Bill, I'm so happy to hear you say that. Here's why... since a kid, I always had that attitude to BUY AMERICAN vehicles only and that's what I did from my very first car until I finally broke down and bought this Honda. It shows that we should never listen to other people's opinions on things. One reason that I never bought off-shore and especially Honda, is that I "HEARD' that repairs are very costly and not easy for the home fixeruper to perform. So I got the extended warranty on this machine and that was good. But last summer, I needed a brake job. I've done tons of those in my life, all on American built vehicles... Pontiac, Ford, Dodge, Corvair (yeah, you read that right LOL) and was never a problem. On the Pontiac Transport, 1997, a brake job was easy but involved due to "stuff" that had to be removed and such. So I got an estimate from the dealer on this Honda. As I giggled my way out of the shop, suggesting a spacious location for them to store the estimate... ROFL... I watched some vids on how to change brakes, rotors and do a maintenance on the calipers. The dealer wanted to "CHANGE' all of that for a price that was insulting. I think that it was close to $2,000! Thus, the ugly giggling on my way out. After watching a bunch of vids on this model, I was first shocked at how easy this was. I mean, easier than any vehicle I had ever worked on. So I bought all the parts, top of the line pads, rotors, etc. For the calipers, all I needed was new pins (I think it was). The store that I go to, my buddy is the manager there, so he gave me a great discount. If memory serves, I think I spend around $500 or so. I did the job, still amazed at just how insanely easy it was. Even the calipers, to do the maintenance, easy as well. So now I want to change the plugs, but I'm a bit nervous because they are so deep into the engine and I don't want to make a mistake and break them or strip them or anything like that. I'm not sure if I need a special extension and socket that are heavily magnetic... ???? I'll do more research.

@@BlondieSL Good for you Blondie, have no fear. We have GM pick ups, Vette, some Ford ect. But all our SUVs , quads , dirt bikes, Africa Twin, gens, pressure washers ect are Honda. They are just so reliable, and cheap to operate. And most often easier than American made to work on. CRV or Rav was our daughters only choice at 16. Her Rav made it through Uni, and she still loves it. Didn't cost much (water pump, alternator, struts in 300,000km. Which I did, easily. For your CRV KZfaq spark plug job( get proper plugs, they are platinum or iridium if I remember correctly). A handy extendable wand magnet, and socket extension is what I needed. Easiest plugs I've ever changed. Good luck, but you won't need it. Cheers Blondie, from Canada :⁠-⁠)

@@billmcmeekin7909 I learned late in life! LOL If only I had a time machine to go back in life and teach myself to not trust N. American vehicles.... well... except our 1997 Pontiac TransPort that I just loved! Best vehicle I ever had, until this Honda. As for the plugs, they are Iridium. I'm not sure if platinum. But what I'll do, is on the day I go to do this, I'll just take one out, see what is and jump on the motorbike and buy the exact same ones. I don't want to "try" some other "better" plugs when these have been perfect from day-one. LOL While I do have the tools, extension and the right spark plug socket (I think... 9/16 I think (14mm)) I think that I'll buy a new one so that it will be tight on the plug. Perhaps a new extension too as it's so old, it pretty much falls out with gravity. LOL So new, tight tools are a must.

Take before and after pictures of the RPMs so that you can compare RPMs at idle. Let me know how it turns out.

@@protipsplus Good tip. May I ask, though, what does that show you (us?)? Would it be safe to assume that we'd expect for the RPMs to be a bit higher after new plugs installed? Meaning, that the old plugs were just no longer efficient? Am I close on that?

Just the opposite. Assuming all else is working, lower RPMs at idle indicate higher plug spark/efficiency. Similar engines with lower RPMs at idle use less fuel. This is why automakers have started making vehicles that shut off at signal lights. I hope this helps.

Nice You mee You. I would like a video of changing the thermostat of the CRV

You should assume they need to be gapped. You can pick up a coin shaped gapping tool at Autozone for a few bucks. They can also show you how to use it.

I don't use antiseize on spark plug threads, but many professional mechanics do. Feel free to torque the plugs based on your research.

I live in a low humidity climate so I don't use antiseize.

​@@protipsplusas long as you torque to spec anti seize is not needed

This is the kind of nit picky comment I hate to see. Your video was informative and thorough. Liked and subscribed, thank you sir.

Unless you do a lot of city driving, I see no need to change spark plugs until ~100K and coil~ 150K. The 2016 CRV can be noisy at idle. This is a commonly reported compliant. I find that my CRV makes a little more noise at idle when the oil level is low. I've never had an issue with inspecting or replacing coils for Honda vehicles.

@@protipsplus Oh now that's interesting. LOL I've got approx. 68,500 (ish) miles on it. About 40.5k miles are highway driving. However, NOW, it's mostly city driving and only now and then on the highway. Retirement will do that to a person. LOL Like I said, it runs perfectly, really, only that it now idles a bit rough. Not too much, but noticeable now. I figured that there was a "known issue" with this model at idle, because the very first thing they did when I picked it up was to have a guy adjust the idle speed. LOL Other than that, it hasn't been an issue. So maybe I don't have to rush into this so fast. But knowing me, I just may do at least the plugs before winter. But if just removing the ignition coils to get to the plugs, isn't a known issue to just cause problems, then I'll probably just replace the plugs and that's it. I really can't complain about this vehicle. It's been amazing and the only issues were the right control arm had to be replaced (that's the bigger V shaped piece). The only other issue was that the calipers appeared to get stuck as the wheels would get boiling hot. I just did a brake job myself, changed the pads, rotors and did a maintenance on the calipers (pins) thingy. LOL

The knock sensor on a 2016 Honda CR-V is located on the back of the engine block, just to the right of the coolant thermostat housing. However, you'll need to remove the splash shield to access it. Great question!

It varies depending on the plug used. See Parts Geek link. Great question www.partsgeek.com/catalog/2016/honda/crv/engine_electrical/spark_plug.html