great music!

Hi, Thanks for the Video. Out of curiosity was your error c111307 07 008 Mechanical Failure?? Because I have the similar issues with you.. only under load i get the error logged but no wheel spins (well at least not yet) i heard the knocking once but my 4 wheel still works in rain etc i only get the above error when i launch it??

Since you changed the bevelbox and got another one,how much play is allowed on the output shaft by turning the triangle adapter to the rear drive shaft? I have a clonking noise and turned the rear drive shaft and noticed there was movement quite a bit.Turning the drive shaft(left to right again and again)would create that clonking noise coming out of the bevelbox.So everytime you go on and off throttle it's clonking because of the play in these gears(rack and pinion). So i guess my play on these gears are to much?

thank you sir !

Where have you been ?!

TIG weld it:))

graet video love your beard